Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Evans Coolant

On Tue, Sep 9, 2025, 5:01 AM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I agree with Carl ; ~~~ many “ recommendations “
from auto dealers , oil companies and “ waterless coolant companies” are driven by making a ( big ) buck , ~~ the elaborate marketing claims of why this happens and is good for you are often BS

When mobil 1 first came out ( equal length hydrocarbon chains in the oil- real science )it was from efforts to develop better air craft turbine oil . Real .Not BS
So I read a test they did on a 350 chev , full scientific support , there was no meaningful degradation in the oil till 18000 miles , and then it was additives fading out . super oil base remained perfect as super oil .At one time motor oil had NO additives and cars still worked ok

While this must be 20~ 25 years ago? at that time i started using abd changing mobil 1 every 10 k miles . Two 4,0 jeep ( amc motor) went over 300 k miles , when I say zero oil added in 10k you wont believe me but true. Even at 300 k .
Everyone i knew in car world said you are nuts , mopar recommended 1500 or 2 k oil changes in our cars . 5 x the need with good oil . Step back and think about it . Follow the $!
Oil co and dealers profited , x 100 million cars .
Today Japanese cars recommend 10 k . The engine internals have not changed in any significant way They seal the transmission mow, no dipstick even , “ Camry good for life of car” by 2013 ….

So in anti freeze , i found out over the road diesel trucks going 600k~800k between rebuilds do NOT change out green antifreeze, the ethylene glycol is still intact chemically why are we changing it ? beyond “ recommendations” from those who profit, or “ honest, I have something better “ Fish carburetor stuff to me. There never was a problem , if there is — it is not the antifreeze
What does happen is additives fade that are in it to lube water pump seals ( a little better) and anticorrosives especially for mixed aluminum / iron systems .
So on a schedule they just replace the additives ,?not throw away 20(?) gallons of perfectly good ethylene glycol . I do not see the additives widely promoted in the auto world but new antifreeze every two years is .Follow the $

Somewhat related , the second of those jreeps had factory HOAT antifreeze ( the orange stuff) along with dire warnings to use only HOAT , especially not mix them . I followed that , but from 180 k on , started to have cooling issues which got worse . Replaced stock ( aluminum ) radiator once , marginally better ~~ for a while . Recently replaced radiator again this time with aftermarket 4 row , ( stock was one row)! a joke . But inside was a white residue powder, even in hoses . . Not good — whatever it is . And I am not an expert , all I know is HOAT costs more and leaves white powder and the car overheated . All I need to know . But still in it out of caution . BS bell ringing, experts are not — vs 80 years of glycol . Why all this? Is a good question . $ again ~~

By the way 4 row took two weeks of body mods ( 02 grand cherokee) lower tank hit frame horns ( had to dent outward with power hammer ) and also top of tank hit hood underside( not worth it )

I do make mistakes ,own this . 3 row also needs mods , but minor . Can overdo stuff , 4 row is too thick , had to tip it , top back half inch even to get hood latch in , unbolt the steering box to slide it down on and on .— In and out a few times with mucho hassle , 1/8” hits everywhere .

Stock was ok for 180 k miles , should have just thrown out HOAT for glycol ?

Keep it simple…
jg

PS
after 65 years in cars, overheat is either ( mostly) radiator or airflow ( shroud, fan clutch , add electric fan junk now) but usually radiator .
residue on tubes inside slows heat transfer . So additives like diesel ,? before the issue seem reasonable
But if overheating in older car its the radiator , unhappy news
Not mysterious rust in block etc , any more than rusty frying pan slows boiling. Problem is getting rid of heat in the coolant

On Sep 8, 2025, at 9:23 PM, Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks, Dyke, for suggesting review of the No-Rosion web page. Very interesting products and material to read. I have not used Evans and never will. I understand that Bob J wants feedback from those who have used it, but I don't quite get why anyone would (except in rare circumstances as described in the review, which is here:  No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers )

Our cars used good ol' green silicate ethylene glycol. I have tried long life and have gone back to green. The no-rosion site explains why use of green in cars that used it for decades is important - again, very interesting reading:
No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers

Coolant flushes are among the easier tasks on our cars (can use Prestone kit via the heater hoses). So what if it has to be done every two years? Better for the cars anyway, and straight green coolant is under $10/gal and available at the nearest farm store (where I live anyway). Just capture the old antifreeze and take it to the nearest recycle center for free. I do understand, that if you can't work on your own cars due to limitations, that it would be a pain to take it somewhere every two years. And yes, highly toxic material that you must keep away from animals and little children. But green coolant works fine, as it always has.

Carl B.

------ Original Message ------

From "Dyke Ridgley" <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx>

To "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date 9/8/2025 6:37:13 PM

Subject {Chrysler 300} Re: Evans Coolant

Bob:

I would recommend you go to the No-Rosion website and read about waterless coolant in their question and answers section. If you cannot find the information, let me know and I will post the article from their Newsletter. The owner of the company writes the articles and is a graduate chemical engineer. He and his products are the real deal. There are a lot of serious negatives related to Waterless coolants and you should be very informed before you go down that road.

Dyke Ridgley

On Monday, September 8, 2025 at 6:24:27 PM UTC-5 rpjasin wrote:
All,

I’m giving serious thought to changing over to Evans coolant in my G. I’ve read a lot about it and really like that it is a permanent solution to avoid coolant changes, eliminate cooling system corrosion, and reducing system pressure due to its high boiling point of 375 degrees F. I am aware that the conversion requires removal of all the old coolant and that the system has to be purged with a product made for doing that. I’m also aware that Evans is about $50/gallon so the conversion would come close to $300 altogether. Does anyone here have any experience with Evans coolant? I’d like to hear from those that have actually used it, and if you were happy with it or not. If not, what problems did you have?

300ly,
Bob J
Danville, CA

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