|Vote for The Forward Look Network on the Mopar Top 100 Sites|
From: Daven Anderson
Date: January 14, 2001
There are many posts down there in the 'archived' section that are relevant to such a swap. I should know,as the owner of a 440/front disc brake '60 Ply. wagon,I posted a lot on there myself!
The AAJ disc brake kit would be the easiest. See for yourself by clicking on this link http://www.artistic-design.com/aaj.htm
Swapping in later C-body disc brakes requires modifications,but will give you 12" rotors (which you may find to be worth the extra effort in a higher-powered than stock 440 car). Even the 11" AAJ rotors would still beat the drums for sure!
Swapping in a complete later C-body 8¾" rear axle is highly recommended. The tapered axle shafts in the 57-64 8¾" rear ends are weaker than the straight axle shafts of 65-73,and they have to be removed to remove the brake drums. In the worst cases the heat of the brake drum literally welds the shaft end to the drum over time and removal requires heating to red hot or even a cutting torch! AND the C-body rear brakes have built-in parking brakes,which saves weight and are safer than the original driveshaft parking brake.
The best overall transmission to use would be the 62-64 B-engine 727,which will take all the 440's power and shift with the original Torqueflite 1957-58 dashboard pushbutton assembly (one will easily swap into your car if your car doesn't have it already). The 1962 [only] Chrysler B-727 even has a driveshaft parking brake assembly like the 57-61 cast iron '413' Torqueflite,which would be the easiest 'bolt-on' solution for a parking brake. Converting the cable to work the C-body rear service brakes is the best idea,but it is more complicated.
Incidentally,you have to use a 62-up transmission application with your 440,as I covered in several posts detailing how the crankshaft flange was changed in ALL Mopar V8's in the 1962 model year. You could even use a brand new B-727 from Mopar Performance,but that would need a floorshifter.
B-engine B-body headers basically work. They will usually need slight bending in places,but that's also frequently true even in their 'intended' application.
Motor mounts would use the 58-59 B-engine mounts, available from Kanter Auto Parts and others. They may have to be moved slightly from the exact factory mounting points depending on the transmission/driveshaft/exhaust/oilpan/etc. ['usual' swap variables] The 60-up mounts are totally different than the 58-59 in design (The 58-59 are 'cans',the 60-61 are 'biscuits'),so make sure you get 58-59 design mounts.
There you have it,a very condensed overview of the topics of my posts.....