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I can not count the number of times I have been
frustrated over a problem , only to find it something simple and easy to
fix. Case in point, working for hours and ready to start throwing tools ,
because my chain on my chainsaw is bound up. Turned out to be the chain
brake safety bar was tripped !!
DUH...........................MO
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2014 8:49
PM
Subject: CONFESSION IS GOOD FOR THE
SOUL
Hello Folks, While I have my typing finger warmed up, I have a
confession to make. Preface: Chrysler heavy line tech, 25 yrs., same stall,
outlasted 4 changes of ownership, and retired in 1999. My baby is a 1965
Belvedere II, all power, air, cruise, discs, 1200 watt sound sys. (yea I know
what your thinking but it sure makes Conway Twitty, Ferlin Huskey, Roy
Clark, and Tennessee Ernie Ford to my liking), power antennae, electric trunk
release. The problem started one night when my baby and I were out for a
ride, and while sitting at a red light I noticed the dash lights, (had changed
to LED), flickering and pulsating. Being that nothing less than perfect would
be tolerated, this problem would have to be cured. The original 45 amp alt.
had already been the issue of a no charge situation, broken rotor wire, but
was re-soldered and repaired. With the increased audio load and intermittent
electric loads I decided a more powerful charging system was needed. I opted
for a 160 amp 1989 mopar (mitsubishi) alt, which is a bolt on deal after
shaving .080 off of the pivot bracket and bushing the adjuster strap bolt hole
down to 5/16, was already using a 70's and 80's regulator. Don't get your
drawers in a knot, the original alt. wire still feeds the amp gauge and
interior via the fusible link and a 4 gauge runs to the battery then through a
fused circuit to the amps. Now to the confession part: after 4 nights of
ohming, voltage tests, ground cleaning, bulkhead cleaning, and packing with
diaelectric grease, disconnecting all circuits on the pos. field wire circuit
to check for a voltage drop as each one was reconnected, I had come to
the conclusion that the evaporator case would have to come out to check the
other side of the bulkhead connector as it is not visible or touchable from
the inside with that case in the way. While sitting in the drivers seat,
watching the dash and interior lights flicker, and wiping the tears from my
eyes from contemplating the upcoming task, the repair was revealed, surely a
message from above. I reached over to turn the lights off and just as I
touched the headlamp switch the problem ceased. GLORY HALLA LOU YA The problem
was just the wiper arm contacting the rheostat in the headlamp switch wasn't
making a good connection. Repaired by turning switch knob down just enough to
contact the next coil on the rheostat. THANKS for giving me a place to post
this confession. If ever confronted about this in public I will deny it ever
happened an accuse the offender of being a liar.
--
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1962 to 1965 Mopar
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and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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--
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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