Re: Fw: Stroker getting better, but still struggling
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Fw: Stroker getting better, but still struggling



Distributor is modified for 8 degrees of mechanical advance.  Time at idle is 26 degrees.  34 degrees at 3,000 RPM.  No vacuum advance.

Thank you,

Jim

On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 5:00:15 PM UTC-4, 65Val wrote:

Jim...it should idle lower than that, edelbrock or not. Whats your inital timing set at?
 
 
 
Darwin/BC Canada
'67 Dart GT'vert - 273/904...hibernating
'65 Cdn Valiant Custom 100'vert - 225/A833...SOLD!
 

 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Stroker getting better, but still struggling

Vacuum was around 9 if I remember right.  Keep in mind I didn't get the idle down much below 1,200.

The Edlebrock's don't have power valves.  They use metering rods, instead.  It's the old AFB design...

Thank you,

Jim

On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 8:24:57 AM UTC-4, Enzo Cremasco wrote:
what is your vacuum and what size of power valve?

On Friday, May 15, 2015 10:48 PM, Richard Kinsley <leroar.k...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


The fuel pressure has to be no more than 6psi. I broke in leroar at probably 3k rpm and when I let it finally idle it started spurting fuel and died. With some rpm's it can handle the fuel but not at idle. 7.7 is definitely too much. I put on a pressure regulator and all is well. I used the Holley unit and do not run return line.
Rich Kinsley 64 Dodge Polara 4dr LeRoar 318 poly w/goodies
On May 15, 2015 2:18 PM, "JimJablonski" <groov...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks, Jason.  I will try that tomorrow - after getting some new plugs.  Arghh.

It is occurring right around 1,200 RPM.  Idles nice around 1,500 - 1,600 but I'm sure I can dial this beast in below that...

If you come up here I promise you will leave with a trunk full of your favorite adult beverage!!!



On Friday, May 15, 2015 at 3:02:33 PM UTC-4, Jason Rhoades wrote:
YOU MIGHT TRY SLIPPING THE HATS HALF OFF THE METERING RODS SO YOU CAN SEE THEM VISUALLY.  AND THAT WAY WATCH WHAT THEY ARE DOING
JASON
AT WHAT RPM DOES THIS THING GET NOTICBLY RICH?   I MEAN CAN YOU TELL IF AT 1200 RPM IT REALLY STARTS GOING RICH.  OR DOES IT JUST CHOKE UP AS YOU BRING IT DOWN FROM SAY 1500?  IF YOU CAN WATCH IN THE CARBS SEE IF YO NOTICE GAS DRIPPING INTO THE INTAKE AS ITS IDLEING.  IF THE FLOATS ARE RUNNING OVER YOU CAN SEE IT SOME TIMES.
PS.
HAHAHAHAH  SOUNDS LIKE A FUN PROJECT.  MAYBE I SHOULD COME UP FOR A VISIT ON A SATURDAY SOME DAY
 
From: 1962to19...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to19...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of JimJablonski
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 2:46 PM
To: 1962to19...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Stroker getting better, but still struggling
 
Hey there gang,
 
Don't know if you recall but I fired up my stroker build late last year and had a ton of issues.  Worked on it over the winter here and there and many of the kinks are gone.  The timing is spot on, the compression is awesome, I resealed the intake, etc.  The beast runs like a champ now - until it warms up and I try to bring the idle down for some carb adjustments.  When I do so, it loads up, rich, to a point where it fouls the plugs and stalls out.
 
As a reminder, I am running two Edelbrock 1405s on the CH-28, with the Lunati 63799 cam.  It's a 440 block that I stroked to 511.  I am using 452 heads that I cc'd, so I am just north of 12:1 compression.
 
Here's some current theories I am chasing:
 
- I am running an electric fuel pump with a return regulator.  With two different regulators I can't get the fuel pressure dialed below 7-ish PSI.  I am thinking I need a bigger return line to get it to dial back at the regulator./  The reason I am chasing this is I am hearing from multiple people that Edie's like very little pressure - like 5.5 PSI - so it's possible the fuel pressure is pushing past the needle and seat and thwoing off my float settings.
 
- Tomorrow I am going to change the step-up springs to a weaker set.  Another theory is that camshaft is producing such low vacuum that I am not keeping the metering rods down at idle
 
So does any of this makes sense?  Any other thoughts or ideas?
 
Thank you,
 
Jim
--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopa...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopa...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopa...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopa...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



Avast logo

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com


--
--
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network