Re: Front End Alignment

[Schuyler Wrobel <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

here's some more stuff on wheel alignment.

for radial tires  the specs are normally quite close to 0 camber and  
0 caster (aka a neutral alignment. ) to check take a small plum bob  
or make one with a heavy washer and a piece of string. With the  
wheels straight ahead  hang the string and bob over the fender so the  
string passes through the centre of the wheel. When it stops swinging  
measure the distance from the string to the top side of the  wheel  
rim and then from the string to the bottom side of the wheel rim. In  
real life the top measurement should be just slightly shorter than  
the bottom measurement . About 1/8 of an inch which gives the car  
just a slight amount of Posotive camber and helps put a bit more load  
on the inner wheel bearing which is larger on our cars. Anything from  
that to both exactly the same would be "in specs" so to speak.
Next with the wheels still straight ahead hold the string to the bolt  
of the upper ball joint . the washer or bob should be almost centered  
over the bolt for the bottom ball joint. That would be 0 degrees. If  
it is forward it would be neg caster and if it is behind it would be  
positive caster.

 rule of thumb

When i am standing facing the front of my car anything coming towards  
me (from front to back or from the side)  is negative (Caster Camber)  
anything going away from me is postive (Caster . camber  ) It makes  
sense of you think about it . "if i am standing in front of a car  
anything coming towards me is negative. " hard to forget.

And now a short note for those who have already said i think it would  
be a lot better getting it lined up on a modern computer ized  
alignment machine. (which never has your 62 to 65 alignment specs  
init anyway and may have been dropped five times that week alone and  
could be seriously out of calibration from ther drops and abuse) let  
me assure you that i can absolutley guarantee that the bob weight is  
hanging exactly at 0 degrees.  No ifs, ands or buts about it.
Other than that there is Radial tire pull. a very v common problem  
and the previous recommendations a bout swapping the tire side to  
side is standard check for this. Also rear axle steer if the springs  
are severly arched is possible as the spring gets longer as it is  
compressed flatter which can move the position of the rear axle.  
other than that there os  no magic no phantom stuff. assuming the  
front end is in good condition . I have seen a siezed shocjk hold a  
car out of alignement but that is rare.
Measure also to see the wheelbase is the same both side of the car.  
Short side always pulls. infact the condition is known as short side  
pull and was used by some aligmnment guy including me to offset for  
the tendancy of the crown of the road to pull the car slighty toward  
the ditch as you drove.  By puttng a 1/2 degree + caster in the  
drivers side that made that side just a wee bit shorter and would  
hold the car straight even on a crown road.
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
 <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email me  
with your needs -
 <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>



On Aug 5, 2009, at 8:03 AM, Ollie wrote:

> Its hard to find a front end man that knows what he is doing on our  
> cars. After much searching I was lucky to find one. Older fellar  
> like us. You need to work everything in tandom. Height adj and  
> camber and castor adj. He has a old front end machine and does it  
> all by hand measurements not computer.
> Ollie
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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