RE: cam positioning

["Earl H. " <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Bill,

We all do things differently, which does not mean one is wrong or right,
just a way to go about it. 
I say that because I have never broken in a cam by taking the inner springs
off, and have never 
lost a cam with dual springs on break in. The couple I did loose were big
pressure single springs.

Dave made a good suggestion, mark the lifter, take the plugs out and roll
the motor over at good 
speed to see if the lifters are in fact rotating. Pistons being at .004 on
the skirt are no big deal. I 
use .006 on race motors. I am assumptive that you checked your valve
geometry after installing the 
cam, and that you don't have anything weird going on as far a the
rocker/valve stem/push rod is 
concerned. Of course, you could have just gotten a couple of bad cams. If
the RB cam is working, 
cross your fingers and mash the gas. 

Earl


Earl,
Thanks for the reply. As far as the lifter bores being at fault, I even
bought the burnishing tool that Hughes sells to make sure the bores are the
right size. (At least that's what Hughes says they use on every motor
build). I ran that tool up and down each bore several times to be sure it's
the right size.
I've wiped out their lifters, cam etc. along with the Mopar cam and lifters.
I did find out that Hughes lifters were about a .001 oversize which may have
been the problem there. I'll admit that when I put the Mopar cam in I didn't
change the valve springs over to Mopar. I also may have screwed up by not
breaking the Mopar cam in with the outer spring first then putting the inner
in afterwords. I thought they were close enough to work and I guess I was
just lazy. After the Mopar cam went bad, I've installed Racer Brown cam,
lifters, springs, (and this time I broke it in using just the outer spring
then installing the inner after the cam ran for about 30 minutes). I also
have their roller rockers with Mopar pushrods. So far I haven't had any
problems but I'm also afraid,
(read: gunshy), to run the motor hard after all the trouble I've had. 
The block came out of a motorhome that had about 50,000 miles on it with no
problems, so I assume the block should be okay. I'm seriously thinking about
finding another block and starting over. This motor is the noisiest motor
I've ever heard also. Even with a hydraulic lifter cam is sounds like it's
got solids. I did have the piston to wall clearance set up around .004 but I
don't think that is the noise problem. Bottom end is a Eagle crank, CAT rods
and diamond racing pistons so I think the bottom end is pretty much bullet
proof. I'm just about at my wits end.
I've also check the oil flow with the lifters out and using a primer tool to
turn the pump. It flows very well as far as I can tell.

Bill C.

> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
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> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
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> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
--
  William Cole
  wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx

--
http://www.fastmail.fm - And now for something completely different.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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