Re: Engine Building-Things to Look Out For
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Re: Engine Building-Things to Look Out For



I don't know who makes MOPARs crank, probably china. Just check it over before you run it.   Quite frankly these engines have quite a bit of leeway. It really doesn't matter if its out of round, tapered or upside down, people tend to over think things.  I do my machine work so I know were Im at and trust my crank grinder  to do his part right. I don't remember the last time I even checked bearing clearances, if the crank turns Im good.   No response to the oil system blueprinting?


On Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:46 AM, Bill Paxton <wmp4@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


                Who makes the one from Mopar? Is it any good?
 
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bill M
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:44 AM
To: 62-65 Mopar List
Subject: Re: Engine Building-Things to Look Out For
 
Glad to know I have "junk" in my $6,000 motor...Thanks

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
 
On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 10:41 AM, 'Stan Kafouse' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Eagle parts are in my opinion, garbage. The parts are cast and machined in china. When you machine any part it needs to cool and be checked.  This may take three or four cooling periods. There is no cool down period in china. Scat casts there parts in china but does the finish work here. Scat is much better than eagle. Eagle parts are not only tapered Im sure your crank is egg shaped also. The reason your crank is on the fat side is so when you check your clearances you can adjust them to what you want. Either polish the crank or open up the rods. The rods will also be on the tight side so you can bump them to your proper clearances. The pin bushing is also small so you can fit it to your pins. These people don't know what your using the parts for , race or street, so everything is big or small so you can adjust your clearances. I personally keep the rods on the low side so as to clamp the bearing tighter, more bearing crush. The crank can be "undersize" as long as your clearances are right, who cares if the crank is undersize, the engine sure doesn't know. The standard rod bolts eagle uses are junk(my opinion) and need to be upgraded to the 2000 series bolt.    Just my thoughts and experiences.  How about a discussion on oil system blueprinting on the small block lots to be gained there.
 
On Wednesday, September 17, 2014 11:49 AM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
 
Just for word from my machinist regarding something I wouldn't have thought of. I'm having him assemble my Poly Stroker short block (due to my lack of time) and he came across something interesting. Apparently the crank main journals were machined on the "fat" side making the bearing clearance come out to less than .001". He has to order some main bearings that were "oversize" and a little thinner so he could get the proper clearance.

Another thing to look out for...I purchased a brand name (Eagle ESP) cast 4.00" stroker crank. Apparently he's seen issues where the main and rod journals have been ground with a taper to them due to poor wheel dressing in (likely Chinese) factories.

Just an FYI for those of you who are building now or in the future.

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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