Re: My Car's New Trick
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Re: My Car's New Trick



Bill,
 
This is incidental to specifically “troubleshooting” your current starting issues but knowing the fast evaporation rate of current fuels, I have installed a separate electric fuel pump “priming” switch under the dash of my 340 car to prime the system and thus fill the carb fuel bowls before starting the engine.  This method assures me the system is loaded with fuel and ready to fire and is extremely helpful for “quick starts” after my car sits for days or weeks at a time; the longer a vehicle sits between operation, the more opportunity for ethanol laced fuels to evaporate or cause other starting/running issues. 
I will be installing the same system on my Stroker Poly car when it is ready for the road.
 
Gary Pavlovich
 
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2016 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: My Car's New Trick
 
Ollie,would.you please email.me?bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx
 
Sent from my HTC One SV
 
----- Reply message -----
From: "Ollie" <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: My Car's New Trick
Date: Fri, May 6, 2016 09:20
 
One thing that has helped my vehicle a lot is a fuel pressure regulator. Installed between the pump and carb.
 
It keeps fuel pressure in the line even if it has not started in a week. Makes for instance starts.
Just a thought.
Ollie
From: 'Paul L. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-le' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2016 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: My Car's New Trick
 
Re-reading your original post you talked about it stumbling a lot and being hard to keep running after getting it restarted.  Did that change after installing the new fuel pump?  You also said the clear fuel filter was empty as soon as you shut it off and opened the hood.  What is the orientation of the filter?  Is it sloped down towards the carb, towards the fuel pump, or level?  Just wondering if the fuel in the filter is draining out one way or the other or evaporating out.  Seems like it wouldn't evaporate that quickly.  So either the fuel pump (old one) wasn't pumping like it should, maybe vapor locked or just a bad pump.  What about your fuel line coming from the tank?  Does it run close to hot exhaust?  One trick also is to make a heat shield for the mechanical pump.  I know Rich (LeRoar) did this on is poly. And I think there a pattern for it on the tech page.
One other thing to mention, a friend of mine who drives a 62 Chebbie went through a number of fuel pumps before he got a good one.  I think he was buying his at O'Reilly's.
Frustrating isn't it?  Best of luck.

Paul L.

On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-5, TopBanana wrote:
So I got the Coronet all back together from dialing back the converter and the first couple of short drives went well. Trans temp never gets above 175-180 and the car is very snappy.

Now on to the trick...drive it until warmed up, turn it off, and upon re-starting, it'll run for 30-45 seconds, then it dies. Crank it forever, stutter, repeat 6-7 times.........

When it finally fires, it's stumbling alot, then after it's running, it'll stumble some more while driving, as you are fighting to keep it running. After that, it's fine until you turn it off again. It also started the stumbling crap after sitting at a light for a few minutes yesterday.

When I got home tonight, I immediately popped the hood and my glass fuel filter was already empty.
 
The only thing I changed since last season was the power valve from a high-flow 6.5 to a standard flow 5.5. I haven't changed the idle, mixture screws, or anything on the carb.

My initial thoughts are the fuel pump took a dump so I'm picking up a new one tomorrow morning.

Carb is a QuickFuel 750 Slayer Series.
 
Any other thoughts

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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