Re: 225
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Re: 225



Yes.........Don't use 10w-40 in it!!  Or use it at your own peril!
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bob
Date: 10/7/2014 8:41:48 PM
Subject: Re: 225
 
Is there some 225 comment/info here? 

BC


On 10/7/2014 8:08 PM, Herb wrote:
20-40 is acceptable because it is not over loaded with viscosity enhancers like 10-40.  Engine builders love 10-40 till you have one of their engines in your car!  10-40 brings them a lot of business a lot quicker.
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 10/7/2014 5:53:36 PM
Subject: RE: 225
 

Herb - my original owners manual for the 273 engine recommends 10w30 or 20w40 oil depending on temperature.  I haven't owned the car for awhile but now that I think back, I recall that it was Rotella 15w40, which is close to factory spec. Perhaps recommendations have since changed but the engine ran well with that oil for quite a long time.

On Oct 7, 2014 5:20 PM, "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I am shocked a real mechanic would recommend 10-40 oil in a gasoline engine!
 

Many Chrysler cars cannot use 10W40 oil. Always use the recommended oil and Trans fluid. Never take the oil change place's word for it. Look it up yourself.

The use of 10W40 motor oil was phased out by vehicle manufactures when piston ring quality was improved to pass the 100,000 mile emission durability test. 10W40 has a high amount of viscosity index improvers that may/will leave deposits in the piston ring groves.

The following statement is from a Chrysler bulletin; SAE 10W-40 is not included in the viscosity chart for gasoline engines, for several reasons, including:

^ Fuel economy with SAE 10W-30 oils is about 1% better than that with SAE 10W-40 oils.

^ SAE 10W-30 oils generally produce less piston and ring deposits than SAE 10W-40 oils. Such deposits can lead to stuck rings and increased oil consumption & wear.

The use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil in a vehicle equipped with a gasoline engine will not automatically void your New Car Limited Warranty. However, since SAE 10W-40 engine oil is not recommended for use in Vehicles equipped with gasoline engines, if the use of such oil causes damage, the cost of the engine repair will not be covered by the Warranty. The Warranty does not cover any damage due to the use of non-recommended oils, whether SAE 10W-40 or some other viscosity. In addition, the Warranty does not cover damages caused by the use of oils that do not meet the recommended API quality or SAE viscosity grade.

 

I am sure you have no concerns about any warranty on your car, the point is that 10-40 oil is overloaded with viscosity enhancers to the point that they cause deposits on rings and valves ultimately turning into abrasives causing premature damage to your engine.

 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 10/7/2014 2:26:16 PM
Subject: RE: 225
 

I had low oil pressure especially at hot idle in a 273 with occasional noise from one lifter and my mechanic advised using Rotella 10W40.  I used it for a couple of thousand miles and it worked well with better pressure and no lifter noise.

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hall, Ricky L
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 2:57 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: 225

 

Diesel oil sure has worked well for me in several old cars.  Put synthetic Castrol for classic cars in the 318 Poly and a ’72 Cadillac 472ci and both started leaking oil when they did not before.  Switched next time to Rotella T dino and they stopped leaking and the noisy tappet from a weak lifter on the Cadillac stopped even at cold start-up.

 

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Steve Mick
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 11:34 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 225

 

Now then, with the slant six--would it be better to use diesel oil, raceing oil, or common motor oil with ZDDP additive?.......................MO   8-)

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 9:05 AM

Subject: RE: 225

 

It is obviously a MoPar conspiracy............

 

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ray Bell
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 7:02 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 225

 

There's one thing I don't understand...

 

I have proved with these diagrams that the engine is NO LOWER AT ALL. Yet each time I have stated that someone comes back and says it's lower. It definitely is no lower!

 

The cylinder head casting, in fact, is higher with the engine slanted. Look closely at the diagrams.

 

The lower centre of gravity is principally because the camshaft and lifters are significantly lower and the right side of the engine is lower. The left side of the engine is higher. A further lowering of the centre of gravity could have been achieved by the retention of an alloy intake manifold, even more with an alloy head.

 

Yes, the engine bay in the Australian cars was the same as US cars until 1969, the only differences being in the chassis rails where the steering box and idler arm are mounted. 

 

As to engine length, the shortness of the engine relied on two things. First, the bore centres being close together; second the water pump being mounted to one side. BOTH of these could have been achieved with a vertical engine.

 

The engines sat no lower in the Australian cars, they didn't have to. The suspensions were no lower, that would never work here.

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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