Good point about using your cars but it can be taken to the extreme. Watched a video of an Australian guy who keeps all his cars registered and uses them all - which is great. What I can’t relate to is he has an air-conditioned shed full of them, like a kid in a candy store! Not going to get value for money out of the registration charges that way. But he obviously has enough money to not worry about that. Check it out if you want to see some Aussie cars from the 60’s and 70’s. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLiOLh6zfqY Cheers Henry From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Nowosacki
Sent: Wednesday, 17 September 2025 3:39 AM
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Inline Electric Fuel pump I agree with Mr. Plotkins assessment. Many 'issues' with our older cars stem from the amount of time they sit unused. My earliest experiences with 'old' cars (20-25+ years old) was in my youth when they weren't really coveted classics or appreciating collectables, but just cool cars that were much more interesting than any of the newer models, and cheaper to buy/drive, too. Driving late 50's and early 60's cars well into the 1980's and 1990's as everyday drivers made them more reliable (and actually better maintained) than sitting for multiple days or even weeks at a time (not to mention months at a time for those in colder climates). A car that is used regularly doesn't have a sticky choke or gunky gas bowls, or brakes that pull to one side or the other, flat spotted tires or mechanical voltage regulators that stick, speedometers that make crazy noises and fluctuate all over the place, etc. etc. Keeping those fluids and lubricants moving around on a frequent basis prevents a lot of things from going wrong, and also results in fresh(er) gasoline in the tank and carbs, too, for easier start ups. It is, sadly, getting easier to neglect certain aspects of car care as the use becomes less frequent. Days turn into weeks, weeks turn into months, and suddenly just going out to the garage to take the car to a show/cruise or just a ride on a nice day becomes closer to the procedure we all had to go through when we first acquired a long-sitting reclamation project back in the old days. Maybe not quite an episode of Roadworthy Rescues with Derick the crazy car guy, but you know what I mean. Personally, I also find that putting on more miles requires more frequent maintenance such as oil changes, grease jobs, brake adjustments, tune ups, which also keeps me better acquainted with my tools so I don't forget the basics. (Like the time I did a tune up on the 440 in the Hurst and the 392 in the 57C on the same day and messed up the spark plug wiring/firing order because I forgot about the rotation of the rotor being opposite on the two cars!) It's easier, less hassle, and ultimately more fun (weather and traffic conditions permitting) to give our cars more exercise, not less (similar to our aging bodies). So nice to hear the car engine fire right up on fast idle, then kick down the appropriate amount with a tap of the pedal, and have the transmission engage immediately upon selecting a gear than cranking away- hoping the engine catches before the battery runs down, and then waiting and hoping for eventual feel of the transmission going into gear without stalling the engine. A body in motion tends to want to stay in motion, while a body at rest wants to stay at rest. YMMV. On my Desoto's I have been using the pass through pumps I got from Mac's ford parts. They have been fine for years although they are 6V. The drain back on the 300K is an issue in The City garage as the car sits nose high here. When I am using it every day not too much to start it. If it sits for a few days I have to crank on it for a bit. At some point I will add a boost pump. I do know someone with a 1950's Cad that did something interesting. He had the fuel like come out of the tank and go into a "Y". One side had a backflow check valve. The other side had a Carter rotary pump. The car also had a return line at the carb with a small hole in a brazed "T" fitting to bleed some fuel back all the time. This guy would use it as a boost pump on a switch. But, if the mechanical pump failed, he can turn it on and run with it. A little work, yes, but not a bad idea...
When you remove these pumps from the car, can you make them run with 12 volts on the wires? Pending weigh-in from Don V & John G I would imagine any debris sucked up by the pump would have fouled the carbs. If you know your source of 12 volts to the pump and the switch are OK, I would ask Auto Zone for a Facet cube pump, many of us use it without a problem. Another thing...after I watched one of Bob Merritt's videos in which he is seen priming carbs through bowl vents with a squeeze bottle I stopped using the pump. This works much better, car starts instantly. Use 2 cycle fuel from the auto parts store. This way you are under your hood, can check oil and see anything that should be seen. My F will start on one revolution of the starter as long as it was running within the last 7 days. Drive your cars! Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2025 11:23am
To: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Inline Electric Fuel pump
Fuel Pump is Auto Zone part number is A8016EP “Spectra Premium fuel pump” made by TRUGRADE FUEL SYSTEMS. Just Google A8016EP and a picture appears. When working, a distinct sound can be heard. Now there is no sound. If the pump will not work (perhaps due to being clogged), it seems like the engine would not start due to lack of gas? Perhaps the motor is just burned out and it is not clogged? Again, the engine eventually starts (using the engine mechanical pump after some cranking) and the car runs fine. Mark- What pump are you using? Facet? What is the failure mode, blowing fuses? Cannot hear it run?, Will not pump? There is a Facet cube pump on my F mounted ahead of the tank. It needs to run a few minutes to fill the bowls and it is quite audible. There is no filter behind the pump. Knowing what "failure" means might help us. Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2025 11:03am
To: "'Chrysler list server'" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Inline Electric Fuel pump
Hello All, I have gone through 2 electric fuel pumps in about 12 years, the last one under life-time warranty at Auto Zone. They replaced it at No-Charge pending return of the old one. A few questions. - A local mechanic gave his opinion that the last pump may have failed because I did not put a fuel filter in between the gas tank and the pump.
- The 300 runs strong with the failed primer pump, so my question is, “Could the pump be clogged and not working while the 300 starts up (just using mechanical pump from engine) and runs fine?”
- It is mounted above the rear axle, just after the gas tank. It has a separate switch that is for prime only and the pump does not run other than for starting the engine.
I can replace the pump to include an inline filter, but I don’t like to put extra splices in the rubber fuel line (under the car) if the cause for the pump to fail is not due to the lack of a fuel filter. Thanks in advance for your comments. Regards, Mark Lindahl ’63 300 Conv. PS- Auto Zone pump part number is A8016EP “Spectra Premium fuel pump” made by TRUGRADE FUEL SYSTEMS. --
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