RE: cam positioning

["Earl H. " <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Bill,

If I recall the allowed compression on a Mopar hydraulic lifter is about
.060 compression. 
So I would go at least one full turn after zero. The way I set hydraulics is
by bringing that 
cylinder to top dead center, then start tighten the rocker while rotating
the push rod, when 
I get it to stop, I go one full turn after that. Always worked for me. I
think a half turn is not 
enough. If you do readjust the valves, check your wipe between the roller
and stem just 
to make sure your not running off the back side of the stem, or the push rod
cup is not 
interfering with the rocker. This is a common problem with Mopar aftermarket
rockers. I 
understand being burned out working on cars. As much as I hate winter, I am
glad to take 
a break. I was at the track almost every weekend this year, and by the end
of the year I 
never wanted to go to another drag race. But two weeks after the track
closed, I went to 
Vegas for a super comp race.

You and the family have a wonderful and safe holidays. I am off until
Christmas. I think I will 
go investigate a KB water block 500inch hemi a guy told me about.

Earl

-----Original Message-----
From: William Cole [mailto:wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 6:21 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: cam positioning


Earl,
When I first put the RB cam in I used the Hughes pushrods that I had from
the beginning. I was rolling the motor over by hand to set the zero gap
setting. When the motor refused to  turn we started looking at what the
problem was. It turned out the Hughes and Mopar solid lifters have a
different depth where the pushrod rides in the lifter. The hydraulic pad
where the pushrod rides in the lifter is set higher up in the lifter. It
turns out the solid pushrods were about a 1/4 inch too long. That's why the
motor wouldn't turn over. So I borrowed a set of stock Mopar pushrods and
put them in to get the motor done so I could run it. I know I should have
checked the geometry of the rocker and valve head but I was in  hurry to
finish. Since then I have turned the motor over using the starter and the
rocker seems to be running fine on the valve head.
It may not be absolute perfect but it's working. The motor runs fine except
I'm a little afraid to run it past 5000 RPM. Every time I do, it sounds like
one of the rockers is making more noise than it should. I may double check
the zero setting on the rockers. I never did find out for sure how far you
take the rocker down after you hit no clearance on the rocker. I only went a
half a turn down. Maybe that wasn't enough. I guess I could call RB and ask
to be sure. That may be my extra noise the motor is making. Come Spring,
we'll see. I just don't want to tear the upper half of the motor down to do
the "mark the lifter and turn it over" thing. I'm burned out on working on
this thing.

Bill
> 
> > 
> > 
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> > 
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person 
> > -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> > the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > 
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> --
>   William Cole
>   wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> --
> http://www.fastmail.fm - And now for something completely different.
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
--
  William Cole
  wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx

--
http://www.fastmail.fm - Accessible with your email software
                          or over the web


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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