Re: crankshaft key?

[65 <65Val@xxxxxxxxx>]

Gary...have you tried heating up the new crank gear? The heat will expand it 
slightly, allowing you to get it installed. Once seated, it will shrink 
tight as it cools.

I've also installed crank gears with a large, extended socket, running the 
big attaching bolt through the center of the socket, and turning til the 
gear seats.

Just my $0.02...


Darwin/Victoria,BC Canada
'65 Cdn. Valiant Custom 100'vert...**SOLD**
'67 Dart GT 'vert - 273/904
http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/65val/



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary H." <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: crankshaft key?



Thanks to all who replied. I'll answer Dave's questions as an update.

I put the old crank gear mostly back on, along with the old cam gear, just 
so I could align the dots on the gears. I had no problem getting the old 
chain off as it was stretched enough to let the engine jump time.

I used a cheap puller but could not get the crank gear off, the 
fully-stressed puller kept popping off. I then used 2 big pry bars one on 
each side of the gear and "rocked" each pry bar and with a lot of force and 
"walked" the gear off. It's real tight!
I can get the old gear back on only by using a small hammer and strongly 
tapping on the right and left alternatively.

I did not try the new gear on the parts motor but the old gear slides right 
on that one by hand. The key is in the crank on the parts motor.

I tried putting the old crank gear on backwards and the hangup seems to be 
in the same place.

Yeah, the old key is still in there. It's hard to tell by eye if the key is 
up slightly toward the engine or wider there. It does not take much to hang 
this part up with clearance issues. I have soaked the key with solvents. 
Sounds like it is time for brute force. Heh Heh. I will use the suggestions 
sent so far to get the key out. Once it is out, I will probably see if I can 
get the key out of the parts motor and use that one in the running motor.

Thanks,
Gary H.


-----Original Message-----

> You say you had a hard time getting the old gear off originally. I see in 
> your pic the cam gear is (back on?) in place. Even though it was difficult, 
> were you able to remove both gears and chain as an assembly?
> Did you need/use a puller or pry bars? (I’m only trying to get a “feel” for 
> just “how tight” it was.)
> Secondly, you’re able to easily slide the old and new gears onto your spare 
> motors’ crank, is that with or without a key in the crank keyway? Test 
> fitting first without the key is a good idea. This gives opportunity to get 
> other trouble spots out of the way, and then if troubles arise “with” the 
> key, you know what to work on. Also, try test fitting the gear to the shaft 
> backwards. If it stops at the same place, the problem is likely the 
> shaft/key or if it stops somewhere differently the problem is likely the 
> gear and not the shaft/key.
> Next I’m wondering, at what position is the stuck key “in”? Does the top 
> flat look to be exactly parallel to the crank or maybe slightly higher at 
> the back?
> Yet another thing to look at are the square (inside/outside) corners at the 
> top of the key and where the key enters the shaft keyway, and the 
> inside/outside corners of the keyway in the gear. New parts are especially 
> notorious for having extremely sharp corners; it doesn’t hurt to just 
> knock-off that sharpness.
> Ok, after all that, we still DID NOT get the old key out, did we? Had you 
> tried letting it soak with penetrating oil? Lastly, when all else fails, it’s 
> time to take the kid gloves off and get down-rite BRUTAL!  After all, it is 
> not welded in there, so it “will” come out. Get that hammer and chisel and 
> start swinging, just try to keep that chisel point under the key and 
> pointed up and away from the shaft though a few scratches minor nicks can 
> be filled smooth during the gear test fit process.
> GOOD LUCK.
>
> Dave B


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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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