What pic in what service manual? That's a
clue for us to exploit.
First, it could be a cable or part of a set up to
make your inside air hot in the winter or cool in the summer. Then it
would be part of it on the outside and the inside of the dash. This will
probably already be answered by the time you get it. Then just see the
black and bold line at the bottom and if you know what to do just delete this
and all other emails if you found your answer just make some sub-folders in
email with a main folder, 1962 to 1965 Q and A. and subfolders under that for
reference. Or one of many other ways. Access Gary's web site via
your cell phone. I'm lucky enough to get by but many others
struggle. Jacob seems like he could hook something like that up forhimself
if he wants but to me it is like reinventing the wheel since its already been
done. I probably beating a dead horse below. But anyone alrealy
knowinging it doesn't have to read it and should always check out Gary's site
before doing anything anyway.
Lot's of stuff can run off one kind of cam or
another. The fuel pump runs off a cam. There is one bolt there that
you need a special wrench to get to or have a new fuel pump put on by someone
with that special wrench (usually homemade) so all bolts are tight on the fuel
pump. It can be disabled with plate held on by two little bolts. If
not, the mechanical pump goes on right there. That pump contains I think
three and maybe four bolts holding it in. Even if the person who got it
out couldn't get it back in, he could have just left it out, causing the other
bolts to loosen and cause problems. With an electric fuel pump and a
pressure regulator, you don't need no steenin' fuel pump and you can take it out
and plug up the hole(s). I think the plate covers it all.
Coming out of the side of the block is a rod made
out of metal about 3/8"or so thidk with a spring behind it. This may
be close to the fuel pump or part of the reassembly when you put a new one
on. Here's where you can put in a heavier spring in for more oil
pressure on a 413 and up Mopar block. Some used to put a flat washer
behind the cap-screw on that held it together and make the spring stronger that
way.
Gary's site has a lot more stuff on it,
but you are narrowing down the problem and it could still be lots
of things. On top of the other things
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
is there anyway to disable the cam till i get a chance to get
something else? i noticed it was stuck the other day after comparing my carb
to a pic in the service manual. i noticed something was different so i fiddled
with it and click it went where it should. its so hot down here all the time i
dont really need it right now, maybe when it gets cold in december-january.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Stephen Andrachek
<s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Get a carb like it rebuilt by someone who knows
what they are doing or get a new carb that hooks up to your linkage
ok. That sounds like a good place to start. The "fast idle" cam
seems to be stuck. This cam keeps the engine at fast idle until it
warms up enough. Blocked heat risers may cause this, but I would guess
only in colder weather and only until the engine warmed up.
Remember the old gas and the fuel tank and fuel
filters too.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 5:19
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
i just checked out those links...ill def be making one of
those! one thing i noticed though starting my car yesterday. i noticed
that my carb has no electric choke. when i crank it no matter hot or cold
i believe the choke is activating. I noticed by the high idle and when i
give it rpm a little while after starting it goes back down. any ideas to
check and see if thats my problem? i never messed with any carb other than
a electric eldelbrock 4barrel, so this old 2barrel is new to me. Thanks!
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