
Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
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Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
- From: bruce buntain <bbuntain@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 18:38:52 +0800
Just to add my two kuai (I'm currently in Beijing, China) to the debate
about brake fluid, I've been using silicone Dot 5 brake fluid damn near
since it first became available. While I've never, to date, used it in a
Mopar vehicle, I've used it in a long string of Datsun race and high
performance street vehicles that I've owned and run. Among other vehicles, I
currently have it in my '02 Jetta that has Porsche discs and 4- pot calipers
and my '72 Datsun GTZ with a Brembo disc brake set-up front and rear. I also
use the same fluid for my hydraulic clutch in my GTZ and also have in all my
other Datsuns.
When I get back to Canada in a little over two weeks, I will rebuild my '64
Chrysler's braking system which is currently the stock drum/drum set-up with
the original wheel cylinders, master cylinder, etc. While a conversion to
front disc brakes will have to wait until this summer, or likely another
year, I'll probably use the silicone fluid for my rebuild. Not that the
Chrysler really needs the ability to withstand greater disc temperatures,
but since I'm out of the country most of the year, the Chrysler sits, like
all of my vehicles, for a considerable amount of time at a stretch. The
silicone fluid, I believe, preserves the braking system better than
non-silicone fluids do under such conditions. I've been largely living in
Asia now for the past eleven years and only get home for about 12 weeks a
year, and in all that time, I've never had any swelling of seals or undue
deterioration of the braking systems on any of my vehicles. I also never
experienced any problems with silicone fluid in my street and track vehicles
when I was running it before I went overseas, and like Steve, I do not
believe that silicone fluid 'draws' moisture. With my cars sitting most of
the year indoors in dry but unheated storage (Canadian Maritime winters,
remember), I should know.
Bruce
1964 Chrysler 300 Silver Edition
-----Original Message-----
From: MO ( Steve Mick)
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 3:26 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
Gary, in that case I would go with manufactures recommendation. My car is a
56 Chrysler with stock drum brakes. Now I am wondering if I should use
silicone with my Dodge Ram 1500 disc brake calipers. They will be used on
my 64 Dodge project. Anyone have first hand experience with silicone Dot 5
brake fluid in disc brake calipers?(new).......................MO
{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
Steve,
Yes, I followed the lengthy discussions re: synthetic vs. DOT 3 & 4
non-synthetic fluids. Master Power Brake does not warranty their system
if one uses a silicone/synthetic brake fluid; they claim it can swell the
seals in the calipers.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
Gary, this will probably stir up a debate, but this is what I have done
and 6 years experience has been trouble free ---except for the fluid
pressure switches as used on early Mopars. For some reason they are
short lived. If you have installed all new wheel cylinders and all new
brake lines and M/C , use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It does not get the
outside of your M/C rusty and wet- does not destroy its finish if
painted. , does not harm paint if spilled. I do not believe for a
second that it "draws moisture " and that collects in the lines.
J.M.O......................MO
{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 11:29 PM
Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
Thank you Stan, Rich, and Mark for your input thus far.
Yes, your experience on the piston diameter harmonizes with the
information I have read re: master cylinder selection. The smaller
piston bore in the MC requires less pedal effort and more pedal travel
than the larger 1 1/8"...MC piston bores. The 1" bore MC should be used
with the drum/drum and disc/drum manual setups and is recommended with
the manual disc/disc setups because excessive pedal pressure is required
if a large bore MC is used. The larger bore is suited for power assist
disc/drum and disc/disc if I remember correctly.
Not sure if the 1.032" bore billet aluminum Mopar Master Cylinder
requires nearly the same "reasonable" pedal pressure as the 1" bore cast
iron; I like the plastic resevoir and caps for filling and checking the
fluid levels as opposed to the cast iron MC with metal bar and one-piece
metal cap - too much chance to spill fluid I think as well as residual
fluid dripping down the sides of MC eating the painted MC surface.
Any more information specifically on the billet alum. vs. the cast iron
MC's?
Thanks again,
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
I'm not sure this will be helpful or not, but I used a 1 1/8"
master(aluminum 2-bolt listed for a '79 Dodge pickup from the local
store for 20 bucks) on my '69 Coronet with a MagnumHP adapter and I
have to practically stand on the pedal to stop it.
When I did my '64 Polara 'vert, I used one with a 1" bore(listed as '81
Mirada also from the local store for 20 bucks) and the same adapter and
it stops very well with much less effort.
I'll be switching the one on the Coronet when I get a chance to the
smaller one.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:00:00 PM
Subject: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas.
It is time for me to select a Mopar master cylinder for my four-wheel
manual disc brake Plymouth. I know staying with a 1" diameter MC piston
will reduce the effort needed on the pedal to actuate the manual system
but does anyone have exeperience/suggestions as to which Master
Cylinder is preferred - the Mopar 1 1/16" billet aluminum from the Diff
Doctor ($100 with adapter) or the Mopar cast iron unit sold by Master
Power Brake ($89)?
The plastic caps on the billet alum. one seem like less chance of
spilling the caustic brake fluid as opposed to the swing over bar on
the cast iron unit.
Let me know from your experience...
Thank you,
Gary Pavlovich
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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