Steve,
I will share the information I gather on the compression tolerance of
91-93
unleaded; we have the 91 unleaded swamp water in CA, you may be blessed
with
the higher octane where you live.
I am presently investigating three promising Octane Boosters that if
they
work
"as advertised" are cost effective; none of these three are commercially
available on the typical mass-merchandiser/auto parts shelves.
Gary Pavlovich
----- Original Message -----
From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: 273 Rebuild status and how much compression we can run on
pump
gas w/10.5 mo
>
> The highest compressiopn ratio for 92 octane is something I have been
> debating on my build plans. Gary, I would like to know what you come
> up
> with..................................MO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 10:14 PM
> Subject: Re: 273 Rebuild status and how much compression we can run on
> pump gas w/10.5 mo
>
>
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> With 10.5 pistons you will raise your compression considerably more
>> than
>>
>> most pump gas will handle. What fuel will you be using and will you
>> be
>> adding an octane booster or a bit of "race" fuel?
>>
>> I have been researching the correct octane level for 10 to 10.5 to 1
>> true
>> compression motors and would appreciate any research/experiential
>> input
>> from our list members.
>>
>> Gary Pavlovich
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tom Watters" <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 7:54 PM
>> Subject: Re: 273 Rebuild status
>>
>>
>>> Steve,
>>>
>>> Good Point. The New pistons will require that, even with all the
>>> manual
>>>
>>> checks Egge does, there's still the need when adding pistons and pins
>>> that something might be askew. Dont want to flub up the forged
>>> crank.
>>>
>>> Will have to add it to the list. Appreciate it.
>>>
>>> --Tom
>>>
>>> Steven Charette wrote:
>>>> Tom,
>>>> You got money tucked away to rebalance the rotating assembly?
>>>>
>>>> SC
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Tom Watters [mailto:tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Thursday,
>>>> January 21, 2010 10:14 PM
>>>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>>>> Subject: 273 Rebuild status
>>>>
>>>> Well, it looks like I'll be rebuilding the 273 rather than just a
>>>> refresh
>>>> (Rings & beargings). Needs boring, which means pistons and the
>>>> like.
>>>>
>>>> After bumping around on the phone, I got some good recommendations
>>>> of
>>>> friend
>>>> of the the local car club president for a machine shop. It seems to
>>>> be
>>>> on
>>>> the high end of average, but I can tell he does know his stuff.
>>>> When I
>>>> talked to Nellis Machine or Las Vegas Crank and Machine, they didnt
>>>> leave me
>>>> with a comfortable feeling about taking in my original block to
>>>> them.
>>>> I
>>>> told HBR Competition Engies I will be dropping off the Block, Heads,
>>>> Crank
>>>> and Pistons tomorrow afternoon. Total for Bore (175-200)/Crank Turn
>>>> (95)/Cam Bearing install
>>>> (75)/re-condition rods (25-35) is at a 500-600, depending.
>>>>
>>>> This will cause me to buy pistons. Only one company makes (egge) the
>>>> 10.5:1s, Those will run about $300
>>>>
>>>> Cam/Lifters from Racer Brown is now on Order $235+Tax. Ordered #
>>>> ST-1 -
>>>> Mechanical Cam. Its a little lumpier than the stock HiPo Cam (450
>>>> lift
>>>> instead of 425), but not as big as the D-Dart race cam (495 lift).
>>>> It
>>>> should give me what I want.
>>>>
>>>> So barring a ton of head work, the rest of the parts I'm looking at
>>>> will be
>>>> about $300 (Timing Chain, Teardown set, Freeze Plugs, Bearings,
>>>> Rings,
>>>> etc)
>>>>
>>>> Total for a full rebuild minus head work, I'm looking at $1435. if
>>>> I
>>>> need
>>>> head work, Usually about another $200-$500
>>>>
>>>> If He were assembling, it'd be another 1000 or so.
>>>>
>>>> Now to get the taxes submitted so I have the funds to pay for it
>>>> with
>>>> my
>>>> return. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> Regards and Happy Moparing.
>>>> --Tom
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----
>>>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
>>>> person --
>>>> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
>>>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
>>>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
>>>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
>>>> the
>>>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ----
>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
>> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
>> the
>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>>
>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>
>
>
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