Re: Stroker lit up, but I have issues
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Stroker lit up, but I have issues



Sounds vacuum related to me. Had same symptoms found the front carb was not sealing due to a tiny speck of powder coating next to the front mount bolt. Easy fix but hard to find. The problem came back later found the rubber caps that came with the carbs had all cracked. Guess they don't make them like they use to. I would also recommend the fiber intake gaskets if you only used the metal one.

Sent from John

On Sep 19, 2014, at 15:53, "'Stan Kafouse' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Have you checked your balancer to see if it has slipped?  How do you come up with 50 degrees of timing,? balancer tape , dial back to zero timing light?    Are you using the right balancer there is a difference from 69 back and 70 up.
Firing order or 180 out has nothing to do with 50 degrees timing being needed. Did you put a vacuum gauge on it?
Number one spark plug wire from the factory if you look straight down from at the top of the dist is straight forward, 6 oclock position. Going left, counterclockwise is number 8 which has a hold down clip and a locating tab for the cap. You may have the correct order but are they in the right terminal?  Your vacuum canister hose nipple should lay at the 9 oclock position Parelel (cant spell it) with the firewall.   If you choke off the air with your hand over the carb and it smoothes out you have to much air getting in, a vacuum leak as it is called.   I just had a car here like yours, 5 inches of vacuum and would not move and it own power. Had an aluminum intake with steel gaskets and intake manifold bolts were very short with almost no thread engagement. I used fiber gaskets and factory bolts and got to 15 inches and ran like a raped ape after that. Couldn't really find that vacuum leak either. Found it when I went to tighten intake screws that mostly slipped.  Hope this helps.


On Friday, September 19, 2014 11:52 AM, JimJablonski <groovinjim@xxxxxxx> wrote:


Another update:

- Quite sure the distributor is not 180 out given I held my thumb over the #1 hole when I rotated up to TDC and felt really good pressure.  Based on previous experiences I'm pretty sure I would have turned the motor into a flame thrower if it was 180 out (?)
- Quite sure the spark plug wires are correct but I checked again.  And again.  And again... :-p
- I swapped in an old distributor, same results
- I swapped in an Orange box, same results
- Ran a ground strap directly to the Orange box (now on the car in place of the Chrome one), same results

I've got myself talked into pulling the front of the motor apart this weekend and looking at the timing chain / gears and re-degreeing the cam.  Ugh.  What's driving me here is the fact that it won't start unless it's advanced to approximately 50 degrees.  (Again, once started, when I retard it down to 30 or so, it stalls out.)

The one thing that's bothering me is that it runs relatively OK at start-up when the choke is on (even though it is way over-advanced), then worsens as it leans out while the choke heats up and opens.  I know many would say this is probably a vacuum leak, but I don't see one.  Besides, why does it need to be so far advanced before it will start?  If it was a vacuum leak, it seems to me that it would start in the "normal" timing range, but not idle.

BTW, team, check something for me?   I attached the cam card.  The way I am reading it is if I install it straight up (not advancing or retarding it with bushings, etc.), it will be 0 advanced.  Does that look right to you?

Thank you,

Jim



--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network