My $.02..the rubber bushings are all available at NAPA for alot less
than
you see at these "preformance sites" Went with those. Starting the
torsion
bar project tomorrow and will keep you posted.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again
Doggone-it. one good source says poly graphite bushings give a
harsher
ride
than rubber bushings, and another good source says they ride like an
imperial. I am ready for all bushings replacement, don't care about
blasting the curves- just dont want to feel every bump in the
road. Can
I
have some more input please?................MO.....sw iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:38 AM
Subject: Sway Bars Again
As far as the ride in a cruiser not a lot unless you go too heavy
of a
sway
bar, (Here we go) in drive ability a sway bar mainly ties the
front end
together reducing body roll in turns and gives you a more stable
feel of
the
road off setting the need of a heaver T-bar. I just got the new
Hot Rod
in
the mail today and they have an article on MoPar handling bolt-on's
(What
Timing!). The article confirms what I wrote that a good set of
shocks &
sway bars give you a lot more gain in handling than replacing the
torsion
bars and springs. They went through a 67 Coronet and replaced
each item
step by step and ran it through a course. The new T-bars & rear
springs
had
a little less than a 2 MPH gain. The shocks had a 3 MPH gain and the
sway
bars showed just a little less than a 4 MPH gain through the course.
I saw some feed back that people were very happy with the ride
they got
with
the heaver T-bars and that is the ride they were looking for. I also
saw
people regret going to big so you need to really think out what your
wanting
your car to do before spending the hard earned dollars that we can
barely
spare on our cars. The point I was trying to make is if it's not
broke
don't
fix-it & bigger is not always better, it just depends on what you use
your
car for.
On my Sport Fury I used the .890 T-bars, pollygraphite bushings and a
good
set of gas shocks and it does in fact ride like an Imperial. I am
still
debating if I am going to even install the sway bar I got for it
or just
leave well enough alone! Also to heavy of a sway bar can ruin a
ride on
a
cruiser. My experience has been the stiffer the T bar & sway bar the
harsher the ride but the better the road feel. They also pointed
out in
the
article too stiff and the inside tire will lift off the ground in a
turn. I
hate when that happens!!
Now, on my Challenger R/T with a 440 I am using the .960 T-bars,
polly-bushings, heavy sway bars F&R, wide sticky tires &
performance gas
shocks, it goes were ever I point it when ever I want it to. Now,
for
us
old guys on a long trip/cruise it's just not very comfortable and you
can
feel it at the end of the day. But dam it's fun to drive!!
Herb
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Challenger RT 440
1999 Durango SLT 5.9
2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
St. Louis, MO.
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
-------Original Message-------
From: Douglas Sutherland
Date: 7/17/2009 1:00:52 PM
To: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: sway bars
Thanks for the info Herb.
Besides less lean in a turn, what else does a sway bar actually do
for
all
round drive ability (non racing cruiser)?
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
From: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: sway bars
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:14:21 -0500
The .920s are good if your looking for steer ability on a Big block
equipped
car, want to increase your load carrying capacity or help level /
stiffen
the car out on tight corners. The .960s are for road race
applications &
load increasing a high option car with a RB or Hemi. Both can
slow you
down
at the drag strip and take the driving enjoyment out of a
cruiser. .890s
are good for all round driving. .810s are good for low option 6
cylinder
and A engines. Now if your drag racing with a little street
driving the
810s & 90/10 shocks are the way to go for weight transfer. The
heaver
bars
work the same up & down and restrict weight transfer to the rear
wheels
and
actually unload your suspension a short distance off the line
about the
time
you hit second letting your tires spin instead of accelerating
faster.
When
your tires are spinning your not accelerating to your fullest
potential,
ultimately slowing you down from point A to point B. The bottom line
.890s
with a good set of shocks for best all round drive ability. I would
invest
in a sway bar before heaver T bars unless they needed to be replaced
anyway.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
not
to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
Mopar
topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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