RE: Fw: Brake woes

["Gary H." <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Not as easy when you can't see the parts. This hub - drum issue is  
common with other makes that use a similar tapered axle. 

"If you are going to keep the same drums, why not just drill out the 
rivets, tap the holes and use 3 countersunk screws to center the drums 
and the wheel to lug to hub to clamp it all together. Then when its time 
for brake work, the three screws will come out (if you use a lot of anti 
seize) and the drum will come off."

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/archive/index.php/t-9545.html

Thanks,
Gary H.


62pluckedchicken@  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Steve,  I think I'm starting to catch on... I don't have the 
> drums here to visualize, but I have to go over to Rob's shop tomorrow to 
> 
> deliver the shoes.
> 
> earlier posts talked of 3 large rivets, that hold the hub to the drum, 
> is that correct?
> 
> As far as putting on the new drums... 
> 
> Are you saying mount the hub on the tapered axle first, place the drums 
> on, then tightening the lugs hold the whole drum/hub together?
> 
> 
> Steve Mick wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > {Steve Mick}
> > http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 11:14 AM
> > Subject: Re: Brake woes
> > 
> > 
> > > Lost in space--I am re-sending this. I know there are posts that I have 
> > > missed getting ........................MO
> > > {Steve Mick}
> > > http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Steve Mick" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 12:34 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Brake woes
> > >
> > >
> > >> Bob, It is usually the front drums are swedged tight around the wheel 
> > >> studs. Any drums that are swedged to the studs can be freed by useing a 
> > >> hole saw thar just barely goes over the wheelstuds and cuts the drum 
> > >> free 
> > >> from around those studs.  The rear drum can be seperated from the rear 
> > >> taper hub by grinding off the rivits  heads that attach the hub to the 
> > >> drum and then either punch them out or drill them out.  I don't think 
> > >> the 
> > >> rear drums are swedged to the wheelstuds because the rivits held them 
> > >> together.  When you put the drums back on, you do not need to re-swedge 
> > >> them or re-rivit them. The wheel tightened up by the wheel nuts will 
> > >> clamp the drums to the hubs, like later modle 
> > >> cars...............................MO
> > >> {Steve Mick}
> > >> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> > >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > >> From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>
> > >> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > >> Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 9:40 PM
> > >> Subject: RE: Brake woes
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi Tom,
> > >>>
> > >>> I'm not familiar with brakes on the Dart, I barely have a minimal
> > >>> knowledge of my Chrysler's brakes ;(
> > >>>
> > >>> The rear drums on my Chrysler have to go on a tapered axle, the drums I
> > >>> bought don't have the hubs pre-fitted to the center hole, so they must
> > >>> come from the old drums.
> > >>>
> > >>> I don't need to save the old drums, we already tried using them and the
> > >>> brakes locked up, to the point of getting smoking hot... the old drums
> > >>> are shot.
> > >>>
> > >>> I do need to tell my mechanic how to get the hubs off the old drums and
> > >>> how to attach the hubs to the new drums.
> > >>>
> > >>> I'll fill in my mechanic about the swedge cutting tool used to remove
> > >>> the hubs, and see if he's familiar with it.
> > >>>
> > >>> I'm still not clear on how the hubs are then attached to the new drums.
> > >>> the hubs just rest against the drums???
> > >>>
> > >>> Tom Watters wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> If it's like the front hubs on my dart, originally the drums were
> > >>>> swedged to the hub on the knurls at the end of the lug studs.  There is
> > >>>> a swedge cutting tool that fits around the lug stud that can be used to
> > >>>> cut the swedged kunrls and the drum (Can Slightly enlarge the hole).
> > >>>> Then hub can be pressed out of the drum, if cutting the swedging didnt
> > >>>> release it.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Done right, the hub and the drum survive.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Done wrong, holes can be enlarged in the hub such that they have to get
> > >>>> oversized knurl studs to be able to fit.  Or drum can end up bent at 
> > >>>> the
> > >>>>
> > >>>> hub and be worthless.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On the new drum's, once your lugnuts are on and torqued down, the wheel
> > >>>> holds the drum from moving.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> --Tom
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On 4/13/2011 6:49 AM, 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > >>>> > I searched the Internet, and found a post removing/install the hun on
> > >>>> > drums, saying "grind off or drill through the rivets" but the 
> > >>>> > discussion
> > >>>> > on installing on the new drums says that rivets aren't needed... how
> > >>>> > does the hub stay in place on the new drums?
> > >>>> > Gary H. wrote:
> > >>>> >>
> > >>>> >> Kantor's version is probably just the drum. As you say, the picture
> > >>>> >> indicates so as well.
> > >>>> >>
> > >>>> >> I'll continue to look through the archive files for the procedure if 
> > >>>> >> you
> > >>>> >>
> > >>>> >> get stuck.
> > >>>> >>
> > >>>> >> Thanks,
> > >>>> >> Gary H.
> > >>>> >>
> > >>>> >>
> > >>>> >> 62pluckedchicken  wrote:
> > >>>> >>> I'll give him a call, and see what he says about removing the 
> > >>>> >>> hubs.. I
> > >>>> >>> wonder if the one from Kantor don't have the hubs either. The part
> > >>>> >>> picture doesn't show th hub
> > >>>> >
> > >>>> > ----
> > >>>> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> > >>>> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> > >>>> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > >>>> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> > >>>> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> > >>>> > the
> > >>>> > content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > >>>> >
> > >>>> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > >>>> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > >>>> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > >>>> >
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> -- 
> > >>>> -- 65 Dart GT Convertible 4bbl 4spd
> > >>>> -- North Las Vegas, NV
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> ----
> > >>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> > >>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> > >>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> > >>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> > >>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the 
> > >>> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > >>>
> > >>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> > >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > > 
> > 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.