Re: Leak down Test and Replacing Rings
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Re: Leak down Test and Replacing Rings



If you are pulling 180lbs cold, I wouldn't worry about reringing it, unless it is burning oil or has excessive blowby.  Especially if you are looking to just do a quicky hone job; I have seen more harm than good come from first timers doing that.

-John


On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Eric Sturgis <ericsturgis@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I have always done a compression test on a fully warmed up motor, I don't know about on a cold motor.  I would expect it to fail on a cold motor as warm metal expands and seals better.  But I'm sure others know much better than I do.  


On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 5:50 AM, Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Partially ran a leak down and compression test on a my 440 yesterday. Engine was
not warm, just room temperature of about 60 degrees.(Does that matter?)
 Compression on 4 cylinders (1,3,5,7)  was around 180 psi (9.5-1 engine) but
rapidly fell off once I stopped turning the engine. Leak down was 85% for
cylinder 1 and about 45% on 8, 4 & 3. (Had to quit for dinner while trying to do
#6 which is tough to do due to clearances)  Based on the sound, the air is
leaking past the rings, not the valves. Since 1 and 3 were tested both ways, not
thinking head gasket.

So, I think I need to rering the engine.

If I need to rering, can I hone the engine while it's in the car with the crank
in place or is there too much grit generated and I'm pushing it. Can I reuse the
rings?  I suspect the problem is a result of gas washing the oil off the walls
since I've had a few heavy fuel discharges from the carb - stuck floats due to
my fault of putting the carb together incorrectly



Akron Don Gallimore

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Eric Sturgis
Tacoma, WA
1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT

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