{Chrysler 300} Re: 1961 Wide Fin Alternator single field replacing a two
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{Chrysler 300} Re: 1961 Wide Fin Alternator single field replacing a two field squareback alternator?



hi Carl , basically you cannot use new regulator on old alternator .

Rather  than specific wires , here is an understanding how it works :

old one you put + 12 v ign directly into regulator , points vibrate to vary the OUT + volts to the field  ( +  F ) terminal at alternator,  it is at whoever value it needs such that ignition wire feeding the old regulator ( and whole car) is held at 13.8 or so . Other end of the old alternator field is grounded inside old  alternator . So one wire with varying +V  on it . 

New one , all they had then to go solid state  was NPN power transistor , the emitter has to be grounded (-) as base voltage has to be higher + than emitter to turn it on . If wired  like old one 12 v through regulator you would need 15 v , ( 14 * .7 “on “ voltage ) to fully  do that at 14 V out You don’t  have it .

So what they Did is put constant  12 v into field all the time ( blue wire to ign * and to one F terminal ) then control the ground  end ( green) of field by going through transistor to ground inside silver regulator so two brushes two F .  Called “low side switch”
No way to use old alternator with that regulator design . ( aftermarket junk tries to , don’t go there) 

Other blue wire at a mopar silver regulator goes to 12 ignition blue too , that powers the  regulator and tells it what the ign voits  are  .
Guy did the right thing big step up —much better setup .

The mopar electronic ignition in instructions says not compatible with old setup ( without special 1 wire retrofit regulator ) as vibrating points can cause interference to spark pickup and volt surges (?moderately swinging ammeter is normal as regulator points open   and  close , flickering headlights too ( ok) although  points will burn a bit , that is indication of end of  life , swings get large . Maybe 50 k miles . you can file or clean ( must remove bumps) to get it ok — Don’t adjust or lose factory setting of lock screw .

So ,on  your guy , Carl, — he did a good job , leave that part alone ? 

What difference does shape of  alternator really make in our world? New regulator far better won’t die or go crazy , steady ammeter , better alternator output too , especially at idle  . 
 But if keeping the old , keep mechanical regulator too , use one wire from F to regulator  , hot side of old regulator goes to ign hot at ballast ( Don’t  get wrong end of ballast that goes to coil ) .regularity HAS to be right way around or you instantly blow it up. Grounding field on one wire ( “ to test”) by guy who does not know what he is doing instantly blows it up too . 

Standard auto parts still selling good mechanical one at Rockauto , black cover etc i bought 4-5 of them before gone  , good price too.

From above , note you  can easily use new 2 wire alternator with one wire regulator   just ground the other brush  F  . Makes it a one wire . 

PS as you know , you absolutely need vacuum advance , otherwise 6 mpg , and has to be right vacuum advance can for ram motor — . the old J distributor will work BETTER in terms of spark ( no 1 volt solid state  internal drop happens with points ) and it has the right fairly critical advance curve for J . 

Of course , for a 300 lover , checking points  is a huge job  on a B block every 15 k miles or so ( laugh) .

Use dwell meter off ebay  , less than 2 minutes ,don’t  even lift cap!  vs two days trying  to figure out intermittent electronic junk ,,wiring and added  failure modes   . And I am an EE 
Why Grandma likes the orange box..  or pertronix , great in a Slant six .
Adds reliability , loses performance somewhat in terms of output over dual
points . 
We went 140 mph on dual
points , Granatelli  190 . 
john 


Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 6, 2023, at 6:25 PM, Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:



John and John,

 

I bought a G last summer and looking at the car tonight I see that the prior owner has installed a new, updated wiring harness and a square back 1970’s style 2 field alternator, along with a 1970’s style Mopar electronic voltage regulator mounted on the core support (along with a Mopar electronic ignition module), original regulator is gone!  John Begian is getting me the correct ’61 wide fin alternator, which would be a single field.  John G or John B  – how can I connect the single field ’61 alternator into this wring harness?   Do I  just connect the green field wire but leave the other field wire disconnected??? But will that work with the 1970’s style electronic regulator??

 

The prior owner is a nice fella but he was trying to “upgrade” this G to more modern components.  The original distributor is gone and in its place is a 1980’s vintage Mopar Performance mechanical tach drive electronic distributor (no vacuum advance) with the external Mopar ignition box mounted on the core support.  I’m OK with electronic ignition – I have it on all my cars.  I just don’t know  how to connect the correct ’61 alternator with the Mopar electronic regulator and a two field wire harness.

 

Carl

 

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