RE: Timing on New Engine?
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RE: Timing on New Engine?



Common theme from all contributors and step 1) in the manual- make sure it’s at TDC - firing stroke - both valves closed.  Then proceed......  If it’s “180 out” or anything else you will see it in the rotor location right away..........

 

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Richard Kinsley
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 8:48 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Timing on New Engine?

 

In this picture you see the dist in place without the intake. Notice the shaftat the bottom. There is a collar I installed to help keep the shaft from bouncing. Right below that is the intermediate shaft which is not visible. It is the only means of changing the dist orientation except for 180 degs changes. The shaft must be lifted and rotated slightly to change the dist placement. If you remove the dist and look down into the valley you can see the slot the dist sits in. It should be in a straight line with the front of the block on the driverside towards #1 cyl.. If not you use a screwdriver to turn the shaft counterclockwise gently as you use a magnet to lift it slightly. Then set the shaft back down in the direction that will position the slot properly. You will be moving the gear a tooth at a time or more as needed. This must be done with the #1 cyl at TDC on the firing stroke. The final dist position will depend on how you set the shaft into position. If the dist is too far towards the rear or front to get any movement for adjustment you can pull it and move the shaft as needed to accomplish this. The shaft itself is about 6" long with a hex on the bottom to drive the oil pump and a gear on top to engage the cam with the slot on it's top for the dist shaft to set into. Pretty easy actually but be sure you have the #1 cyl on TDC. that shaft is what you remove to insert another hex shaft on a drill for pre-oiling the engine before start-up.

 

On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 3:38 AM, ALIENVOICE via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

OK, Maybe we are getting above my level of competence (the Peter principle) here.  Can someone (off list if desired) send me information on the "intermediate shaft" and what it does, and how it would be something that would keep my poly for firing? 

 

If the distributor is properly installed (I am thinking it might be 180 off) how would the distributor shaft stop it from firing in time to start the engine, and what can be done to correct it?  I don't think it would be an issue of it being broken since the engine just came back from a fresh rebuild.

 

Larry

 

In a message dated 11/12/2014 10:29:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx writes:

It's the shaft that drives the oil pump off the cam and has a slot in top of it for the dist shaft to rest in. It is the cam drive mechanism for both the oil pump and dist. There is a heavy duty one made that is the preferred choice in that it has a beveled area near the pump drive that helps prevent breakage. They are known to break causing oil and timing issues.

On Nov 12, 2014 9:24 PM, "Robert Faunce" <bobsbelvedere@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi - please explain what you mean by the intermediate shaft.

On Nov 12, 2014 9:38 PM, "Richard Kinsley" <leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Very true. I forgot about the intermediate shaft. A long screw driver and a magnetic pick-up make it easy to adjust.

 

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Michael LeFevre <493mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Larry,

I didn't see any mention of the distributor intermediate shaft. I must be clocked properly with the cam gear to position your rotor properly.

Mike LeFevre

 

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 12:08 AM, ALIENVOICE via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I am finally trying to get my 318 poly engine started after a full rebuild, and am not sure that I have the distributor dialed in close enough to get it firing.  Definitely getting fuel and spark, as it has backfired through the carb and out the exhaust manifold (no exhaust on it right now, as the old exhaust was toast). 

 

Nice flame through the carb, and out the exhaust manifold, but no sign that it is going to start.  Tried to see if I could use the timing light, but could not find the timing tab (maybe they left it off or lost it?).  I can see the timing mark on the damper, but without a timing tab, doesn't seem to be much help.  Tried moving the distributor, but not really successful.  Might be 180 degrees out?

 

Engine is a newly-rebuilt 318 poly, new 4bbl Edelbrock Performance carb, factory iron intake/exhaust.

 

Thoughts?  Really wanted to get it going before the cold came through, but it's rolling into Ohio tonight.

 

Larry (Akron)

 

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Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies

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Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies

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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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