Re: Brake blues!

[Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx>]

If it were me, I'd go there with the hub and drum when the expert is
there.  Have him describe the exact procedure.  Make sure he's saying
things like "I'll cut out the studs with a swagging tool", not "I'll
press them out with my hydraulic press".  Ask about reusing the hubs
with new drums and whether they can get American, not Chinese made
drums.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Well good news, I called the local alignment and brake shop, te guy that works there has been doing brakes or 38 years, said they do hot rods and classics all the time. I described what I had and he tells me they'll be able to handle it and he has no doubt the man that does the brakes will be able to do it and have the tools for it...should I pop on these guys and try them? He said theyll look at it with me first and tell me what they'll do.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 13, 2012, at 11:32 AM, Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> Jacob,
>>
>> Try calling Craig Stanley of Mobile Parts at 516-485-1935.  I'd bet he
>> can get whatever you need, but I have no clue about shipping.  He's
>> old school and has to go to the library for internet and email and
>> such, so phone is the best way.  Be warned, he can talk.
>>
>> Are your hubs still good?  You can get new repro drums made from
>> American iron.  Hubs are another story.  If you need hubs, your best
>> bet will be to find them already on an old drum, but the drum will
>> likely be shot and you'll have to have them removed by someone who
>> understands the swagging process.  The guys who do it right have a
>> special cutting tool.  Don't go to the guy who said "you heat it" to
>> remove them.
>>
>> - Jim
>> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
>> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
>> '63 Polara 500 (383)
>> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
>> '71 Bronco
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 6:23 AM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>> I thought about just getting new drum and shoes and finding a brake shop. As
>>> far as mechanic shops that have been around 30 years in lc, I don't think
>>> there is any! Today ima call around and see what people offer now that I
>>> have all this info.
>>>
>>> Scarebird doesn't seem like its that bad of a kit. 165 plus parts? As long
>>> as it doesn't require welding, or cutting, I'd be fine lol but for right now
>>> I think it's be best to find a shop.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Feb 13, 2012, at 4:46 AM, Eric Sturgis <ericsturgis@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>
>>> I've not done an 880, but my Newport.  It's not hard to do, but I'm thinking
>>> you will need help.  It may be a bit beyond your abilities at the moment.
>>> Yes you can get the parts from any auto parts store.  The kit from Scarebird
>>> was only $165, then you would also have to get the rotors and calipers and
>>> pads.  This setup uses 1970-72 Ford Galaxie rotors and 1994-99 Dodge Ram
>>> 1500 calipers, so you can price it out.  And you can't use the single master
>>> cylinder.  The calipers are much larger than the wheel cylinders they are
>>> replacing, you will have to get one of those too.  Not sure what one they
>>> use for a Scarebird kit, probably a disk/drum 1976 Dart would work...but you
>>> can ask them via E-Mail.  You can probably find a used drum, take the car to
>>> a repair shop (find one that's been around for 30 year or more) and pay them
>>> less than 200 to redo front brakes.  My rear brakes only cost me 130.00 to
>>> have redone including new studs.
>>>
>>> The kit from AAJ brakes cost me about 600-700 for everything, I forget now.
>>> But I really like it, nice even braking, no pulling.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Eric
>>> Tacoma, WA
>>> 1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
>>>
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>>
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>
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> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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