Re: headless 383

[Tom Watters <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

If it were me, I'd drain the block (Water/Oil), so I could turn the 
cylindars to a down-hill slope.  Make sure you secure the lifters in 
place Or pull so they dont fall out and get out of order. I have a 
drilled 2x4 that I use to put lifters in to keep them in order.   

Get a rag with clean oil on it and rub the surface rust off the cylindar 
walls. 

Then, use some lectromotive or brake parts cleaner to wash the debris 
out of each cylindar and from between the piston and cylindar wall to 
the ring.  Probably where most of the debris has settled.  A mostly 
empty can with lower pressure if you have it.

Then turn it back up-right with leveled out pistons, put about a 
tablespoon or so of motor oil in each cylindar to re-lube the rings, 
re-install the lifters/head etc.  refill all your fluids and re-install 
the block.

Just my '02.

--Tom


Butch Edison wrote:
> Don't use any compressed air to clean out debris that accumulates in the cylinders. You could drive some small particulate into the rings. Instead, put rope putty around the edges of the pistons inside the cylinders, vacuum out the debris, then pull out the putty. You probably already know this. /Butch/Ferndale, WA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gerry peters [mailto:gpeters35@xxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 4:13 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: headless 383
>
>
> some throw away sponges (the 3 for a dollar kind )
> tear them up to block holes
> put head bolts in
> scrap and sand surface
> vacuum everything in the end with old wet vac
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gary H." <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 5:56 PM
> Subject: headless 383
>
>
>   
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Anyone have hints on how to get this block ready to put a 383 head back 
> > on? Seems like a lot of crud to clean up there that will fall into the 
> > piston holes.
> >
> > Background: I pulled the head a couple years ago to fix a broken exhaust 
> > stud. Time got away, too many home and car projects, a hurricane, natural 
> > procrastination etc. It is overdue to get the car running again. See 
> > pictures here: 
> > http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/temp/383-headless-500.jpg  Click on the 
> > image for a bigger view.
> >
> > Tips appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Gary H.
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> >
> >     
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
>
>
>
>