Re: Running a bit hot,,,Question!

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

OK,

Gary H. has very good formation on trouble shooting a cooling system
per his message.  I would be concerned about running a cap much higher
than 13 pounds but I know some who run  a 16 pound cap.

My last comments were too short, the pressure cap just raises the
boiling point of the water, the actual engine temperature is as you
know controlled by the thermostat.

However as we all know it is dangerous to take the cap  off of a
radiator when an engine is too hot.  What happens is that if the water
temperature is over 212 degrees as soon as the cap is removed the
coolant system pressure drops  to zero and the water in the system
instantly flashes to steam, very dangerous.

I went through a long and expensive process of getting my 383 to
cool.  It is not stock but I am also in Yuma  where summer
temperatures are brutal.

I had my original radiator recored because it was old, my  car car has
been sitting in Arkansas for almost 30 years before I got it and
started working on it.

When I got the car done  (about a 3 year process at my brother's
house) and took it to Arizona it was running too warm, when the
temperature goes over the thermostat setting the thermostat has lost
control and is fully open and is not able  to do  any more.  I was
running over 200 on the road and 220 plus in town.  As another member
said it is not overheating until it boils over - true but still
running too hot for me.

I bought repro shroud at Mopars In The Park but the straps on the side
of the radiator needed to be moved a little for it to work, when it
was recored they were not soldered in exactly the same spot.  I took
the radiator to a radiator shop ran by a old guy.

I tried to tell him I was over heating and wanted the straps moved so
I could put a shroud  on the radiator.  He did not want to look at the
radiator,  he  just said old Mopars do not over heat, I had another
problem, timing or thermostat.  He took me back and showed me the
"correct" thermostat but did not have a new 180 degree one to sell
me.  Per him this is the correct thermostat and what I ordered and
installed:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mihith1.html

These can be bought from  others like Summit.  Mancini also sells a
fan shroud like the one I bought.  The thermostat has a much larger
opening when open than standards stats.

I finally convinced him that my timing and thermostat were just fine
and asked him to look at the radiator I needed the straps moved on.

His first comment was "I don't know who did this for you but it will
not work in Arizona".  Back through the shop we went and he started
showing me radiators and showing me what was wrong with mine.
Although mine was recored to a 3-row the horizontal fins were almost
twice too far apart compared to  the oringinal core.  I told him  it
was done in Arkansas, he said it would  run in Arkansas but not in
Arizona,  I needed the correct core (that he could not do for  me) or
a new radiator.  He finally moved the straps, I installed the radiator
and shroud, no improvement.  I went to the largest electric fan I
could put on our skinny radiators, no  improvement.

I  talked to US Radiator in Phenoix (as hot as Yuma) and explained my
problem.  The guy I  talked to walked me through all  steps of trouble
shooting my problem and agreed,  I needed a new radiator.  I  ordered
a copper 3-core radiator from them, did not use the shroud and I do
not have a cooling problem,  GONE.

As others have said an aluminum radiator would have been  cheaper and
do a wonderful  job of cooling however I wanted a stock look.

My radiator looks stock except it does not have the Mopar data in the
top of it.

I might add,  I have a 4-speed so I do not have to deal with the
transmission cooler.

My experience may not relate to yours however it is a good example of
how to throw money and time at a problem until solved.  (I  have a
very understanding wife)

Good Luck
Dennis C.

On Jul 21, 4:39 pm, Jay <krods...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Dennis,
> Thanks for the info, its still running a bit hot, next week i will try a
> different approach.
> I will have the  radiator flushed, cleaned and welded ,today i found two pin
> holes and a minor quarter inch crack along the back of the radiator and maybe
> i'll remove the 18 psi cap along with the trans cooler.
>
> Jay,
> 65 B/B Coronet 500.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Dennis C. <dennis.2...@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sat, July 21, 2012 10:17:06 AM
> Subject: Re: Running a bit hot,,,Question!
>
> Looks like you have been getting some very good information on cooiing
> systems.  Just a recap of radiator caps:
>
> The pressure cap increases the maximun pressure in the system AND
> increases the boiling point of the coolant in your system.  The
> increase in boiling point and pressure is approximately 3 degrees per
> 1 pound increase in pressure cap rating.
>
> Therefore a 13 pound cap will increase the boiling temperature of your
> radiator to approximately 242 degrees.  (my choice for a cap)
>
> Therefore a 18 pound cap will increase the boiling temperature of your
> radiator to approximately 266 degrees.  (very hot)
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Jul 14, 5:19 am, Jay <krods...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > Hello to all,,Question!
>
> > My 440's seem to be running a bit hot,,it's a 1971 and i was running a 180
> > degree thermostat,and so just yesterday i changed it over to a 160 degree.
> What
> > is the best or proper thermostat to use on that 440.
>
> > The radiator cap was a Stants 13 psi and i changed it over to a Mopar 18 psi
> > that i hand as an extra.
> > It keeps blowing out antifreeze into the reserve tank every time i park it
> > What is the best or proper radiator cap to use on a 440 of that year.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Jay
> > 1965 727,  B/B Coronet 500.
>
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