Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
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Re: Heater Blower Resistor?



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Derric- Hope you got my big long-winded note on vacuum system and heater control valve, how did you make out? Did you get the heater working?

From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 13:55:06 -0400

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Hi,

Ok, the verdict.

BLower motor checked out ok.
I removed the blower switch and found the grounding of the 12V source (center terminal)
I took Daves guidance and jumpered the actual 12v source coming to the switch and that powered the blower fine. So the switch was toast.


now for the uncharted territory.........

Out of pure determination i spread the four prongs on the back of the switch and dismantled it.
i found inside the tabs which were arching from age and wear.
i polished it all with emery cloth (and a shot or two of electromotive) reassembled and was in business. blower works great!
even have all three positions (talk about modern conveniences!)


Now its on to find which vaccum line is leaking because heat , cool and defrost all work just that when you actuate the control switch you have to rotate the vacuum pots by hand.
any tips from the forum on where to start?
i know it could be many places , maybe even the switch itself?


thanks again.


On May 15, 2005, at 9:25 AM, Dave Krugler wrote:


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You can probably tell whether or not the motor is bound up by simply removing the 6" dia inlet hose that connects the motor to the cowl vent duct and sticking a long skinny screwdriver carefully thru the fixed vanes on the motor housing and using it to spin the blower wheel. If it exhibits any hint of coasting it is probably ok. If it appears to be stiff turning it needs to come out and be looked at. To fining removing remove screw from motor ground lead at cowl bracket, remove sky-hook bracket nut, rotate top of blower assembly reaward in car then slide assembly right in car to get it loose. Disconnect positive lead bullet connecter which will become visible as you remove blower from case. The blower looks like one of Donald Campbell's jet engines out of Bluebird or something similar, definitely a novel blower assembly. Motors appear on E- bay from time to time.


From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 08:37:38 -0400

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how easy is it to get to? do i have to remove it to check for drag?

On May 14, 2005, at 10:48 PM, Gary Wilson wrote:


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Did you make sure the motor was good. If it has to much drag it will cause blown fuses.



MOPAR413 (Gary) 64 Polora 500






From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 18:18:29 -0400

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i checked continuity on this switch.
the center terminal does ground to the case.
\
the other two terminals do not show continuity to ground.

so this should be the culprit???????


On May 13, 2005, at 8:47 PM, Dave Krugler wrote:




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I suppose the blower speed switch could also be shorted to ground due to internal overheat and failure. If you have access to a volt/ ohm meter or even a test light you could check that fairly easily. There should be no continuity between any terminal on the back of the blower speed switch and ground. If you connect 1 side of a 12volt lamp to battery voltage in the car and remove the wir harness plug from back of the blower speed switch while still mounted in the instrument panel you could touch the other lead of the test light to one terminal at a time and see if the bulb lights. If it does and you aren't otherwise touching ground the switch is shorted internally to ground.




From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:48:40 -0400

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Hi Dave,




Thanks, funny thing is switch runs blower blower "slowest" on the HIGH setting (of the switch) and speeds up on low setting of the switch. if you try to go to the off position on the switch, see ya, the fuse blows.


Yet now all positions seem to blow the fuse, im wondering if the heater control switch is the actual culprit?

thanks again,




The usual thing that fail these is either high current load from a bound up or shorted blower motor or locked rotor (motor locked up by debris/bearing failure or whatever) which not only increases the current draw but does not blow any cooling air across the resistor coils. If it is possible for an overheated resistor coil to sag onto the metal case of the heater and make a circuit that could cause fuses to blow.





From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 09:18:43 -0400

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hi,

has anyone ever had one of these go bad?

i think it may be a source of blowing fuses to the heater blower as I increase the speed selector on the fan switch.



if so, does anyone have one they know is good that they would sell?

contact me offlist if you have one to sell.

thanks

Derrick
derrickb@xxxxxxx
'63 Sport Fury

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Derrick derrickb@xxxxxxx '63 Sport Fury

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!


'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.





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Derrick derrickb@xxxxxxx '63 Sport Fury

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Derrick derrickb@xxxxxxx '63 Sport Fury

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!


'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.



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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!


'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Derrick derrickb@xxxxxxx '63 Sport Fury

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!


'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.




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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


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