Re: Extra cooling fan question
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Re: Extra cooling fan question



4 blade fan to a 6 blade completely cured my city drive over heating.(68 Roadrunner 383 installed)   I also don't run an aggressive timing or a lean fuel ratio.  I am just old enough to have run big block mopars as daily drivers and don't remember any overheating problems from those days .( that includes a Superbird with a 440 6 barrel, which was notorious for overheating with the tiny air intake in the front)   Wonder why all the over heating problems now ??  Maybe the old radiators are just too mucked up ?  The reason I'm interested in this thread is that my radiator is old, been repaired several times, still leaks (just a little) and I figure I'll have to replace it in the near future.  Good info here.

Doug
63 Sport Fury ragtop.

On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 5:53 PM, George Parkinson <gwparkster@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I would try also using the radiator to cool the trans fluid.  I have towed a 30 ft. fifth wheel rv over 100000 miles with a Ram/Cummins w/auto trans.  I installed an inline fan assisted cooler to aid in trans cooling.  Bottom line, it helped some in extreme conditions, but if I hadn't also been using the radiator the aftermarket cooler would have failed!
Golden Lancer

On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 2:13 PM, dennis.1963ply <dennis.1963ply@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hello,

You bring up a very good point on thermostats.  The Milodon has a much larger opening that what you typically get at a parts house.  Here is some info copied from Milodon's site:


PERFORMANCE THERMOSTATS

High Flow Thermostat
#16400

HIGH FLOW THERMOSTATS
These High Flow Thermostats greatly aid the proper functioning of a high performance cooling system. They are engineered to warm the engine to a proper operating temperature without making it run hot enough to lose power. Also the "Balanced Sleeve" design is highly recommended for use with High Volume water pumps. With other thermostat designs, the increased flow generated by High Volume water pumps can actually attempt to hold the thermostat closed. The "Balanced Sleeve" design equals the pressure exerted on the thermostat allowing its operation to be solely regulated by coolant temperature. 

160° Thermostat - Chevy (All) and Ford (All except pre '67, 390-428)

16400 

180° Thermostat - Chevy (All) and Ford (All except pre '67, 390-428)

16401 

160° Thermostat - Chrysler (All) and Ford 390-428 (pre '67)

16405 

180° Thermostat - Chrysler (All) and Ford 390-428 (pre '67)

16406 

As for the temperature range of a thermostat, when the coolant temperature is above the setting of the thermostat the thermostat will be 100% open.  At that point it does not matter what temperature thermostat you have installed.   It is important to verify your temperature gauge, one of the IR guns work very well.  If in doubt about your thermostat put it on the stove in a pan of water.  Use a kitchen thermometer to check the water temperature when the thermostat is fully open.

I personally use the Milodon thermostats.

Dennis C.


On Saturday, February 14, 2015 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-7, Paul L. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-le wrote:
I have a similar setup to yours including a higher output water pump, except that I have a stock 2 core copper radiator, 4 blade fan, and no shroud.  When I bought the car it had an electric pusher fan.  I saw the same symptoms you describe.  The fan was on a switch so I could turn it off and on at will.  I found that it had absolutely no effect.  As my temps would creep up in city driving I could turn on the fan and they would just continue to creep up.  So I took mine off.  I'm with George in that I think it may have blocked airflow and made it worse.  
As purchased my 440 had stock heads & pistons.  Since then I have made a few mods to bump up the compression and therefore more heat.  The last machinist who worked on my engine is a Mopar guy and a serious drag racer.  He suggested running a 160* thermostat.  He said to try and run it just a little hotter than necessary to make sure the choke opens.  He was working on my engine because I had a detonation issue.  Stock C.I. 440 heads are prone to detonation due to the spark plug placement.  So keeping the engine as cool as practical pays benefits in preventing detonation problems.  
When I put the engine back in the car with the new 160* stat it overheated right away.  After a little trial and detective work I noticed that the new stat had an opening that was considerably smaller than my original 180* stat.  So with the old 180* stat installed everything was back to normal.  Note that this was just last month when we had a warm stretch of 40*-60* days.  It still wanted to get a little warm in city driving.  So before things get too hot this summer I'll be installing a 3 core aluminum radiator.  As noted in a thread on radiators last week the best performing radiators have a fin count of 14 - 16 per inch.  All of the folks in this forum who have gone this route have cured their overheating problem.  You don't have to hit me in the head more than a few times for good advice to sink in.   ;-)

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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