Re: body work?
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Re: body work?



Also..with the fender unbolted, you might be changing the geometry of the entire fender. Hope you understand what I just said..hehehe
Ollie
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: body work?
 
How do you do that with the heat/cold rag?  Sounds interesting.
 
Larry (Akron)
 
In a message dated 4/24/2012 10:28:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, gwwilson70@xxxxxxxxx writes:
There is another way.  I use heat and a cold rag to help draw the dent out.  May not work if its to much of a crease.   Takes pateince and time.   Just my 2 % worth.

On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 7:05 AM, Scott Hinojos <lightsplicer@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thank you, Ollie and Eric! I'll try the slide hammer approach first. The car is nearly rust-free, so I might as well keep it original.

The fender looks like a real pain to remove, so I'd like to avoid that chore if possible. I'm gonna go slide hammer shopping now...

Thanks again!

On Apr 23, 2012 11:00 AM, "Ollie" <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Scott,
It does not look all that bad to me. You are using the correct approach, get the body line straight first. Looks like a job for a slide hammer.  The high spot will come out when you get the dent pulled out. I would not replace the fender unless you have rust damage on the lower portion.
Ollie

-----Original Message----- From: Scott Hinojos
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:14 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@googlegroups.com
Subject: body work?

Hey all,
I've been trying to get a nice big wrinkle out of my driver's side
fender that the original owner added. Below are pics of what I'm up
against. What I am wondering is, should I take the fender off the car
to get this work finished? It seems like because of where the damage
is, it's going to be very difficult, if not impossible, to get the
fender correct again without removing the fender. It seems like the
old hammer and dolly isn't going to work as well as I'd hoped it
would.

This is the damage as it was before I started:
http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/lightsplicer/1964%20Chrysler%20300/Fender%20damage/20120422_150343.jpg

I feel like that if I pull that dent out where the character line is,
everything will straighten out about 95%.
http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/lightsplicer/1964%20Chrysler%20300/Fender%20damage/20120422_155036.jpg

You can see here that the top of the fender is peaked a bit, which
might be a problem even after I get the character line straight...
http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/lightsplicer/1964%20Chrysler%20300/Fender%20damage/20120422_150359.jpg

Here, you can see that I worked the newest (the last to be made in the
impact) of the wrinkles out. I got a little overzealous and pushed
parts in a bit too far, though...
http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/lightsplicer/1964%20Chrysler%20300/Fender%20damage/20120422_155103.jpg

Any suggestions? Do you folks think I could use a slide hammer in the
trim holes to pull the damage out? I have limited access to those
holes, so I think I could get a washer or something to back up the
metal around the holes so it doesn't get damaged.

Thank you for any help!
--
~S~
'64 Chrysler 300, AKA: "Leon", 383, 727, 8 3/4
'62 Mercury Comet Custom wagon... a work-in-progress for too many years.

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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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--
Gwwilson
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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