Re: '63 Fury new shiny smile
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Re: '63 Fury new shiny smile



Sorry I forgot the link about Cut and Buff.  If you want to DIY this will help you.  But it should be enough to scare you into getting a pro to do it for you.  :)

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/paint-body/1210chp-right-way-to-cut-and-buff-paint/

But you can see the difference.  You can also have this done to an older car if it's not been done before, but you do run the risk of the clear being too thin and then it's a respray to get the car to look new again.  Find a pro and let them do their thang.  

Eric

On Wed, Jul 27, 2016 at 10:27 PM, Eric Sturgis <ericsturgis@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Well Nick they did very good work.  I hope when I grow up I can have nice toys like yours. ;)  

Christopher, On a new paint car I would have your car "cut and buffed"  The "cut" is to make a perfectly smooth surface by cutting a very thin layer of the paint off (wet sanding) and the "buff" is the polish that "cut" paint so it shines so it looks like a black deep lake you could dive into.  If you have not done this before I'd find somebody that is a PRO and have it done.  It takes the right person with the right skills to get your paint perfect.  It will take off any orange peel, or small imperfection in the paint and make a big difference.  I know how to do it and I would not do it to a car I just had painted, I'd make my local polisher guy do it, Eric Hayes.  A good polisher will make the difference from a new paint job to a show car shine.  

Lyle, I've used clay bars on everything (nearly) and it's pretty easy to do but it's an all day kind of thing and your will get a work out.  You will be amazed at the results.  

1. Start by washing the car with something like Dawn dish soap.  You want to use something like Dawn as it will strip the wax and lots of the road oils off the car.  The cleaner you can get the paint before you start the better.  Use lots of water too.  You will see why in a bit.  Some soft brushes to get between the chrome and paint will help too.  After it's all wash you can use the clay bar (any brand will work the same Meguiars, Mothers, Turtle Wax (I have this one))  The Mothers one comes in a kit with a spray to use with the clay bar.  You can buy your favorite spray wax and ANY clay bar for cars if you want to save some money.  

Helpful hint.... if you get the black road tar or bug splater on your car (we get it here in WA state a lot) you can use Lacquer Thinner and a soft cloth to take it off with no harm to your car paint or glass or bumpers.  If you are worried test the lacquer thinner on a panel that won't show, like inside the trunk lid or a door jam...I've never seen it harm a car paint, even my 1962 it took all the marks off the paint no problems. 

2. Do this all in the shade (should have said before)  Now the fun begins.  Pick a place to start, I start at the front drivers fender. I also get a folding chair so I can sit as I do the sides.  You want to spray the spray wax of if you bought the kit from Mothers their spray and rub the clay over the paint.  You want to turn the clay bar over and over as you work and spray the stuff all the time so the clay won't stick.  If the clay sticks use more spray and the bar and it will come off don't worry.  IF you pick up a hard bit of dirt or drop you clay bar on the ground take ALL THE BITS, DIRT AND ROCKS and CLAY that got the grit in it off,  cut it off and throw that part away.  You don't want to scratch your paint.  If you are not sure you got it all, throw the whole bar away and use a new one.  A clay bar will last until it get full of dirt.  You fold and turn the bar after you do each small section....just like 2-3 feet at a time.  

3. Keep working the clay bar in small part at a time.  It will take all day to do your car.  After it's done look and see how dirty your clay bar is.  Remember you washed your car really really well before you started, this is all the dirt that is in the paint you can't really see.  Feel how smooth the paint is after it's done.  So different.  OK now give it one more bath with the Dawn dish soap, and dry with your favorite soft cloths.  

4.  Now your car is ready to remove any scratches and then wax and protect your paint.  If I see ANY fine scratches in my paint (one car was will put them in it) I use Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Polish or your favorite swirl and fine scratch remover.  You will have to go over the whole car to get the right shine.  If your car has no scratches you can skip this step.  The next step is your favorite wax.  Spray wax will not last or protect, I use either a paste or liquid.  I have a carnauba wax that I bought a car show for show cars that has an amazing shine to it, but ANY thing you like for a "wax" will do.  They also have some light liquid products for that ultra shine to use after you wax your car.  Something like Meguiar Ultimate Liquid Wax or anything else that will give your car the "wet" look.  Try different spay on waxes as once your have waxed the car the rest is just to make it sparkle.

Here is a quick video on how to do it.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeTfU_aUaJk 

Eric

On Wed, Jul 27, 2016 at 5:38 PM, Christopher Kroncke <g2c808@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I second that, I need to either wet sand my clear coat , Or ? wondering what are my options. My first new paint job , 5 coats black, 7 coats clear. By the way, Beautiful 63. Only to bad not a Sport Fury


On Tuesday, July 26, 2016 at 2:43:49 PM UTC-10, FuryUs63 wrote:
Look at her new shiny smile thanks to Pro-One Polishing. Just installed 8 pieces, grill headlight doors, grill extensions, grill pan, all cleaned & stripped, then bright dip anodized. All valleys painted satin black, and turn signal bezels polished to a luster. The gravel pan came back from the body after many years of road rash with new paint & clear.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63 

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
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