RE: Pertronix
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RE: Pertronix



When did it start doing this? Was it running fine before?

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jim Altemose
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 4:01 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Pertronix

 

No, but I can try that.  I pulled the number 1 plug wire from the plug and wasn't getting a spark to ground.  (I stuck in a bolt that was the right size into the rubber sleeve.)  I didn't bother with any of the other wires since I'm getting no signs of firing on any cylinders.  It's turning over well, but no hint of the engine firing.  Wires and cap and rotor are only 2 years old.  Plugs are 1 year old.  I smell more gas as I'm turning it, so I'm guessing my fuel delivery is OK, but I can check that too.

As always, thanks.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

You should have 12v to the coil side of the resistor to run correctly.    Have you pulled a plug wire from the cap to see if spark will jump from the cap to a ground?  The wires can look good but be bad and do exactly what your describing.  By just spraying WD40 on the wires will displace moisture enough to start. 

 

 

 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Jim Altemose

Date: 12/20/2012 9:31:36 AM

Subject: Re: Pertronix

 

Thanks Herb.

Do I have this right?  You're saying that although I visually see what looks like a strong spark coming out of the coil into the distributor, it may still not be enough?  I should try bypassing the ballast resistor?  Is this something I can measure with a meter? 

Just to rehash, I'm getting what looks like a good spark from the wire that goes into the distributor from the coil.  But no spark from the plug wires.  I've replaced the rotor; the next thing I was going to try is replacing the cap.  It's a pertronix ignitor.

Thanks.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Too low of voltage to run correctly.  Common mistake on Pertronix installs.  When electronic items get to a minimum voltage they just shutoff, and that voltage, is negatively effected by heat, hence driving down the road and it just shuts off.  Your running at about 7 volts with the resistor and a lot of 12 volt items will shut down at 5 or 6 volts.  So your running right at the thresh hold of dyeing all the time!  Its best to bypass a good resister behind it, or I save old bad ones and solder a wire from spade to spade behind it.  That way you keep it looking like Ma MoPar wanted it to look.  And from loosing points at car shows if your in to that.  Or, if your not, just eliminate it all together. 

 

 

 

 

  Herb

 

1954 DeSoto Firedome Estate Wagon 276 HEMI

1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale

1959 Dodge Coronet 326 Poly

1961 Plymouth Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly

1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly

1963 Plymouth Fury 2D/HT 7.0L Gen III HEMI

1963 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible 361

1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440

1979 Dodge Aspen Sport Wagon 360

1999 Durango SLT 5.9L

2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L

St. Louis, MO.

 

 &

 

 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Jim Altemose

Date: 12/20/2012 8:00:53 AM

Subject: Re: Pertronix

 

Interesting.  Is there any downside to keeping the resistor?

 

- Jim

Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY

'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)

'63 Polara 500 (383)

'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)

'71 Bronco

 

 

On Wed, Dec 19, 2012 at 8:47 PM, Jim Hanlon <jhanlon1903@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> with the petronix you dont need a resistor,if you want to keep it looking

> stock you can take the resistor out from the back and replace it with wire

> ,crimped into the stock connections,reinstall,and you can't tell.

> 

> 

> On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 10:47 PM, Doug J <63sprtfury@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>> 

>> I'm with ya too Dodger,, and like Gary said,,, it is getting harder to

>> find even 70's or 80's mopes in the junk yards.  However,, when I finally

>> did my conversion on the '63 last year, the only "new" part I bought was  a

>> ballast resistor.  Although I cheated a bit, as I had an old orange box yet

>> from my last "race" car that had only a season on it before I upgraded the

>> ignition system.  Still,, that was "old" money.  LOL  Can not believe how

>> much better the old girl starts with the electronic conversion.  I put the

>> control box on the radiator support behind the horns.  Casual observers

>> don't even notice it. Of course you guys would spot it in an instant,, which

>> is what I like about the group. All the great knowledge.

>> BTW, I wouldn't be afraid of the Pertronix unit, I had that system on an

>> old Massey Harris loader tractor on my acreage for years, it was like a kiss

>> from heaven when it came to cold weather starts. Which is a real test for

>> old mechanicals.

>> 

>> Doug

>> '63 Sport Fury 'vert

>> 

>> 

>> 

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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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