"Make-Up" your Car!
sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 12:16 PM (#156081)
Subject: "Make-Up" your Car!


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In this single thread I will give in steps some hints to get a nicer outfit of your car, as I did on my 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible, useful also for other FWL-Cars (may-be already applied by others).

Human Ladies look mostly more attractive when some personal features are accentuated. The same will happen with your car when restoring and invest a little effort (not money) in the outfit.

First I present a general picture of the Interior.

 

 

 





(DSC00156L.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00156L.jpg (118KB - 417 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 12:46 PM (#156085 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Steering Wheel: (this is also an answer to "Steering Wheel Restoration")

The Steering Wheel is the "first" Interface to your car. It's mostly the first item you see when looking inside a car. Thus, the color should match the Interior, give a pleasant feeling when steering, look handsome and keep these attributes. Even with a broken Steering Wheel this can be acchieved easily.

- Fill the broken parts with a two Component resine (the stability is given by the iron core).

- take a rest of your Upholstery Material (or similar) and cover it with. You can bond with contact adhesive or cord it, the splice being in the rear side of the Stering Wheel (as shown in the picture). 





(DSC00156 Steering Wheel.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00156 Steering Wheel.jpg (94KB - 395 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 1:23 PM (#156089 - in reply to #156085)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Horn Ring: Fill the cavities in black, other surfaces and items with the appropriate colors. For this and the emblems I used Standard Colors (RAL3002 / RAL5010) to have them available in the same tone at anytime. A Brillant Color keeps better dustfree. First I spray the Color in a small can and then apply it with a fine brush, and after some minutes clean arround with a solvent wetted cloth.


Edited by sermey 2008-12-19 1:31 PM




(DSC00156 Horn Ring 1.jpg)



(DSC00156 Horn Ring 2.jpg)



(DSC01933 RAL Colors.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00156 Horn Ring 1.jpg (116KB - 454 downloads)
Attachments DSC00156 Horn Ring 2.jpg (114KB - 399 downloads)
Attachments DSC01933 RAL Colors.jpg (50KB - 428 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 3:41 PM (#156105 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Gauges / Clock / Radio: The Needles of the Gauges and of the Radio got a bright Red applying NEON Fluorescent Color. Again, sprayed in a small can and using a small brush. Even at lower light the Needles are good visible.


Edited by sermey 2008-12-19 4:39 PM




(DSC00156 Needles.jpg)



(DSC01935 Red NEON Color.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00156 Needles.jpg (91KB - 404 downloads)
Attachments DSC01935 Red NEON Color.jpg (46KB - 386 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 4:07 PM (#156110 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Mirror-Matic: No visible Cable from the Mirror-Matic to the Dashboard. Drill a duct inside the Stand (about 3.5mm) and use a high flexible isolated wire.

(to know: Mirror-Matic is always ON. The OFF Switch just interrupts the Control Signal.  I have a separate OFF Switch under the Dashboard to save Tube Life and Current)





(DSC00156 Stand MirrorMatic.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00156 Stand MirrorMatic.jpg (70KB - 418 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 4:24 PM (#156113 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Door Handles: All black painted inside the Cavity until 1.5mm to the border. The upper face simply stick an adhesive Gold Foil (in Office Shop). The upper border can easily be cut after sticking by using a small blade. At this time I didn't had the Golden Coating, but on a plane surface this works excellent (already 10 years old!). Of course you may use your preferred Color.




(DSC00028 Door Handles.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00028 Door Handles.jpg (88KB - 435 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2008-12-19 4:27 PM (#156114 - in reply to #156110)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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The Mirrormatic shall be connected to the H terminal on the light switch Serge - that means that it's only on when you run with the lights on.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 4:29 PM (#156116 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Side Mouldings: Again, filled with Brillant Black Color.





(DSC00026 Side Moulding 1.jpg)



(DSC00026 Side Moulding 2.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00026 Side Moulding 1.jpg (96KB - 416 downloads)
Attachments DSC00026 Side Moulding 2.jpg (98KB - 422 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 4:36 PM (#156117 - in reply to #156114)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Swen answered:The Mirrormatic shall be connected to the H terminal on the light switch Serge - that means that it's only on when you run with the lights on.

That's correct. May-be my Current-Source is still from there. But at lights ON the Tube is always ON even when not using.

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wizard
Posted 2008-12-19 4:59 PM (#156120 - in reply to #156117)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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That correct Serge - then in many countries dipped beam during daytime is a must, so you've got a point with your extra switch!
I like your styling tips - I can see many discrete applications also on the '60 Chryslers.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-19 6:03 PM (#156123 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Arm Rests: Originally the Arm Rests have been black and I coated them accordingly.  Later I found white  with the same Upholstery Material looks "gentler" and I coated them again over the black coating (see picture). The problem is that the coating has to go around curves and corners. I applied on both sides Contact Glue. Usually must wait till dry and then apply. In this case put enough Contact Glue and then put directly together. Now the coating getting softer you can move, stretch and pull the coating around the corners removing all plyings. Then fix all around with Masking Tape and let it be for a week.

Recently I purchased in eBay a pair of Arm Rests in black as "Original Reserve". I couldn't see on the Pics and I didn't know, this was an older, one piece Arm Rest in Rubber Material. This ones cannot be coated partially without seeing the abrupt cut.

The all unicolor, white or another color, gives a harmonic impression of the Interior. The Arm Rests, the Steering Wheel, as the Door Panels, and when a Convertible also the Top Cover, all contribute to an outstanding Outfit.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-19 6:26 PM




(DSC00154 Arm Rests 1.jpg)



(DSC00154 Arm Rest 2.jpg)



(DSC01941 Arm Rest.jpg)



(DSC01945L.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00154 Arm Rests 1.jpg (98KB - 409 downloads)
Attachments DSC00154 Arm Rest 2.jpg (75KB - 425 downloads)
Attachments DSC01941 Arm Rest.jpg (82KB - 379 downloads)
Attachments DSC01945L.jpg (61KB - 400 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-20 3:47 AM (#156172 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dashboard: My Dashboard was broken and hardened, due to age and exposure to sun. There was no chance to repair it, neither I found a source for a replacement. As the Arm Rests, I coated all the surface in black directly on the Metal after removing all the previous stuff. So, it will never brake again. I did a tool to burn in the designed lines, without satisfying results. I know this is not correct, but done perfectly and the best I could do at this time. Today there are best repros available in Sweden.

Can just say: my solution is for free!



Edited by sermey 2008-12-20 3:50 AM




(DSC00156 Dashboard.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00156 Dashboard.jpg (75KB - 407 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-20 6:44 AM (#156175 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Sill Plates: A Make-Up on the Sill Plates accentuates the Emblems and gives an added Value to this items, using the same Colors as already used. But first the Sill Plates have to be metal-brushed and galvanic anodized (elox). On the inner Side I pushed up a Profile, available in Office Shops and beeing used for binding or hanging big Pictures, available in lenght of 1m and in different colors, here in black to get a straight and rounded edge. Today there are very nice Reproductions available in Sweden, at the time not disposable. As far I saw not painted.

Can say again: This way is for free and looks nice!



Edited by sermey 2008-12-20 7:03 AM




(DSC01946 Sill Plate 1.jpg)



(DSC01946 Sill Plate 2.jpg)



(DSC01949 Inner Border.jpg)



(DSC01952 View Inside.jpg)



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Attachments DSC01946 Sill Plate 1.jpg (81KB - 406 downloads)
Attachments DSC01946 Sill Plate 2.jpg (60KB - 397 downloads)
Attachments DSC01949 Inner Border.jpg (70KB - 380 downloads)
Attachments DSC01952 View Inside.jpg (59KB - 394 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2008-12-20 8:46 AM (#156180 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Lots of nice tips without spending a fortune, thanks for sharing Serge!
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catman
Posted 2008-12-20 5:37 PM (#156223 - in reply to #156175)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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sermey - 2008-12-20 6:44 AM

Sill Plates: Today there are very nice Reproductions available in Sweden, at the time not disposable. As far I saw not painted.




Where can we get them? Do they make them for sedan models?
Any web site?
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-21 5:46 AM (#156267 - in reply to #156223)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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catman asked: Where can we get them? Do they make them for sedan models?

Kent in Sweden (des5859) is dealing wth this parts and can answer your question.

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sermey
Posted 2008-12-24 5:42 PM (#156647 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Knobs: Black Shadow on Panel Knobs. Here the optical difference shown on two Lighters (my second Spare Part). Also nice on round Knobs, outside around.


Edited by sermey 2008-12-24 5:46 PM




(DSC02019LL.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02019LL.jpg (61KB - 426 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 5:24 AM (#156679 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Upholstery: I don't know if my Upholtery of my car was Original. It looked, as many other Interiors, as "hooked bags". I took the Promotional Picture (Convertible with Swivel Seats) and designed it accordingly in CAD for the "upholstery Man" telling him, I wanted a good visible feed in, as in the promotional picture. He did a perfect Job and now it's like original. This coulds also be done with any pre-manufactured Upholsteries. See at the diffference!


Edited by sermey 2008-12-25 5:41 AM




(Uphosltery old.jpg)



(OR Upholstery 2.jpg)



(DSC00154Upholstery 3.jpg)



(DSC02021 Upholstery DesignL .jpg)



(2008-04-27 SM Interior copy.jpg)



(DSC00210 Rear Seats L.jpg)



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Attachments Uphosltery old.jpg (39KB - 440 downloads)
Attachments OR Upholstery 2.jpg (94KB - 419 downloads)
Attachments DSC00154Upholstery 3.jpg (83KB - 395 downloads)
Attachments DSC02021 Upholstery DesignL .jpg (90KB - 434 downloads)
Attachments 2008-04-27 SM Interior copy.jpg (94KB - 433 downloads)
Attachments DSC00210 Rear Seats L.jpg (82KB - 392 downloads)
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345 DeSoto
Posted 2008-12-25 8:56 AM (#156685 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Absolutely STUNNING car!...
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Bart_59_Dodge
Posted 2008-12-25 9:07 AM (#156688 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Is your CAD available to others for the Custom Royal interior ? ...and does that also include the inner / door pannels. Your car is outstanding.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 12:57 PM (#156712 - in reply to #156688)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Bart_59_Dodge - 2008-12-25 3:07 PM Is your CAD available to others for the Custom Royal interior ? ...and does that also include the inner / door pannels. Your car is outstanding.

Bart, I put it here for you and all the other Dodge 59 Owners of FLK.Net. It was not an easy Job to get this from Original Promotional Pictures. Just make a zoomed Printout of the PDF-File, and you have the exact countours as used for my Upholstery. I didn't made any door panels, I furnished the original ones with comments.

As you can see on the upper picture taken from the PC-Display: Having only a A4-Plotter at this time (10 years ago), I divided the layout in many A4- Sheets and then stuck them together to get the Original size in one (about 10 A4-sheets per Seat).

- SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2008-12-25 1:11 PM




(Dodge 59 Upholstery L.jpg)



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Attachments Dodge 59 Upholstery L.jpg (114KB - 390 downloads)
Attachments Dodge 59 Upholstery.pdf (41KB - 405 downloads)
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Bart_59_Dodge
Posted 2008-12-25 1:32 PM (#156713 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Serge,
Is there any chance you have the CAD in a DWG or similar format ?
I have autocad and other CAD software at work available to me.

I could probably open up the file in its native format. It would be more functional as well.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 1:47 PM (#156715 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Hood: Correctly centering the Hood without damaging the Edges was a big issue, the disposable gap on my car beeing about only 0.06* for each side. A solution for a precise and durable positioning was needed.

On the rear end, the Hood was too low, when correctly adjusted at the corners.  I mounted 4 rubber bumpers, modified to the needed height,  left and right corner one, the other two according the picture. Now the edge from one corner to the other is and stay parallel in height.

On each side of the Hood I put a Round-Head Screw, adjusting the height for exact centering with washers. To assure a good and tight fixing the original centering rubber should be squeezed as shown in the picture. Now the Hood is exact centered all around, no cracked edges and no vibrations of the hood - a perfect fitting even at very small gaps.

 

 



Edited by sermey 2008-12-25 2:04 PM




(DSC02023L Hood rear before.jpg)



(DSC02037L Hood rear after.jpg)



(DSC02036L Positioner Hood Rear.jpg)



(DSC02038L Center Positioners.jpg)



(DSC02040L Positioner Sizes.jpg)



(DSC02024l Hood Gap Left.jpg)



(DSC02025L Hood Gap Right.jpg)



(DSC02033L Positioner Left.jpg)



(DSC02032L Hood Rubber Left.jpg)



(DSC02042L Final Result.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02023L Hood rear before.jpg (54KB - 404 downloads)
Attachments DSC02037L Hood rear after.jpg (48KB - 401 downloads)
Attachments DSC02036L Positioner Hood Rear.jpg (37KB - 447 downloads)
Attachments DSC02038L Center Positioners.jpg (36KB - 405 downloads)
Attachments DSC02040L Positioner Sizes.jpg (36KB - 420 downloads)
Attachments DSC02024l Hood Gap Left.jpg (65KB - 456 downloads)
Attachments DSC02025L Hood Gap Right.jpg (54KB - 393 downloads)
Attachments DSC02033L Positioner Left.jpg (60KB - 412 downloads)
Attachments DSC02032L Hood Rubber Left.jpg (53KB - 414 downloads)
Attachments DSC02042L Final Result.jpg (62KB - 413 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 4:19 PM (#156728 - in reply to #156110)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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sermey - 2008-12-19 10:07 PM

Mirror-Matic: No visible Cable from the Mirror-Matic to the Dashboard. Drill a duct inside the Stand (about 3.5mm) and use a high flexible isolated wire.

(to know: Mirror-Matic is always ON. The OFF Switch just interrupts the Control Signal.  I have a separate OFF Switch under the Dashboard to save Tube Life and Current)

Another View of the Stand. Is this Mount / Foot as Original?





(DSC02022L Stand Mirror-Matic.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02022L Stand Mirror-Matic.jpg (78KB - 407 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-26 12:12 PM (#156794 - in reply to #156223)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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catman - 2008-12-20 11:37 PM
sermey - 2008-12-20 6:44 AM

Sill Plates: Today there are very nice Reproductions available in Sweden, at the time not disposable. As far I saw not painted.

 

Where can we get them? Do they make them for sedan models? Any web site?

I just spoke to Jan Fridberg in Sweden. He manufactures Dual Air Cleaners and Sill Plates in Aluminium in a high Quality. His direct contact:

janfridberg@hotmail.com

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sermey
Posted 2008-12-26 4:32 PM (#156812 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear Lamps: Theses Golden "Eye-Lines" have already attracted the attention of many people, using the same golden Foil as on the Door Handles. For a Dual Tone Car the corresponding Color would match even better - and it can be removed and redone instantly, without any chemical or disassembly. Print-out the PDF-File on A4 Sticking-Sheet (will be 1:1), then stick one sample on the Color Foil (color-Side) and cut-out around accordingly. Before applying fold the sample in the center for best positioning, remove the protecting layer, and at the end the sticked sample. Good News for Dodge 59 Owners?

(If your Foil is heat-resistent (Laser Printer!) you not need a Sticking-Sheet and can print directly on the protecting layer of the Foil  Check first!)

Later on I will put another "Rear Lamps" talking on the Light.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-26 4:52 PM




(DSC00035 DODGE59 Rear Lamp .jpg)



(DSC00200L Rear Lamps.jpg)



(Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil copy.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00035 DODGE59 Rear Lamp .jpg (47KB - 416 downloads)
Attachments DSC00200L Rear Lamps.jpg (76KB - 423 downloads)
Attachments Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil copy.jpg (82KB - 406 downloads)
Attachments Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil.pdf (42KB - 403 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-27 12:21 PM (#156931 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Screws 1: "No rusty Scews anymore!" I whished and decided to use only stainless (rustfree, 18/8) Screws where not excessive Stability is required. Most Platings (zinc, chrome, nickel, promat, etc.) on iron/steel Screws are not a Guarantee for no rust in a Temperature, Acid and all Weather exposed Ambient. The Rust is programmed as soon the Plating is damaged, what already may happen when you use them the first time. On a white painted Car as mine, any rusty Water will left visible Tracks. The stainless Screws are much more solid than standard Screws. They can be modified in Lenght and Head-Shape as you need or like it, and finally be polished, as shown when just having simple Tools disposable. Important for a nice rounded Result: the Screw and the Tool must turn in a high Speed and in 90deg Direction each to other.

The first Picture shows various Screws with polished Heads I used for my Car: Row3/5 Arm Rests, Row3/6 over the Head Lamps Dodge59,  Row2/6 Door Latch. Mostly used on FWL-Cars  Row 3/8-9 for Interior and Mirrors.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-27 3:26 PM




(DSC02045 Screw Types.jpg)



(DSC02054L Polishing Tools.jpg)



(DSC02060L Resizing Head.jpg)



(DSC02057L Polishing Head.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02045 Screw Types.jpg (108KB - 436 downloads)
Attachments DSC02054L Polishing Tools.jpg (83KB - 384 downloads)
Attachments DSC02060L Resizing Head.jpg (53KB - 412 downloads)
Attachments DSC02057L Polishing Head.jpg (73KB - 377 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2008-12-27 12:51 PM (#156934 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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I use the same method as Serge and I can confirm the good result obtained by using a drilling machine, mounting the object in the mandrel, running high speed in 90 degree angle agains the polish dish - stainless steel comes to mirror shine.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 6:45 AM (#157216 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Hoses: There are many ways to get nice Hoses, using various Materials and Colors. The simplest is just to have stainless/rustfree Clamps and polish them as done with the Screws. See the difference standard - stainless.

You can invest a fortune for the Hoses using sophisticated anodized Aluminium Ends and silver metallic Hose Coats, instead of black non-metal as I used. This black Coat keep its appearance, doesn't get mat or show any black oily Tracks. It is not expensive, easy to assemble and gives a discreet Look. There are different Sizes availabe as shown in the Picture. Only the Radiator End Covers I had to make with a Rest of the stainless Exhaust Tube, because not found (cut and polish!). After first mounting the hose and then the Coat, the black adhesive Tape around is for pre-fixing and avoiding possible damage by the Clamps. The Chrome Hose End Covers comes over the Clamp, leaving the Screw and End outside. The Clamp can be re-tighten at any time without removing any Part.





(DSC02124L Vacuum Hose.jpg)



(DSC02122L Radiator Hose.jpg)



(DSC02125L Heater-Fuel Hose.jpg)



(DSC02130L Hose Clamps.jpg)



(DSC02128L Hoses Covers.jpg)



(DSC02134L Hose Assembling.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02124L Vacuum Hose.jpg (87KB - 397 downloads)
Attachments DSC02122L Radiator Hose.jpg (85KB - 410 downloads)
Attachments DSC02125L Heater-Fuel Hose.jpg (116KB - 384 downloads)
Attachments DSC02130L Hose Clamps.jpg (63KB - 405 downloads)
Attachments DSC02128L Hoses Covers.jpg (108KB - 441 downloads)
Attachments DSC02134L Hose Assembling.jpg (57KB - 412 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 10:28 AM (#157239 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Wires: As for Hoses there are various Solutions to package and protect the wires. First I was suggested to use "self-merging" Tape. Then I listed up my demands for "tubing" the wires/cables on my Car:

- Add and remove Wires at any time without "restarting" the job.

- Adapting the diameter when starting with one and ending with multiple Wires.

- Possibility to Branch off a Cable at any position.

- Flexible,  compact and heat-resistant, in sufficient Lenght available.

The (split) Tubes I used are shown in different Sizes (the big Sizes are missing). They can lead from one Size to the next Size by overlapping. For "closed" Applications two Tubes are being twisted one into another. Easy replaceable to another Size when adding or removing Cables. To cut with a Knife.  Applications to see also on earlier Pictures. I think these Tubes could also be used for Water and Fuel Hoses!?!



Edited by sermey 2008-12-30 10:40 AM




(DSC02135L Alternator OneWire.jpg)



(DSC02136L Crossover Sizes.jpg)



(DSC02153L Wire Tubes.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02135L Alternator OneWire.jpg (80KB - 421 downloads)
Attachments DSC02136L Crossover Sizes.jpg (74KB - 379 downloads)
Attachments DSC02153L Wire Tubes.jpg (65KB - 387 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 3:45 PM (#157280 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Antenna Gaskets: With my Car I got a complete Set of Rubber Parts. Most of them I could not use, the Gaskets for the Dual Antennas being to big.

I looked for a compatible Rubber Profile, best I could find was a wide sealing Strip (see Picture) with a useable Profile (Border Width 2.4mm, Border Height 2.25mm, Support Thickness 1.5mm). I cut this in the minimum Lenght of circumference (at Width 8mm). In the Middle of this Stripe I cutout a corner  to match the front angle of the Antenna Socket. With the Antenna already mounted but not tightened, I pushed fully in the Rubber Profile around the socket. On the rear, two other 90deg angles had been cutout on the job, the Lenght adapted to meet in the Center of the rear Side. (N.B I left the mounted Gasket in Picture Start Mounting!)

Important: starting with the Front, the front scew underneath has to be tighten first for pre-fixing the Rubber. At this point the Rubber should be pulled on both sides along the Socket to find the correct 90deg angle position, before cutting out. Finally the second Screw of the Socket can be tighten, as the first too. The Gasket fits all around as illustrated.

The Advantages of this Gasket: For replacing or changing, no Cables nor the Socket have to be removed. The Rubber is softer than the said Gasket and assures best Protection from entering Water in the Trunk. And last but not least, it looks professional.

I added the last Picture showing how to tighten the Socket, because hardly accessible (first fix a long screw, then manually tighten the wing nut, no tools!)



Edited by sermey 2008-12-30 5:39 PM




(DSC02170L Left Side View.jpg)



(DSC02171L Right Side View.jpg)



(DSC02154L Preparing Profile.jpg)



(DSC02174L Cut Front Corner.jpg)



(DSC02169L Start Mounting.jpg)



(DSC02202L Manually Thighted Socket.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02170L Left Side View.jpg (92KB - 391 downloads)
Attachments DSC02171L Right Side View.jpg (66KB - 423 downloads)
Attachments DSC02154L Preparing Profile.jpg (50KB - 392 downloads)
Attachments DSC02174L Cut Front Corner.jpg (29KB - 398 downloads)
Attachments DSC02169L Start Mounting.jpg (69KB - 410 downloads)
Attachments DSC02202L Manually Thighted Socket.jpg (70KB - 430 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 6:30 PM (#157302 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear Dual Power Antennas: Most Mopar-Owners wishes to have Rear Dual Antennas. Then, they would like to have them as Power Antennas. I must say: It is really an eye-catcher watching to these two Antennas when coming out together -  each one want to be the first on Top!

I felt a mess all this many parts, and thinking when must change the Antenna Bar (!), if ever a replacement is disposable. I found it easier to built-in a Power Module than to rebuild the Standard Antenna. I took two most used Power Antenna Units (new), shorted the Aluminium Tube according the Height of the Mopar Socket, drilled a bigger hole in the Mopar Antenna Socket - thats it!

Mounting - easy! Hold the Power Unit in the Trunk down-up first without fixing it, insert from top the Mopar Antenna Socket and fixed it. Now the correct Position where the Antenna has to be mounted is given. It needs just one long single Screw that leads direct through the Center of the Power Unit to the Fold of the Wheelhouse in the Trunk (see Picture).The lateral adjustment to be vertical was done with washers as distance elements (right side fits exact without any additional positioner). The two Antennas have to be parallel, view from ANY Position.

Now: A broken bar can instantly be replaced. Simply remove the visible Bar Nut and pull the old Bar out. When inserted, the new Antenna Bar is automatically fed in. It is in stainless / rustfree Steel, polished will be shiny (as earlier mentioned the Screws and Hose Clamps). In OFF-Position the new Bar goes more inside than the Mopar Bar. I feel this even nicer - and a smaller risk that an unhappy Guy will brake them. The Bar is a little bit shorter than the original one, therefore has a better FM reception. Both Antenna Units are controlled in parallel by a separate Switch, mounted lefthand under the dashboard. Before the Mopar Antenna was laterally weak being fixed only on the Bodys Metal Sheet by the two Screws of the Mopar Socket. Now, the second Mount by the Power Unit assures a stiff Stability all around.

To know: The Dual Antennas are originally RF-connected in parallel (Y). This worked well at the time with AM. With an FM-Radio Interference could occur. I connected the left Antenna to the Original AM Radio (Center Loudspeaker). The right Antenna goes to the FM Radio in the Glove Compartment (Surround STEREO Loudspeaker).



Edited by sermey 2008-12-31 5:26 AM




(DSC02178L Antenna Parts.jpg)



(DSC02179L Power Unit.jpg)



(DSC02198L Antenna Mounts.jpg)



(DSC02202L Antenna Connection.jpg)



(DSC02181L Bar Replacement.jpg)



(DSC02208L Bar Nut.jpg)



(DSC02204L Antenna Height.jpg)



(DSC02208L Antenna Full View.jpg)



(DSC00195L Dual Power Antennas.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02178L Antenna Parts.jpg (56KB - 410 downloads)
Attachments DSC02179L Power Unit.jpg (53KB - 417 downloads)
Attachments DSC02198L Antenna Mounts.jpg (90KB - 394 downloads)
Attachments DSC02202L Antenna Connection.jpg (97KB - 412 downloads)
Attachments DSC02181L Bar Replacement.jpg (26KB - 431 downloads)
Attachments DSC02208L Bar Nut.jpg (45KB - 405 downloads)
Attachments DSC02204L Antenna Height.jpg (44KB - 465 downloads)
Attachments DSC02208L Antenna Full View.jpg (55KB - 421 downloads)
Attachments DSC00195L Dual Power Antennas.jpg (75KB - 375 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 5:03 AM (#157359 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Front Grill: Another "Make-Up" the golden anodized Front Grill. If like or not, just must see! I found otherwise too much silver.

Pictures taken at US-Car Meeting when won "Best of Show": Me and my 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-31 5:15 AM




(DSC00022L Golden Grill.jpg)



(DSC00037L Front.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00022L Golden Grill.jpg (109KB - 380 downloads)
Attachments DSC00037L Front.jpg (99KB - 392 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 6:10 AM (#157362 - in reply to #156812)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Exhaust Outlets: Another tricky "Make-Up" or say Show-Element are the Quad Exhaust Outlets. It remember at nice, long Blond-Hair Ladies, the Hairs being "Dummies", but we still like and look at them.

I found the Dual Exhaust Outlets too much in the Center. Adding two additional virtual Outlets moves them optically to the right Direction outside.  Among various available items I selected these stainless Outlets because they matched best to the rear Side-Profile of the 1959 Dodge.  The mounting items, as illustrated, are also in stainless / rustfree Steel. This Mount System allows to adjust individually the Distance between the twin Outlets.

Here again: this can be restored at any time to its original state!



Edited by sermey 2008-12-31 6:24 AM




(DSC00043L Quad Exhaust Outlets.jpg)



(DSC00019L Dual Exhaust Outlet.jpg)



(DSC00069L Exhaust Outlets.jpg)



(DSC00013L Quad Outlet Mounts.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00043L Quad Exhaust Outlets.jpg (66KB - 400 downloads)
Attachments DSC00019L Dual Exhaust Outlet.jpg (97KB - 404 downloads)
Attachments DSC00069L Exhaust Outlets.jpg (64KB - 391 downloads)
Attachments DSC00013L Quad Outlet Mounts.jpg (74KB - 372 downloads)
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2008-12-31 11:56 AM (#157388 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

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To me, that convolute tubing screams late 70s enginebay to me and I've hated it ever since I first saw it. Definitly not a "Make-UP" in my eyes
Pretty much same goes for the cheap Spectre hose-wrap. Yuk!
On a driver, one way to get caught with fuel-spills in de engine-bay is to put that braided stuff in there so you'll never see the condition of the fuelline underneath. The rubber usually dries up and the hoses start to develop cracks and tears and can start leaking at/on/during the most inconvenient locations.

Other than that, nice info and some good tips there.
Thanks for sharing!
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 1:10 PM (#157395 - in reply to #157388)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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BigBlockMopar - 2008-12-31 5:56 PM To me, that convolute tubing screams late 70s enginebay to me and I've hated it ever since I first saw it. Definitly not a "Make-UP" in my eyes Pretty much same goes for the cheap Spectre hose-wrap. Yuk! On a driver, one way to get caught with fuel-spills in de engine-bay is to put that braided stuff in there so you'll never see the condition of the fuelline underneath. The rubber usually dries up and the hoses start to develop cracks and tears and can start leaking at/on/during the most inconvenient locations. Other than that, nice info and some good tips there. Thanks for sharing!

Nice open minded comment, Herman. You are right, many "Make-Ups" of today are crazy - not only on Cars. Some like it, other don't.

My aim with this tread is to motivate many Car owners to "upgrade" their cars with moderate effort, but visible effect. Here I just present what I did on my car now 10 Years ago, and I am happy when people look at, may find something useful and / or just state comments as you. Thank you.

Now to the Hoses: Yes, cannot see the condition of this hoses - nor of my veins!  Today hoses are not just Rubber as 50 Years ago. These old ones cracks and tears as you correctly alerted. The Material Technology has experienced extreme Developments in the last years. According the application there are Hoses in any other Material than Rubber (PVC, Polyurethan, Silicon, Elastomer, Nitril) for Longlife use. The fuelline hose I use is especially designed for this, it has already a stuff around, wraped again for uniformity reasons. Bought recently again for my new Dual Quad Project I will report here soon.

To the Spectre Hose Wrap: I liked this Design and have given my Argumets for. It was not a question of costs. Cheap doesn't mean bad. My Golden Coating on the Knights costs nothing, but is even more shiny than pure Gold.

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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 1:31 PM (#157397 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Screws 2: Self-tapping Screws are most efficient in the manufacturing process. They are self-centering in direction and angle, in opposite to Thead-Screws. Nevertheless I have substituted most self-tapping Screws by stainless / rustfree Thread-Screws.

- no damage of newly painted body (rust)

- some holes got too big

- option for other heads

- higher precision

For this I had to insert the nuts (on body before painting) using a Hand-Tool. The mirrored item is the unvisible clip used in Pic2. Some outside accessible Screws I replaced with Intra Hexagon Head Screws (?) for they cannot be removed with any pointy knife, as possible with Standard Cross Head  Screws (see Rear View Mirror).

 

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 1:55 AM




(DSC02232L Mirror Mount.jpg)



(DSC02231L Convertible Mold Mount.jpg)



(DSC02233L Convertible Rear Top Mount.jpg)



(DSC02230L Nut Press Tool .jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02232L Mirror Mount.jpg (41KB - 398 downloads)
Attachments DSC02231L Convertible Mold Mount.jpg (70KB - 407 downloads)
Attachments DSC02233L Convertible Rear Top Mount.jpg (48KB - 373 downloads)
Attachments DSC02230L Nut Press Tool .jpg (54KB - 393 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 5:10 PM (#157418 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Window Rubber: Restoring another US-Car years ago I used successfully the same method to replace the damaged and missing Window Rubber. The lower Door Windows Channel was totally rusted. On my DODGE, the Rubber of the Pivot Windows was broken, any attempt with a cutted Rubber Stripe failed, the Windows didn't hold enough, at the curves the Rubber was shrinked and looked very bad. Thus I used again my old method:

I put black Liquid Silicon Gasket in the chrome channels. Then I centered the Windows inserting small wood positioners inside, on the left and right side, and re-filled the gaps around with Liquid Silicon Gasket. After minimum one week or even longer the Silicon should be hardened trough, remaining softish, ready to cut out precisely the overflowed Silicon with a Knife (not cut towards the window!) .

Now, the Window is fixed all around, absolute water-proof and exact flush with the Chrome Channel, even more accurate than using the original rubber because custom-sailored. I suggest this also for Door Windows when the Rubber Profiles are not available, or for repair leaky Windshields, Remermber: Silicon Products cannot be painted!

 Any black Silicon Sealer can be used, should be heat resistant within -40 to +180deg, UV and all-wheather resistant (look at the Specs). Now I just found them ffrom the Producers of "Automotive Gasket" in the Internet and post it (sorry only in German). Same or similar  surely available in US.

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 2:12 AM




(DSC02241L Window Rubber.jpg)



(DSC02242L Cutting Out.jpg)



(DSC02243L Silicon Gasket.jpg)



(Automotive Gasket.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02241L Window Rubber.jpg (68KB - 426 downloads)
Attachments DSC02242L Cutting Out.jpg (63KB - 419 downloads)
Attachments DSC02243L Silicon Gasket.jpg (54KB - 404 downloads)
Attachments Automotive Gasket.jpg (109KB - 378 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-01 3:12 AM (#157468 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear View Mirror Glass: Restoring my Car I had to rechrome the Rear View Mirrors too and had for this to brake out the Glasses. I bought two bigger replacement Glasses as used for Trucks and let them cut excatly fitting in the now rechromed housing. To fix them I used again the before presented black Silicon - bonded and sealed in one! (on the Picture you can as well see in black the left and right Hood Positioners)

To add: I purchased two different Glasses, the one flat for the left side as used in all Mopar Mirrors, the other curved for the right side in order to get a wider viewing Angle (see Picture), as used in all todays cars.

Last Month I saw such a flat Mirror Replacement for Mopars in eBay, I post the Picture.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 3:18 AM




(DSC02246L New Mirror Glass.jpg)



(DSC02244L Curved Mirror Glass.jpg)



(2008 eBay Mirror Glass.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02246L New Mirror Glass.jpg (63KB - 397 downloads)
Attachments DSC02244L Curved Mirror Glass.jpg (40KB - 426 downloads)
Attachments 2008 eBay Mirror Glass.jpg (79KB - 401 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-01 1:10 PM (#157488 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Four-Way Warning Flasher: Most FWL-Cars doesn't have the Option of a Warning Flasher, none my Car when I got it. For personal and emergency reasons this was a must and added this Feature.

Four-Way means that the Flashing Signal goes in four Directions (please correct me if not): 1. to the Front Left Directional Light, 2. To the Front Right Directional Light, 3. To the Rear Left Directional (*and / or Brake) Light, 4. To the Rear Right Directional ("and / or Brake) Light. Thus, the Flasher has to provide four separate Current Lines. There will be one Input and four Outputs Connections. (* this depends if Brake Bulb is combined with Directional Signal)

The same Function I realized it simpler by using a One-Way Flasher Unit and four Diodes, as connected according the hand-drafted Diagram. The Input has to come directly from the Battery +12V to assure an operation in any circumstances. The Single (switched) Output of the Unit goes to the four (twisted) Diodes. The Outputs of the Diodes are then wired  to the four Directions, as described. All these 5 needed Wires are easy to found under the Dashboard - no extra long wires required! Check with an Instrument by Switching on and off the Functions (Brakes, Directional Light) and be sure you take the wires leading directly to the corresponding Bulb. The Flasher Unit should have a good visible Control-Lamp. Best I found was a Unit, mounted under the Dashboard, needind a single Hole 1/2" for mount, and pull-out for ON.

The used Diodes 1N5401 (100V/3A or higher Values), Standard Types available in any (?) electronic Shop (about USD1.00).

To the "Make-Up" or better to the Show-Effect: The Red Knob is the Flasher, the Silver Knob left-hand the Clock-Adjustment, and next you see the Switch S. This Swicht by-passes the Flashing (not the Diodes!!!), all Lamps around are continuous ON for "Show-Time" at evening, at Night or for Night-Pictures -Happy flashing with the Camera.

(The Headlamps have to be swichted ON separately, the last Switch L add the two other Headlamps).



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 2:55 PM




(DSC02279L Flasher Switch OFF.jpg)



(DSC02284L Flasher Switch ON.jpg)



(DSC02285L Diagram.jpg)



(DSC02288L Diodes 1N5401.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02279L Flasher Switch OFF.jpg (41KB - 389 downloads)
Attachments DSC02284L Flasher Switch ON.jpg (42KB - 443 downloads)
Attachments DSC02285L Diagram.jpg (60KB - 410 downloads)
Attachments DSC02288L Diodes 1N5401.jpg (32KB - 417 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-01 4:33 PM (#157507 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Fuel Temp Gauge: I was always used to know how many km the car will run when the Empty Fuel Alert Light went on. This I missed on my Dodge. When restoring the Instruments I added a bright Yellow LED. In the Fuel Tank I had to add an adjustable Switch and a separate wire leading to this LED. In the restoring Process this was not a big work. First I wanted design a Trigger-Circuit (2 - 3 Transistors) switching on the LED at an calibrated Resistor / Voltage Value on the existing line to  the Fuel Instrument. Thinking this value could vary due to instable Main-Voltage (the internal regulator works imprecisely) I decided to go the "traditional" way. When OFF the LED is not visible.

Now, the LED goes on always exactly at the same Fuel Level - in this regard happy driving and no Stress anymore!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 5:00 PM




(DSC02305L Fuel Temp Gauge.jpg)



(DSC02306L Empty LED ON.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02305L Fuel Temp Gauge.jpg (126KB - 422 downloads)
Attachments DSC02306L Empty LED ON.jpg (83KB - 409 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2009-01-01 5:33 PM (#157510 - in reply to #157488)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Thank you very much for your information about the 4-way flasher Serge! I have been looking after an old system for to add on my car, but with your diagram and notes it will be easy to build one.
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 4:30 AM (#157543 - in reply to #157510)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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wizard - 2009-01-01 11:33 PM Thank you very much for your information about the 4-way flasher Serge! I have been looking after an old system for to add on my car, but with your diagram and notes it will be easy to build one.

I am glad that you Swen, as one of the many highly experienced FW Lookers on this site found something useful, as I wished for all old US-Car Owners. I know, not anythig in this Thread fits the taste of the Readers, but "There's no accounting for Taste". Many issues have already been discussed somewhere, I cannot know, others are still open. Thus, go on (and all other Car-Friends) keeping inspired by reading these and next next issues to come.  - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 9:59 AM (#157548 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Head Lamp Flash: I also was used to have the Head Lamp Flash Feature, especially as alert to others in critical situations, mostly on the Highwayss.

Fortunately I had already a Micro-Switch Unit I purchased "with great foresight" in double many Years ago for another US-Car. It needs one additional wire leading through the Steering Wheel Unit to a separate mounted Relais. As the Four-Way Warning Flasher this Option works at any time, by-passing all the Head Lamp Circuits. At ON all four Head Lamps (both Bulb Wires!) work together to get the maximum bright Alert Light. It is not recommended to let them ON for longer time, the bulbs may got hot and damaged.

Sometimes on the way just say "Hello" and flash the Head Lamps.





(DSC02307L Original Directional Lever.jpg)



(DSC02310L Switch Unit Headlamp Flash.jpg)



(DSC00010L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg)



(DSC00038L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02307L Original Directional Lever.jpg (26KB - 428 downloads)
Attachments DSC02310L Switch Unit Headlamp Flash.jpg (71KB - 392 downloads)
Attachments DSC00010L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg (58KB - 401 downloads)
Attachments DSC00038L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg (82KB - 429 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 1:36 PM (#157567 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Radio: To repair a Radio is not easy when you are not familiar with nor have equipped for. Fortunately I have some Tools. What you can do: clean the Contacts and the Potentiometer using a Contact-Spray. I have soldered a shielded Cable with Cinch Connector between the Max and the Ground ot the Volume Control, in Serie with a Resistor of 100k. This is an AUX-Input (also Output without 100k) for external Audio-Devices. Can use an (portable) FM-Radio and connect it there. However the Sound Quality will not be much better due to the poor Output-Stage of the Radio.

The Loudspeaker was replaced by a better Quality one. The mounts fits but a corner of the Magnet must be removed or will touch the Dashboard.

As printable PDF-File post-attached the Technical Instructions with Schematic Diagramm: MOPAR Radio 856/857, 6 Pages in 3 Steps (cannot Download 500kB).  



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 5:24 AM




(DSC00051 MOPAR Radio.jpg)



(DSC00123L Radio Top View.jpg)



(DSC00122L Radio Bottom View.jpg)



(1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00051 MOPAR Radio.jpg (82KB - 431 downloads)
Attachments DSC00123L Radio Top View.jpg (93KB - 388 downloads)
Attachments DSC00122L Radio Bottom View.jpg (99KB - 397 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg (142KB - 409 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 1-2.pdf (175KB - 536 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 3-4.pdf (186KB - 476 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 5-6.pdf (153KB - 449 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 2:59 PM (#157577 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Curved Windshield: I was already asked if I have a Curved Windshield. Yes, I had it, but mat as sandblasted. I coudn't find anywhere a Curved one and had to take what was available. Finally I learned to like the new straight Windshield beeng more slanted. In a certain angle from side view you even can't see if it is curved or not. In my Fantasy I have modified my Windshield to various Stretched Curved Models - the last Version 7 (Double Stretched) I feel exciting! Looking at, then back to the Original, the actual one seems to be very "old-fashioned". Just to remember: it's an Oldtimer!

In the Collection I left the entire Car Size to get an integrate Impression.

1. My Car today, 2. Original Curved, 3. Stretched, 4. Streched Curved, 5. More Stretched, 6. More Stretched Curved, 7. Double Stretched Curved (and additional Zoomed).



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 2:44 AM




(Ross Roy-Curved Windshield.jpg)



(Original Curved Windshield 1.jpg)



(Original Curved Windshield 2.jpg)



(Various Stretched Windshields.jpg)



(Double Stretched Windshield Zoomed.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Ross Roy-Curved Windshield.jpg (70KB - 392 downloads)
Attachments Original Curved Windshield 1.jpg (58KB - 418 downloads)
Attachments Original Curved Windshield 2.jpg (99KB - 395 downloads)
Attachments Various Stretched Windshields.jpg (190KB - 411 downloads)
Attachments Double Stretched Windshield Zoomed.jpg (79KB - 437 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 8:07 AM (#157646 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Seat Ash Tray: As already apllied on the Door Handles and the Rear Lamps, the Golden Sticker on the Seat Ash Tray has its own optical Effect - a  (Custom) Royal feeling for Smokers sitting behind.

An Interior matched Color would be nice too.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 8:12 AM




(DSC00010L Seat Ash Tray.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00010L Seat Ash Tray.jpg (75KB - 420 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 9:05 AM (#157650 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Bumper Bolts: Shiny polished Bumper Bolts underlines a nice restoration. In the Sun or at Spotlight they may shine as small Brillants around the car. Some are less visible, other more.

There are different Types, the mostly used hardened Steel with a stainless Cover, then the rechromed and the all stainless / rustfree ones to be handeled and polished as the other Screws. For the main Front and Rear Bumpers I used the "covered" ones, on the sides and up-side the smaller rechromed ones I had already. Do not tighten to hard as I did: somewhere the Chrome of the Bumper started to brake around the Head, the Support-Arm being not exactly parallel with the Bumper. Should put a Nylon Washer for compensation.

I like the last picture and post it at higher Quality.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 9:10 AM




(DSC02324L Bumper Bolts.jpg)



(DSC02321L Front Bumper Bolts.jpg)



(DSC02323.L Side Bumper Bolt.jpg)



(DSC00006L Rear Bumper Support.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02324L Bumper Bolts.jpg (71KB - 424 downloads)
Attachments DSC02321L Front Bumper Bolts.jpg (56KB - 431 downloads)
Attachments DSC02323.L Side Bumper Bolt.jpg (74KB - 421 downloads)
Attachments DSC00006L Rear Bumper Support.jpg (140KB - 403 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 1:46 PM (#157673 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Front Directional Parking Lamps: All the Insiders will have noticed that the Directional Lamps on my 1959 Dodge are not Original. The Lenses were partly broken, the Chrome-Plating on them washed-out and the Bulb Sockets corroded.

Then the Swiss Car Inspection claimed, these Lamps need a viewing angle of minimum 150deg (the bulbs are recessed and not visible from the side). I was committed to add two external Lamp I mounted provisorly with the Side Bumper Bolts - very ugly! Of course, after the Check I removed them.

In addition I could not find replacement Lenses. Recently one NOS went for USD 150.00 on eBay (!). The Reproductions I saw are correct in Shape, but not galvanic rechromed (grey painted), therefore not shiny as the Original. May-be today there are nicer ones. I had to find another Solution.

I purchased Lamps similar to the external Lamps, but with White Lenses. Then my Imagination led me to a Black Silicon Pot, fitting exactly into the rear Side of the Directional Lamps Housing, and sealing in all around without any add-ons. The Lens mounted to be 3mm under the Front Housing, as before not visible from the Side, but performing the Inspections Demand. For a brighter Light I painted ths Inside in white. The Lamp is water-proof, is quite in-line with the Cars Design and looks pretty nice.

 





(DSC00040L Old Original Lense.jpg)



(DSC02315L External Directional Lamps.jpg)



(DSC02317L Silicon Cement Pot.jpg)



(DSC02326L Items Overview.jpg)



(DSC02329L Interior Lamp.jpg)



(DSC00088L New Directional Lamp.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00040L Old Original Lense.jpg (82KB - 436 downloads)
Attachments DSC02315L External Directional Lamps.jpg (51KB - 442 downloads)
Attachments DSC02317L Silicon Cement Pot.jpg (79KB - 396 downloads)
Attachments DSC02326L Items Overview.jpg (75KB - 419 downloads)
Attachments DSC02329L Interior Lamp.jpg (95KB - 419 downloads)
Attachments DSC00088L New Directional Lamp.jpg (113KB - 441 downloads)
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Rebels-59
Posted 2009-01-03 3:39 PM (#157685 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK
I have seen the front of your 59 many times on here and NEVER noticed your Front Directional Parking Lamps where altered, They L@@K very nice,,

Keep this thread going, i enjoy reading what you have done, and a few things i may also do to my 59 Coronet..

I,m not too keen on Your Finger Nail Colour Though..........LOL

P.S.. I bought a Pair of NOS Non Genuine lenses a couple years back on US Ebay for $15, They are very close to the Original, Although i have,nt fitted them as mine are good, But the seller listed them as 1958, So no one Bid,, His mistake but my Gain........

Edited by Rebels-59 Coronet 2009-01-03 3:42 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 5:19 PM (#157699 - in reply to #157685)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Rebels-59 Coronet - 2009-01-03 9:39 PM I have seen the front of your 59 many times on here and NEVER noticed your Front Directional Parking Lamps where altered, They L@@K very nice,, Keep this thread going, i enjoy reading what you have done, and a few things i may also do to my 59 Coronet.. I,m not too keen on Your Finger Nail Colour Though..........LOL P.S.. I bought a Pair of NOS Non Genuine lenses a couple years back on US Ebay for $15, They are very close to the Original, Although i have,nt fitted them as mine are good, But the seller listed them as 1958, So no one Bid,, His mistake but my Gain........

Your remarkable Comment as a 59 Coronet Owner confirms how authentic this Parking Lamp looks. One reason more to copy this in the case of a trouble with the Lenses. These Finger Nails belong to my Stepdaughter (15), I needed a third hand for show the matching Diameter in taking the picture. Not easy, because I have to take care not beeing mirrored in this shiny Chrome. Next time she must change to another Color!

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 5:43 PM (#157705 - in reply to #157280)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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I wrote:

"Dual Antenna Gaskets: With my Car I got a complete Set of Rubber Parts. Most of them I could not use, the Gaskets for the Dual Antennas being too big."

I just found these new, never used Antenna Gaskets. Now I wanted check if I am not too pedantic, taking a non restored original Antenna Socket as reference. The front Point is adjusted to fit correctly. The rear is about 3mm too long. Judge yourself!

In Comparison my Gaskets are "Rolex" for nearly free.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-04 1:29 AM




(DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber1.jpg)



(DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber2.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber1.jpg (60KB - 376 downloads)
Attachments DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber2.jpg (56KB - 339 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 7:02 PM (#157713 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear Lamp Gaskets: No comments to the old / original Gasket.

I found High Precision Hydraulic Rings, self-centering inside, outside not overlapping at all, and they fit as tailored. The black Height of 1/4" is a nice separation between the White Body and the Rechromed Housing.

Another inconspicious "Make-Up".



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 7:21 PM




(DSC02339L Old-New Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg)



(DSC02342L New Rear Lamp Gasket Zoomed.jpg)



(DSC00091L New Rear Lamp Gasket.jpg)



(DSC00090L Left Rear Lamps Housings.jpg)



(DSC00008L Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02339L Old-New Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg (36KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments DSC02342L New Rear Lamp Gasket Zoomed.jpg (47KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments DSC00091L New Rear Lamp Gasket.jpg (42KB - 348 downloads)
Attachments DSC00090L Left Rear Lamps Housings.jpg (82KB - 371 downloads)
Attachments DSC00008L Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg (91KB - 346 downloads)
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wbower3
Posted 2009-01-04 2:19 PM (#157777 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt!

Posts: 5358
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Sermy, I agree with Clive, KEEP this thread going!!! Walt
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-04 4:47 PM (#157801 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Power Window Switches: These items are very hard to find. And when you have or found them, some Main-Connectors may be missing, often very corroded, bad for a good electrical Contact needed for proper Window lift. Thus, I modificated the single Pin Connectors, also in order to match to the dicker wire in Double Diameter.

There are many  Single Pin Connectors available in Size and in Shape. Round Connectors offer a better electrical Contact due to the bigger surface around the Pin. Here I used the biggest Round one (Yellow). Bonding to the wire it needs a special Handtool, or best is to solder them for best Tensile Strength, especially whe a high flexible Wire is used. Then I cut the Front of the single Male Contacts and soldered them on each Pin of the Power Switch (see picture).

Now the Power Window Cables can directly be connected to and removed  from the Power Window Switch as any other Cable. The missing or corroded Main Socket is not needed anymore. These Single Cable are of course as before accessible outside the Door Panel, when removing the Switch. Recommended  to label the Cables, the + Battery Line always to be Red.

This "soldered" Pin Contacting can be used as well on the Instruments Panel.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-04 5:12 PM




(DSC02361L Power Window Switch Connector.jpg)



(DSC02358L Round Pin Connectors.jpg)



(DSC02359L Cut Male Connector.jpg)



(DSC02365L Soldered Pin & Wire Connected.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02361L Power Window Switch Connector.jpg (70KB - 367 downloads)
Attachments DSC02358L Round Pin Connectors.jpg (55KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments DSC02359L Cut Male Connector.jpg (26KB - 366 downloads)
Attachments DSC02365L Soldered Pin & Wire Connected.jpg (50KB - 352 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-05 9:54 AM (#157860 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Fuel Pump: Many of you may have encountered the same Situation. You are attending a Car Show, enjoy a nice Day, and are even Candidate for an Award. Later Afternoon you go sitting in your Car, to drive it in to the Ramp or for go Home – many people around watching you and waiting to see the Car drive away. A first attempt to start the car,  a second time, a third time again, sometimes until one Minute till running  – what a Disgrace in this admired Car!

Firstly I decided to put a Replacement Electric Fuel Pump. Later I thought, one Electric Element more in the Pump risking to fail one day, and remembering my aim to restore at anytime to its Original when I should like. I searched for another Solution:

I added a second (electric) Fuel Pump to the already existing (mechanic) Original one in parallel. It is a Round Type with axial Ports, Inlet down-side, Outlet up-side, mounted by a Hose Bracket to the lower Generators Arm. The two Inlets using a Branch Connector (Y) lead to the Fuel Tank Line. Each of the other two Outlets are provided with an one-way Valve before joining together by using another Branch Connector (Y), according the Picture “Fuel Flow Diagram”. The closest +12V ignition-switched Electric Power is diverged from the near Wire leading to the Electric Choke, the Ground (-) to the Bracket Screw. The Picture's View is Down-Up, the second Pump is hardly visible from Top.

To know: As a matter of physical principle, at running engine only one Fuel Pump delivers Fuel to the Carburetor. It's the one generating the higher Pressure, forcing the other Valve to close and avoiding the Fuel to backflow. When one Pump is failing, the other Pump will take over at any instance.

First switch ON the Ignition, listen to the hardly audible buzz of the running Electric Fuel Pump. When the Sound lowers in Frequency means the Carburetor is adequately supplied with Fuel and the Engine ready to start. Can see when the Glass Fuel Filter has no Air anymore. Then go on by switching to the Starter Position. Now, the Car starts immediately at any circumstances. Furthermore, the already activated and thus pre-heated Electric Choke turns the Engine earlier to the lower Idle Speed.

Just start and drive away – and happy End of the Car Shows to come!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-05 10:44 AM




(DSC02376L Replacement Electric Fuel Pump.jpg)



(DSC02375L Fuel Flow Diagram.jpg)



(DSC02372L Dual Fuel Pumps.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02376L Replacement Electric Fuel Pump.jpg (56KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02375L Fuel Flow Diagram.jpg (48KB - 339 downloads)
Attachments DSC02372L Dual Fuel Pumps.jpg (78KB - 363 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-05 5:34 PM (#157909 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Power Windows Lift: This Option I won’t miss on a Convertible, when driving from a Land-Street to the Highway, being exposed all around the Head to heavy wind. At open Top all Windows up reduces the Inside Wind and the arising Noise considerably.

 On the other side they are a Show Element for Cars at this time.

At Oldtimer Shows you can see many badly aligned and particularly “tired” Power Windows, as very old walking people. The rear Windows are more affected than the Front ones. This difference is mainly due to the longer electrical Wires needed, but also to the Rubber Channel’s Friction they have to overcome, notably  the 1957 – 59 ForwardLook Car Versions Convertible and 2-Doors. My ambition was to achieve a Down-Up Time of less than 5 Seconds, and a Window not vibrating in any Position.

After some technical Investigation I came to the Conclusion, that the Original Window Motor, being powered at the lower Limit, could just not meet my demands. I found others, bigger ones, I had to adapt them mechanically. Then I restored the small Window Rollers and all Window Channels.

The Window Channels I squeezed in Height and Width in order to get a clearance of about 1mm to the Rollers. This required a precise alignment to the Doors (Front) and the Body (Rear), so as the Windows could be moved easily by Hand up and down, before installing the Motors. The Channels and Rollers I lubricated with Silicon Grease. The wires I changed to double Diameter and adapted the Pin Connections to the Power Window Switches as already posted earlier, all this for a minimum Voltage Loss due to the Higher Currents. The Main Power Supply I attached at the Convertible Top Switch Unit, after the Thermostatic Interruptor, but before the Top Switch, in order to disconnect the Circuit in Lock Situations or excessive Current drain.

Now I could start the first Test: The Windows lifted up and Down like “young Dogs”, achieving my stated goal, but . . . .

At the lower and upper End, as the Windows are forced to stop by the Stoppers at full Electric Power, the Motor Gear spun risking to damage the Pinion. Fortunately I found the sole correct Solution: at each End, up and down, I mounted a High Current Micro Switch (25A) with a long Lever  (Picture from Internet). Instead to adjust the mechanical Stoppers for End Positions, I have accordingly only to bend the Levers of the Micro Switches to stop correctly.

Now:

- Fine Adjustment and precice Position of the Window at “open” and “closed”.

- No excessive Current at Stop, saving the Switch Contacts

- No needless mechanical Pression and thus Deformation in the End Positions.

- No “stroke with a hammer” at End Stop, but smooth and soundless.

- The maximum Down-Up Time is 4 Seconds.

- No Time Difference on Rear Window Right, when operated with Main Driver Switch or local Switch (longest wire).

But must admit that the Rear Windows upper Edge may injure the Rubber Channel when not aligned and lifting up, due to the Powerful Motor. Edge should be rounded.

 (Sorry that could not take Inside Pictures)



Edited by sermey 2009-01-06 5:10 AM




(Power Micro Switch L.jpg)



(DSC02378L Windows Left Up.jpg)



(DSC02381L Window up Rubber Parallelity.jpg)



(DSC02383L Front Left Windows Alignment.jpg)



(DSC02379L Rear Right Windows Alignment.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Power Micro Switch L.jpg (60KB - 380 downloads)
Attachments DSC02378L Windows Left Up.jpg (75KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments DSC02381L Window up Rubber Parallelity.jpg (70KB - 382 downloads)
Attachments DSC02383L Front Left Windows Alignment.jpg (82KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments DSC02379L Rear Right Windows Alignment.jpg (66KB - 353 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 10:05 AM (#157980 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Horns: The rechromed Covers in Combination with the painted Body looks great, even at other Colors than Golden. This Improvement makes only sense when the Horns are mounted on the Top as shown. Otherwise they are not visible, and even may disturb the appearing of the Front Grill’s Profile when located behind. In that case the Horns are at best in Black.





(DSC02386L Chrome Golden Horn.jpg)



(DSC02391L Horn Positions.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02386L Chrome Golden Horn.jpg (84KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments DSC02391L Horn Positions.jpg (88KB - 364 downloads)
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wbower3
Posted 2009-01-06 10:53 AM (#157985 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt!

Posts: 5358
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Location: Heaven Above (Formerly Oklahoma City,OK)
Hi Serge. What kind of fuel pump relay did you install on the electric pump, and did you also install some sort of device to shut off power to the pump in event of collision or other accident? I like electric pumps but I'm concerned about accidents and fire and the electric pump continuing to run on ...... Walt
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 11:15 AM (#157989 - in reply to #157985)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

wbower3 - 2009-01-06 4:53 PM Hi Serge. What kind of fuel pump relay did you install on the electric pump, and did you also install some sort of device to shut off power to the pump in event of collision or other accident? I like electric pumps but I'm concerned about accidents and fire and the electric pump continuing to run on ...... Walt

Walt, there is no relay nor a shut off switch. The electric pump will be off when the Ignition Switch is set to off. I don't know if a separate (automatic) shut-off is imperatively needed for the case of Collision. I was even not thinking at and  never heard about this issue. It's a matter to give some thought to and start a discussion in another thread(?).

Thank you for this indication. - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 12:18 PM (#157994 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Spot Killer: You have certainly noticed the pure black Color on the Front Medaillon. This didn’t look always as nice, especially after a longer Trip. Color may be partly removed. This happens as well to other painted items of the Car.

To remove this Spots “on the Road” just use a standard water-proof Felt Marker. They are available in various Colors and Sizes. If the Color doesn’t match, use the one with the darker note, will be less visible than the brighter one. Always best matched Color: Black is black!

This Correction can be useful for the Exterior as for the Interior. It’s a fast way, dries instantly and doesn’t dish up. Thus, keep your Felt Marker always ready in the Car.

This is verbally an “applied Make-Up”.





(DSC00053L Never Spots Killed.jpg)



(DSC00022L Spot Killer.jpg)



(DSC02419L Water-Proof Felt Markers.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00053L Never Spots Killed.jpg (43KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments DSC00022L Spot Killer.jpg (64KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments DSC02419L Water-Proof Felt Markers.jpg (40KB - 345 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 2:22 PM (#158008 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Power Windows Micro Switch: I have found the (broken) Test Switch (25A) and post some Pictures on special Request.

The Switch is mounted at the same side as the Window Channels with two Scews, on the left or on the right side, according the Windows side. The Lever is optional (the two small mounting Screws are missing in the Pics). I have added a Side Arm for the Windows Pressing. The Interruption happens within the flexible Range of the Lever, no mechanical Forces on the Switch at all, a smooth Transition. The lower existing original Positioner is to be adjusted just to touch the Windows Edge when stopped. Let there the damping Rubber anyway.

The wires are connected at the Switches sides and fixed with the Screw underneath, as well known from plug connectors. The bigger flexible Wire as showed in "Power Window Switches" is correct for these Holes (tin the Ends).The yellow Meter simulates the Windows Edge, activating the Switch when lifting downwards. By bending the Lever (or moving the Switch) the Stop Position is fine-adjustable.  There are two Micro Switches per Window, one for the DOWN and the other for the UP Stop.

A simple and reliable Installation, and it works excellent. Good Luck.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-06 11:24 PM




(DSC02424l Micro Switch No Lever.jpg)



(DSC02422L Micro Switch Levers.jpg)



(DSC02423L Switch Side View.jpg)



(DSC02425L Wire Connections.jpg)



(DSC02426L Downward Switching .jpg)



(DSC02430L Micro Switch Label.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02424l Micro Switch No Lever.jpg (63KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments DSC02422L Micro Switch Levers.jpg (68KB - 328 downloads)
Attachments DSC02423L Switch Side View.jpg (48KB - 331 downloads)
Attachments DSC02425L Wire Connections.jpg (63KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments DSC02426L Downward Switching .jpg (35KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments DSC02430L Micro Switch Label.jpg (47KB - 333 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-07 8:14 AM (#158093 - in reply to #157980)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Paint for Horns and Air Cleaner: On special Request.

Golden: KRYLON Brass Metallic 2204 (is brighter than the Gold Metallic 1706)

Transparent: KRYLON Clear Varnish Coating 7001

To know: The first sprayed brillant Gold  will be affected by the transparent Coating. A among many Tests the best Result got with 7001, the 2204 dried out. If not transparent coated the Metallic Surface Brillancy diminishes, even may disappear when cleaning or touching. This second Layer apply at least two times, later it can be polished when get mat.

 

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-07 10:57 AM (#158100 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Power Lock: This is another Feature, as the Power Window Lifts, I won’t miss in my ’59 Dodge.

There are various Kits available with all needed items, including the wiring Harness. I saw even Kits including a Remote Control. What you see is a four Door Kit. The Single Units are mounted inside the Door, under the Door Lock, very easy to install. The only Handicap when there is no wiring at all to the Doors. A high flexible, floating Connection.near the lower Door Hinge helps. Thinking ahead I had already provided many supplement Cables when wiring the Power Window Lifts (for Loudspeakers, Power Lock and various Control / Switch Units when required).

This Power Lock Option is not visible at all and doesn’t need any exterior Switch. All Doors unlock when the Car is being opened by the Key from Outside, or by the Inside Door Handle (Up). They lock when closing correspondingly. Thus, the Power Locks can be activated from outside at open Windows too by moving the Inside Door Handles up or down.

To Know: In this Configuration all Doors have the same State, closed or opened. When disconnecting the Battery and then reconnect, for security reasons, all Locks are turned to the Closed State.

Now, not a visible Improvement, but no Problems anymore with a closed Door on the other Side. And it works!

(Sorry here again, could not take Pictures from inside)



Edited by sermey 2009-01-07 11:27 AM




(Power Lock Kit .jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Power Lock Kit .jpg (84KB - 311 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-08 4:24 AM (#158207 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND
Air Filter: Here the same Color Combination as the Horns. The rechromed Center would fit very well to any other Color.



(DSC00070L Chrome Golden Air Filter.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00070L Chrome Golden Air Filter.jpg (118KB - 330 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-08 2:32 PM (#158241 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Emblem Studs: In Pot Metal they are damageable when mounting the Emblem using the Self Tapping Nuts another time..And what a Frustration when a Stud go broken! To prevent this I tapped Screw Threadings on any Emblem. Further more it's a smoother feeling to tighten softly.

Sample shown on the Chevron Emblem.

To know: Side Emblems are mostly in Duals as LH and RH. Some of them can be mounted at any Side, when drilling additional Holes. Finding later a NOS Rechromed Chevron, I drilled the additional Holes. Now there are to LH Emblems, not visible at all. Applying this way all 1959 Rear Lamps are interchangeable as well.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-08 5:56 PM




(DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg)



(DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg)



(DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg)



(DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg)



(DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg (71KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg (75KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg (17KB - 333 downloads)
Attachments DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg (73KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg (66KB - 303 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-08 5:26 PM (#158254 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Moulding Clips: As the self-tapping Screws, these items had been designed for a fast Manufacturing, and are not suitable for an outstanding Car. They damage the Paint (as the self tapping Screws), go rusty and don’t tighten the Moulding sufficiently (rattling). The rust is programmed, the Mouldings are loosely and thus not close to the Body. And there should be no Gap at all!

I found stainless / rustfree and springy Clips in various Sizes being used to fix Aluminium Covering Profiles. Adding a Screw, attached by soldering (tin), this was the ideal Solution.

Now, these are not Clips anymore, but rather Clamps. Inside comes first the Grommet for sealing, then the Washer, and finally the Wing Screw, as well known from the Dual Rear Antenna, for easy fixing by Hand without any Tool. Of course all in stainless / rustfree Metal.

By cutting the Sides, they can be fitted to match the Width of any Moulding in the Range, even when the Clips are asymmetric, see “Replacement Sample”. For the Wide Door Mouldings I used two opposed Clips, every 3”, enabling to mount the Moulding from Outside: Down hook in -> push up, and then Up hook in -> push down = Fixed, and adjustable Left < > Right, as Up < > Down due to the Spring Property. They can perfectly be aligned each to other and at any time (see earlier Pictures of the Car)

This new Clip is to be tightened till to the Body in benefit to its curved shape and springy Attribute.

No loosy Mouldings anymore, no Gaps at all, and last but not least: A very pleasant Assembling.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-08 5:53 PM




(DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg)



(DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg)



(DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg)



(DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg)



(DSC02488L Application.jpg)



(DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg)



(DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg)



(Riveting Double Clips L.jpg)



(DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg (74KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg (43KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg (52KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg (57KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments DSC02488L Application.jpg (50KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg (44KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg (46KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments Riveting Double Clips L.jpg (30KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg (31KB - 304 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-09 5:10 AM (#158310 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Paunched Sides: All Cars at this time had more or less paunched Sides, best visible from behind along the Car. The Side Mouldings then becomes curved too. A Correction by heating would make it even worse. I tried a mechanical Solution to reduce these Paunches.

In about the Length of the Side Mouldings and under the same Position I mounted Inside a strong Steel U-Profile (W25-H12-D4.5mm). This Dimensions fitted just well behind the Rear Wheelhouse. As expected I didn’t got a straight Line, the max. Curve Retraction was about ¾ “. The Body has become very stiff and highly resistant to Stress.

Paunch reduced - but Weight increased! This is not a Make-Up, rather a Cosmetic Surgery.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-09 5:27 AM




(DSC02459L Profile View Inside Rear Quarter.jpg)



(DSC00221L Rear Side View.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02459L Profile View Inside Rear Quarter.jpg (87KB - 381 downloads)
Attachments DSC00221L Rear Side View.jpg (70KB - 334 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-09 8:04 AM (#158322 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dome Light: A visual Gadget is the “Longer Light” Feature. A two Port Electric Box is connected directly to the Dome Light Switch and to Ground, being hidden behind the lower inside Panel, near the Loudspeaker (Pic). For easy Connection remove the Switch and pull the Wires through.

To know: This item can as well be connected directly to the Dome Light and the Box hidden behind the Side Panel (Convertible). Attention: Attach to the floating Ground Wire of the Lamp (has 0V when the Lamp is ON) and not to the +12V!!!

Now, closing the Doors the Dome Lights fade out after about 30 Seconds.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-09 8:18 AM




(DSC02514L Dome Light Switch.jpg)



(DSC02515L Dome Light Fading Out.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02514L Dome Light Switch.jpg (132KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments DSC02515L Dome Light Fading Out.jpg (46KB - 337 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-09 1:08 PM (#158350 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Trunk Lid: The Problem of the “Half-masted Trunks..” (2006-10-16 /d500neil) has already been discussed. There I showed my Solution using two Gas-Springs, on the left and the right side, needing only two Holes to fix them. The Data and Dimensions are given there.

I have already replaced them by the next stronger ones, when I covered the Trunk Lid with the same black Parket as for the Interior. Then the Trunk Lid became heavier, I had simply to replace the Gas-Springs by the next stronger ones. Just take out the Split Pin at the upper and at the lower End, then the Spring Unit can be removed and replaced by another one. This may be important when starting with too weak ones for an exchange where purchased! (the silver Screws fixing the Parket disappear when covered by black Plastic Caps, if prefered)

Now, the Trunk Lid when DOWN remain slightly opened (Trunk Light OFF), or stands UP again as before and in younger Years!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-10 5:06 AM




(DSC02497L Gas-Springs Lenght 275.jpg)



(DSC02516L Snap-On Gas-Spring.jpg)



(DSC02495L Front View.jpg)



(DSC02496L View Other Side.jpg)



(DSC02522L Interior-Parket on Trunk Lid.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02497L Gas-Springs Lenght 275.jpg (52KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments DSC02516L Snap-On Gas-Spring.jpg (41KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments DSC02495L Front View.jpg (45KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments DSC02496L View Other Side.jpg (87KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments DSC02522L Interior-Parket on Trunk Lid.jpg (82KB - 308 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-10 4:08 AM (#158410 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Door Weather-Strips: This items on the Car are exposed and visible to anybody, often mounted inaccurately. This stands out on the spot when they are not inline to the opened Window. Usually they are clinched on the Door, not permitting any fine Alignment afterwards.

This can be achieved by using Special Screws, flat as Rivets. I found black burned-in Low Profile Pan-Head Screws. Head Height 1.6mm (see on Pic the upper Screw), Diameter 7.8mm, Metric M4x10mm. The Diameter allows a mounting Hole in the Weather-Strips up to 5.5mm for an Alignment Range of over 2mm in any Direction, the low Height make it impossible to touch the Window, and the black Head disappears in the black Strip. 

Easiest is to use a Manual Hole Puncher for the Strips. First punch 4mm, then more Punches around in order to get the Hole bigger towards the best Position to the Door. Can have more Fixing Points as had before, but should cut at first all Threads in the Door. Now, as well simple and fast to replace them, this when the Strip is wrongly bent at the Ends or too much curved for straightening. (see Alignments of Door Weather-Strips above in Pics “Power Windows Lift”).

Another visible Precision Work on your Car!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-10 4:44 AM




(DSC02531L Low Profile Pan-Head Screws.jpg)



(DSC02532L Manual Hole Puncher.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02531L Low Profile Pan-Head Screws.jpg (66KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments DSC02532L Manual Hole Puncher.jpg (40KB - 269 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-10 3:06 PM (#158449 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Slanted Rear Seats: As far I could see, all earlier Convertibles have steeper Rear Seats than the Front Seats. This is uncomfortable to sit and furthermore this looks not inviting. The Front Seats are already steeper then today Cars, the Angle to the sitting Surface cannot be adapted for best feeling, nor with the 6-Way Power Seats Option. With it the entire Seat is rotated front- or backwards.

First I modified the Hinges of the Front Seat for a wider Sitting Angle. Then I moved the Cross Bar of the Rear Back Seat about 2” backward. In the Pics the fomer Original Position is still visible. In Consequence the Rear Seat Mount had moved up, the Bolt is now in an other Position and the Side Panels have been extended accordingly. The needed, interrelated Modifications at the Mechanics of the Convertible Top is reported later. (when you brighten the first Pic you will discover the Steel Profile and the Power Antenna Unit)

Now, a Comfortable Sitting and more Space too for the Rear Passengers, furthermore nice Parallel Back Seats, as well known from 4-Door Cars. All around happy Passengers: Let's lean back and ride.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-10 3:53 PM




(DSC00058L Overview Behind Rear Back Seat.jpg)



(DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Cross Bar .jpg)



(DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Mount.jpg)



(DSC00051L All Slanted Parallel Back Seats.jpg)



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Attachments DSC00058L Overview Behind Rear Back Seat.jpg (100KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Cross Bar .jpg (47KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments DSC00058L Zoomed Moved Back Seat Mount.jpg (85KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments DSC00051L All Slanted Parallel Back Seats.jpg (105KB - 305 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-11 12:44 PM (#158533 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Drumming Noise: I like Low Noise Cars, can listen to the Music, talk with the Passengers and hear the Birds when driving. In the 50thies they didn’t care about Noise as today.

I found flexible, self-adhesive Panels (50x40x3mm, 5Kg/m2) especially designed to reduce Vibrations, Resonances and this Drumming Noise. Setting them flush one with the other the Surface is waterproof. Except the Engine Compartment, I applied these Panels on any reachable Inside Surfaces: All the Interior, Inside the Doors, over the Rear Axle, on the Rear Wheel Houses, on the Rear Quarters (as already seen in “Paunched Body”), and Inside the Trunk, using total about 5m2 / 25kg. Then comes the black Interior Carpet above all, and finally the Mats tailored as the Originals. (the bright Flash makes the Panels appear in brown)

Now, not only the Drumming Noise is considerably attenuated, but the Doors sound discreet when closing, the covered Ground Surface has a new Look, and driving creates a compact Feeling as in a today Luxury Car. Can say: "Forward (Look) to the Presence!"

Knocking on the Car: "Is it Wood or is it Sheet Metal?". No audible Differences. This is not a “Make-Up” for the Vision, but for the Sense of Hearing.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-11 1:28 PM




(DSC02641L Covered Rear Wheel House.jpg)



(DSC02642L Four Panels Meet in Trunk.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02641L Covered Rear Wheel House.jpg (117KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments DSC02642L Four Panels Meet in Trunk.jpg (88KB - 324 downloads)
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Windsor59
Posted 2009-01-11 4:03 PM (#158561 - in reply to #158533)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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I must say what work you've invested in Dodgen with different solutions. Fun and intresant reading for all of us. Serious work.
Do you have a story about your Dodgen (imported or sold in the new Europe?) How long have you owned it?
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-12 5:00 PM (#158677 - in reply to #158561)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Joakim, in order not to interrupt this serie I will come back to your questions later on in another thread. -SERGE -
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-12 5:03 PM (#158679 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Car Protection: An Oldtimer is usually at nicest when the restoration has completed. From now it starts to waste. It should be protected where parked for longer periods, even in a Single Garage.

There are many better and more solid Car Covers as the one I use. For Inside Purpose the Cover should absorb sand and dust on both sides, hence no scratches when moving it or hook on the Car; then be partially removable without the need of inter fold, and washable.

I found the “Auto-Pyjama”, 100% Cotton and fitting exactly to the Dodge. Cotton in best for polishing, thus the car will rather be polished than scratched when covering, or rubbing the edges.

The ’59 Dodge Custom Royal has particularly critical Chrome Edges: the Front Eye-Brows and the Rear Fins. When not covered I protect them by coating with an static-adhesive thin Transparent Foil, well known as used in the Kitchen for Foods. Recommended on long Trips at high Speed too, preventing the Eye-Brows to go sandblasted, as happens to the Windshield. This Foil is as well useful for packaging Spare Parts: they are protected and cognizable, no adhesive Tape needed.

Happy to say: After Ten Years since Restoration the Chrome Parts don’t have any Scratches, as the Paint too – the Car has never been polished.

Hint: Best Brilliance on Chrome I get with Glass Cleaner (before Photo-Shootings) – shiny as a Mirror, no Tracks left, and as important not removing any Chrome.:) :)

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-13 3:14 AM




(DSC02644L Dust Protected Car.jpg)



(DSC02648L Discovered Right Rear.jpg)



(DSC02655L Shiny Unprotected Eye-Brow.jpg)



(DSC02668L Foil Protected Eye-Brow.jpg)



(DSC02666L Foil Packaged Spare Parts.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02644L Dust Protected Car.jpg (42KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments DSC02648L Discovered Right Rear.jpg (59KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments DSC02655L Shiny Unprotected Eye-Brow.jpg (75KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments DSC02668L Foil Protected Eye-Brow.jpg (72KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments DSC02666L Foil Packaged Spare Parts.jpg (55KB - 324 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2009-01-13 2:02 AM (#158744 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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This thread is the most interesting lately! Sermey openly shares his innovative and intelligent tricks for to achieve an improvement. Now surely the hard-core OEM guys wont change a thing on their cars, but I will use some of the hints in my car. Thank you Sermey!
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-13 3:29 AM (#158746 - in reply to #158744)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Thank you Swen. You said correctly as is the rule: "The hard-core OEM guys wont change a thing on their cars".

Most "improvements" can easily be restored to its Original, even at the place. Others are not visible at all, many are for the personal comfort and security.  But I agree with them: at a glance the Car should show up as Original - and it does when required.

On the other side: "The (Car-) Show must go on!" - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2009-01-13 3:43 AM
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-13 2:37 PM (#158799 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear Lamps: The Sockets got stainless / rustfree Bolts (M5) fixed by a counter-nut. The assembled Unit is mounted with Wing Nuts (no Tools required). The Lenses got rustfree Thread Screws (M4) too, the Self-Cutting Screws could brake the Lenses locally. As Gasket I used Rubber Sealing O-Rings, leading outside the two Mounting Screws.Two diametric notches have to be grinded as illustrated (Ring: external Diameter 85mm, Thickness 5mm). So, the O-Rings fit and seal as Originals.

I was always fascinated by the broad Rear Lamps on American Cars. As Youngster I could guess the Cars Make at Night, just by their Rear Lights. On my American Cars I wanted more: a Bright Red Glow. I painted the Reflectors from Silver to White, dispersed the Bulbs Light over the Surface of the Lenses, and removed the bright Spot of the Bulbs by a Sticker. On the ‘59 Dodge I wanted a similar Glow Effect.

First I convert the two Back Lights into Stop/Directional Lights by changing the Lenses and the Wiring accordingly. The Back Lights, anyway at the wrong Place for a useable Light, I moved under the Rear Bumpers, in mounting two adjustable, contemporary Chrome Lamps. These Back Lamps gives a wide white Light where needed to see at Night when parking. Beside the Exhaust Outlets I find their aspect nice and discreet (see earlier Pics).

To reduce the Spot Effect of the Bulbs I clamped a Light Dispersing Foil inside on the Lenses Surface (Folder available in any Office Shop).

Now, the Red Light got a Glowing Effect, another Eye-Catcher at the Night Cruise.

Hint: For a homogenous Red Light the Lenses should be from the same Production Batch.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-13 3:41 PM




(DSC02693lL Rear Lamp Unit.jpg)



(DSC02691L Zoomed View.jpg)



(DSC02684L Rear Lamp Trunk View.jpg)



(DSC02703L Notched Seal O-Ring.jpg)



(DSC02707L Dispersion of the Spot.jpg)



(DSC02673L Rear Glow.jpg)



(DSC02677L Zoomed Rear Glow.jpg)



(DSC00023L Bright Stop Light.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02693lL Rear Lamp Unit.jpg (66KB - 327 downloads)
Attachments DSC02691L Zoomed View.jpg (68KB - 311 downloads)
Attachments DSC02684L Rear Lamp Trunk View.jpg (123KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments DSC02703L Notched Seal O-Ring.jpg (66KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments DSC02707L Dispersion of the Spot.jpg (43KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments DSC02673L Rear Glow.jpg (65KB - 295 downloads)
Attachments DSC02677L Zoomed Rear Glow.jpg (70KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments DSC00023L Bright Stop Light.jpg (89KB - 311 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2009-01-13 5:56 PM (#158831 - in reply to #158799)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Very nice effect with the dispersion material. It doesn't seem to dim the overall output at all. Did you put the dispersion material just on the sides of the lens or on the back as well? What did you use to attach it there?
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-14 2:14 AM (#158884 - in reply to #158831)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Powerflite - 2009-01-13 11:56 PM Very nice effect with the dispersion material. It doesn't seem to dim the overall output at all. Did you put the dispersion material just on the sides of the lens or on the back as well? What did you use to attach it there?

About Dim: This is comparable to an opaque and a transparent Home Bulb, both 25W or 40W. Must check for the best Foil, there are various thickness and surfaces.

Attaching: Inside the Lenses the reinforcement for the two screws goes all along. There need two Foils, on one side and on the other side, round bent and just clamped in between. Cut the first “on the job” to lie against the Lenses Inside Surface, then copy all others. On the Back nothing, no considerable improvement. Can put a small white Sticker on Top of the Bulb to remove the bright Spots, see Pic: Bright Stop Lamp. Sorry, could not remove the Lenses for shootings -> fixed and risk to brake.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-14 2:29 AM
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-14 10:59 AM (#158925 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Car Height: Lifting or lowering a Car, there are many Opinions and Preferences. It depends on the Car too, and how the Design with the Side Mouldings already influences the Aspect.

On the ‘59 Dodge I found best to be about  flat, but never lower on the Rear. Thus, I set the Rear to be 3cm Higher than the Front (as all previous Pics), measured on the Side Moulding, Front at their End and Rear over the Wheel. The lowest Front Height was given by the Tires (235/70/15) just not touching the Wheel House when the Steering is fully turned to one Side. With the Air-Controlled Shock Absorbers I could lift the Car to the desired Rear Height. The Air Valve for the setting is intended to be mounted beside the Fuel Port, I left it in the Trunk near the Antenna.

For your own Consideration: I have lifted my Car on the Computer - other Prospects!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-14 11:12 AM




(DSC02710L Adjustable Shock Absorber.jpg)



(DSC02728L Air Valve.jpg)



(DSC00044L Rear 3cm Lifted.jpg)



(DSC00044L All Lifted.jpg)



(DSC00044L All Lowered .jpg)



(DSC00044L Rear Lowered.jpg)



(DSC00044L Rear Lifted.jpg)



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Attachments DSC02710L Adjustable Shock Absorber.jpg (56KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments DSC02728L Air Valve.jpg (41KB - 296 downloads)
Attachments DSC00044L Rear 3cm Lifted.jpg (70KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments DSC00044L All Lifted.jpg (71KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments DSC00044L All Lowered .jpg (67KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments DSC00044L Rear Lowered.jpg (69KB - 352 downloads)
Attachments DSC00044L Rear Lifted.jpg (71KB - 307 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-15 7:22 PM (#159105 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Removing Pits: When I purchased my Dodge the Pot Metal Parts have been rechromed over the Pits. Fortunately I could interchange all these Parts to a non restored Coronet. The owner was happy to get for free newly rechromed Parts, I too to have the Originals.

When removing Pits it is important that the Geometry remains waveless and as Original. If not, any unevenness will be visible when mirroring. I wanted all my Chrome Parts to be “mirror-proof” and flawless.

I don’t know how others remove Pits, so I did it my way. But first all the Chrome and the Nickel on the items had to be removed (galvanic).

1a Punching with Peening Tool: Take an adjustable Point Puncher and round the Point (3mm). On the Rear Side of the Pit to be removed mark a black Spot (Permanent Marker). Hold the item flat on a hard Wood Surface and punch on the Mark until the Pit has disappeared. Adjust the Puncher Force for at least 5 Punches needed. When the other Side has buckled out about 0.1-0.2mm, the Surface can be leveled by using an ultra fine Rasp (no Abrasives). Then polish, but only when the Geometry is corrected.

1b Spinning with Crusher: This modified Tool is intended for Pits not accessible with the Peening Tool, as some Surfaces under the Eye-Brows. The Rounding and the Height of the interchangeable Steel Nails can be changed as needed. Leveling and polishing as described.

2a Filling with Tin: Chrome and Nickel already removed, let apply a strong Copper Plating. Then put the item on the Cooker (kitchen), adjust the Thermostat to be about 140 Degree, and now with an Electric Tin Solder heath locally until melting, applying flux and tin (0.3mm /180deg, as used for micro electronics) just as much as needed to fill the Pit. Then remove the Solder instantly and go to the next Pit. When all is done, level the Surface as described, and copper-plate for the Finish.

2b Filling with Paste: As in 2a, the Surface needs a Replating with Copper to be cleaned in the Pits. Then, instead of Tin,  fill the Pits with a electrical conductive Paste (3M), similar as used for rechroming Plastics  and proceed as decribed.

Microscopic best I found the first three Methods when possible, because of the all Metallic Transition. In some cases a Combination of them is needed.

Once started and experienced with, it worked better than imagined. The final Brilliance of the item, when Nickel and Chrome plated, is given by the polishing of the last Copper Plating. This is most important Section for a brillant track-free Chrome. For that reason I have polished myself all Parts. For the Rear Lamp Sockets I did an Adapter to mount them on the Drilling Machine for grinding out thes many Pits. These maNot having Internet and eBay at this time I could not buy NOS Parts. Even these Parts are mostly minor pittet and have to be restored. Anyway, a good and friendly Relationship with the Galvanic Man is required.

The Chrome Parts on the Pics above show how the Geometry is restored to its Original, a flat undistorted mirroring surface all around!

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-16 2:10 AM




(DSC02738L Adjustable Punch Markers.jpg)



(DSC02734L Pointed & Rounded.jpg)



(DSC02743L Modified Crusher.jpg)



(DSC02742L Inserts Roofing Nails.jpg)



(Rear Emblem L.jpg)



(Side Moulding L.jpg)



(Rear Lamp Sockets L.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02738L Adjustable Punch Markers.jpg (51KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments DSC02734L Pointed & Rounded.jpg (52KB - 282 downloads)
Attachments DSC02743L Modified Crusher.jpg (34KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments DSC02742L Inserts Roofing Nails.jpg (49KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments Rear Emblem L.jpg (61KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments Side Moulding L.jpg (81KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments Rear Lamp Sockets L.jpg (81KB - 317 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-16 2:36 PM (#159205 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Directional Flasher: It had happened to me some times, driving in my Topless Convertible to the Highway, and the activated Directional Flasher not turned off. Because of the bright Sunlight I neither could see the Green Flashing Lamps on the Instruments Panel, nor could hear the Flasher switching under the Dashboard due to the Streets Noise.

1. I connected a Miniature Buzzer (+12V) to the Input Port (red) and Output Port (blue) of the Directional Flasher. This Flasher Output leads to the Directional Switch on the Steering Wheel, and then to the corresponding Lamps, left or right. The Buzzer will sound anytime when the Flasher Switch is open and the Directional Switch ON, means in opposite Cycle as the Lamps.

When an electronic Flasher Unit (not a bi-metal) in used, then connect the Buzzer to the Output Port of the Flasher (red) and to the Ground (blue). 

2. The Buzzer can directly be attached to both Wires leading to the Directional Lamps too. Because it is a DC (Direct Current) Device, a Full Wave Rectifier (50V/200mA or higher)) must be pre-connected. It turns the Supply Voltage in any Direction to the correct Polarity. Even when there is one commun Bulb for Directional and Brake, as most Cars had at this time, the Buzzer will sound only when only one Side is ON. Thus when braking there is no Voltage across the two Wires of the ON Lamps, and of course no buzzing.

The Loudness is adjusted acoustically by wrapping something around the Buzzer and / or by hiding it under the Dashboard. To know: the bi-metal Flasher is short-circuit at no Current.

Now, the Buzzer produces a well-known intermitting alert, audible even in noisy ambient, no need to check the Instruments Panel, a relaxed Concentration on the Traffic.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-17 2:00 AM




(DSC02784L Rectifier & Buzzer.jpg)



(DSC02785L Wiring Diagram.jpg)



(DSC02747L Left Directional Light ON.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02784L Rectifier & Buzzer.jpg (58KB - 353 downloads)
Attachments DSC02785L Wiring Diagram.jpg (68KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments DSC02747L Left Directional Light ON.jpg (63KB - 343 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-17 12:50 PM (#159308 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear Center Brake Light: The new four glowing Rear Lamps instead originally two of them I still found insufficient for a Show-Effect, namely at Night. The next way was to add a Center Brake Light. The demands on this Feature, should:

- match to the body in Size and Color as designed for

- be easy to remove at anytime and at the place

- not leave any Marks when taken off

- show an intense Red Light in the same shade as the other Rear Lamps.

Among many offered Kits I selected the best matching one.I lowered the Lamp Unit by removing the bottoms Body, attached two springy mounting Brackets in thin Stainless Steel inside connected to the Minus of the Bulbs, and then painted the Body in the Cars Color.

The Lamp Unit is fixed by two Screws for the Tops Cover. The springy Pression of the Brackets hold it tight on the Cars Surface. Pushing by side the Center Chrome Coupling of the Mouldings there is access to the single wire leading to the Rear Brake Lamp, as Power Supply. To know: When there is a combined Lamp for Directional and Brake, as most Car had at this time, then the Supply should be branched directly to the Brake Light Switch.

Now, all initial demands could be completed. This additional Feature is another attractive Eye-Catcher and improves the Cars Show-Effect by an exciting Red Glow when braking. Another item instantly removable to its Original!

(my Digital Camera doesn’t like this high Contrast Bright Red!)



Edited by sermey 2009-01-17 1:30 PM




(DSC02803L Brake Light Unit Top View.jpg)



(DSC02799L Brake Light Unit Rear View.jpg)



(DSC02804L Brake Light Unit Ready for Mount.jpg)



(DSC02794L Brake Light Unit Connected.jpg)



(DSC02788 Brake Light Unit Mounted.jpg)



(DSC02786L Center Brake Light ON.jpg)



(DSC00001L Brake Lamps Side View.jpg)



(DSC00007L Night Lights.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC02803L Brake Light Unit Top View.jpg (28KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments DSC02799L Brake Light Unit Rear View.jpg (62KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments DSC02804L Brake Light Unit Ready for Mount.jpg (38KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments DSC02794L Brake Light Unit Connected.jpg (54KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments DSC02788 Brake Light Unit Mounted.jpg (33KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments DSC02786L Center Brake Light ON.jpg (45KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments DSC00001L Brake Lamps Side View.jpg (79KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments DSC00007L Night Lights.jpg (71KB - 336 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-18 12:17 PM (#159427 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Tag Plate: On a nice Car the License Plate should be as nice, for most people look at this. The Expert however is interested in the Tag Plate. This Plate is as the Birth Certificate of the Car, an important integral Part and merits to be cared. What a Problem when this Plate is missing, I just read in another Thread!

When restoring a Car, many paint over the Tag Plate. Made in Aluminum, a polishing gives an additional decorative Character. It can be anodized in any Colors as illustrated. This Golden would better match to another Paint. (the lower Shadow is the Hood Reflection). For a fix mount I used Aluminum Rivets instead of Screws, polished too. Small effort, nice Effect.

Now, at the first glance the Expert will get an excellent Impression of the Car, the next Look at the Tag Plate he will be positively surprised!!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-18 12:31 PM




(DSC02817L Tag Plate.jpg)



(DSC01376L Polished Tag Plate.jpg)



(DSC01376L Anodized Tag Plate.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC02817L Tag Plate.jpg (48KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments DSC01376L Polished Tag Plate.jpg (46KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments DSC01376L Anodized Tag Plate.jpg (59KB - 329 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-21 7:36 AM (#159796 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Hood Isolation: Many Hoods comes with poor or even with no Isolation at all. Knocking on the Hood is an acoustical Check how the Hood is isolated. Isolation means damping of Drumming due to Vibrations and Motor Noise, but will isolate from Heath too.

I put an Isolation of a today Car, usually made in one piece, for they are heath resistant and attenuate the Noise considerably. To keep the Design of the Under Hood the Isolation is cut in Segments to fit in and then glue them on. Take your attention to the upper Rubber Strip. This prevents hot Air Circulation from the Engine Compartment turning back to the Cooler when the Car stands idling. (the white shadows are sunshine reflections of the Air Cleaner and others)

Must see and hear the Difference!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-21 10:46 AM




(DSC00069L Hood Isolation.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC00069L Hood Isolation.jpg (109KB - 330 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-21 1:34 PM (#159822 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Radiator Cap: Many small polished items enhance the Status of a Car. Here some visible Distinctions more. Just to see.

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-21 4:02 PM




(DSC00079L Polished Radiator &-Steering Pump Cap.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC00079L Polished Radiator &-Steering Pump Cap.jpg (86KB - 351 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-25 5:25 AM (#160332 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Convertible Top: A white Top is nice for any Bodys Color – except for white. Because Top and Body in white never match exactly, one will always appear as dirty. Thus, I switched to a black Top, matching best to my black/white Interior.

Due to the slanted Rear Back Seats I had to do minor Modifications on the Tops Mechanic. Simultaneously I lowered it for Top DOWN Position, to reduce the old fashioned “carriage” Look. By modifying the arms in shape, length and crops, the Mechanics went considerably lower, resulting only +1.5cm to the Height of the Body Sides with mounted Top (see earlier Pics of the Car too). As the Picture shows, now there is just enough room for the Top behind the slanted Rear Back Seats.

Modified, complementary croped Arms for lowering the Mechanics are illustrated. The left and the right side Arms must have identical mirrored shape. To protect the Top, all Edges of the Main Arms are rounded (for the finish use abrasive paper at Top UP). Customized Stainless Screws and Nylon Bushings with borders (to put between the Arms) assure a frictionless, inaudible and smooth Operation, no needing oil lubrication. Another functional and visible improvement!

To know: Important for lowest Top DOWN and minor Wrinkles is a carefully correct folding. This needs about 2 – 3 Steps. The Vinyl Window I left always closed at Top DOWN. Without Top and the Cylinders disconnected, the Mechanics should be moved easily up and down by hand. The Top DOWN Height then is lower than the Body Sides.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-25 4:49 PM




(DSC02856L Modified Top Screws and Bushings.jpg)



(DSC02849L Modified Croped Arm.jpg)



(DSC02936L Other Side Main Arm Crop.jpg)



(DSC02851L Top Lifted.jpg)



(DSC02825L Top DOWN Folded.jpg)



(DSC02828L Top full DOWN in Side Panel.jpg)



(DSC00082L Lowered Top Covered.jpg)



(DSC00096L Top Up Back View.jpg)



(DSC00094L Top UP.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC02856L Modified Top Screws and Bushings.jpg (63KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments DSC02849L Modified Croped Arm.jpg (66KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments DSC02936L Other Side Main Arm Crop.jpg (72KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments DSC02851L Top Lifted.jpg (64KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments DSC02825L Top DOWN Folded.jpg (89KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments DSC02828L Top full DOWN in Side Panel.jpg (82KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments DSC00082L Lowered Top Covered.jpg (54KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments DSC00096L Top Up Back View.jpg (96KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments DSC00094L Top UP.jpg (86KB - 347 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-25 4:33 PM (#160402 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Fuse Box: When I switched from the Generator (30A) to an Alternator (60A) it was obvious to install two new Fuse Boxes. I went sick to search the hidden Fuses under the Dashboard for a replacement, not seeing anything. Then I changed the Wires to double Diameter. The new Fuse Boxes use Color encoded Fuses, easy to remove with the special Tool. I mounted them on the left front Wheelhouse for direct access, first both on a metal bar, then this unit with two longer screws from center to the body, as can see on the last Pic. All "fused" cables leading underneath invisible to the thick Wire Channel, then to the Instruments Panel. The transparent Covers with Rubber Seals make them water proof and allow an instant visual Check of the Fuses.

The One-Wire Alternator allow a simple wiring: from the Alternator to the First Fuse Box, then leading the wire (yellow) through the Ampere Gauge in the Instruments Panel, then back (red) to the Second Fuse Box, and finally ending at the Battery (+). The First Box supplies all items needed to be measured, the second one the momentary High Current items directly from the Battery, not measured such as Starter, Power Windows, Convertible Top, needing Fuse Values up to 40A. The new Voltage Regulator is still there but not connected.

Now, at a "Black-Out" by a defective Fuse: just lift the Hood, look at the Fuses and replace the defective one!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-26 8:29 AM




(DSC02890L One Wire Alternator.jpg)



(DSC02967L Wiring Diagram.jpg)



(DSC02963L Tool & Color Coded Fuses.jpg)



(DSC02966L Rubber Sealed Fuse Box Covers.jpg)



(DSC02959L Opened Fuse Boxes.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC02890L One Wire Alternator.jpg (82KB - 301 downloads)
Attachments DSC02967L Wiring Diagram.jpg (49KB - 276 downloads)
Attachments DSC02963L Tool & Color Coded Fuses.jpg (56KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments DSC02966L Rubber Sealed Fuse Box Covers.jpg (61KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments DSC02959L Opened Fuse Boxes.jpg (81KB - 324 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-28 11:33 AM (#160785 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

1959 Dodge HubCaps Paint: As the ConvertibleTop I got the HubCaps in white Color. White painted HubCaps are nice for any Bodys Color – except for white. Because HubCaps as the Convertible Top white never match exactly, one will always appear as dirty. Thus, I switched to black HubCaps, matching best to my black/white Interior.

First I removed the old outworn Paint by a solvent. Then I polished all the HubCaps Surface for a new look. Masking around all the many squares and then spraying in black, there was no chance to get a satisfactory result. I had to find another solution, already mentioned in an earlier post. I made Steel Stamping Tools for the two Square Sizes and stamped manually Stickers from professional, all weather-proof adhesive Material, as used for long lasting Outdoor Promotion on Cars. The same I did with the Center of the Spinners.

Now, the “new paint” has all around sharply defined Edges as never feasible with Paint, the Squares are identical, and they can be washed free of damage. At a Glance, the HubCaps look as new and never used, another nice Upgrade of every 1959 Dodge. :)

To know: Just now I got a limited Quantity of Precision Laser-Cut Stickers and offer them at first to FWL-Members. A Set, in White or in Black, fitting four HubCaps (314 Square + 6 Knight Stickers, Application), covering costs ($30.00 + $10 Package & Shipment, PayPal sermey@bluewin.ch).



Edited by sermey 2009-01-28 12:29 PM




(DSC00058L Old Outworn Paint.jpg)



(DSC02977L Stamping Tools.jpg)



(DSC02970L CAD Design A4.jpg)



(DSC00025L White Center Sticker.jpg)



(DSC01930L Black Stickers.jpg)



(DSC02972L Black Center Sticker.jpg)



(DSC02975L All Stickers on HubCap.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC00058L Old Outworn Paint.jpg (65KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments DSC02977L Stamping Tools.jpg (58KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments DSC02970L CAD Design A4.jpg (84KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments DSC00025L White Center Sticker.jpg (103KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments DSC01930L Black Stickers.jpg (80KB - 340 downloads)
Attachments DSC02972L Black Center Sticker.jpg (90KB - 281 downloads)
Attachments DSC02975L All Stickers on HubCap.jpg (76KB - 317 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-29 9:32 AM (#160939 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Automatic Beam-Changer: This Option was not on my Car when purchased. One day I found solely the Original Sensor Module, and I thought: “Why not?”

I designed a Transistor Trigger Circuit, soldered on a Board and mount under the Dashboard for direct access. A Printed Circuit Board (PCB) would have a quarter of Size. To eliminate the often discussed Flashing in Operate Mode, I set a higher Hysteresis (= Difference between ON – OFF Transition) and a longer ON Time-Constant (10 millisec for Beam OFF, +2 sec for Beam ON), as a manual Switching. The preset of the Sensitivity is done by the Trimmer on the Circuit Board (not visible), directing in the Garage a Pocket Lamp to the Beamer Unit to simulate the Light of an oncoming Car. The fine Adjustment when driving by turning the rear Knob on the Sensor Unit.

Now, the Automatic Headlight Control works excellently, but still remains critical in some Light Conditions due to the limited Viewing Angle of the Photo-Cell. Another Optional Equipment, not necessarily needed, but always nice to have. :

To know: the Automatic Inside Mirror  -  MirrorMatic uses the same basic circuit, both use the same Vacuum Tube 12k5. A PCB Transistor Circuit would fit in this Housing, or the Tube could simply be substituted by adequate Transistors, directly plug in the Tube Socket (12V Operation).



Edited by sermey 2009-01-29 9:51 AM




(1 Ross Roy - Automatic Beam-Changer L.jpg)



(2 DSC03002L Transistor Circuit & Relais.jpg)



(3 DSC02982L Beamer Unit .jpg)



(4 DSC03000L Beamer OverView.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 Ross Roy - Automatic Beam-Changer L.jpg (54KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments 2 DSC03002L Transistor Circuit & Relais.jpg (89KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 3 DSC02982L Beamer Unit .jpg (47KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 4 DSC03000L Beamer OverView.jpg (81KB - 336 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-30 7:08 PM (#161163 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dimmer Switch: Even when not directly visible, this Switch can easy be upgraded just by putting a Rubber Cap (not Plastic, Bore Dia. 22mm x 20), as used for Chairs.

Now, the covered Knob not only looks more discreet and similar to the Windshield Washer Pad, applying the Dimmer Switch feels much more comfortable. Comparing both Pictures it even seems, without the Rubber Cap something is missing. A quite simply improvement for any Oldtimer!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-31 4:39 AM




(DSC03036L Rubber Cap.jpg)



(DSC03051L Original Dimmer Switch.jpg)



(DSC03050L Dimmer Switch with Rubber Cap.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC03036L Rubber Cap.jpg (39KB - 301 downloads)
Attachments DSC03051L Original Dimmer Switch.jpg (67KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments DSC03050L Dimmer Switch with Rubber Cap.jpg (67KB - 324 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-31 2:59 PM (#161251 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Sun Visors: On a Convertible the Sun Visors have an additional Function. In slightly higher than in horizontal Position they can reduce the Turbulences at open Top, acting as a virtual Extension of the Windshield. Then they are additionally exposed to a displacement.

To tighten a hanging Sun Visor, pull it out (may need some force), put in a parallel vice between two plane planks, protect it as illustrated, then squeeze a little bit in several steps until fixed enough.

Now, the Sun Visors remain in any circumstances at the preset Position.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-31 3:04 PM




(DSC03074L Removed Sun Visor.jpg)



(DSC03069L Retense The Sun Visor.jpg)



(DSC03068L Sun Visor Up.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC03074L Removed Sun Visor.jpg (49KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments DSC03069L Retense The Sun Visor.jpg (71KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments DSC03068L Sun Visor Up.jpg (78KB - 305 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-02-01 7:44 AM (#161298 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time.

The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims.

I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps.

Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection.

(can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as)



Edited by sermey 2009-02-01 12:24 PM




(Original Wheel and Parking Lamp.jpg)



(1 DSC00001L Coker Tires 235-70-15.jpg)



(2 DSC03078L 15 Inch Decorative Stainless Rings.jpg)



(3 DSC00051L Soldered 15 Inch Ring.jpg)



(4 DSC03081L Inner Border of HubCap.jpg)



(5 DSCN0012L 15 Inch Wheel Assembled.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Original Wheel and Parking Lamp.jpg (73KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments 1 DSC00001L Coker Tires 235-70-15.jpg (101KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 2 DSC03078L 15 Inch Decorative Stainless Rings.jpg (67KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments 3 DSC00051L Soldered 15 Inch Ring.jpg (68KB - 276 downloads)
Attachments 4 DSC03081L Inner Border of HubCap.jpg (89KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 5 DSCN0012L 15 Inch Wheel Assembled.jpg (97KB - 313 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-12-04 5:00 PM (#199485 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND
obsolete

Edited by sermey 2009-12-04 5:07 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-12-04 5:00 PM (#199486 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dome Nuts and Caps: These devices remove optically bad nuts, covers them or even protect them. Dome Nuts in polished stainless steel may appear as small diamonds.

A low-cost "Jewel+ for your car! - SERGE -  :laugh:





(01 Dome Nuts - Caps DSC03156.jpg)



(02 DomeCap DSC03154.jpg)



(03 DomeNuts Connector DSC00632a.jpg)



(04 DomeNuts Induction Coil.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Dome Nuts - Caps DSC03156.jpg (48KB - 302 downloads)
Attachments 02 DomeCap DSC03154.jpg (53KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments 03 DomeNuts Connector DSC00632a.jpg (55KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 04 DomeNuts Induction Coil.jpg (79KB - 281 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-12-06 5:36 AM (#199675 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Plugged Instruments and Speedometer Units: Working on this Units, what ever the brand of the car, was always a mess for not scratching the painted surrounding, interrupt unintentionally a connection, produce accidentally a short-circuit (when battery unplugged) and even to fix them when working. On newer cars the Units can be removed by unplugging many cables. On our FL-cars, except for the lamps, most cables are fixed.


To avoid these problems, before restoring the gauges, I did these Units pluggable by a multiple pin connector. First I replaced all wires by 50cm long, flexible ones at adequate profile and different colors. When tested I assembled them to a common harness, then cut it and inserted a high current, multiple pin connector. For the most important wires (GND and +12V), delivering the main power, I used two pins in parallel, all pins being soldered. On the Instuments Unit the harness-outlet was set behind the headlamp-switch for an easy turn away to the right side (in the pics folded for re-install the unit).


The remaining connections to remove individually are the speedometer cable, the oil pressure hose and the clock adjustment cable. The ammeter loop, with the cable leading from the one wire alternator to the battery, got a separate interconnection (100A). The thinner black cables leeds to the battery-box (Type 1.5V, UM-6) just deposit under the dashboard for the quartzed clock, working non-stop since already 4 years. On the Speedometer Unit, the brown capton-adhesive tape fixes the fine wires for the four green Micro-LEDs set on the glass end face for an additional impressive illumination of the speed numbers (see Pic above in "Directional Flasher").


Now, a stressfree comfortable handling of the Instruments is possible, beside the dashboard or on a working table! – SERGE - ;)  ;



Edited by sermey 2009-12-06 11:00 AM




(2009-04-23 DSC03212 Speedometer Unit.jpg)



(2009-04-23 DSC03206 Front Instruments Panel.jpg)



(2009-04-23 DSC03205 Rear Instruments Panel.jpg)



(2009-04-23 DSC03204 View Under Dashboard.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 2009-04-23 DSC03212 Speedometer Unit.jpg (58KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 2009-04-23 DSC03206 Front Instruments Panel.jpg (82KB - 288 downloads)
Attachments 2009-04-23 DSC03205 Rear Instruments Panel.jpg (88KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 2009-04-23 DSC03204 View Under Dashboard.jpg (129KB - 277 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-13 4:36 PM (#209364 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Rechromed Substitute Parts: On the market there are many rechromed parts available as substitutes, additional eye-catchers. Here two samples.

The Generator Bracket. Fits directly. For a nicer look can be shortened for best match, as I did here.

The Oil DipStick with the Tube. I bent the tube according the position I liked. Then, unfortunately the Oil DipStick couldn't be inserted anymore in the tube. Easy trick: Just twist it! :laugh:   - SERGE -





(Rechromed Generator Braket LL.jpg)



(Rechromed Distributor HoldDown LL.jpg)



(Rechromed Oil DipStick LL.jpg)



(Rechromed Oil DipStick Twisted LL.jpg)



(Rechromed DipStick in Tube LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Rechromed Generator Braket LL.jpg (92KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments Rechromed Distributor HoldDown LL.jpg (75KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments Rechromed Oil DipStick LL.jpg (64KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments Rechromed Oil DipStick Twisted LL.jpg (40KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments Rechromed DipStick in Tube LL.jpg (97KB - 251 downloads)
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1959 Belvedere Conv
Posted 2010-02-13 8:49 PM (#209388 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1084
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Location: Arvada, Colorado (NW Denver Metro Area)
Serge, You have a beautiful well detailed car. You should go back in time an be a stylist for Chrysler back in the Forward Look days. Though my 59 Plymouth convert is not at your higher trim level, I will use a lot of the detail points to bring out the best in my instrument panel.

PS I have never seen here in the States Dupli-color in the RAL color system. I am in the electrical business now (20 years )and we use the RAL paint system for coloring large electrical enclosures. I will have to see if they market these RAL colors in the US of A. It would help me a lot in getting touch up paint.

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sermey
Posted 2010-02-15 10:33 AM (#209646 - in reply to #209388)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

1959 Belvedere Conv - 2010-02-14 2:49 AM Serge, You have a beautiful well detailed car. You should go back in time an be a stylist for Chrysler back in the Forward Look days. Though my 59 Plymouth convert is not at your higher trim level, I will use a lot of the detail points to bring out the best in my instrument panel. PS I have never seen here in the States Dupli-color in the RAL color system. I am in the electrical business now (20 years )and we use the RAL paint system for coloring large electrical enclosures. I will have to see if they market these RAL colors in the US of A. It would help me a lot in getting touch up paint.

Thank you, John. Every one has his own talents. We all have got them for free. The ones uses them more, the others less. I think, most owner of an oldtimer will find and trim his car to a higher level, as soon he has done all needed restorations. Owning just one car is much easier.

The RAL Colors are well defined Color Standards and available on a CD, indicating the RGB (Red-Green-Blue) percents, awell known by  Photoshop-Users. Thus, any RAL Color can be mixed accordingly, and get exactly the same tone.



Edited by sermey 2010-02-15 10:49 AM
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-15 10:39 AM (#209647 - in reply to #209364)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND
Oil Cap on Valve Cover: This is another part that can be directly replaced by a similar rechromed one, also available on the market.
Here I preferred to keep the Original Cap of the 1959 DODGE with the script "OIL" on top. Bevor rechroming, the steel filter preventing oil to leak on the valve cover, has to be removed. It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier. A fine steel Wool would clog when oily and prevent the needed air breathing.

Valve Cover: There are as well rechromed valve covers available, What you see are the rechromed originals. To rechrome with polishing costs more than than a replacement. - SERGE -


Edited by sermey 2010-02-15 1:14 PM




(1959 Original Rechromed Oil Cap LL.jpg)



(Oil Cap Stainless Steel Wool LL.jpg)



(361 Oil Cap on Valve Cover LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1959 Original Rechromed Oil Cap LL.jpg (55KB - 353 downloads)
Attachments Oil Cap Stainless Steel Wool LL.jpg (66KB - 392 downloads)
Attachments 361 Oil Cap on Valve Cover LL.jpg (126KB - 385 downloads)
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1959Dodge
Posted 2010-02-15 1:22 PM (#209657 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Nice job on the car "Make up". Maybe when you are done, we can switch cars for a while and you can do mine.
Or you could come out here, weather is great today, probably be close to 30C so come here, I give ya free room and board, while you update the makeup on ny car!!!

Gary
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-17 11:10 AM (#210069 - in reply to #209388)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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1959 Belvedere Conv - 2010-02-14 2:49 AM Serge, You have a beautiful well detailed car. You should go back in time an be a stylist for Chrysler back in the Forward Look days. 

John, I have done some small stylist modifications, Virgil Exner would even be happy about - but not the purists.

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sermey
Posted 2010-02-17 11:14 AM (#210073 - in reply to #209657)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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1959Dodge - 2010-02-15 7:22 PM Nice job on the car "Make up". Maybe when you are done . . .

Sorry, Gary, it is never done. The show goes on! A never ending process.  - SERGE -

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wizard
Posted 2010-02-17 12:00 PM (#210085 - in reply to #209647)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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sermey - 2010-02-15 4:39 PM

Here I preferred to keep the Original Cap of the 1959 DODGE with the script "OIL" on top. Bevor rechroming, the steel filter preventing oil to leak on the valve cover, has to be removed. It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier. A fine steel Wool would clog when oily and prevent the needed air breathing. - SERGE -


I used exactly the same material and method with Oil Cap - mine is painted black though.
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Windsor59
Posted 2010-02-17 12:27 PM (#210092 - in reply to #210085)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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wizard - 2010-02-17 12:00 PM

sermey - 2010-02-15 4:39 PM

Here I preferred to keep the Original Cap of the 1959 DODGE with the script "OIL" on top. Bevor rechroming, the steel filter preventing oil to leak on the valve cover, has to be removed. It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier. A fine steel Wool would clog when oily and prevent the needed air breathing. - SERGE -


I used exactly the same material and method with Oil Cap - mine is painted black though.


OK! thanks for this tips: It can be replaced by a rough stainless steel wool, as used for cleaning pans, inserted with a long-nosed plier
I must changes the stainless steel wool in my oil cap.
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-24 11:07 AM (#211457 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Constant Voltage Regulator: This is a thermo-mechanical contact breaker, and cannot be repaired (metallic sealed). It's output is a pulsing 12V,  resulting in an average output of 5Volt. This voltage can only be measured with a long-time integrating instrument. A connected 12V instruments bulb will flash correspondingly. The regulator is used to operate both, the fuel level and the temperature gauges.

I found an electronic device for direct replacement and easy mounting. It doesn't need any additional components, produces a constant Voltage of +5.0V within an input range of  9 - 30 Volts. This device is temperature and short circuit protected, therefore cannot be destroyed. Just move the input and output connection of the breaker to the input / output of the electronic device. The output leads to the fuel level and temperature gauges. The ground (-) is already connected by the fixing screw of the original regulator (heat sink!). Thus the center pad (ground) could be cut. The maximum output current of 1.5A is more than double needed by the fuel level and temperature gauges at full readings.

The readings for two Input Voltages of 9 and 18 Volt, and the water temperature gauge loaded for "normal" reading (sensor simulation R = 22 Ohm, see Pic) have been tested. The output of the device shows a constant value of 4.90 Volt. The original voltage regulator can be left there as is, but unconnected, or it can be removed as shown. On the illustrations the device is not connected (demo on a spare instruments panel), best should be soldered.

Another invisible new technology for a better performance and a higher reliability of your car. - SERGE -  :laugh:

To know: I have purchased some additional devices for interested FWLs and can offer them at cost price: USD 5.00/piece plus shipment by letter (PAYPAL sermey@bluewin.ch).



Edited by sermey 2010-02-24 1:48 PM




(1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg)



(2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg)



(3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg)



(4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg)



(5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg)



(6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Dodge59 Constant Voltage Regulator LL.jpg (92KB - 311 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Electronic Regulator Pin Connection LL.jpg (64KB - 363 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Reading at 9 Volt Input LL.jpg (81KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Reading at 18 Volt Input LL.jpg (90KB - 385 downloads)
Attachments 5- Both 5 Volt Regulators Mounted LL.jpg (80KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Only Electronic 5 Volt Regulator Mounted LL.jpg (93KB - 332 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-25 10:15 AM (#211582 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Remote Hood Lock: Most cars at this era didn't had this option. Everyone could open the hood from front, the ones for curiousity, the others just for steal the battery as experienced many years ago. Thus, I had not a good feeling with an "open" hood on my Dodge.

I found a "HOOD" remote cable (must be from a 1960 Mopar?), purchased later a NOS hood lock on eBay, and now it is mounted. The hood lock arm had to be cut and bent upward for a functional operation, and for preventing from manual open. Then the end of the arm got a thread (M5) with a groove for easy connecting and the fine adjustment of the cable length. The remote hood lock handle is mounted on the drivers left side, under the dashboard.

Now, the battery (and the oval air filters!) are safe, and not anymore opened hood by curious people.  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2010-02-25 4:28 PM




(1 - Hood Lock - Arm Cut LL.jpg)



(2 - Prepared Lock Arm LL.jpg)



(3 - Remote Cabel End LL.jpg)



(4 - Control Cabel Connection LL.jpg)



(5 - Connected Remote Control LL.jpg)



(6 - Remote Hood Lock Handle LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Hood Lock - Arm Cut LL.jpg (60KB - 343 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Prepared Lock Arm LL.jpg (59KB - 328 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Remote Cabel End LL.jpg (43KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Control Cabel Connection LL.jpg (75KB - 350 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Connected Remote Control LL.jpg (85KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Remote Hood Lock Handle LL.jpg (75KB - 359 downloads)
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DeSotohead
Posted 2010-02-25 10:22 AM (#211583 - in reply to #211457)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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sermey - 2010-02-24 11:07 AM

Constant Voltage Regulator: This is a thermo-mechanical contact breaker, and cannot be repaired (metallic sealed). It's output is a pulsing 12V,  resulting in an average output of 5Volt. This voltage can only be measured with a long-time integrating instrument. A connected 12V instruments bulb will flash correspondingly. The regulator is used to operate both, the fuel level and the temperature gauges.

I found an electronic device for direct replacement and easy mounting. It doesn't need any additional components, produces a constant Voltage of +5.0V within an input range of  9 - 30 Volts. This device is temperature and short circuit protected, therefore cannot be destroyed. Just move the input and output connection of the breaker to the input / output of the electronic device. The output leads to the fuel level and temperature gauges. The ground (-) is already connected by the fixing screw of the original regulator (heat sink!). Thus the center pad (ground) could be cut. The maximum output current of 1.5A is more than double needed by the fuel level and temperature gauges at full readings.

The readings for two Input Voltages of 9 and 18 Volt, and the water temperature gauge loaded for "normal" reading (sensor simulation R = 22 Ohm, see Pic) have been tested. The output of the device shows a constant value of 4.90 Volt. The original voltage regulator can be left there as is, but unconnected, or it can be removed as shown. On the illustrations the device is not connected (demo on a spare instruments panel), best should be soldered.

Another invisible new technology for a better performance and a higher reliability of your car. - SERGE -  :laugh:

To know: I have purchased some additional devices for interested FWLs and can offer them at cost price: USD 5.00/piece plus shipment by letter (PAYPAL sermey@bluewin.ch).


Serge.....

If you really want to make it look "original", you can mount the 5V regulator on a PC board inside the old regulator housing.
That is what I have done with the Lucas equivalent on my Lotus Europa........

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sermey
Posted 2010-02-25 10:29 AM (#211584 - in reply to #211583)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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DeSotohead: ..... If you really want to make it look "original", you can mount the 5V regulator on a PC board inside the old regulator housing.

This is a good idea, Hank. Then the integrated circuit can directly be soldered inside on the existing pins. It will need a screw for the heat sink, and on the Dodge, the metallic housing of the regulator is bent all around and must be opened (?).  I don't know if the other Mopars use the same regulator.



Edited by sermey 2010-02-25 10:31 AM
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DeSotohead
Posted 2010-02-25 10:52 AM (#211585 - in reply to #211584)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Here is how its done for the Europas.....




(5vregulator.gif)



Attachments
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Attachments 5vregulator.gif (57KB - 342 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-25 11:06 AM (#211586 - in reply to #211585)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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This is the same Mopar Regulator. But this one has only two bent edges. The one in my car (see above Pic 5) is bent all around.

The electronic regulator is a similar one, may-be an earlier product. There are many available, from various manufacturers and for different applications. The one I selected is best for our application and, according the datasheet, doesn't need any components at all (internally compensated), and cannot be destroyed (temperature and current protected). This security is a big advantage, thinking the regulator is located behind the instruments panel and not directly accessible.  Not needed, but the output accuracy in respect to the input range as tested is impressive (4.90V). Too precise for cars of the fifties!



Edited by sermey 2010-02-25 11:18 AM
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DeSotohead
Posted 2010-02-25 11:28 AM (#211587 - in reply to #211586)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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THe actual 5V regulator is really not an issue. As you point out, several companies make them, including the infamous adjustible "LM317" regulator from National.

As for your housing, I think it is quite possible to bend the four corners up and away.
You might try heating the metal with a small butane torch as you pry, or use a large tip on a soldering iron.

Once removed, you can finish the bent up taba with a small hammer and a piece of steel as a backer to straighten the metal.

Recrimping can be done with a small anvil vise.
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sermey
Posted 2010-02-27 12:28 PM (#211800 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Fixing the Spinner Hubcaps: I guess these 1959 hubcaps may be the heaviest ones among the FWL- cars. As the spinners are just mounted on the wheel covers and remain unbalanced, an asymmetric radial force is being applied on the rims when driving. The pression to the rims is increased on the one side, and reduced correspondingly on the opposite side. This causes the spinner hubcaps to move slightly outwards on the reduced force side. Mechanical shocks on bad streets to the critical diameter accelerates this process. The front wheels, especially the right side one (for right. hand traffic), are more exposed then the rear ones. I have observed on some hubcaps an outward displacement up to 1mm after a trip of about 500km. Therefore the fit of the hubcaps have to be checked at regular intervals.

Once it happens me to loose the front right spinner hubcap on the original rims. Fortunately I noticed this on the spot and could retrieve it. After that, on longer trips to car meetings, I safety removed the hubcaps. This caused to miss a winner  "best of show", forgetting to put on the hubcaps, laying behind the front seats. Not only, but for best presentation this car needs the original hubcaps. It even happened by an oversight to take pictures without hubcaps. Now I had to find a solution!

Diametral in the 15" chrome-wheels I removed two diametric nuts (the nuts are just dummies as design) and put an M5 inserting-nut instead (as described earlier). The position has to match the air-valve! Then I bent a profile in aluminium as fixing latch,  with an M4 inserting-nut (here in aluminium black anodized) on one end. For each  hubcap two latches are needed. The fine adjustment to the hubcaps is done by rotating and manually bending them on the wheel. The hubcaps need two holes (4 mm) in the groove, not drilled, just by applying multiple times the center puncher in order to keep the border for the countersink screws M4. This two stainless screws are hardly visible, on the picture time position 04.50. I still have some reserve wheel covers for keeping the originality, if one day it should be required.

Now, my 1959 Dodge Convertible will always be fitted with the nice spinner hubcaps, without any stress of loosing them or even being "removed" (get stolen).  - SERGE -


Edited by sermey 2010-02-27 12:50 PM




(1 - Inserted Nut LL.jpg)



(2 - Fixing Latches LL.jpg)



(3 - Latch Mount LL.jpg)



(4 - Mounted Latches LL.jpg)



(5 - Countersink Screw LL.jpg)



(6 - Fixed Spinner Hubcap LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Inserted Nut LL.jpg (90KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Fixing Latches LL.jpg (65KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Latch Mount LL.jpg (73KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Mounted Latches LL.jpg (109KB - 341 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Countersink Screw LL.jpg (65KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Fixed Spinner Hubcap LL.jpg (124KB - 330 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-03-21 3:09 PM (#215066 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Fuel Gas Tank Cap: On most FWL-Cars the Fuel Gas Tank Cap is not visible from outside, on many Sports Cars it is part of the design and lettered accordingly (GT, SS). On a nice car, this device should as well correspond to the car, to its design and to the prefences of the owner. On the market there are various caps available, with and without locks. The pictures show a selection offered in eBay. For my car the Fuel Gas Tank Cap should have the properties as:

1. Vented type, preventing pressions in the tank.
2. With lock, protecting the acces to others.
3. Covered lock, to keep it free from dirt.
4. The ability to fix it without key.
5. A nice rechromed design, matched to the car.

Now, when tank up, the nice Fuel Gas Tank Cap underscores the exclusivity of the car.  - SERGE -




Edited by sermey 2010-03-22 6:38 AM




(1 - Various Gas Tank Caps LL.jpg)



(2 - Various Locking Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg)



(3 - Dodge Fuel Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg)



(4 - Dodge Fuel Cap Fixed LL.jpg)



(5 - Dodge Fuel Cap with Keys LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Various Gas Tank Caps LL.jpg (115KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Various Locking Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg (99KB - 302 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Dodge Fuel Gas Tank Cap LL.jpg (53KB - 358 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Dodge Fuel Cap Fixed LL.jpg (53KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Dodge Fuel Cap with Keys LL.jpg (83KB - 321 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-03-26 6:02 PM (#215916 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Trunk Lamp: Older cars have usually one trunk lamp, positioned in the center of the trunk, near the lock. The switch is in the bulb socket, activated at a given angle or inclination. For a big trunk like on FWL-cars, this illumination can be insufficient at the left and right end, especially when the trunk is dark carpeted. Additional lamps could be useful.

I found Lamp Units with integrated switch, for individually On or Off. As separate switch, the same system is used as in the doors for the dome lamps. This switch is mounted by a bracket behind the trunk hinge (left side) the way, that at closed trunk the lamps goes off. Two lamp units are fixed, left and right, not visible on top in the upper corner. The needed electrical supply is already there.

Another discreet adds-on. At night the opened trunk appear wider and more generous, as the car
already is. - SERGE - 


Edited by sermey 2010-03-26 6:35 PM




(1 - Trunk Light LL.jpg)



(2 - Trunk Lamp Units LL.jpg)



(3 - Trunk Light Switch LL.jpg)



(4 - Mounted Lamp Unit LL.jpg)



(5 - Trunk Lamp Unit Left Side View LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Trunk Light LL.jpg (51KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Trunk Lamp Units LL.jpg (65KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Trunk Light Switch LL.jpg (67KB - 333 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Mounted Lamp Unit LL.jpg (80KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Trunk Lamp Unit Left Side View LL.jpg (81KB - 324 downloads)
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1959 Belvedere Conv
Posted 2010-03-26 7:45 PM (#215929 - in reply to #211457)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Serge, in picure 6 of the constant voltage regulator thread, there is a small blue electronic device with stripes used, is that a diode or capacitor you installed? and why?

thanks!
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sermey
Posted 2010-03-26 11:41 PM (#215952 - in reply to #215929)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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1959 Belvedere Conv - 2010-03-27 1:45 AM Serge, in picure 6 of the constant voltage regulator thread, there is a small blue electronic device with stripes used, is that a diode or capacitor you installed? and why? thanks!

John, this is the 22 Ohm resistor (0.3W), simulating the missing temperature sensor. With this value, corresponding to the warm-up engine, the temp gauge shows 60% reading, visible from the other side.This voltage regulator requires no additional electronic device at all. What you see is the rear of a "reserve" instruments panel 1959 Dodge.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2010-03-27 2:40 AM
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sermey
Posted 2010-03-28 6:22 AM (#216067 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Water Temperature Gauge Sender: Technical aspects about this device have already been discussed on another thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=15&start=1

Here just a small "Make-up": The pin has been modified by applying a thread M3. This allows a nicer and as well a better electrical connection. Then the device and the dome cap (M3) have been polished. Under the Sensor you see a rubber O-ring to hide its remaining thread.

Now, one more "brillant" on this car! - SERGE -

To know: Polished brass should be protected by coating with Zapon-Laquer to prevent oxydations and to keep the shiny aspect. This is advantageous for any polished metallic items. On pictures the polished surfaces often  doesn't look as shiny, due to mirroring of the ambient.



Edited by sermey 2010-03-28 6:29 AM




(1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg)



(2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg)



(3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg (51KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg (102KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg (101KB - 308 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-04-03 11:16 AM (#216878 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Black Painted Items: Many items on my car are black painted. Not the style of anyone, but to me for practcal reasons. When clean, it looks nice, can be partly repainted anytime without perceiving it, is neutral and gives a classic outfit. Finally: black is black, no problems with various tones as a white color. This is my personal view.

Here how I do it, easy and nice:
First brush the surface to remove old paint or rust. Then clean it with nitro-dilution or fuel, using a towel or washing the item with a paint-brush, to be absolute free of oil. The best paint I found and use for years is a spray, mat and includes rust-protection. It has a structure as silver paint and dries within a half hour. When the items are not directly exposed to water or rain, this paint can be applied directly on iron (or other material). For hot engine parts there is the similar "high temperature" spray. Inside the car or in corners, the surrounding can be masked with newspapers or a plastic foil, the hidden corners coloured with a paint-brush, using this paint previously sprayed in a can.

As sample I used a rusty metal bar, here (highly zoomed) only brushed, not grinded or sanded. On the last picture, the black painted front of the engine (over 10 years old). The black paint is slightly shiny as silk, what gives an animated look.  - SERGE -

See as well the brushed and black painted Hood-Lock in an upper post.


Edited by sermey 2010-04-03 11:20 AM




(1 - Black Spray LL.jpg)



(2 - Rusty Metal LL.jpg)



(3 - Brushing LL.jpg)



(4 - Metal Black Sprayed LL.jpg)



(5 - Black Paint on Front LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Black Spray LL.jpg (100KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Rusty Metal LL.jpg (68KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Brushing LL.jpg (69KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Metal Black Sprayed LL.jpg (69KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Black Paint on Front LL.jpg (115KB - 312 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2010-04-24 1:01 PM (#220025 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Aligning the Front Bumper: We all know, the precision on those cars was not high as on cars of today. This becomes apparent on mounted doors, hoods and trunk lids, but as well on bumpers. The front bumper of the 1959 Dodge is especially critical due to its side design - any mis-alignment to the fender is visible. When mounted as it is from original, most are hanging down. Some nice cars as illustrated (1) (pics from thread Vasteras) look as the front bumper will get lost at any instance. This was as well on my car.

Correcting this by an asymmetric support would move the bumper more forward. But the bumper should even be more back to fit as well to the border of the fender. To move it more back, the mounting arms have to be shortened. Due to an angle of about 45deg the arms have in respect to the bumper, the mounting holes would not fit anymore by just cutting them. They have to be welded overlapped as shown (2). The adjustment in forward position then is easy achieved by inserting washers (3). The hanging side to come up can be corrected by grinding the bracket correspondingly.

Recently I improved this alignment by slightly untight the bolts, pushing the bumper on the side up to maximum,  using the car lifter. Then fixing (just hanging) the bumper up, with two adjustable aluminium angle brackets (3) on each side (4).  When aligned and fixed in the correct position, finally tighten all bumper bolts (on Pic 4 you see as well how the Lancer Emblem is fixed, this way already posted earlier).

Now, the front bumper is there where it should be, as it was initially designed.  - SERGE - 


Edited by sermey 2010-04-24 1:08 PM




(1 - Hanging Front Bumpers LL.jpg)



(2 - Bumper Arm Welding LL.jpg)



(3 - Forward Adjustment LL.jpg)



(4 - Adjustable Angle Brackets LL.jpg)



(5 - Front Bumper Fixed in Top Position LL.jpg)



(6 - Aligned Front Bumper LL.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - Hanging Front Bumpers LL.jpg (116KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Bumper Arm Welding LL.jpg (72KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Forward Adjustment LL.jpg (70KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Adjustable Angle Brackets LL.jpg (68KB - 356 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Front Bumper Fixed in Top Position LL.jpg (86KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Aligned Front Bumper LL.jpg (76KB - 330 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2010-04-24 3:06 PM (#220038 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Way to go Serge! You have cured the "American Car disese"! Next to all US cars (exeption from the master renovated ones) has a misaligned bumper. This is indeed a very noticable difference.
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59CRL
Posted 2010-05-01 7:25 PM (#221207 - in reply to #211457)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics.
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sermey
Posted 2010-05-01 7:52 PM (#221211 - in reply to #221207)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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59CRL - 2010-05-02 1:25 AM I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics.

Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1

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59CRL
Posted 2010-08-06 11:44 AM (#235888 - in reply to #221211)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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sermey - 2010-05-01 7:52 PM

59CRL - 2010-05-02 1:25 AM I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics.

Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread:

"Defective Water Temperature Sensor"

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1



Bringing this thread back for an update. Sitting at idle with my 7805 voltage regulator I get 1/3rd on the temp gauge. Driving down the highway at
temperatures of 95-100 degrees the gauge will read the same. Sitting in 100 degree heat with the engine idling the gauge will creep upto 3/4.
Not bad at all.
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sermey
Posted 2011-01-15 11:41 AM (#257083 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Emergency Car Cover: Imagine, you are on the road with your Convertible. It starts raining. You attempt to put up your top. But unfortunately it won't. May-be due to electrical problems, a defective pump, or it just clamps.

In order to prevent your precious interior and the dash instruments to go wet, cover the car around all the interior with a multiple purposes Polyethylen-Foil (min. 0.1mm, 0.004"), and wait still raining has stopped.  As illustrated, this cover (5 x 4 m) needs practically no space in the trunk (Package 30 x 38cm), and is always and instantly ready to use. ;)  - SERGE -

 

Edited by sermey 2011-01-16 4:10 AM




(Emergency Car Cover.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Emergency Car Cover.jpg (77KB - 326 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2011-03-09 8:24 AM (#264036 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Bullets for Rear View Mirror: A time ago some bullets have been offered in eBay. Even not an original mopar accessory, they went for up nearly USD100 a pair.
With these bullets the mirror looks rather to be complete.

Now I found "Chrome Bullet Heads" used as Tire Valve Caps in eBay, a set of 4pcs for USD 8.99, 5/8"x1 1/4" in metal. Proceedings:

1. Insert a cylindrical plastic plug inside the Bullet (D:7.2mm L 12mm), put-in a long screw (M4) till end, this will be tight and used for fixing. Reduce the bullet in length (from 30.5mm to 23.2mm) to fit the mirrors end diameter; cut the screw for remaining 5mm. The Bullet is ready for mount. 

2. Remove the mirror nut, drill an M4 thread through, put back the Nut -  the mirror is ready for the bullet.

Now, just screw-in the assembled bullet, and your Rear View Mirror now shows the visible face lifting. The mirror bullets can  easy be removed simply by manually unscrewing, to return to the mirrors standard view.  Another gadget for your FWL Car - if you like it.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2011-03-09 8:36 AM




(DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg)



(DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg)



(DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg)



(DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg)



(DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg (85KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg (47KB - 369 downloads)
Attachments DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg (56KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg (58KB - 343 downloads)
Attachments DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg (77KB - 309 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2011-03-20 7:44 AM (#265270 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Door Panel Protection: When assembling the door panel I had to find a way, for not wear the new coating material at the opening of the door handle, when manipulating with.

I took the body of a "Solder Sucking Wick" as used in electronics. This fits exactly in inner and outer diameter, in thickness of the door panel, and as well to the diameter of the handle, as it was designed for this application. Mounted, it doesn't turn at all and doesn't need additional spacers.

Now, no friction at all to the padded coating material when manipulating the door handle - an easy and efficient solution  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2011-03-20 8:15 AM




(DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg)



(DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg)



(DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg)



(DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg (97KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg (86KB - 333 downloads)
Attachments DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg (81KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg (88KB - 382 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2011-03-20 10:43 AM (#265284 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Hello Serge
Thank you very much for this idea! I'll use it too. Thanks a lot.

Happy motoring!

Dieter
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wizard
Posted 2011-03-20 1:28 PM (#265304 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Another Serge special - recycling and preserving in one step
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sermey
Posted 2011-03-20 2:37 PM (#265314 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Emblem on Door Panel: On many previous cars I owned, I liked the variety of the emblems. This is as well with FWL-Cars. But what I was always missing, an emblem on the door panel of the 1959 Dodge Custom Royal..

I purchased gloove box doors of Coronets, where there is an emblem exactly complying to my demands. Now it looks as original, as it was designed for.  Another "Royal"  eye-catcher. - SERGE -  



Edited by sermey 2011-03-20 2:42 PM




(DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg)



(DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg (76KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg (76KB - 355 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2011-03-27 12:20 PM (#266108 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Door Panels: A 3mm, pressed material is used, cut the contour according the door (the lines are not parallel or rectangular!), drill the holes and openings for handle, switches, clamps. Coat all the panel with a premium to be waterproof. Bostitch a protective pad behind the clamps position, then cover all the panel with a soft 3mm padding material as used for upholstery (not foamed rubber!) and fix it with contact spray.

Now comes the vinyl (no glue at all!), just bostitch around on backside and on front under the mouldings, first a few ones, finally all around when adjusted.

The Door Panel is now ready for mount, not seeing the fixing clamps at all. Same nice job for the other panels. - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2011-03-27 12:26 PM




(01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg)



(02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg)



(03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg)



(04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg (39KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg (60KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg (60KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg (141KB - 292 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-05-25 11:11 AM (#322816 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Swapping the Door Moulding: When I got my car about 15 years ago, the rear and the door mouldings on the right side have been flatted at their common ends. No way to get some parts at this time, I had to restore them so as to be nearly invisible. Since then I found some of these very rare items. They are in stainless steel, doesn't rust or get pits, but as shown, hardly to restore when deformed. A punch by a door of another parked car - and it happened again!

At last, now I interchanged the door moulding and illustrate here how this is easy done when fixed as described earlier in http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=51 , within a few minutes and no need of any special tools:
Push up the moulding and keep it back, push down and remove it. Due to the many riveted clamps pressing the moulding to the door, there are no gaps at all along. Finally the moulding can be fine adjusted by moving in height and side position. To replace the long rear moulding, the rear bumper has to be removed.

This is fast servicing as is usual in todays cars.  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-05-25 11:19 AM




(1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg)



(2 - Push up and back.jpg)



(3 - Push down and removal.jpg)



(4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg)



(5 - No Gaps at all.jpg)



(6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg (40KB - 255 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Push up and back.jpg (56KB - 292 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Push down and removal.jpg (62KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg (46KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments 5 - No Gaps at all.jpg (37KB - 250 downloads)
Attachments 6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg (66KB - 263 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2012-05-25 1:59 PM (#322837 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Hi Serge, nice to see your posts again! As always, very informative and sharing - with concern of our othere FL friends. Thanks for sharing!
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earleebob
Posted 2012-05-25 6:20 PM (#322861 - in reply to #322816)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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G'day Serge thanks for the email and the link. some very ingenious solutions for FL owners
Cheers
Bob
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sermey
Posted 2012-05-26 5:55 PM (#323004 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Rear Power Windows Motor: The motor is just mounted on the removable panel with two screws. The big manual gear is turned so as to cover all the moving range of the windows lift. The position of the windows motor must be matched to the gear / theeth for the transmission. So, nearly any windows motor can be used. The wires goes under the sill plate.

Easy for servicing or changing - and it works.  - SERGE -

-





(1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg)



(2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg (103KB - 256 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg (69KB - 282 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-05-27 5:31 PM (#323149 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Oval Exhaust Tips: Long time I had the feeling, my Dual Round Exhaust Tips, as described earlier here, are too small for this big car.

Looking around I found Stainless Oval Tips AMG Style 350 x 85 x 58 mm, slanted. The lenght fits exactly up to the exhausts suspension. They can be mounted without seeing
any screws, thus looks as original tubes. Furthermore, due to the distance of the oval shape to the inner round tube, the tips will not get any heat tinting. They have only to be cut-out to fit the mounting brackets.
When assembled, inserted and adjusted to the correct position, just tighten the two screws - that's all. Same inverse procedure for easy removing.

Now my Dodge looks more powerful and sporty - a low cost visual power boost!   :)



Edited by sermey 2012-05-28 2:32 AM




(1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg)



(2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg)



(3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg)



(4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg)



(5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg)



(6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg)



(7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg)



(8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg)



(9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg)



(10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg (90KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg (65KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg (133KB - 287 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg (96KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg (46KB - 272 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg (59KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg (63KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg (73KB - 256 downloads)
Attachments 9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg (82KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg (81KB - 278 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-05-29 10:37 AM (#323382 - in reply to #159205)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Buzzer on Flasher: In addition to the earlier subject "Directional Flasher" in this thread here pictures of the final Flasher-Buzzer Unit as glued , connected and fixed with a clamp behind the radio (view from bottom). The buzzer is damped for lower alert with masking tape. 

Today I won't miss this option in my Convertible at all.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-05-29 10:47 AM




(1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg)



(2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg (103KB - 284 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg (86KB - 294 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-05-30 4:34 PM (#323681 - in reply to #323382)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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sermey - 2012-05-29 4:37 PM

Buzzer on Flasher: Explanatory comment

This buzzer sounds intermittend with the directional light flashing. On the 1959 Dodge the indicator lamps on the instruments panel are hardly visible. Furthermore, the flasher unit doesn't sound enough to hear the directional light being flashing. Worst on the HighWay when entering at opened top. Then it happens that the flasher doesn't stop automatically and goes on flashing - can be dangerous for the driver as for others.

Now I hear when the flasher is active, the intermittend tone of the buzzer, corresponding to the directional lights, and don't have to check anymore the instruments panel. - SERGE -  :laugh:

PS: Pay attention to the correct polarity of the buzzer connection!



Edited by sermey 2012-05-31 12:52 AM
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sermey
Posted 2012-05-31 5:53 AM (#323775 - in reply to #323681)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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sermey - 2012-05-30 10:34 PM
sermey - 2012-05-29 4:37 PM

Buzzer on Flasher: An earlier solution instead

Many years ago I did another way to get the directional flasher more audible: Connect the output of the flasher directly to the radio loudspeaker, over a serial circuit of a capacitor and a resistor of more than 100 Ohm.
This doesn't influence the radio operation at all. 
The value of the capacitor determines the frequency band of the ticking, the resistor value the loudness. But I didn't liked this peakish ticking, I find the buzzer solution sounds more calming. But test it yourself. - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-05-31 7:27 AM
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FIN ME
Posted 2012-06-05 11:33 AM (#324447 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

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Dang! What a great thread, Serge! I vote that it becomes a "sticky'.

You have an incredible eye for detail, and the heart of an artist!

Fabulous car you have there!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.





Edited by FIN ME 2012-06-05 11:34 AM
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wizard
Posted 2012-06-05 3:47 PM (#324471 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Yep, Serge's the man - I and so many others have learnt a lot of ways to improve and enhance our cars from him.
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-06 8:18 AM (#324539 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Soft Front Styling: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design, not only on cars - this as well for Ladies! The front of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit bulky and massy in respect to the cars smooth lines. I tried to give to the overall front a wider and lighter aspect. On Photoshop I played on various designs. First the two long front bars have been cut in medium and short (Pic1) for lightening, then the verticals on the grille have been interrupted for widen, as well optically. I decided for the mid bar (Pic2), cut the bars accordingly, having a pair of spare for reversing. The new length of the chrome bar matches to the grill structure and the upper chrome moldings. The cut-out length is 78mm, must be done exact parallel to its end (Pic3). The end plates for mounting are easy removed by drilling holes where soldered. These holes then are used for fixing back the end to the shortened bar (4x M3).

Now the bar can be mounted and aligned on the car as before (Pic4). To fix the center needs an additional metal extension due to the moved fixing plate.

This Dodge now has got a soft face lifting (Pic5), appears to be wider and lighter – nice?    - SERGE -

To know: As usual this modification can be reversed at any time.

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-06 9:11 AM




(1 - Test Chrome Bar Original - Medium - Short.jpg)



(2 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)



(3 - Cut Chrome Bar Medium.jpg)



(4 - 59Dodge Chrome Bar Alignment.jpg)



(5 - 59Dodge Front Softly Styled.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Test Chrome Bar Original - Medium - Short.jpg (174KB - 406 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (220KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Cut Chrome Bar Medium.jpg (83KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 4 - 59Dodge Chrome Bar Alignment.jpg (92KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments 5 - 59Dodge Front Softly Styled.jpg (116KB - 286 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2012-06-06 1:50 PM (#324575 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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See what I mean! Who else than Serge would dwell on an idea for a long time and realize it as his soft personalizing of the Exner design??!! To me, it looks more balanced and even give the car a wider look.
Also, totally reversible if he should change his mind. Yes, I really like it - who would even notice it in a car show? Some connoisseur might get a puzzled look and think, there's something about this car - others wont even note it!
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-16 6:50 AM (#325833 - in reply to #324539)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Center Front Emblem 1: As I love emblems on cars, especially on the front, it was the logical consequence for me to experiment what emblem could fit, now as the front was stylistically enlarged. To give some ideas here are illustrated some steps, in two parts, how to get the final result, using tools as photoshop and CAD in combination.

1. D500 Emblem: Having a spare D500 Emblem, I mounted the picture with Photoshop (PS) on the center front. But I didn’t like. Furthermore, the golden knight is looking to the left, on the medaillon to the right. To see it correctly on the picture I turned the head to the right (01).

2. Resized Knight Head: Why not a Resized Knight Head, mirrored to be as well turned to the right? Two knights at a glance, and at different sizes I found too much and corny (02).

3. 500: Or just the numbers “500”, already existing for 1968 Dodge Coronet (03)? I modeled resized “500” keeping the style of the D500 Emblem (04)? On the car I found too narrow, too similar to the 1968 one (05).




(01 - PS Front Emblem on Car - D500 Emblem.jpg)



(02 - PS Front Emblem on Car - Resized Knight Head.jpg)



(03 - D500 and 500-68.jpg)



(04 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style D500.jpg)



(05 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style D500.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - PS Front Emblem on Car - D500 Emblem.jpg (95KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments 02 - PS Front Emblem on Car - Resized Knight Head.jpg (94KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments 03 - D500 and 500-68.jpg (78KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 04 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style D500.jpg (50KB - 294 downloads)
Attachments 05 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style D500.jpg (112KB - 269 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 6:27 AM (#326026 - in reply to #325833)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Center Front Emblem 2:

4. “500” with font style of the front medaillon “DODGE”: To match the heavy chrome bars, the numbers are extruded with a slightly conical thickness (06). Inserted on the car with Photoshop as check gives a near original impression (07). Finally I decided to manufacture these numbers.
Using a STEP-File built from the model, a mechanical workshop cut the numbers directly, out of an aluminium-bloc, without the need any dimensions (08). The fixing bolts have been placed in order to fit between the gaps of the grille (M4). Thus there is no need of any modification or drilling (08). I did two sets at once. The one Golden coated I mounted first on the car, and the other I let Rechrome.
Golden I found too excessive (09)(10)(11). Only old ladies may wear a lot of gold – not a 1959 Dodge! Thus I swapped to the 500 Chrome version (12)(13)(14).
 
On the podest, at the last car meeting, the “outsider” speaker announced surprisingly: ”This is a DODGE 500”. -> No – this is just a unique, personalized 1959 DODGE!   - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-18 6:36 AM




(06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg)



(07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg)



(08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg)



(09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg)



(10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg)



(11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg)



(12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg)



(13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg)



(14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (65KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (130KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg (83KB - 269 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg (135KB - 282 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg (111KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg (144KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg (145KB - 288 downloads)
Attachments 13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg (150KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments 14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg (170KB - 453 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2012-06-18 8:22 AM (#326029 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Looks really good Serge - you finally realized the ideas you had for a long time!! This is really a very interesting way of personalize a car and still be able to go back to original whenever one wants to. Careful planning, testing and testing again the ideas digitally and the fabrication and realizing the dream..
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 10:46 AM (#326048 - in reply to #326029)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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I know, many will dislike this, keeping strictly all as Original. Of course, if I will feel same one day, I will switch all back - a much shorter project! 

For a “maximum personalization” of my car I should model my original ancestors MEYER Emblem, dated 1756 (Birthyear of Mozart). Interesting fact: this hand-made Emblem has a Diameter of 175.6 mm ! ! !

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 12:23 AM




(Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg (141KB - 289 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 10:55 AM (#326051 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: The option of a remote rear view mirror is not exceptional enough to comment here. Other a remote controlled mirror on the passenger side. Here I show how I got it working.

As I decided for this missing option on my car, I purchased 1959 / 1960 mirrors, harder to find than all other Mopar types. The mirrors I got had all more or less visible pits or speckles, and couldn’t satisfy the demands for my car, even they were praised to be “very nice”. When I got total five of them, four with remote and one without, I had no other choice to restore them. Now it was obvious to install a remote one as well on the passenger side, as an exceptional feature.
 
1. The body: Outside mirrors are for a viewer most exposed items - a bad one would affect an overall positive impression. Thus, they should present as jewels.
When the mirrors were disassembled, first the old chrome was removed. Then punched-out the pits as already described earlier (01), and the geometry of the surfaces restored. For finishing the conical parts and the round mirror housings, fixing items were necessary -> a polishing tool and a spray cap (02) to fix them on the driller (03). Now all parts have become ready to be copper-plated (04). With the fine polishing at home (!), nickel- and chrome-plating externally, the bodies have become ready for assembling.

2. The control wire: I found Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire (05), for minimum friction needed in the longer control line (180cm), and matching the specs of the original wire (D 0.85mm / 30kp breaking strength). The difference of the wires is shown in (06). On the rear of the mirror, additional holes are drilled, enabling to swap the wires and fix them as original by a node (07). These holes then are closed with plastic plugs, and all looks again as it should be (08).
(will be continued)



Edited by sermey 2012-06-18 10:58 AM




(01 - Punched-out pits.jpg)



(02 - Fixing items.jpg)



(03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg)



(04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg)



(05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg)



(06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg)



(07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg)



(08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Punched-out pits.jpg (114KB - 286 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Fixing items.jpg (69KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg (95KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg (160KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg (111KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg (91KB - 290 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg (62KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments 08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg (94KB - 304 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2012-06-18 3:46 PM (#326089 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!!
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 3:56 PM (#326090 - in reply to #326051)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (2)

3. The steel shell: I couldn’t find steel shells thin enough to pass through the oval tube in the stand. I repaired and joined segments of an obsolete old mirror to the short one, with thin connection tubes used in the electronics (09). The steel shell must fit exactly face to face, no use of glue, then turned them inside together. If needed fix them by a heat shrinking tube. The extended three steel shells (170cm) are fixed tight together to a solid flexible unit (10). The silicon tube (8mm), is previously expanded in nitro solution (30 min) for easy inserting. This highly flexible tube, sustaining up to 180deg, protects the control wires from water and diminishes slippage when adjusting the mirror from one side to the other. Now the remote controlled mirror for the passenger side can be assembled to be ready for mounting, the joints can be seen on the picture (11).

4. The control line: Searching for the shortest line to the dashboard I found best to pass behind the hood hinge, this as well for the driver side. I modified the shaft of a conical drilling tool to fit a 1/4" adapter (12). With some 1/4" extensions I could easy widen the hole up to 20mm to fit a rubber protector, where the fixing plug of the interior isolation was previously removed (13). Now the control wires behind the hood hinge are much shorter, hardly visible and in a heat protected place (14).
(will be continued)



Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 4:28 AM




(09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg)



(10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg)



(11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg)



(12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg)



(13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg)



(14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg (95KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg (55KB - 359 downloads)
Attachments 11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg (133KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments 12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg (64KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments 13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg (67KB - 331 downloads)
Attachments 14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg (71KB - 356 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-20 5:26 AM (#326289 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Power Window Connectors:

For a good function of the power windows, the supply current should flow with minimum resistance, to assure a fast lifting: adequate wire diameter, soldered and cleaned connectors. A few pictures illustrates how this can be done. It is sufficient to label only the +12V wire (black marked), for all other wires can easily be changed, thanks the external additional (soldered) crimp-connectors (blue) in pic 07.  – SERGE -


Edited by sermey 2012-06-20 7:58 AM




(01 - Single connector soldered.jpg)



(02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg)



(03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg)



(04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg)



(05 - Connectors mounted.jpg)



(06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg)



(07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - Single connector soldered.jpg (101KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg (103KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg (122KB - 351 downloads)
Attachments 04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg (135KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Connectors mounted.jpg (98KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg (169KB - 496 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg (113KB - 317 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-21 12:09 PM (#326489 - in reply to #326090)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (3)

5. The gasket: After the body of the mirror has been assembled and connected to the control line, it can be mounted on the fender, still without the mirror-glass. Although I got gaskets, I preferred to use my system as described earlier here. This gasket can be inserted without removing the mirror and the three control wires, and easy replaced at any time. It is thick enough not to leave impressions in the paint, and fits as custom-made. This is a Silicon-Rubber profile, as I used as well for the dual rear antennas, cut in the correct length (circonference of the stand). The ends are glued together to a fixed ring (15). Unscrew the mirror, so as the profile can be inserted and pushed-in (16). When the gasket fits all around, then tighten the screws (17).

6. The wire attachment: The described operations may be very usefull for those who have to repair their remote mirror. First of all, the three wires already fixed to the glass now must be inserted through the shell. To get the correct length the glass has to be fixed fully inside the body, to assure a sufficient tension to hold the mirror-glass at the end (18).

Due to the nickel-chrome alloy, the wire cannot be soft soldered. For a solid attachment crimping sleeves are needed, as is original. For this purpose I used standard rivets, D 4mm, L 5.5mm (19). Before removing the nail, the diameter of the rivets head should be reduced from 7.5mm to 6.5mm in order to fit to the control unit (20). The end of the flexible control wire is bent to be better fixed when crimped, using a standard AMP tool (21). Take care to correct diameter for crimping, or the rivet may not fit anymore to the control unit (22)! Now the wires can easily be attached (23). To know: the rivets cannot be removed after crimping. Can cut away, must restart with shortened shell and wire (-6mm).

On the passenger side, these operations can be done outside the car, for the control wires are long enough to pass the small side window (24).

(wiil be continued)

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-21 12:28 PM




(15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg)



(16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg)



(17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg)



(18 - Fixing the glass.jpg)



(19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg)



(20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg)



(21 - Crimping the wire.jpg)



(22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg)



(23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg)



(24 - All control wires attached.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg (81KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg (131KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments 17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg (77KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 18 - Fixing the glass.jpg (115KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg (111KB - 327 downloads)
Attachments 20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg (101KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments 21 - Crimping the wire.jpg (113KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg (73KB - 392 downloads)
Attachments 23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg (110KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 24 - All control wires attached.jpg (92KB - 366 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-25 9:55 AM (#327059 - in reply to #326089)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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wizard - 2012-06-18 9:46 PM I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!!

Here how as I did all parts  to be rechromed on my car:

1. Disassemble all items to single parts

2. Bring them to the galvanic shop for remove chrome and nickel. Old copper will partly be removed due to strongness of nickel-removal.

3. Restore items geometry by punching, grinding, . . . and pre-polish to get the control of the surfaces.

4. Bring them again to the galvanic-shop for copper-plating. Needs enough copper for last restoration.

5. Fine-grinding and polish the item (01). The rechromed part will exactly be shiny as it has been polished.

6. Bring to the galvanic shop for nickel-plate and chrome-plate. Looks as in 5., but now in "blue" chrome (02).

When nice polished and rechromed, the mirror-effect should be sharp as from a glass-mirror (unfortunately my rugh ceiling is reflected, but some differences on the the Pic are apparent). If you can polish the items by yourself, you alone decide how nice the items will become.

To know: from polishing you will get more black than from grease.

 

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-25 3:24 PM




(01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg)



(02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg (149KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg (181KB - 479 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-26 3:31 AM (#327181 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Adjustment of the flasher: Here the proceeding, when the directional lamps flashes too fast. It is checked on a spare part I had, a bigger flasher, but the principle remains identical. This one flashed too fast, connected to my car.

First remove the housing by grinding around till the lip-ring detache (01). Then bent the contact with a pince up (here I did it by hand), to increase the distance at opened contacts for a slower flashing. It must be the contact without bi-metal (zoomed), just about 0.1mm (02), must be checked. Finally fix back the metal housing using instant glue inside around (03).

Can let the ignition and the blinking ON. just connect and disconnect the opened flasher for better handling, and put back for test. Don't hold at the contacts, only the socket!



Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 3:52 AM




(01 - Opened flasher.jpg)



(02 - Contact to adjust.jpg)



(03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Opened flasher.jpg (93KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Contact to adjust.jpg (102KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg (87KB - 300 downloads)
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56Fanatic
Posted 2012-06-26 9:41 AM (#327196 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load.
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-26 12:11 PM (#327213 - in reply to #327196)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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56Fanatic - 2012-06-26 3:41 PM You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load.

This is a good advise, for I didn't know, unless it was to be expected. Do they sound when flashing as well?



Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 5:03 PM
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-30 3:17 PM (#327833 - in reply to #326489)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (4)

7. The control unit: As my car didn’t was equipped with a remote mirror on the left fender I had to find out how and where to fix the control unit. Referring to pictures I built a bracket according the position where it should be. Later I found an instruments housing with the original bracket, included the delete plate (25). So I used the original one, as well the “MIRROR”-bezel (26). Other then original, the left hand control line behind the hinge now allows a straight and shorter connection. The right hand control unit was fixed with a chrome bezel, included with one mirror set, mounted exactly on the vertical under the left knob of the radio (27). This was the nearest available place, for other locations were already used. Here the control unit just not fit under the radio, the left lower corner of the housing has been slightly cut-out. The remote mirror on passenger side can now be adjusted by the driver, comfortable as the radio knob, while still keeping the rear view.

8. The final result. Due to the new Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire, the right side mirror with the much longer control line, is much slighter adjustable than the left side one. I will replace the old control wires as well. Finally I mounted the chrome bullets (28), fixed with M4 in the mirrors nut, as already described here: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&... A black rubber washer seals from entering water, and can be considered as an additional styling element (29). The two rear view mirrors, more sophisticated then the former ones, restored have now become: NT-NOS (= Nicer Than - New Old Stock). They underlines once more the exceptional art-work on forwardlook cars.

Dual remote outside rear view mirrors, an additional exclusive feature on an outstanding 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.  – SERGE -      

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-30 4:33 PM




(25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg)



(26 - Left side mirror control.jpg)



(27 - Right side mirror control.jpg)



(28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg)



(29 - Mounted bullets.jpg)



(30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg (107KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments 26 - Left side mirror control.jpg (135KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments 27 - Right side mirror control.jpg (139KB - 331 downloads)
Attachments 28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg (110KB - 376 downloads)
Attachments 29 - Mounted bullets.jpg (145KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg (136KB - 354 downloads)
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Windsor Wendy
Posted 2012-06-30 5:09 PM (#327842 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Nice one Serge! Beautiful work! I too made a right hand remote controlled mirror, one of the first parts I made for our car.
I had a much easier job as we have the other type of twin strut mirror and I just combined several parts and used 2 sets of OEM cables.
They were connected to form the long cables with adjusters in the middle for fine-tuning the adjustment properties.

I won't spoil your beautiful thread with pics of my un-restored mirror set-up on an un-painted car...
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-30 10:06 PM (#327888 - in reply to #327842)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Windsor Wendy - 2012-06-30 11:09 PM . . .  used 2 sets of OEM cables. They were connected to form the long cables with adjusters in the middle for fine-tuning the adjustment properties. . . .

You have as well a nice and intelligent approach, Wendy, my compliments!

I will present a more easier way as those mentioned here: no need of 2 sets of OEM cables; the length of the wires also adjustables without needing to cut and re-crimp the rivets for the correct length: adjustment not in the middle of the cables, but at the end on the control unit. I will present this here as "Supplement" as soon I will have completed on my car and illustrate with pictures.   - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-07-01 1:46 AM
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-05 9:02 AM (#328452 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Head Lamp Bezel: When purchasing this item, the fixing clips are often rusty, broken or even missing (01). Before rechroming, they anyway have to be removed. Instead of these single metal clips, I used on each side two standard Nylon washers (D20 x d10.5 x t2mm) to fix the head lamp bezel. Metal washers are not flexible!
Grind the washer, flat on one side of its diameter, from D20mm to 18.5mm (or to d3.5mm distance to inner diameter) (02). Then, with a self-tapping stainless pan head screw (D2.85mm x 5.5mm), the Nylon washer can be fixed on the bezel (03). Due to the asymmetric grinded surface on one side, and to the geometric shape of the bezel on the other side, the washer cannot turn around and remains fixed, but still being flexible for mounting (03). Because of the originally uncentered threads of screw on the bezel, the Nylon washers have not the equal length, but this doesn't influence the function at all (04). A perfect Head Lamp Bezel you can see here:

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=34070&start=10
 
When needed, this is an instantly, simple and rustfree solution, and not scratching the paint when assembling.  - SERGE -

To Know: This Head Lamp Bezel is identical for the left and the right side. What you see here I did already 10 years ago, the Nylon washers have become a little bit yellow..



Edited by sermey 2012-07-05 3:54 PM




(01 - Missing Clips.jpg)



(02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg)



(03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg)



(04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Missing Clips.jpg (87KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg (133KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg (150KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg (142KB - 319 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-05 2:39 PM (#328488 - in reply to #326089)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Reminder: The solutions in this thread are NOT THE BEST ones. They show HOW I DID IT: logical, efficient and at all successfully approved on my car.  - SERGE -      
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-07 6:42 AM (#328720 - in reply to #324539)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Soft Front Styling: Supplement to  http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=144

I found some missing pictures commented here. The cutting line has equal distance (78mm) to the end, for keeping the original angle (3a). In the shortened chrome bar, four screw threads M4 (not M3!) are cut (3b). On the other side, the four Allen stainless screws are then shortened as needed (3c). As usual, it looks nice and solid. 



Edited by sermey 2012-07-07 6:46 AM




(3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg)



(3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg)



(3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg (69KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg (143KB - 356 downloads)
Attachments 3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg (113KB - 326 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-07 3:06 PM (#328758 - in reply to #324539)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Soft Front Styling 2:
Here again: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design.

The parking lights of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit too much in the background (01). View from side, especially on pictures, the collars around the lamp body doesn’t show as they  should (02). Not much better from top (03). By simply  moving this unit to front, including the chrome bar, this would make this styling more exposed.

Just remove the parking light assembly, put underneath washers or plates as distance, about 10 - 15mm at all according personal preference, the screws are long enough (04). Washers can be added and removed afterwards at any time. Then re-assemble the unit as well with the chrome bar mounted. My shortened chrome bars have anyway an additional bracket for fixing, thus before tightening it can be positioned, otherwise as well washers will be needed. The positioning of the chrome bars should be done carefully in order to keep the full harmony of the front. They should be aligned vertically (05) and horizontally according the bumpers inclination (06). After this small moving to front, the change can easy be seen at the mounted collars, or in direct comparison (07). Best effect is visible from inside (08) or exact from side position (09).

This soft front styling injects to a 1959 Dodge a decent “horny” appearance!  - SERGE -        

N.B. The red rust-protecting paint behind the body (04) is from the former owner. He used to paint all with, even no rusting surfaces as shown here.

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-08 7:35 AM




(01 - Original Position.jpg)



(02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg)



(03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg)



(04 - Distances-washer.jpg)



(05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)



(06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)



(07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)



(08 - Moved - Right View.jpg)



(09 - Moved - Side View.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - Original Position.jpg (75KB - 296 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg (97KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg (111KB - 331 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Distances-washer.jpg (148KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (129KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (113KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (146KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Moved - Right View.jpg (124KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Moved - Side View.jpg (115KB - 333 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-16 3:02 PM (#330140 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Head Lamp Assembly: The head lamps on my 1959 Dodge are un-centered (01), the glass-ring of one lamp is even nearly touching the head lamp bezel (02). There is no way provided to center them, they are factory “adjusted by design-engineering“. Here I show how I fixed it on the right head lamp. Same proceeding to apply for the other head lamps.
As all parts, including the beamer lining, are related to the main housing, no post-readjustment of the beamer will be needed when centered. The main unit has just to be moved toward the center position (03). To get the single head lamp unit adjustable the three fixing holes have to be enlarged to 6mm dia, or grinded to enable the needed shift. For the illustrated case here, this was not sufficient. Because the border of the main housing prevented to extend the fixing wholes as needed, this had to be done on the car-body side. I inserted riveting nuts M5 according the displacement. The aperture for the lamp unit on the car-body had as well to be grinded accordingly (04). I cut all M5 threads in the body, for easy inserting the stainless Alen screw M5 inside the assembly (05). Then I used the opportunity to give the glass-ring a soft polish (06).
Fix the lamp unit just to remain still movable. The glass-ring, as well the head lamp bezel, now have to be pre-fixed as reference for centering. When centered "by eye", remove again the head lamp bezel to have access to the fixing screws M5. With the final tightening and the re-mounted head lamp bezel the proceeding for this lamp is terminated (07). Of course, the head lamp bezel has always to be in the correct, aligned position to the fender. 
Now the head lamp assembly is finally where it should be (08).  -- SERGE –

N.B.  Depending on the front-angle when taking near pictures, the lamps seems somewhat uncentered.  

 



Edited by sermey 2012-07-17 3:17 AM




(01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg)



(02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg)



(03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg)



(04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg)



(05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg)



(06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg)



(07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg)



(08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg (129KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg (129KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg (126KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg (129KB - 327 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg (94KB - 327 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg (106KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg (114KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg (144KB - 309 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-23 11:19 AM (#331235 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest.
First remove backseat for easier handling. On the swivel seat, just rasp on each side near the both hinges, where the backrest is stopped, about 4.5mm deep (2). In back position the seat should fit on both sides (3). The angle then will increase from about 97deg to 103deg (90 + 13) (4).
Now, simply by a minor “surgical operation”, sitting in the car feels more relaxing and comfortable (5).  - SERGE -    

To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat.



Edited by sermey 2012-07-23 2:26 PM




(1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg)



(2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg)



(3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg)



(4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg)



(5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 291 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 313 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 312 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-23 3:52 PM (#331283 - in reply to #216878)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Black Painted Items 2: The black color spray I used for my items (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...), my reserve has now exhaust and couldn’t get anymore. This was the best black spray I ever used. It needed many contacts with manufacturers and suppliers to find an equivalent. And now I have found the identical one, from another supplier, in a new wrapping. It has the same fast-drying solvent, as well exactly the same satin-matt tint. All my comparative tests showed identical results.
Here how they call it newly (marketing!): Rust Stop 4 in 1, Rust protecting paint, deep black, satin mat, RAL9005, and the products description, as printed:
Active rust protection by effective 4-in-1 high-solid coating system:
1. Primer. 2. Rust protection. 3. Colour. 4. Sealing. Fast-drying and high coverage. Excellent adhesion on nearly all surfaces, even directly on rust. Liquid corrosion inhibitor. Brand: Dupli-Color (868320). In Switzerland available in LANDI (03487).

 





(New Black Spray Satin.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments New Black Spray Satin.jpg (130KB - 311 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-26 7:24 AM (#331710 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5).
To a modern radio only one of these antennas should be connected, the second antenna, as stated, to the original MF- radio, or when removed or not working, just left unconnected.
My car has two radio receivers: the original radio type 857, (MF range “5 – 16”) located in the center of the dashboard (6), the loudspeaker as well on top center dashboard (*). The other multi-band stereo receiver with musicassette player and remote controle is hidden in the glove box. (7), the 6 loudspeakers are on both front bottom sides and on the rear.
 Accordingly there are two separate antenna cables from the dual antennas, both along the right side under the sill plate to the radios. The rear left antenna leads to the original radio, the line here  is longer and less loss-sensitive at lower RF-signals, the rear right antenna goes to the modern radio needing a shorter cable, with low capacity as used today.
Now, both radios work independently, even simultaneously, without any interference and fading (8).  – SERGE –    

(*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...

 



Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM




(1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg)



(2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)



(3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)



(4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg)



(5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg)



(6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg)



(7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg)



(8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 341 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 362 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments 7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments 8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 301 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2012-07-26 4:24 PM (#331763 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Again, thanks' Serge for good tips and tricks - I will copy the swivel seat backrest modification. You are totally right, the angle is too step OEM and full tilt does not give what a driver would like to have...
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1959 Belvedere Conv
Posted 2012-07-26 11:42 PM (#331814 - in reply to #331763)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: Arvada, Colorado (NW Denver Metro Area)
Serge, I agree with Sven (Wizard) that is a great fix on the seats for a more comfortable sitting position with that modification to the stop area. I know you changed the rear seats too for a better angle of comfort but I will keep that angle as factory.

I also need to reverse my Chrome seat hinge screws, I have the slotted end inside and the clear rivet part out. I thought it looked better that way.

The seat pivot works fine but small details like that do count.

Edited by 1959 Belvedere Conv 2012-07-26 11:43 PM
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-27 2:57 AM (#331834 - in reply to #331235)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle:
Cut on both sides of the lower seat hinge in the upper end a thread of M6 and insert a headless Allen screw of 10mm length (6).
Now the modified seatback angle (7) can be re-set to its original position (8) by compensating the rasped 4.5mm with the screw. Or you can adjust the angle to a minor amount to your best comfort (9).  - SERGE -

N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS.



Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM




(6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg)



(7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg)



(8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg)



(9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments 7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 286 downloads)
Attachments 8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 261 downloads)
Attachments 9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 309 downloads)
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FIN ME
Posted 2012-08-02 10:57 AM (#332872 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Amazing stuff, Serge!

Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book!

Great photos...please keep them coming!


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sermey
Posted 2012-08-06 11:49 AM (#333469 - in reply to #332872)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :)

Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2012-08-06 11:54 AM (#333470 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41
I sacrificed various samples of micro-switches because their body was not resistant to fuel (01). Then I applied a simple way to get a cursor controlled contact, to switch ON a LED before the fuel tank is empty.
I used a copper plated board (PCB) as used in electronics. Then separated the copper plating in two sectors by grinding, one side A soldering to the ground and fixing, the other side B leading to the LED by a separate (black) wire. The hand-made cursor is soldered to the turning axis of the variable resistor (02). It needs an additional pad, very well sealed to the fuel (3). Inside, the wire is soldered (4). Just before the fuel tank is empty, the cursor grounds the LED to switch it ON. The other pad of the LED is connected to +5V (regulator), over a resistor of 180 – 470Ohm to fix the brightness.

Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car.  – SERGE -

N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device.



Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 1:48 AM




(01 - Micro-Switch.jpg)



(02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg)



(03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg)



(04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg)



(05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg)



(06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 294 downloads)
Attachments 06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 300 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-07 9:15 AM (#333604 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Diagonal Type 225/75/14”
DW = 355.6mm : [Diameter of Wheel (DW)14": 14 x 25.4mm= 355.6mm (1" = 25.4mm)]
HT = 168.75mm :[Height of the Tire (HT): 225mm x 75% = 168.75mm]
OD = 693.1mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): DW + (2 x HT) = 355.6mm + 337.5mm = 693.1mm (or 27.3")]
CC = 2176mm : [Circumference (CC): OD x 3.14 (pi) = 693.1mm x 3.14 = 2176.334 mm (or 85.7")]

Radial Type 235/70/15”
DW = 381mm : [Diameter of the Wheel (DW)15": DW = 15 x 25.4mm= 381mm]
HT = 164.5mm : [Height of the Tire (HT): HT = 235mm x 70% = 164.5mm]
OD = 710mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): OD = DW + (2 x HT) = 381mm + 329mm = 710mm (or 27.9")]
Overall Diameter measured OD = 708mm – I wonder how accurate (02).
CC = 2229.4mm : [Circumference (CC): CC = OD x 3.14 (pi) = 710mm x 3.14 = 2229.4 mm (or 87.7")]
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Differences and effects on car:
The Circumference CC (235/70/15") is 2.4% longer than the CC (225/70/14"). At same speedometer reading, now the car will run 2.4% faster. This difference is just tolerable without modifying the speedometer. Or otherwise: the speedometer will show 2.4% less at same speed. To calibrate the speedometer when needed, the return-spring in the speedometer should be lowered by lengthen, as calibrating mechanical watches.
The Overall Diameter OD (235/70/15") is 16.9mm bigger, thus the car will stay about this half amount higher. For the front this can be compensated by adjusting the torsion bars, and for the rear by setting down the high jackers.
The Wheel Distance with tires 8.00 x 14” is factory given by 60.9” (03) or 1546.8mm, on my car with the wider tires it is 1624mm, about 77mm more.
There is a noticeable difference in the Road Contact when measured: the Diagonal Type 125mm (04), and the Radial Type 175mm (05). This is 40% more! Highlighted the rear left tire on the street (06), or another front view (07).
Wider tires offer more security and power-feeling in one step. Just keep the original hubcaps on the car, and keep as well in reserve the original wheels. – SERGE –  


P.S. (01) Partly Picture: Quentin Willson “Classic American Cars”



Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 9:37 AM




(01 - Comparison Front View.jpg)



(02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg)



(03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg)



(04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg)



(05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg)



(06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg)



(07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 281 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 304 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 302 downloads)
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2012-08-07 10:07 PM (#333728 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Posts: 218
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Thanks for sharing all the great tips, I will apply many to my car (as soon as I get one). Your car is awesome!
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Windsor59
Posted 2012-08-08 2:50 AM (#333746 - in reply to #333728)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden
Hi sermey
Your are Good to ut better,
I dont like this, maby you can Do this better: Only one stop when you open the door
At fl Cars. I Will have two stop. Some times at parking you have not lots off space, and only can oppend
The door litle.
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-08 2:50 AM (#333747 - in reply to #333728)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Leadfoot1000 - 2012-08-08 4:07 AM Thanks for sharing all the great tips, I will apply many to my car (as soon as I get one). Your car is awesome!

Thank you and as new member welcome on this site.

What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference.  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 2:29 PM
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-08 3:38 PM (#333803 - in reply to #333604)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND
Wide tires: Supplement

Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 3:40 PM




(Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg (169KB - 452 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-10 7:02 AM (#334028 - in reply to #333746)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Windsor59 - 2012-08-08 8:50 AM Hi sermey  Only one stop when you open the door At fl Cars. I Will have two stop.  . . .

A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2012-08-14 8:04 PM (#334633 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage.
Apply with an ultra fine brush or needle (*), and when dried, remove the over-paint simply by rubbing with the finger or a school rubber. If too resistive use a fine cloth, moistened with solvent without pressing.
Now, the newly filled fine scripts have got a much higher contrast and thus become significantly better readable.  – SERGE -     

(*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal.



Edited by sermey 2012-08-14 8:30 PM




(01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg)



(02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg)



(03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 351 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 371 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-01 3:42 AM (#337112 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Leaking Valve Covers: At the first glance it seemed to be an easy thing to mount the valve covers without any leaking  .  .  .  .  .  but finally I got it.
First all contact surfaces of the valve cover have to be properly mated all around. Often, around the bolt  holes the cover is deformed due to a previous too strong tightening.
For a sure sealing, Silicon Gasket (as already presented earlier) is applied just on the inner edges of the valve cover (1). Remember: this is not glue for fixing and will not harden. It remains soft (20 shore) and allows an easy removal of the cover. Any other similar Silicon can be used, but it must be resistant to temperatures in the range of -40 to +180deg. Before tightening, when visible the gasket then can be pushed under the cover (2).
To avoid local high pressing and a deformation around the head of the bolt, special hold-down brackets are being used. These give two additional extended hold-down points (3). The big washer improves the local stability around the bolt holes, shorten virtually the bolt for the cap nut and hide the eccentric bore.

Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5).  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-09-01 3:03 PM




(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)



(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)



(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)



(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)



(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 426 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 375 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 348 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 368 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-01 1:27 PM (#337134 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.

Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-09-02 4:27 AM




(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)



(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)



(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)



(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 469 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 343 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 354 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-04 8:31 AM (#337454 - in reply to #337134)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Carpets and Floor Mats 2: On the market a wide range of said "Original Floor Mats" are offered. There are very nice ones and available at a reasonable price. Others, described as “original” size doesn’t fit at all.
I set my personal standards on quality, material, color and finish, mainly based on practical considerations. Furthermore, on a Convertible some specs on carpets have higher weighting, being more exposed than on a Sedan.
Here my arguments:
1. The quality. There are two basic carpet versions being used: the "loop pile" and the "cut pile" (05). Practical arguments brought me to use exclusively "cut pile" carpet.(06):
Cleaning a carpet from any dirt, the "loop pile" prevents to remove it, the dirt will even enter more in the carpet. Furthermore, hanging on a loop, the carpet may be damaged all along a line.
Other the "cut pile": when brushing, the slanted pile supports to take out the dirt easily. It is invisible, when added two parts together, or when inserted a round stamped sample in damaged spots.
Walking on a good quality cut pile floor is noticeable much more comfortable, and it has a better absorbance of sound and noise.
2. The material. In a car, exposed to humidity and oil, a full synthetic material is a must. It doesn't rot, thus offer a longer lifetime, and is much more resistive to aggressive cleanser.
3. The color. It should match to the interior of the car, preferably unicolored not visually interfering to other items. Unicolor generally looks more precious, is calmative, but as well more delicate when not clean.
4. The finish: Solid and wear resistant base enabling to glue when needed, no under foam-coating, all around bordered to prevent fringing.
On my Convertible, at the time not finding floor insertions or original mats, all was custom made with loop pile carpets, black synthetic, solid tissue base and vinyl-bordered all around (07) (08).
Instead of bordering, on straight edging a plastic profiles as used to fix papers can be applied as protection (09). The same profile I used inside of my door sills (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=184&start=13). If needed for attaching, rubber or plastic items can be inserted as shown (10).
(will be continued)




(05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg)



(06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg)



(07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg)



(08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg)



(09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg)



(10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (96KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (154KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg (130KB - 370 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg (132KB - 340 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg (109KB - 366 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg (109KB - 362 downloads)
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mogge65
Posted 2012-09-04 9:22 PM (#337545 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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This thread is really outstanding, just love to read an see what he´s up to! Sermey "The Magic Man"
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2012-09-08 1:01 AM (#337959 - in reply to #161298)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Posts: 218
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sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM

15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time.

The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims.

I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps.

Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection.

(can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as)



Hi Sermey, I plan to get 235-70/15's for my car also. Can you please tell me what's the width of the white walls on your tires? Your choice of white walls provides the same look I'm trying to achieve. By the way, I bought a car a few weeks ago if you want to see it under Member's Rides title "My 57 New Yorker." Steve
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-08 7:16 AM (#337971 - in reply to #337959)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Leadfoot1000 - 2012-09-08 7:01 AM
sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM . . . .  what's the width of the white walls on your tires?  Steve

Measured on the car:   70.5mm = 2.775"

According the Manufacturer Coker Tire:   Radial P235/70R15, WW 2n3/4 (see attached Specs 2012)    - SERGE -
 



Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 7:25 AM




(1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg (231KB - 345 downloads)
Attachments 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.pdf (148KB - 494 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-08 12:13 PM (#338017 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Fan Shroud: My car didn’t had a Fan Shroud (01). On a car meeting I purchased a Chrome Metal Fan Shroud, thinking this would give the engine compartment a more valuated look, will prevent parts or screws falling on the propeller when working at idling, and as protection from casually touch inside. (old Pic 02). So far so good.
In hot summer, at longer stops and idling I encountered critical heating situations, the engine room got quite hot. I was reflecting: without a shroud, the fan blows not only axial, but as well partially radial as a centrifugal fan. My Metal Shroud, covering only 65% of the propeller, now caused in idle more air to be centrifuged downward instead towards the engine. -> Just check it!
I took a high temperature Heat Protective Mat (03), put this over a panel to seal airtight underneath the fan and front (04). As result, the heating was noticeable reduced. Then I purchased two Chrome Metal Shrouds, the longest available (170mm), one for the upper, the other one for the lower side of the fan. They had to be exactly marked for a partly cut-out to fit all around (05). Needed cut-outs for: the water hose (06), the generator belt (07), the steering pump, the transmission oil lines (08), and a bending on the fuel pump side (09). All these cuts were previously simulated with a cardboard sample. Then the prepared two halves (to see lower Shroud) (10) (11) could be mounted very easy, without disassembling anything, and fixed with long bolts through the radiator.
The distance of the shroud to the propeller, here should be taken in consideration the movement of the engine on bad streets. The short Metal Shroud was initially mounted too near, as signs of contacts can be seen on the comparison (12).

Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13).   - SERGE -   

Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items!



Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 12:35 PM




(01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg)



(02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg)



(03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg)



(04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg)



(05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg)



(06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg)



(07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg)



(08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg)



(09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg)



(10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg)



(11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg)



(12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg)



(13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 350 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 373 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 363 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 376 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 368 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 364 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 380 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 389 downloads)
Attachments 11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 350 downloads)
Attachments 12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 353 downloads)
Attachments 13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 354 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-09 10:58 AM (#338129 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Trunk Edge: The lower trunk edge is most exposed to damage when loading items not carefully. The paint is most badly affected. In addition, this edge is even not exactly straight.
A profile in plastic or rubber, preferably in the cars color, could eliminate this situation. I found a plastic channel used in electric installations, in white as the car (1). The cover fits to the trunk edge as required (2). The trunk seal keep it in the right position (3) ( ! the carpet is black and ends up with the profile). Some rubber profiles or a small slotted hose would work as well.

Now, the trunk edge is protected, straight, no color damages anymore, all as it should always be (4).  – SERGE -      




(1 - White Profile.jpg)



(2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg)



(3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg)



(4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - White Profile.jpg (68KB - 378 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg (139KB - 405 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg (119KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg (98KB - 360 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2014-05-11 8:03 AM (#440274 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem

used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05).

Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher!   - SERGE -   :laugh: 


 



Edited by sermey 2014-05-11 8:15 AM




(01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg)



(02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg)



(03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg)



(04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg)



(05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments 02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments 05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 309 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2014-05-16 12:28 PM (#441072 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03).

Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -

 



Edited by sermey 2014-05-16 12:34 PM




(01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg)



(02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg)



(03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg)



(04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments 02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 301 downloads)
Attachments 04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 286 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2014-05-16 2:25 PM (#441084 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Nice idea Serge, thanks' for sharing!
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sermey
Posted 2014-05-23 3:44 PM (#442055 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward.

Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04).

Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible?  - SERGE - 





(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg)



(02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg)



(03 Emblem RH -25.jpg)



(04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments 02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments 03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 275 downloads)
Attachments 04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 317 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2014-05-27 4:22 PM (#442514 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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That looks really like a nice emblem Serge - fact I don't recall ever seeing such a nicely shaped one?! Is there a story behind??
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FIN ME
Posted 2014-06-08 7:53 AM (#444193 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Looks great, Serge!

Love your work. You are part mechanic, part artist!

Astounding attention to detail!


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sermey
Posted 2015-04-06 1:27 PM (#474519 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works.

Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05).

Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable.

The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency.

The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)!

To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap  (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat.

With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light!  - SERGE -  :laugh:





(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg)



(02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg)



(03 Load Resistors.jpg)



(04 Electronic Flasher.jpg)



(05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg)



(06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg)



(07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg)



(08 Dessert Cap.jpg)



(09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 282 downloads)
Attachments 03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 261 downloads)
Attachments 04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 262 downloads)
Attachments 06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 296 downloads)
Attachments 07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments 08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 261 downloads)
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ttotired
Posted 2015-04-06 6:42 PM (#474543 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Very good

Always enjoy reading this thread (been a long time since something new)

I will add though that those "scotch locks" (red wire taps) belong in the bin, nothing but electrical gremlin makers especially on anything that draws a current

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sermey
Posted 2015-04-07 11:43 AM (#474633 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers.

Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron).

Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork.

I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2.  - SERGE -





(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg)



(02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg)



(03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg)



(04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg)



(05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg)



(06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg)



(07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg)



(08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg)



(09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg)



(10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 266 downloads)
Attachments 02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 291 downloads)
Attachments 03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 260 downloads)
Attachments 04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 290 downloads)
Attachments 05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments 06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 275 downloads)
Attachments 07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments 08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 245 downloads)
Attachments 09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 284 downloads)
Attachments 10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 264 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2015-04-08 11:49 AM (#474748 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs.

I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE – 

 



Edited by sermey 2015-04-08 12:05 PM




(01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg)



(02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 244 downloads)
Attachments 02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 304 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2015-04-08 1:49 PM (#474762 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Hi Serge

With a big interest I'm following your thred. You're like a Wizard here in Switzerland. Thank you very much for all your helpful hints. I'm sure I could use some of your hints for my Letter after it comes back from the body shop. I'm happy I could meet you at Zug on April 20th this year and we'll do the journey to the PBM together. Big hugs.

Till later, take care,

 

Dieter

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1960fury
Posted 2015-04-08 2:27 PM (#474767 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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hoodinki - 2015-04-08 12:13 PM

We all got that stick, I prefer the unscrewable wooden type on push brooms. I remember needing these, and a wheel chuck to keep in the trunk for parking on hills if you had a Powerflite, back in the 1970s for my Plymouth. Not really MBZ engineering going on back then. No wonder Plymouth is now Dead,.


wtf?! in 100 000s of miles driving my plymouth or other fls i never had the slightest problems with hood springs or the very efficient parking brakes. they lock the tires anytime and on the steepest hills. don't blame these fine cars for poor maintenance. these cars are build for the eternity IF properly serviced.
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sermey
Posted 2015-04-19 4:42 AM (#475941 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Front Light Connections: All wires of the front lights lead to a Terminal Block located in front of the battery (01).

This Terminal Block has 5 connectors (1 – 5 from left to right). For a nicer appearance, it is fixed with polished stainless pan-head screws (M5), the connector bolts are covered with cap nuts, and the leading wires are hold in black (02).

The schematic diagram can be found in the Service Manual DODGE 59 Supplement, here a part restricted to the front lights (03). The connections on my car are originally slightly different then shown in the manual (04). They could not be interchanged because of the exact length of the wires.

There is a nice repro of the terminal connector available, at a reasonable price (05). The connections of the terminal block I added as well in PDF.  - SERGE -





(01 Terminal Location.jpg)



(02 Terminal Block.jpg)



(03 Front Light Schematic.jpg)



(04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg)



(05 Connector Repro.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Terminal Location.jpg (118KB - 345 downloads)
Attachments 02 Terminal Block.jpg (118KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments 03 Front Light Schematic.jpg (91KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg (77KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments 05 Connector Repro.jpg (101KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments 06 Connections Terminal Block.pdf (6KB - 327 downloads)
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Lancer Mike
Posted 2015-04-19 11:22 AM (#475968 - in reply to #475941)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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outstanding, Serge - I always enjoy reading this thread. Your attention to detail and inventiveness is remarkable.
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wizard
Posted 2015-04-19 1:09 PM (#475981 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Always interesting to read Serges posts - careful work to enhance the car
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sermey
Posted 2015-04-24 3:00 AM (#476474 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1080
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Push Buttons: When restoring the Push Buttons a time ago, I had to remove the old paint in the letters. All chemical way where to aggressive, I used a soft diluent to be cleaned with water. But this plastic is so “weak”, that not only the paint was removed, but as well the front was badly affected. I had to grind it down and then use letter sticker (01), protected by a transparent foil (02).

Most Push Buttons are irreparably damaged by Finger Nails. It is very rare to find one with intact letters (03). Finally I found now a set in acceptable condition (04).

This time I didn’t use any chemistry at all (05), cleaned them with a soft brass brush (06), and got them all quite nice (07). The paint for the letters (red as used for the Instuments) I applied locally with a needle, removed instantly the color around with a rubber scraper, and when dried grinded the front (08). To fix and center the caps I put some tape around (white), inserted again a protective transparent foil, and for a soft return I added an O-Ring over the cap (09).

Now the Push Buttons look again as they should and are protected from Finger Nails: Clear letters and nice to look at.  - SERGE -   

 



Edited by sermey 2015-04-24 3:12 AM




(01 Push Buttons restored.jpg)



(02 Sticked Letters.jpg)



(03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg)



(04 Used Push Button.jpg)



(05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg)



(06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg)



(07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg)



(08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg)



(09 Push Button Assembly.jpg)



(10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Push Buttons restored.jpg (104KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 02 Sticked Letters.jpg (80KB - 350 downloads)
Attachments 03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg (117KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 04 Used Push Button.jpg (113KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments 05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg (60KB - 356 downloads)
Attachments 06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg (80KB - 339 downloads)
Attachments 07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg (58KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments 08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg (90KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments 09 Push Button Assembly.jpg (77KB - 359 downloads)
Attachments 10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg (115KB - 357 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2015-04-24 3:18 AM (#476476 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Lot of patience and love for the work at hand - those pushbuttons could'nt be any better.
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sermey
Posted 2015-04-29 9:13 AM (#476922 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Six-Way Seat Adjuster Switch: By a single bar of the switch, all six positions of the seat can be adjusted (01).

Forward -  Backward (5 inches)      Higher -  Lower (2 inches)      Tilt CW -  CCW (18 degrees) (02).

As the initial current of the seat adjustment is quite high, the contacts should be checked from time to time (03) (04).  The color of the wires must be correct, the switch is folded down for rear view (05).

Later I found another switch as spare part, mounted on a chrome bezel, as illustrated in the owners manual (06). This bezel should be on front side of the seat. To keep the nice golden emblem I put it reversed on the rear side - and it fits as it should be. The top view shows the mounting bracket and the power seat motor (07). The red main wire is connected after the circuit breaker located on the top lift switch, this as well the power windows. The chrome bezel is mounted with the two existing screws of the switch, thus easy to remove if one day dislike.

But for now, a bit more chrome on my Convertible! (08) – SERGE - 

 

 

 



Edited by sermey 2015-04-29 9:26 AM




(01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg)



(02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg)



(03 Contact Elements.jpg)



(04 Power Switch Components.jpg)



(05 Connections Rear View.jpg)



(06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg)



(07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg)



(08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg (103KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg (92KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 03 Contact Elements.jpg (67KB - 311 downloads)
Attachments 04 Power Switch Components.jpg (82KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments 05 Connections Rear View.jpg (102KB - 359 downloads)
Attachments 06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg (121KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg (110KB - 345 downloads)
Attachments 08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg (116KB - 327 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2015-04-29 10:24 AM (#476931 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Thank you very much Serge for this information. In my Letter I got a six way electric adjustable drivers seat as well. The switch looks different on a 1960 Mopar, but I assume the basic function is the same - one motor, three clutches.

 

Happy Motoring!

 

Dieter

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1961plymouthfury
Posted 2015-04-29 11:54 AM (#476935 - in reply to #476931)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

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Thank You for the 411
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sermey
Posted 2015-05-03 8:34 PM (#477275 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dome Lamp: With time the plastic lens goes brown and burns out in the center, due to excessive heat by the bulb. This is already observable in the original brochure of the 1959 Dodge Convertible, burned lens zoomed right down (01). As these lenses are highly demanded, reproductions are available up to USD 80 a pair (02). A single NOS Dome Lamp Lens Imperial with crown insigna is offered for USD155 (03).

To replace the lens, the fixing pins on the rear shell have to be bent out with the result that they mostly break off. Therefore break out one of the three pins for the lens can be removed, replace it by a soldered one, and grind a slot in the metal retainer. Now it can be fixed or removed anytime just by twisting (04).

To avoid a newly deformation of the replaced lens by heat a LED, no longer then 35mm, is advised in replacement of the bulb (05). This special bulb has two terminals, plus and minus, the socket is isolated, means not grounded. One pin is connected to plus, the other pin to minus when the door switch is activated. As I could not find such a LED I had to do some “surgical” interventions:

- Unsolder the two contacts and the four fixing points of the socket for removal (06).

- Socket removed (07).

As shown, one contact leads direct to the LED unit for a bright light, the other contact to the same point but over a resistor of 15 Ohm for a lower light. The ground (-) goes to the socket, as expected (07).

- Connect the resistor to minus (for lower light), and cut out the cupper of the printed circuit board in order to disconnect the ground (08).

- Resolder the socket on the LED unit as it was previously. The LED has become a direct replacement of the original bulb (09).

 

Now the dome lamp shows a brighter white light, without any burning of the plastic lens (10). - SERGE - 

 

P.S. Numbering of the pictures corrected.

 



Edited by sermey 2015-05-03 9:08 PM




(01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg)



(02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg)



(03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg)



(04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg)



(05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg)



(06 Socket Removal.jpg)



(07 Socket Removed.jpg)



(08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg)



(09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg)



(10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg (132KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments 02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg (81KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg (137KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg (61KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments 05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg (66KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments 06 Socket Removal.jpg (91KB - 362 downloads)
Attachments 07 Socket Removed.jpg (50KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments 08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg (60KB - 344 downloads)
Attachments 09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg (81KB - 364 downloads)
Attachments 10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg (114KB - 322 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2015-05-12 10:41 AM (#478081 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Car Production Broadcast: My restored Car Production Broadcast I had already presented a time ago in the appropriate forum. In this thread here I just show HOW I did it, not must be the best way to go – but it works.

Scan the sheet with 1200dpi in precise vertical/horizontal orientation with Photoshop. It needs Win7 64-bit with at least 8MB RAM. The original scan is in the first layer named background (01). The layer 00 is a copy of the background in case of a disaster. . . . (01).

Create the next layers 01 – 06 for individual mastering, and freeze them from moving (02).

The layer 01 is the background pattern of the sheet, sample taken in a clean segment in layer 00. Remember, this background in not a uniform color, thus a pattern!

Next copy the selected items from layer 00 into the designated layers as shown in (02), ready there for clean and restore individually. If the result in a layer is not satisfactory, then just delete and re-copy it.

Examples of restored layers:

Layer 02: Original Text with Grid brown (03).

Layer 03: Original Typed Numbers black (04).

The typed numbers are not upgraded as they could be in order to keep their authentification. When all layers have been restored, merge all in one layer to stay fixed. This will be the final Car Production Broadcast Restored, saved here in a smaller resolution, as JPG-Picture (05), or 1 : 1 as PDF-File with 144dpi (because of the 250k limitation) (08).

The letters and the grid can as well be reproduced instead restored. Here the letters then are taken from the font library (Arial, Bold, Smooth, Color RGB: 207-113-46) and the lines are created by construction, all in Photoshop. In direct comparison to the original in the left, the difference is hardly visible (06). The Original Typed Numbers remains as before (04). Each single number can be selected, copied and inserted individually for another specific sheet (07).

Now, any missing Car Production Broadcast can be re-created by anyone. Happy printing!   - SERGE -





(01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg)



(02 Layers Listing.jpg)



(03 Original Text with Grid.jpg)



(04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg)



(05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg)



(06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg)



(07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg (123KB - 380 downloads)
Attachments 02 Layers Listing.jpg (118KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments 03 Original Text with Grid.jpg (119KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments 04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg (40KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg (132KB - 363 downloads)
Attachments 06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg (122KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments 07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg (137KB - 348 downloads)
Attachments 08 Car Production Broadcast Restored 144dpi.pdf (120KB - 341 downloads)
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ToMopar
Posted 2015-05-13 6:29 AM (#478134 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Elite Veteran

Posts: 875
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Location: D-70199 Heslach
Serge, It's great to "restore" all the history what comes with the car. Great work!
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d500neil
Posted 2015-05-15 12:18 PM (#478355 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

Posts: 19171
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Location: bishop, ca
PM sent (very-soon!)

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sermey
Posted 2015-05-20 4:10 AM (#478891 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

License Plate Lamp: For a brighter light the bulb can as well be replaced by a LED. The lamp unit is fixed with a bracket (01) (02). The heat of the bulb, consuming 5W, causes the lens to melt partially (03).

As replacement I used the same LED as for the dome lights. The contacts here are brigded for a full power (04). The fixing pins on the LED can be left as is. Just bent out the tab, on the concerned side of the lamp socket, for turning the LED in, view one side and the other side (05).

Now the license plate shines brighter at lower power consumption, and without melting the lens anymore (06). - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2015-05-20 6:15 AM




(01 Lamp Unit.jpg)



(02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg)



(03 Melted Lens.jpg)



(04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg)



(05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg)



(06 Bright License Plate.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Lamp Unit.jpg (72KB - 342 downloads)
Attachments 02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg (84KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments 03 Melted Lens.jpg (71KB - 364 downloads)
Attachments 04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg (88KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg (80KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 06 Bright License Plate.jpg (100KB - 314 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2015-05-20 6:07 AM (#478897 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Hell! It looks wonderful. Thank you very much Serge.

Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points?

 

Kind  regards,

 

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2015-05-20 6:08 AM
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sermey
Posted 2015-05-20 6:20 AM (#478898 - in reply to #478897)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

. . . Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points? . . .

Yes Dieter, but I wanted the brightest light by using a "STOP"- LED that fits in the lamp unit. - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2015-05-20 3:14 PM
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57plybel
Posted 2015-07-30 5:58 AM (#485614 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 584
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

Love this thread, Sermey;   beautiful work on a perfect restoration IMHO....    great idea with the low fuel warning and the thermoplastic work.  It would take me a lifetime to reach this standard of restoration...

 

There is a fuel pump relay which has a trigger from the distributor I believe.  It senses revs above cranking speed and only supplies power in this senario... upon stalling ( zero revs) power and thus fuel pump are inoperative..,.

 

 

Colin

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jimntempe
Posted 2015-07-30 2:16 PM (#485661 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Posts: 2312
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Location: Arizona
Some fuel pump relays get their power thru an oil pressure switch. So when the revs drop to zero and oil pressure also drops to zero the fuel pump power is shut off.
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sermey
Posted 2015-08-03 4:39 PM (#486158 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Glove Box Compartment: A Crypton bulb type produces a whiter light but consumes some more power (01). As LED replacement I selected the long type (02). The diffusion of the light is circular, as needed for this application (03).

Just swap the devices? No, the socket of the bulb with integrated switch has reversed polarity (04). The (+) of the bulb will be grounded, at reversed voltage the LED cannot work.

In order to keep this socket as original, there was no other way then to interchange the LED connections, as already shown. De-solder the connection and the lamp socket can be removed, for it is just pushed on the plastic base (05). That’s why I had some problems to mount the LED, I turned the LED-Unit whereas the lamp socket didn’t.

Then reverse the polarity in the LED and extend the wire (06), push on the lamp socket, solder and glue it (07). Done.

As my built-in radio covers partly the illumination, I added a LED-Array (08) in parallel to the replacement LED. It is supplied by two wires, the red wire is soldered on a (+12V) pad in front of the unit, the blue wire (GRD) now on the lamp socket (09). Then again: Push on the lamp socket, solder and glue it (10).

Checking the set at reduced voltage (for picture), both lamps work together as one unit (11) and is ready for mount.

Backside the LED-Array there is an adhesive surface for easy fixing, here on bottom of the radio.

Except the side walls, I have covered the box inside with a black carpet inlay, a rest of my cars carpet (12).

Then the right edge of the glove box has become damaged in friction with the metal door arm (13). For protection I inserted a plastic profile as used to fix paper sheets (13). This edge now is protected from further stress with the door arm (14).

Finally, the glove box compartment shows an evenly spread illumination and the interior looks nice (15).   – SERGE -   :laugh:





(01 Glove Box Bulb.jpg)



(02 Bulb and replacement LEDs.jpg)



(03 Long LED ON.jpg)



(04 Lamp Socket with Switch.jpg)



(05 LED Socket removed.jpg)



(06 LED Polarity reversed.jpg)



(07 LED Socket pushed on - soldered - glued.jpg)



(08 LED Array 12V.jpg)



(09 Plus on LED Socket.jpg)



(10 Fixing the LED Socket.jpg)



(11 Checking the Set.jpg)



(12 Black Carpet Overlay.jpg)



(13 Right Box Edge Damaged.jpg)



(14 Plastic Profile.jpg)



(15 Exposed Edge Protected.jpg)



(16 Final Glove Box Compartment.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Glove Box Bulb.jpg (96KB - 333 downloads)
Attachments 02 Bulb and replacement LEDs.jpg (69KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 03 Long LED ON.jpg (64KB - 340 downloads)
Attachments 04 Lamp Socket with Switch.jpg (43KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 05 LED Socket removed.jpg (96KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments 06 LED Polarity reversed.jpg (82KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments 07 LED Socket pushed on - soldered - glued.jpg (88KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments 08 LED Array 12V.jpg (81KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 09 Plus on LED Socket.jpg (82KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments 10 Fixing the LED Socket.jpg (77KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments 11 Checking the Set.jpg (64KB - 331 downloads)
Attachments 12 Black Carpet Overlay.jpg (66KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 13 Right Box Edge Damaged.jpg (104KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments 14 Plastic Profile.jpg (57KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 15 Exposed Edge Protected.jpg (94KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 16 Final Glove Box Compartment.jpg (93KB - 361 downloads)
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jimntempe
Posted 2015-08-06 8:47 PM (#486474 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 2312
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Location: Arizona
Speaking of LEDs, My turn signal lenses have darkened with time to the point where you can't even tell when the signals are on during the day. I did some checking and the #57 indicator bulbs put out about 3 candlepower. I found some replacement green LEDs that put out about 9 cp at www.superbrightleds.com . I put them in for the turn signal indicators and a red LED for the high beams and now I can see my indicator lights in daylight!!!

Photos in my album http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?album...
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ToMopar
Posted 2015-09-08 6:40 AM (#489208 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Elite Veteran

Posts: 875
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Location: D-70199 Heslach
Serge,

your car was pictured by a friend



(2015-Schweiz_Uster-041x.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 2015-Schweiz_Uster-041x.jpg (191KB - 298 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2015-09-12 6:39 AM (#489484 - in reply to #489208)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Thank you for posting, Tom. It was a very hot day, therefore my car with top up - and some people topless!  - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2015-09-12 6:40 AM (#489485 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Cable for Set the Time: The time of the electric clock on the 59 DODGE is being set by a separate control knob mounted under the dashboard (01). The original time setting cable at 30cm length is too short for remove the instruments unit without disconnect it (02). Not only, the white vinyl shell has become stiff due to age and thus, any used replacement I purchased, was broken on the clockside end.

I found a replacement Scooter Speedometer Cable (04), with similar coupling to the clock (05). This new coupler including the core, original 3.2mm – new 3.0mm, could be used as is with small modifications (06). Just extend the gap and reduce the length as the sample (07).

This highly flexible metal shelI must be cut on both sides to the new length by grinding (08). When heating the connectors, the vinyl shell of the old cable can be removed easily on both sides (09)(10). As soldered the connection will never come out again: Tin first the junction surfaces of both parts (11). Then when heated push the shell into the connector, it just fits (12).

Because the old core couldn’t be removed from the control axis, the pressed part had to be grinded around. Deepen the so shortened hole of the control axis (3,2mm) by 8mm. The control axis and the new core are glued with a strong Cyanolit, always respecting the original working distances. Don't forget to insert the spring before! A fine tuning of the functionality can be done by heating the soldered connector and moving it, in order to extend or reduce the length up to 1mm, this on both sides of the control cable (13).

 

Now, the new remote cable for set the time is ready to mount, works as the original one, but is much longer, with a steel shell and again flexible (14).  – SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2015-09-12 10:57 AM




(01 Clock Time Setting Knob.jpg)



(02 Original Time Setting Cable.jpg)



(03 Label Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg)



(04 Connections Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg)



(05 Clockside Coupler.jpg)



(06 Comparison Couplers Clockside.jpg)



(07 Modifying Gap and Length of new Coupler.jpg)



(08 Cutting both sides to the new Length.jpg)



(09 Remove the Vinyl Tube by Heating.jpg)



(10 Removed Broken Vinyl Tube.jpg)



(11 Tinned Connector ready for Solder.jpg)



(12 Soldered Connector.jpg)



(13 Assembled Time Setting Cable.jpg)



(14 Old and New Time Setting Cable.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Clock Time Setting Knob.jpg (118KB - 371 downloads)
Attachments 02 Original Time Setting Cable.jpg (31KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 03 Label Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg (114KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 04 Connections Scooter Speedometer Cable.jpg (43KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments 05 Clockside Coupler.jpg (48KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments 06 Comparison Couplers Clockside.jpg (77KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments 07 Modifying Gap and Length of new Coupler.jpg (85KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments 08 Cutting both sides to the new Length.jpg (70KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments 09 Remove the Vinyl Tube by Heating.jpg (71KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments 10 Removed Broken Vinyl Tube.jpg (58KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments 11 Tinned Connector ready for Solder.jpg (56KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments 12 Soldered Connector.jpg (55KB - 343 downloads)
Attachments 13 Assembled Time Setting Cable.jpg (79KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 14 Old and New Time Setting Cable.jpg (55KB - 343 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2015-09-12 7:56 AM (#489487 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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It's nice to see the final result as you informed me about that you worked on this project Serge! Another "sergerized" improvement, thanks' for sharing this smart solution!
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ToMopar
Posted 2016-02-02 4:51 PM (#503052 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Elite Veteran

Posts: 875
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Location: D-70199 Heslach
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sermey
Posted 2016-02-19 6:11 PM (#504647 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Air-Deflector: The Air-Deflector under the dashboard distributes the incoming air from the center inlet to the left and right passenger side. It is made with a 1.5mm cardboard, therefore very sensitive to deformation, especially exposed when removing the radio. In my car this item was already badly damaged, and here out of function (01).

Fixed with three screws it can easy be removed. From this a flat template could be reconstructed (02), and then modeled in 3D-CAD (03, 04).

As material the backboard of a A4-scratchpad can be used, I found a thickness of 1.3mm that could simply be cut with a scissor (05). For a straight, edged ply use a bench vice, each side separate (05a). Painting in black to fit the surrounding and increasing the stiffness as well, after a distance check (100mm) the new Air-Deflector was ready to be mounted (06).

Now the incoming air is redirected, as it should - another small and simple restoration (07).  - SERGE - 

 

N.B. I didn’t removed the Air-Deflector when mounting back the Radio – first signs of “contacts” can already be seen!

The Template in PDF, A4, 1:1, ready for direct print-out, is added (08).

 



Edited by sermey 2016-02-19 10:14 PM




(01 Air-Deflector Damaged.jpg)



(02 Template Air Deflector Flat.jpg)



(03 Air Deflector FrontView CAD.jpg)



(04 Air Deflector SideView CAD.jpg)



(05 Cut and Bent.jpg)



(05a Plying the Cardboard.jpg)



(06 Painted and Verifying Distance.jpg)



(07 New Air-Deflector Mounted.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Air-Deflector Damaged.jpg (69KB - 280 downloads)
Attachments 02 Template Air Deflector Flat.jpg (53KB - 282 downloads)
Attachments 03 Air Deflector FrontView CAD.jpg (76KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments 04 Air Deflector SideView CAD.jpg (113KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 05 Cut and Bent.jpg (94KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments 05a Plying the Cardboard.jpg (83KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments 06 Painted and Verifying Distance.jpg (94KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 07 New Air-Deflector Mounted.jpg (164KB - 281 downloads)
Attachments 08 Template Air-Deflector A4-300dpi.pdf (78KB - 269 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2016-02-23 2:47 PM (#504977 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

 Speedometer 1: In the 1959 Dodge “the bar-type safety speedometer indicates green to 30 m.p.h., amber from 30 to 50 m.p.h., and red above 50 m.p.h.(Ross Roy)”. There are two different speedometer types, A and B. The second B has the additional option “speed warning signal” (01).

 Visually the two speedometers differ in various aspects as shown in direct comparison: Front Panel (02), Rear Panel (03), View Right Side (04), Different Covers (05) and Different Spring Systems (06).

Due to the additional mechanics of the speed warning system, the drums (axes) and the glasses are not the same. Important to know is that the speed scales and the color bars on the drum are identical for both types (07).  Pictures from my spare parts.

(will be continued)  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2016-02-23 5:54 PM




(01 Speed Warning Signal (Ross Roy).jpg)



(02 Front Panel.jpg)



(03 Rear Panel.jpg)



(04 View Right Side.jpg)



(05 Different Covers.jpg)



(06 Different Spring Systems.jpg)



(07 View Inside - Identical Color Bars.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Speed Warning Signal (Ross Roy).jpg (110KB - 266 downloads)
Attachments 02 Front Panel.jpg (87KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments 03 Rear Panel.jpg (69KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 04 View Right Side.jpg (82KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 05 Different Covers.jpg (76KB - 284 downloads)
Attachments 06 Different Spring Systems.jpg (87KB - 271 downloads)
Attachments 07 View Inside - Identical Color Bars.jpg (110KB - 309 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2016-02-26 8:19 AM (#505241 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Speedometer 2: With age, humidity and light, the bar colors on the drum fade out and loose visibility – NOS replacement drums are very hard to find, when found it is mostly not the one you need (01).

Easiest is to apply a new speedometer decal (02), preferable in thin resistive plastic. As the drum endings may vary, the decal must be aligned to the right side, and if needed cut on the left side (03).

When the scale fits exactly to the original, no additional calibration is needed. Simply check with a BW Copy (04).

In a CAD simulation the steps are illustrated (05) (06) (07), and the final result shown in (08) (09).

A printable PDF-File is added , A4, 1 : 1, correct decal size 234.2 x 119mm (10). The colors may vary insignificantly depending of the used printer type.

Verify the printed colors with the original and correct if needed.

Now a new speedometer scale without disassembling and/or replacing the drum.  - SERGE - 

 

Notice: Many printer reduce the size marginally, even when set at 100%. My A4 "BROTHER" has to be set at 100.5% to get print-out the exact width of 234.2mm (to be verified!).

 



Edited by sermey 2016-02-26 8:54 PM




(01 NOS Auto-lite Drum.jpg)



(02 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal..jpg)



(03 Drum Ends Comparison.jpg)



(04 Accuracy Check.jpg)



(05 Decal Ready CAD.jpg)



(06 Pre-Position Decal CAD.jpg)



(07 Final Position Check CAD.jpg)



(08 Applied Decal Front Side CAD.jpg)



(09 Applied Decal Rear Side CAD.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 NOS Auto-lite Drum.jpg (125KB - 275 downloads)
Attachments 02 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal..jpg (105KB - 272 downloads)
Attachments 03 Drum Ends Comparison.jpg (124KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 04 Accuracy Check.jpg (104KB - 276 downloads)
Attachments 05 Decal Ready CAD.jpg (99KB - 271 downloads)
Attachments 06 Pre-Position Decal CAD.jpg (98KB - 310 downloads)
Attachments 07 Final Position Check CAD.jpg (101KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 08 Applied Decal Front Side CAD.jpg (67KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments 09 Applied Decal Rear Side CAD.jpg (63KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 10 1959 Dodge Speedometer Decal A4.pdf (77KB - 241 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2016-02-27 10:19 AM (#505328 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Speedometer 3: The speedometer bar should show zero when the car is not moving, then it is adjusted correctly.

When the green bar already shows an amount then the speedometer is mismatched as shown with the original drum (01), and similar with the new decal (02).

Not showing any green at all, there is probably an under setting (03). The fine adjustment is done by removing the right cover, and shifting carefully the spring system with a pointy tool (04).

For a secure and correct setting the initial green bar should preferably just be visible (05). Now the speedometer shows as it was the first day  - SERGE - 

 



Edited by sermey 2016-02-27 10:28 AM




(01 Original Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg)



(02 New Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg)



(03 New Speedometer - Zero Minus.jpg)



(04 Zero Adjustment.jpg)



(05 New Speedometer - Zero Correct Setting.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Original Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg (102KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 02 New Speedometer - Mismatched.jpg (99KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments 03 New Speedometer - Zero Minus.jpg (98KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 04 Zero Adjustment.jpg (84KB - 275 downloads)
Attachments 05 New Speedometer - Zero Correct Setting.jpg (98KB - 271 downloads)
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catman
Posted 2016-02-27 9:47 PM (#505363 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Elite Veteran

Posts: 781
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Location: Montreal, Canada
Wow!!!
Thanks for the PDF. Great work as usual.

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Lancer Mike
Posted 2016-02-29 7:31 PM (#505510 - in reply to #505363)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Location: The Mile High City
Amazing and so detailed! Great work, Serge!
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sermey
Posted 2016-03-18 6:37 AM (#507199 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

MOPAR Radio 856-857 with Audio Input: Even if the old Mopar Radio works perfectly, today this device is going to make no sense when the radio stations disappear, except as an eye-catcher in the car. There are high-tech conversions offered for FM-reception. These people do a nice job, as the radio keeps its full mechanical functionality.

Meanwhile the DAB - Technology (Digital Audio Broadcast) is on the way and will soon replace the analog broadcasting systems (ABS), so as these modifications one day will become as well obsolete. To give the radio a “voice”, regardless of the source, an Audio Input is suggested.

The original loudspeaker had already been replaced by a high power, wide-band type (01). The big high efficient magnet was grinded for just not touch the housing of the radio (02). It was obvious to have this loudspeaker driven by a power amplifier for lower impedance, and producing a higher output than the radio.

I found a suitable Power Amplifier, direct operating up to 16VDC (03), with a cinch audio connection (04), that could be used for an Audio Input.

From the cleaned schematic of the Mopar Radio 856,857 (05), here the resized section of the volume control unit (06).

The Audio Input is done by “injecting” the sound source from earphone output of an external device (portable Radio, Cassette or CD-Player, SmartPhone), directly to the high end of the volume control A in red (07). This way the volume and the tone control of the radio is still remaining active, and the receiver operate as well. As the radio has a high impedance circuit, the audio input is decoupled by a serial resistor, minimum value 120k. The higher the value, the higher will be the attenuation of the applied input signal, but as well the lower the loading of the radio circuit. This adjustable Audio Input signal comes directly from the trimmer in the PowerAmp.

The output B shown in green, comes from the tapper of the Volume Control, and leads with another 120k directly to the input of the PowerAmp.

Means the inner connection of the input trimmer to the PowerCircuit has been previously cut.

Note: To avoid possible hum, the two resistors 120k have to be soldered directly to the the volume control in the radio. These two wires, leading to the PowerAmp-In, are separately shielded. The 12V supply comes switched from the Radio, ground from the VC.

The PowerAmp Unit has become a satellite of the radio (08). It is fixed inside the air deflector for direct access to the cinch input connector, and for easy adjustment of the audio sensitivity by the pre-set trimmer (09).While listening from audio input, the receiver is set to the end of the scale for no reception at all. Removing this system? Just cut all external cables and the radio will remain as it was before! But not forget to switch over the loudspeaker.

Now the original car radio, together with the new built-in loudspeaker and a HiFi source, sounds even better as in the good old times.  - SERGE -  

 

N.B. Separate the schematics in PDF.

 



Edited by sermey 2016-03-18 10:16 AM




(01 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg)



(02 Grinded Loudspeaker Magnet.jpg)



(03 KEMO Amplifier 12W M032S 25.jpg)



(04 PowerAmp Unit.jpg)



(05 Schematic Radio Mopar 856-857.jpg)



(06 Schematic Resized Section VC Unit.jpg)



(07 Section VC with Audio Input A-Output B.jpg)



(08 MOPAR Radio with PowerAmp Unit.jpg)



(09 View Mounted PowerAmp.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg (82KB - 272 downloads)
Attachments 02 Grinded Loudspeaker Magnet.jpg (90KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments 03 KEMO Amplifier 12W M032S 25.jpg (74KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 04 PowerAmp Unit.jpg (79KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 05 Schematic Radio Mopar 856-857.jpg (114KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 06 Schematic Resized Section VC Unit.jpg (72KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 07 Section VC with Audio Input A-Output B.jpg (87KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 08 MOPAR Radio with PowerAmp Unit.jpg (112KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 09 View Mounted PowerAmp.jpg (90KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments Schematic Radio Mopar 856-857.pdf (197KB - 239 downloads)
Attachments Schematic Radio Mopar Section Volume Control.pdf (103KB - 254 downloads)
Attachments Schematic Radio Mopar VC Input A-Output B.pdf (107KB - 244 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2016-04-06 9:14 AM (#508867 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1080
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Horn Ring Pad 1: Years ago I purchased at the Big Meet in Vaesteras a NOS Steering Horn Ring without Pad (01). Back then I didn’t know that there are two different horn rings. The other one with pad and small golden knight (02) have been available in pad colors correspondingly to the car interior (03) (04) (05).

These pads deforms and shrinks with time and are extreme rarely to find. From the used horn ring I purchased once, I could just use the small golden knight, temporarily mounted on the ashtray of my convertible.

Recently I found a never used, NOS Horn Ring with green pad (06). All was perfect, except the pad was shrinked till 10mm at the end (07), partially deformed, the foam mostly rotted, and the metal insert widely detached due to long storage (08). The pad metal inserts, usually rusty and broken, could be cleaned (09) and inserted on the horn ring (10). By removed pad (11), the fixing gaps in the ring becomes visible (12).