RE: 65 Heater Control Valve
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RE: 65 Heater Control Valve



Hey thats the info i really wanted!!  Thanks!  I may go ahead and chenge the original carpet out its pretty tattered. And glycol soaked  i need to tell wife. Where to get my christmas gifts from. Lol!!
I unhooked the heater hoses back in march or april
Thanks
Jason
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From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2017 6:36:06 PM
To: 62-65 Mopar List
Subject: RE: 65 Heater Control Valve
 
The main reason to pull the drivers seat is to crawl under the dash to pop the heater control cable retainer & cable end off the heater control valve. Then you need to remove (2) wiring connected off the same side of the box, right above the valve.

Pass side...removing the seat and laying flat on your back to pull the fresh air tube, fan, box mounting bolt, and defrost tubes is also much easier.

Also, do yourself a favor. Drain the coolant down, disconnect the heater hoses from the engine, and blow the coolant out of the core. This will reduce the risk of dumping coolant on your carpet. 

On Nov 27, 2017 1:52 PM, "Jason Rhoades" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks Bill!!  This helps a bunch  yes pictures would be awesome!!

jason

 

From: 1962to1965mopars@googlegroups.com [mailto:1962to1965mopars@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill M
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2017 1:47 PM
To: 62-65 Mopar List <1962to1965mopars@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Heater Control Valve

 

Jason,

 

I can take pics tonight if you want.

 

You do NOT have to take the seats out, but unless you are a young contortionist, seat removal definitely helps!

 

Per the FSM, you do not have to remove the console. I took mine out just to give myself a little more room.

 

Our setup is a bit odd. The heater control valve inserts into the heater core and creates the 2nd water line port. The weak point of the system seems to be the o-ring that goes around the heater control valve.

 

Once you get it out, it's really simple and straight forward. If you haven't been into it before, take LOTS of pictures just in case. I got lucky and found a complete heater box in a 63 Polara in a local u-pull-it, so I have an unmolested model to go by.

 

The heater core is a unique beast. Not sure who to goto these days for re-coring these units. I'm sure someone will ring on on it.





Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot Hack

 

On Sun, Nov 26, 2017 at 9:00 PM, Jason Rhoades <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Anyone have a diagrams 

Mine sprung a leak. Internally. And i am curious how best to remove it.  I have a coronet 500 with console.  Looks like seats and consol have to come out?

Thanks

Jason Rhoades


From: 1962to1965mopars@googlegroups.com <1962to1965mopars@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2017 8:42:59 PM
To: 62-65 Mopar List
Subject: Re: 65 Heater Control Valve

 

Yeah...we double checked hose routing. It just would not flow.  Got only some minor discolored water when I flushed the core after I got it out of the car, and the valve seems clean...just sticking.

 

On Nov 26, 2017 8:08 PM, "Daniel Davids" <ddavids@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Be sure to attach the hoses correctly when you reinstall the valve in your car, Bill.

 

We were ready to send our valve out for overhaul when local Mopar guru Jeff Carter advised we check the hose routing.

Sure enough, someone had hooked the heater hoses up backwards. We swapped them to the correct position and the heater core began putting out copious amounts of heat at full tilt.

On our 64 Dodge, the correct hose hookup is such that it appears the hoses cross each other. Because this can look odd to the eye when gazing at the engine compartment, it leads people into hooking them up the wrong way. That’s my theory, anyway, since I’m the one who likely made the mistake when I installed new hoses awhile back.

 

Dan Davids

Seattle

 

 

 

On Nov 26, 2017, at 2:53 PM, NICHOLAS TIBERIO <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

Bill,

 

Last year I rebuilt the heater in my '62 Fury. At the same time I sent my heater control valve out to be rebuilt and was very satisfied with the work.

 

Joe Hudacek, 715-392-6169, the cost was about $90. for the rebuild & postage. One day turn around and he paid the return postage. The valve came back like new. The only negative thing was the new O-ring provided was the right ID but too large OD. I picked up an assorted O-ring package at Auto Zone for a few bucks and the right one was there.

 

Nick Tiberio

FuryUs63

 

 

On November 26, 2017 at 2:59 PM Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

So I think I finally determined is that my problem with no heat was due to a sticking heater control valve. When I took it out of the car, I noticed it would just lock in a closed position for an indeterminate length of time and then pop open.

 

I have two other heater control valves that seem to operate fine, but when they're in the closed position, they seem to leak just a little tiny bit when I blow on the valve.

 

I'm trying to decide if this bit of blow by would be acceptable, or should I try and Source in new rebuilt one? Unfortunately a rebuilt one would be pricey.

 

Thoughts?

 

Bill M 

 

 

 

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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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