Mobil One makes “Extended Performance” oil filters. One type is stated to protect up to 7 years or 20,000 miles. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2025 10:27 AM
To: 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: 'chrysler 300 club' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} New Valvoline Product Hi John, I have heard that it is fine to drive 10,000 miles on full-synthetic oil, but one guy told me that the oil filter will not hold up for 10,000 miles. Any comments are welcome! Thanks, Mark Lindahl Agree with you too . Understand. From another perspective it is just flat out better oil, more slippery less friction , cheap bucks against wiping a bearing or cam , in a valuable car , also imho it also helps marginal rings seal a lot better , fast — you burn less oil , not instantly , but rings get better and better . Cleans it out , does not form carbon in the ring lands (the high temp stability) I have had 5-6 cars over the years was considering $ rebuild over marginal oil burn , ( 500 a quart) fouled plugs once in a while , lethargic , tired feel to motor etc Changed to mobil 1 drove 80 on purpose 200 mile trip stuff got better fast . Ended up ~?1000 mi a quart 5 x, I’m personally sold . Why I often say dont rebuild . Jerry Kocur went 300-400 k twice in a 300 K . B Blocks do NOT need rebuilds at 70 k . His B block was the same as yours . They just need smart people. Machine shops can hurt it too , bring new problems . Been there , I bet many club members have too . —- for me cheap rebuilds , no rebore have worked fine too . First time at 17 years old , 318 , rolled it around on sheet in grass , new rings , used reground crank (20$) bearings and gaskets . 57 plymouth stick got free — bad rod journal 1960 . It went 300k , Colorado , Mexico etc with a hippie friend Also , a lot of oil filters are junk now , major brands . I saw a test they sawed them all open . Some are a roll of toilet paper inside . Worst one was one of the big names. Best one is real mopar , but $ . The reason is , they have a lot of fat in that fire with warrantee. Makes sense I use NAPA gold , a lot better thing for a little more $ . Other brands (all of them ) you never know for sure if fake junk , or real junk — an idiot dropped 1600 gallons of heating oil , emptied truck, (bottom of the truck ) into my big 2000 gallon tank , full of black crud — clogged the oil burner filter one week later ( I have vacuum gauge on suction , tank side of 2 line pump , put on after fighting BS stories from oil guys about “you need a new burner” . Found out car filters fit burner screw , went to local NAPA, they had very tall filters ( Diesel truck ?) , he had cutaway of filters ( WOW ) same deal as the saw open. It took 4 Gold tall filters about 3 weeks each but then change went back to two years , vacuum stayed ok . Impressed me , Gold element cleaned up 2000 gallons of oil, ( let alone 5 quarts) , vacuum did not rise till almost full of crud ( = good oil flow no restriction) Gold is “ Real” not bs Burner 35 years old still runs fine , Gold filter on it (Beckett ) = Ignore “expert “ guys after your wallet ymmv , just info from my own reality .. John- I have no dispute whatsoever with what you wrote. Mobil One is in my view too expensive to use in a low speed occasionally driven hobby car whose oil is changed every other year with perhaps 1,200 elapsed miles, and which survived intact for 65 + years using comparatively poor oil. When I drain most of my sumps the stuff still has its dye in it. I think your point is well made in connection with modern, high revving higher operating temperature engines. However given the way I presume most of us use our antique automobiles the risk is not high RPM, high loads and high temperatures. Instead its condensation and fuel contamination along with blowby. Long drives help with this, but I doubt Mobil One or Rotella will. The best oils combined with water, unburned fuel and combustion byproducts are no better than cheaper ones ... in my uneducated opinion based apparently on luck. Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2025 11:14am
To: "James Daniel" <jd1968ci@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "HANK HALLOWELL" <gymrat.hank@xxxxxxxxx>, "John Nowosacki" <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx>, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike Hall" <b5hellcatsrt@xxxxxxxxx>, "Club International Chrysler" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} New Valvoline Product
there are only a few refineries in the world making synthetic engine oil , Mobil 1 invented it , for airplane gas turbines , very severe duty All the hydrocarbon chains are about same length - a major Chem E breakthrough . It is not BS . so buy Mobil 1 . Natural oil chains vary all over the place . Not in the game at all in 2025 Adding purple dye and a fancy label and pitchman , race sponsor etc just made to draw you in . Baseless opinions form , if good its because it is Mobil1 in new bottle Show me the refinery wuth Valvoline sign . Not picking on them Rotella or Mobil 1 are best you can do , huge R and D behind them 20 guys in garages making purple red or green dye and fancy labels are not “ Making oil” great or otherwise . They are reselling When in doubt follow the $ , how much and what is different .. in reality API is a GREAT point , means it is real not hype Danny and Hank, Brad Penn is apparently now Penn Grade. Do you use conventional, Synthetic blend, or full Synthetic? What is your opinion of Driven XP4 (Joe Gibbs Racing) conventional oil? I use Brad Penn and ZR-1 when I’m outta Brad Penn. I’ve had the same “heated” discussion with Vette guys (I have a “C2”) - that you mention. Most important tho’ is your advice on running them Vs start/stop. I try to drive everything every 4-6 weeks and I never ever drive them less than it takes to get the engine up to operating temperature and speed (50+) I have a circuit I do - and then it’s on to the next car. Very practical, common sense advice that should serve any engine well. I understand from many pointy headed folks in the Corvette world that zinc, while absolutely critical at first start/camshaft break in is less so for used engines with broken-in camshaft and lifters. These fellas say use Rotella 15-40 in any vintage run-in Corvette engine and advise against the oils without the API Certification Mark. Most boutique oils don't have the API certification. For the Corvette guys using it is tantamount to drinking unpasteurized milk. I use Brad Penn anyway, have for 20 years. Its consistent with what my engine builder told me. Use a quality oil, pick a viscosity, keep it clean and stick with it. The most important thing for oil in occasionally used hobby cars is to keep good quality oil clean. Keep the choke properly adjusted. Don't allow it to run eye-wateringly pig rich. Don't start the engine at all, unless you intend to drive the car 20 or more miles, enough to get oil and coolant temperatures close and boil the water and fuel from the oil, that is where sludge comes from. Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Hall" <b5hellcatsrt@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2025 10:22am
To: "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} New Valvoline Product
Change the oil and filter. Use 1 Qt marvel mystery in place of 1 new qt you are putting back in. Drive the vehicle a few hundred miles, and do another oil and filter change. Stuff is Amazing!! On Monday, October 20, 2025 at 9:57:00 AM UTC-4 dave mason wrote: Hi Kurt, I’ve been using VR-1 for some time, but have switched. Now I use Driven brand hot rod oil, which is also high zinc, but is supposed to have better longevity. Sometimes you see VR-1 on sale at Napa. If you are trying to run oil for a short time then change it, VR-1 is cheaper on sale and should be just fine… D&K Thanks for the feedback and recommendations everyone!
On Saturday, October 18, 2025 at 7:49:05 PM UTC-5 jkg wrote: i had a 59 rambler given to me free , 100 k, in college , I was broke oil filter was optional on 59 rambler ( cross country wagon) this one did not have one (!) Also experimental aluminum block , caused other issues , anti freeze / clogged radiator, pia Guy had been putting used oil from friend’s gas station in it ,100 mikes a quart . Drove it home decided oil change might help , removed plug nothing came out (!) Turned out 1.5 “ solid sludge in oilpan was blocking the drain Oil pressure ok . (!) anyway put big screwdriver through sludge black goo came out . On my own decided flush w kerosene , not driven , just idle , Did that three times used coat hanger wire bent to L to kind of stir things up . put in good oil , drove it at 80 , maybe 500 miles ran better and better . Changed again still black , But ended up 3 years with it maybe 50 k more miles , stopped burning oil too . (1 per thousand) Drove sadly into junk yard running great , 150 k, body rusted out . The front seat turned into a bed . Awwright Went on honeymoon in it ! I would not worry about clogging screen , and modern oil filter will grab any small stuff . Do it , change filter and oil 2-3 x .Maybe 500-1000 miles apart Drive it hard and fast , nothing to lose Gunk is really a very fine particulate deposit , wont clog anything just moves to oil filter ?? remember , seeing gunk deposit in valve covers is not about what is inside engine , like bearings. Looks bad , might not be causing any problems at all Old machines get dirty ; oil pressure is the thing to watch
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