RE: 64 Distributor post into turning the engine problems post...

[Layne Grissman <64Polara500@xxxxxxxxx>]

Transmission is the A727....completely rebuilt...but it is the first
time we have put everything together in years...and tried it....

Layne

On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 1:33 PM, <Dodger7998@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I doubt it is the wiring, the wiring only supplies the power, and you said
> it spun when you hit the key,,,,,,,,,am guessing bad starter or wrong
> starter  ring,,,,,,,,,,what is transmission ?
>
>
> In a message dated 7/1/2009 1:17:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> 64Polara500@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> ${top_text_ad}
> Big question...Last night, Dad and I tried  turning over the engine for
> the first time.  When we turned the key,  the Starter ( a Mopar Mini
> Starter) Turned, but did not engage the flywheel  to turn the engine
> itself....Seems like the Bendix drive didn't catch at  all...or even
> extend to catch the flywheel...
>
> this goes along with  something I was reading below...Could this have
> to do with wiring or the  way we have the car wired?  or do you guys
> think the starter could be  bad?
>
> Any ideas or thoughts would be helpful....We don't want to pull  the
> header to get to the starter...OMG, what a nightmare that will  be....
>
> Layne
>
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 12:12 PM, Bill  Watson<wwatson6@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>
>> The ballast  resistor supplies reduced power only to the ignition (coil).
>> There is  a separate volage limiter in the instrument panel for the
> gauges,
>>  usually a unit on its own but sometimes inside either the fuel gauge or
> the
>> temp gauge.
>>
>> On cars in the 1960's the supply for  the instrument gauge voltage limiter
>> came from the windshield wiper  switch via an 18 gauge black wire.   That
>> wire was connected at  the wiper switch to a 16 gauge black wire that ran
>> from the windshield  wiper switch to the ignition switch, ACC connector.
> That
>> way the  windshield wipers, and the gauges, got power only when the
> ignition
>>  switch was in either ACC or RUN positions.
>>
>> If you have a 12  volt coil and the distributor can handle a 12 volt
> input,
>> you can  bypass the ballast resistor.   The BR was originally installed
> when
>> manufacturers went to 12 volt ignition.   The points could  not handle 12
>> volts and wore out very quickly.   The BR was  placed before the coil to
>> eliminate the need for a 12 volt coil.  And it was easier, and cheaper, to
>> reduce the 12 volts of the  car's electrical supply than to reduce the
> bumped
>> up power put out by  the coil.
>>
>> There are four wires on the ballast resistor  -
>>
>> For the START side (power bypasses the resistor) :
>>  BROWN (18 gauge) - from the ignition switch - START position
>> DARK BLUE  (18 gauge) - to the coil
>>
>> For the RUN side (power runs through  the resistor) :
>> DARK BLUE (16 gauge) - from the ignition switch - RUN  position
>> DARK BLUE (18 gauge) - from the voltage regulator -  IGN
>>
>> Bill
>> Vancouver, BC
>>
>>
>> -----  Original Message ----- From: "SB" <polecat2@xxxxxxxx>
>> To:  <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009  9:09 AM
>> Subject: RE: Installing Elec Distributor in 64  Dodge
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Herb,
>>>
>>> I  thought everything under the dash received its power from the  welded
>>> splice connection that comes from the alternator charge  wire?  I have
>>> completely bypassed the ballast resister in a  number of cars I upgraded,
>>> with no ill effects.  I am not  doubting you, just looking for
>>> clarification in case I am  wrong.
>>>
>>>  Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Herb  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Note!!  Do Not just bypass the ballast  resister as it also supples (the
>>>> other wire from the resister)  reduced voltage to the voltage regulator
>>>> in your dash for the  gauges.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ----
>> Please  address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
>>  directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations
>> as well as other personal messages only to the intended  recipient, not to
>> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will  protect your privacy,
>> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune  the content signal to Mopar
>> topic.  Thanks!
>>
>> '62  to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>>  http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>>
>>
>>
>
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> ----
> Please  address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to  that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as
> well  as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
>  Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce
> the  total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.
> Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion  Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
>