RE: Replacing Air Compressor Motor and Pump
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: Replacing Air Compressor Motor and Pump



The way I set my new compressor from Cummins up 15 years ago is I adjusted the drain to leak slightly all the time thus, draining moisture all the time.  I have a 60 gallon tank so in the big picture the leak goes virtually unnoticed and on humid days I get a puddle under the tank.  And yes here in Missouri it is humid all the time.  I still have not installed my inline dryer yet and have not experienced any moisture running through my tools as other friends do.  I also mounted my compressor in my basement right next to my fuse panel and ran a 1 inch line up into the garage (a lot less expensive than running 220 up) and split off from there presenting a friendlier dryer environment for my compressor to live and less cramped quarters in the garage.  No I don't have to run up and down the stairs to turn it on and off.  I just ran a piece of brake line about 8 feet long down into the basement with smooth curves and aligned it with the switch on the compressor.  I drilled a hole in the compressors switch and ran a piece of wire through the brake line coated with silicone grease, up to the garage and mounted a T handle, pull on, push off, from the garage!  As a side note I did have a vibration noise when the compressor was running.  To elevate that issue I took a piece of wood dowel rod drilled a hole in each end and gorilla glued it inline between the switch and end coming out of the brake line.  To this date the water that does drip out of the tank is clear and rust free.  So, I can only presume and hope it is virtually rust free internally.  Sorry I got long winded just thought I would put my 2¢ in.
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 11/10/2014 10:50:36 AM
Subject: RE: Replacing Air Compressor Motor and Pump
 

I have a fairly inexpensive 26 gallon Craftsman vertical oil-less compressor that works OK but would not be my first choice if I had to use it a lot.  Very noisy and cheap gauge.  However, one big improvement I made to it was to replace the drain cock with a ball valve similar to what is described in this link.  It works super. 

 

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/compressor/drain/ball_valve.htm

 

 

 

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 11:24 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx; dongallimore@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Replacing Air Compressor Motor and Pump

 

I bought a compressor from Harbor Freight.  It is not an oil-less model and it is still very loud.  Also I have doubts as to whether it produces the advertised capacity as it won't even come close to keeping up with my diegrinder.  It also calls for 30 wt. non-detergent oil.  So in the winter I have to use a heat gun to warm it up as the oil is too thick and it won't start, just pops the breaker.  It also developed a leak in the pressure switch, which I repaired and has held so far.

 

Paul L.

On Sunday, November 9, 2014 7:52:51 AM UTC-6, Donald Gallimore wrote:

My 5+ year old 60gal Craftsman oilless air compressor pump has thrown three set of rods in quick order (why?). Sears replacement pump/motor combo seems too expensive. 

 

So, I am looking for a source for a separate pump and compressor to retrofit to the tank. This is for my home garage. Mostly, the heaviest load I use it for are impact wrenches but I do have a sandblaster. I'm thinking 10 cfm at 90 psi will be enough.

 

I'm leery of Harbor Freight and was thinking of Northern Tools or Grainger. 

 

Any suggestions and pointers would be very much appreciated. 

 

Akron Don Gallimore

--

--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network