Re: MAD electrical upgrade
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Re: MAD electrical upgrade



Hello,

If you are using the stock wiring harness either new or the one you have you can do two simple things to improve your wiring when removing the ammeter:

Take the two wires off of the back of the ammeter and either use a solder butt splice or securely bolt them together. 

Run a new wire from your alternator output to the big stud on the starter relay with a fusible link per the MADD drawing. (a fuse is better but hard to hide)

This takes all of the charging current from the alternator off of the bulkhead connector and directs it directly to the battery.

The terminals in the bulkhead connector that previously received power from the alternator and sent it back to the battery now just supply power to the dash.

The other very good upgrade you can do to your wiring is to install relays for the headlamps.  Currently power is supplied to them from the light switch through the bulkhead connector.  This does not involve any changes to the existing wiring except at the headlamps where you will want to hide the relays and it will require an additional wire back to a good 12 volt source like the large stud on the starter relay.

A google search will result in many sources for relay kits, here are a couple:

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

Take Care
Dennis



On Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 10:25:41 AM UTC-7, Mark Evans wrote:
Guys,
I am getting confused with all this good advice.
I am about to begin assembly of my dash. I am building a street show car that I want to keep looking original in the engine bay.
I would like to upgrade to make my wiring to the best safe system which is more important to me than originality. 
It is a frame off restoration with all new parts or refurbished originals. What is the best way to wire my dash.
I do not plan to use the
MAD System unless otherwise convinced.
I did plan to convert to a voltmeter but I'm wondering if this is still a good idea?
What is the safest best way to wire behind a dash and The bulkhead connector. I do not plan on any major aftermarket accessories
Mark 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2017, at 1:21 AM, Bob Crockett <64ra...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Absolutely correct, Richard!  However, if one cleans up the bulkhead connector and the associated wiring and doesn't add extra accessories downstream from the ammeter, there is a functional gauge in that hole in the instrument cluster.  Then, if the owner likes the looks of an add on volt meter by all means add one.  I like to say that it's that person's car, their money, and their choices.  If the owner wants to hang a bunch of extra accessories downstream from the ammeter, my previous sentence still applies.  Overloading the circuits that were designed before high power amplifiers, extra lighting and whatever else the owner wishes will likely cause problems, but it's their choice.  My choice is to add those extra current loads directly from the battery circuit with proper fuses or breakers and avoid overloading the ammeter circuit with them.  Others may choose to do otherwise, and I wish them luck.

BC


On 8/14/2017 9:14 PM, Richard Kinsley wrote:
To me it just doesn't make sense to put the load thru that meter. A volt meter is not gonna be a potential disaster. 

On 14 Aug 2017 9:07 pm, <glpav...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
BC,
 
No problem.  As you described the state of fifty year old degradation to our systems in conjunction with “power adders” a refurbishing or correction is needed.
Gary P.
 
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: MAD electrical upgrade
 

Gary, not to start an argument, but I take issue with your last sentence, particularly the word "vital".  Lots of our classic MOPARS, as they approach the half century mark suffer from degradation of electrical connections and the ammeter circuit through the dash board is especially problematic.  AS DESIGNED that circuit worked fine, but when the bulkhead connector gets corroded, problems begin.  This is made worse with the addition of high power amplifiers, extra lighting and other "stuff" downstream from the ammeter.

Ma MOPAR recognized the potential for problems in some high current installations in Taxis, Police Cars, and similar vehicles.  I've read that those vehicles had the ammeter wiring brought through the firewall through a separate grommeted hole, bypassing the bulkhead connector entirely.  Cleaning and refurbishing the bulkhead connector to provide clean tight connections, perhaps rerouting the ammeter wiring as above, and not hanging extra accessories downstream from the ammeter will avoid the problems common to neglected systems.  It also avoids having a dead, useless gauge in your dash and an ugly add-on voltmeter.

BC

 

at 017 3:36 PM, glpav...@xxxxxxx wrote:
I am using MAD’s electrical products and wiring diagrams for trunk mounted battery install w/remote solenoid, two forward power distribution terminals...etc...and I have modified some of his instructions to fit my Plymouth/Mopar needs.  Very good tutorial and excellent products.  Bypassing/not using the AMP meter in/on the dash is vital to prevent current drop and excess voltage/amperage from burning dash wires and degrading your system.
Gary P.
 
 
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: MAD electrical upgrade
 
I've used Mad's electrical wiring system for the last 3 cars I've built.  His designs are sound and simplify things quite a bit.  The only drawback on a "restoration" is that if you go with Mad's wiring system you won't have "Mopar" designed wiring.... which some purists may find unacceptable.  As far as I'm concerned... his designs are easier to understand, safer, and simpler to install (providing you're not using an expensive per-manufactured replacement wiring harness).

Bill

On Saturday, August 12, 2017 at 2:56:18 AM UTC-5, neal wrote:
Has anybody heard of the MAD electrical upgrade  to bypass factory ammeter. (www.madelectrical.com)  . They have numerous articles but this one caught my eye.  Basically running juice from alternator directly to starter relay instead of  through firewall connector and all up through the dash. You fuse the thick red and black wires where factory ammeter used to sit. You still need this loop to feed ignition switch, etc. This loop is also attached to starter relay. They also by pass the fragile firewall connector for these two wires.  Supposed to reduce risk of melt down greatly.  And of course then you need to install an aftermarket voltmeter in place of the now absent factory ammeter..
MAD isn't  just Mopar  but this upgrade is specifically  for Mopar. They do it on a 79 Dodge truck but it should work on the older stuff too.
    neal
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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