'57 New Yorker Coupe
Powerflite
Posted 2016-12-23 8:20 PM (#529650)
Subject: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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John & M'Lisa dropped by my place today and dropped off this little gem. It is a well optioned Los Angeles built car, but unfortunately missing it's motor and trans. So I am going to put a Cummins diesel into it with vertical stacks on either side of the doors and 4wd axles..... just kidding. I have a 392 hemi from a '57 New Yorker in the garage that seems the perfect fit for this car. The trans will likely come from my '58 Desoto, but I am going to have to finish replacing the drivetrain in my Desoto first before I can get to work on this car. It started raining almost as soon as John left so I didn't get a lot of time to play with it yet, but I did clear out a lot of the leaves and dirt from the engine bay.

One question I have is: I know that most of the lower level cars got battleship gray engine bays and trunks. But were the upper level cars painted the same way? I ask because I have never seen a 300C or 300D painted this way, as well as some other high end cars. So would this New Yorker be painted gray or body color?



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GregCon
Posted 2016-12-23 8:22 PM (#529651 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Lovely!
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springsweptwing
Posted 2016-12-23 9:08 PM (#529655 - in reply to #529651)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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This should be same colour as roof, when the car was painted, roof would have been first to be painted, then masked and body painted over the overspray from roof, paint worn or burnt over time leaving the colour of roof showing, but if you notice the fenders that are painted separate to body that is showing the red primer coat.



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Powerflite
Posted 2016-12-23 9:40 PM (#529658 - in reply to #529655)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks, my question is more about the engine bay and trunk. I guess I could do a little bit of investigation there once I get it cleaned up.
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springsweptwing
Posted 2016-12-23 10:18 PM (#529660 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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If you look at Greg's restoration pictures on the 300 he did, most of the panels are bolted to the car before paint, but this one looks to have had the front fenders painted before they are fitted? May be to do with the plant they are built? I had a all Black 58 Dodge custom royal , Canadian built but with Dodge front, that was grey in trunk and underside, yet the 58 Regal is Black in trunk and underside painted over the red oxide primer?
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springsweptwing
Posted 2016-12-23 10:24 PM (#529662 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nathan, that looks a fairly sound and unmessed with car, does it have any power windows or seat etc, there was a member from the UK interested in that one , looks like he lost out on that one?
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Powerflite
Posted 2016-12-24 2:21 AM (#529674 - in reply to #529662)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes, it looks like it has quite a few options. Power windows, seat, brakes & steering, washer, dual rear antennae, signal seeking radio, rear speaker, but no fender or hood ornaments.
Here is the body tag, although LA tags don't give out much info. It looks like I have one original black plate for the car. If I could find the other, I should be able to get it licensed with them.



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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2016-12-24 7:10 PM (#529714 - in reply to #529674)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I thought Ed would jump in on this underhood color subject.

Although I do not know this as fact for all marques, the 57 DeSotos
built in Detroit had grey inner fender panels, whereas those built in
L.A. had P&A Black. I would presume the Chryslers would be the same.
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Powerflite
Posted 2016-12-24 10:04 PM (#529715 - in reply to #529714)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Got a chance to look over it a bit today. The trunk lid and trunk are definitely gray color. The trunk lid is also definitely toast. Rusted out all along the edges on both the inside and outside. So I replaced it with a 300D lid and removed all the trim pieces on it so it could be disposed of. The 300D trunk lid is painted body color (black) on the inside, by the way, and has some indents along the front lower edge that are not present on the New Yorker lid. I also replaced the broken taillight lens & missing New Yorker emblem. This lens is cracked, but at least it looks better than it did.

I have this one license plate that was originally on the front, and it is the correct plate number on the title. So I need the other one. John, if you could check your place to see if you have another black DFF-403 plate somewhere, I would really appreciate it. I would really like to use these plates when I register it, but I need the other one in order to do it.

Edited by Powerflite 2016-12-24 10:15 PM




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springsweptwing
Posted 2016-12-26 10:53 AM (#529772 - in reply to #529715)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2016-12-25 3:04 AM

Got a chance to look over it a bit today. The trunk lid and trunk are definitely gray color. The trunk lid is also definitely toast. Rusted out all along the edges on both the inside and outside. So I replaced it with a 300D lid and removed all the trim pieces on it so it could be disposed of. The 300D trunk lid is painted body color (black) on the inside, by the way, and has some indents along the front lower edge that are not present on the New Yorker lid. I also replaced the broken taillight lens & missing New Yorker emblem. This lens is cracked, but at least it looks better than it did.

I have this one license plate that was originally on the front, and it is the correct plate number on the title. So I need the other one. John, if you could check your place to see if you have another black DFF-403 plate somewhere, I would really appreciate it. I would really like to use these plates when I register it, but I need the other one in order to do it.


Nathan, those indentations you are referring to seem to be the difference between a 57 and 58 trunk lid?
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Powerflite
Posted 2016-12-26 12:19 PM (#529776 - in reply to #529772)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes, I think all the '58 lids have them. They are present on my '58 Desoto lid too.



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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2016-12-26 10:50 PM (#529824 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nice find. My 57 NYer was built in LA also. The firewall was for sure painted the body color. I'm not sure about the inner fenders as mine have been repainted black.
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57burb
Posted 2017-01-09 11:41 AM (#530895 - in reply to #529824)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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This will give you an idea of how the Detroit-built NYer front clips were assembled.

Everywhere you see gray = factory Mist Gray paint

Everywhere you see brown = factory unpainted area

No wonder these cars were such rust buckets. I'm fortunate to have such a solid car. It was bought new in Oklahoma and spent some time in Texas.



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-09 11:57 AM (#530896 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yeah, I agree. The interiors have even less paint. That's why the roofs rust out so easily on these cars. But it looks like you are in a good position to change all that.
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miquelonbrad
Posted 2017-01-09 9:49 PM (#530964 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Danny, what is the story of the new frame crossmember and engine mounts? Maybe start a new thread on it?
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57burb
Posted 2017-01-09 10:31 PM (#530970 - in reply to #530964)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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They aren't new; they're just clean. It's getting a 392 again.
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billy
Posted 2017-01-10 12:03 PM (#531008 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I may be able to help you Nathan....I have the 4 dr sedan version...cloud white roof, jet black body, green interior, 392 Hemi, AC, Power windows, Powerseat,dual antennaes...mine is Detroit built, 1st 1/2 of 57 with the single headlights....
Nice ride Nathan.....
billy




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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-10 12:31 PM (#531010 - in reply to #531008)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Almost like twins! That must have been a popular non-color combo back then. I like it alot better with the stripe painted white, rather than black like mine. Really nice, clean New Yorker you have there. It would be great to get some detailed info from you as it arises.

What is your trim code for the green interior? I think my interior is black/white or maybe beige with trim code 026. But I have no idea what 026 should look like.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-01-10 12:35 PM
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billy
Posted 2017-01-11 12:25 PM (#531080 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I'll pull my build sheet at home and will let you know...
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billy
Posted 2017-01-12 11:49 AM (#531153 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Trim code 15 = Dark Green Starlite Faille & Med. Green Broadcloth........per Build sheet
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billy
Posted 2017-01-12 11:53 AM (#531155 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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All your outside molding looks in good shape...those are not very easy to come by these days....looks like a nice project....what color are your valve covers and the big arse air cleaner on your engine??? Mine both need to be re-painted..
Also i'm in the market for the spark plug covers that attach to the valve covers....if you hear of any being sold...
billy
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RUSTORICHES
Posted 2017-01-12 12:46 PM (#531159 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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I can come down to help you with the 57 Chrysler just to get out of this damm cold up here AH……LOL That 57 is a nice find for sure. Looks like you have some good projects underway there by looking at the photos provided. Good Luck
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-01-12 1:28 PM (#531165 - in reply to #531159)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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There seems to be some question on firewall color .... ?

Remember, the body shell was painted a single base color with two-toning
overlaid on that base. This was done off-site and delivered as such to the
assembly line to be built as ordered. It was on the assembly line that other
colored inner fenders and radiator supports came into play ... this is because
they were bolt-on parts, and situations varied as to what colors those were
painted .... different years, assembly plants, suppliers, etc.

But to the point, the firewall should always match the base body color of the
car, so a black car with white roof and sweep would have a black firewall. An
Autumn Rust car with charcoal roof and sweep would have an Autumn Rust
firewall. Were the latter car a 57 DeSoto, and built in Detroit, the inner fenders
and radiator support woulf be grey. If the same car were built in L.A. they'd be
P&A Black.

Clear as mud ?

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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-12 2:50 PM (#531169 - in reply to #531155)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Billy: All the molding is good except for the right lower door molding. I need to find a replacement for that one. This car has no motor, but the valve covers were originally silver and the air cleaner black. The spark plug covers are black too. Ebay is the best source for them and there is a company on there that reproduces them for $90, or you can get used ones too. When you get a chance, post up a picture of your interior on your thread. It would be good to see what it looks like.

Glen: Sure, come on over! Probably not a good time right now though. It has been non-stop rain here for the last 3 weeks or so. Pretty unusual for this place.

Doc: Yes, the firewall is obviously body color. The question was about the inner fenders. Being sold in LA, if the trunk is gray, would you think the inner fenders would be gray too or could it be black? There is almost no paint left on the inner fenders, but I can do some investigating once this rain stops so I can get some time to work on it. Although, yesterday, I did get time to remove the hood and weld it up at the hinge area so that I could open and close it without bending it... just before it started raining again.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-01-12 2:53 PM
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FINS!
Posted 2017-01-12 6:33 PM (#531189 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Wow, all the brown areas were unpainted?! That's crazy, it does explain why these rusted out so early! You have a great project here, these cars are gorgeous and tough to find. I've looked for one for years, they simply just aren't out there. Almost had me believing the Cummings diesel idea I've seen that done once or twice.....
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billy
Posted 2017-01-16 11:49 AM (#531478 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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As you all can see the interior needs some work,,,but that's this year's project....car is covered up in the garrage here in upstate NY...19 degrees outside...come on Spring....
billy



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LD3 Greg
Posted 2017-01-16 3:58 PM (#531489 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Nathan, when you remove the inner fenders from the fenders I think you will see that there was no paint on the inner ones. These cars were assembled with unpainted front sheet metal. The only paint that got there was after assembly and just what the spray guns could reach. All fasteners and those rubber dams were painted over.

Certainly not the way any of us would restore one!

Greg
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-01-16 9:20 PM (#531512 - in reply to #531169)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2017-01-13 11:50 AM
Doc: Yes, the firewall is obviously body color. The question was about the inner fenders. Being sold in LA, if the trunk is gray, would you think the inner fenders would be gray too or could it be black? There is almost no paint left on the inner fenders, but I can do some investigating once this rain stops so I can get some time to work on it. Although, yesterday, I did get time to remove the hood and weld it up at the hinge area so that I could open and close it without bending it... just before it started raining again. :(


===================================================

I still have the nose clip from my L.A.-built NY'er coupe. The inner fenders
and radiator support are P&A Black. This was a well-kept, 80,000 mile car
before some guy decided to build a drag car out of it, losing interest before
the car was beyond saving.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-01-16 10:14 PM (#531522 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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turn your Desoto into a ny'er this year... flip it back and forth

I have a "alternate" front end for my 300C... I have a spare 57 ny front clip. I guess I can tape over the 300C emblem on the quarters...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-18 1:43 AM (#531635 - in reply to #531522)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the interior pics Bill. I can see the original green color on parts of the fabric. These interiors were great looking, when new. Looks like your car has the same problem that mine does - power windows. It's gonna take quite a bit of work to get my windows to roll up and down. I got a little bit of time to work on the car today and managed to get the doors open. So I fixed the door handles on the inside and outside so they all operate now. I also tore off the deteriorated outer seat cover on the front seat top to reveal what's left of the original fabric. That's a pretty neat pattern & combo. I will really like it when it's done. The only paint left on the inner fenders & radiator frame is black. So it was probably P&A black like Doc says, or just overspray from the body paint. Either way, it looks like I am going to paint them black.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-01-18 1:51 AM




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billy
Posted 2017-01-18 11:57 AM (#531659 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite,
That is a pretty cool pattern on the seat...I see you have the same problem as my front seat,,,turning into saw dust....I'm hoping to work on interior this spring...believe it or not, all my power windows work...they don't all go back up from the drivers master switch, but they all go down from there...sometimes i have to climb over to the individual window and put it back up from there...there is a guy on this site who is 3D printing power window parts when you get that far......the power seat has issues but does groan and move....fun fun fun,,,always something to do with these cars...
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-23 12:37 PM (#532116 - in reply to #531659)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes Bill, the seat foam self destructs whenever you touch it. I just cleared out most of it to keep it from littering the floor.

I got a whole day on Saturday without rain so that I was able to clean up the floors. Looks like it needs a patch in just this left rear part where water has collected over the years. The trunk floor is about the same. The rear trunk extension looked amazingly good until I put a wire wheel to it and it started to develop holes. So that was a little disappointing, but somewhat expected. Generally I would repair the panel before painting it but it was about to get another 2-3 days of rain so I had to protect it right away after I cleared off all the surface rust.



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Chrispy
Posted 2017-01-23 3:08 PM (#532135 - in reply to #531659)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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billy - 2017-01-18 9:57 AM

Powerflite,
That is a pretty cool pattern on the seat...I see you have the same problem as my front seat,,,turning into saw dust....I'm hoping to work on interior this spring...believe it or not, all my power windows work...they don't all go back up from the drivers master switch, but they all go down from there...sometimes i have to climb over to the individual window and put it back up from there...there is a guy on this site who is 3D printing power window parts when you get that far......the power seat has issues but does groan and move....fun fun fun,,,always something to do with these cars...
billy


Have you pulled it out and cleaned/lubed everything? ancient grease will do that and add significantly to the load the motor/trans see in the seat assembly.
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billy
Posted 2017-01-25 11:59 AM (#532300 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Chrispy,
I have not dissected the power windows or power seat issues yet....all work to some extent....hopefully you are right and all it will need is a good cleaning and lube...thanks for the info...
billy
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-01-25 3:56 PM (#532324 - in reply to #531522)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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mikes2nd - 2017-01-17 7:14 PM

turn your Desoto into a ny'er this year... flip it back and forth

I have a "alternate" front end for my 300C... I have a spare 57 ny front clip. I guess I can tape over the 300C emblem on the quarters...


========================================

I think DeSoto SMOKES Chrysler for design in most cases
throughout the Forward Look years. As good as Chrysler might
have been, DeSoto was just that much better. It's why I am
"Doctor DeSoto" and not "Captain Chrysler" !
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billy
Posted 2017-01-26 11:49 AM (#532386 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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hey Doc,,,what are you smoking??? They're basically the same car aren't they????
billy
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-01-26 12:15 PM (#532391 - in reply to #532386)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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billy - 2017-01-26 11:49 AM hey Doc,,,what are you smoking??? They're basically the same car aren't they???? billy

them's fighting words!!!

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billy
Posted 2017-01-26 12:29 PM (#532395 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I thought i might get a rise out of somebody......
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-01-26 1:10 PM (#532399 - in reply to #532395)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Hehehehe ! .... close enough that the 300 Club guys told me
to use my NY'er coupe and Fireflite convertible as parts cars for
a 300 project !
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Viper Guy
Posted 2017-01-26 4:02 PM (#532414 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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DeSotos rule!

OK, I must clarify this - perhaps not the '61s but none of the '61s tripped my trigger in comparison to the '60s. Imperial would be the only exception in my opinion.


Edited by Viper Guy 2017-01-26 4:10 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-26 4:06 PM (#532415 - in reply to #532414)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I usually prefer the look of Chrysler over the Desoto. Chrysler is only beat by DeSoto in '58 and '59. The rest, Chrysler wins.
Favorite design:

'55: 1. Chrysler 300 & Imperial 2. DeSoto
'56: 1. Plymouth 2. Tossup 300B,I,D
'57: 1. Chrysler (any, except 300) 2. Tossup Ds,D,P
'58: 1. DeSoto 2. Chrysler New Yorker & Dodge Regal Lancer (except remove those bumper teeth!)
'59: 1. Dodge 2. Plymouth
'60: 1. Chrysler 2. Dodge Polara
'61: 1. Dodge 2. Chrysler

My Score: Chrysler 4 1/3, Dodge 3 2/3, Desoto 2 1/3, Plymouth 2 1/3, Imperial 5/6
All-time favorite cars: '60 Chrysler, '57 Chrysler, '58 Desoto, '60 Polara.... Even if I arranged it this way, Chrysler would still win.
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-01-29 1:30 AM (#532573 - in reply to #532415)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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In my early days of Forward Look cars, I had a 57 NY'er coupe and
my brother had a 60 Fireflite coupe. From Day One, the response he
got when he told people he had a DeSoto was 1000x more "deer-in-
the-headlights than saying I owned a Chrysler. THAT was the first bit
that tipped me towards being a DeSoto fan. When I found a few 57-
58 DeSotos, as much as I liked the NY'er (and I still find it a top shelf
FL design), the details like bumper-ported exhaust, the stacked tail lights
poking out of the chromed housings, the more exuberant sidetrim, and
the instrument cluster (don't care for those round pods on the Chrysler)
just sold me. I had to have a 57 Adventurer convertible ! But the being
stuck on go-fast and fancy wore off, and I came to like the slightly refined
look of the 58's better. The wedge was also a swaying factor. So, 58
Fireflite it was. There are a lot of kick-ass Forward Look cars, but the
58 Fireflite is the car for me.
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57desoto
Posted 2017-01-29 6:36 AM (#532575 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Sorry I'm late to this party, but for what it's worth, THIS PAGE (http://www.houstonmopars.org/specs/moparmotorpaint.jpg) says that a 1957 Chrysler should have inner fenders painted body color. It's a bit hard to read with all the "exceptions" and the phrasing sucks, PLUS I have some other issues with its accuracy. BUT, if you paint the inner fenders body color and anyone argues, at least you can point to this page to place the blame!
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2017-01-29 8:17 AM (#532578 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 1179
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

When I compare the 56 Chrysler and 56 De Soto, IMHO both are looking very attractive. But the dashboard of the 56 De Soto is ways more sportive and attractive to me than the Chrysler/Imperial - even though the Chrysler dashboard is looking very nice as well. I don't really know but I assume the  Chrysler/Imperial had a better base equipmemt than the De Soto.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-01-29 1:06 PM (#532597 - in reply to #532575)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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57desoto - 2017-01-30 3:36 AM

Sorry I'm late to this party, but for what it's worth, THIS PAGE (http://www.houstonmopars.org/specs/moparmotorpaint.jpg) says that a 1957 Chrysler should have inner fenders painted body color. It's a bit hard to read with all the "exceptions" and the phrasing sucks, PLUS I have some other issues with its accuracy. BUT, if you paint the inner fenders body color and anyone argues, at least you can point to this page to place the blame!


===============================

This may be true of Detroit-built cars, but L.A.-built cars got P&A Black.
I believe this was true for all makes that were built in L.A. including
DeSoto.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-02-20 8:24 PM (#534419 - in reply to #532116)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I took advantage of a rainy day and pounded out the big dent in the passenger inner fender, but I've got a dozen extra holes to weld in there as well. I also disassembled the engine bay and cleaned everything down. Getting ready to do the prep work for paint. I welded in the two large holes in the firewall that were made for the aftermarket A/C back when I was working on the floor. They installed them too low, near the passenger's feet so I'm not keeping them like that. I also washed the outside of the car so it isn't so filthy. I need to get to work on the motor now.



(Clean Firewall.jpg)



(Clean 57NY.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-02-20 8:59 PM (#534422 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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car is pretty clean now.
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Chrome58
Posted 2017-02-21 1:27 AM (#534431 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nice car and nice project.
Keep up the good work
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miquelonbrad
Posted 2017-02-22 12:42 AM (#534493 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Needs some Canadian rust...

Looking good! At least you are progressing faster than I am...
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billy
Posted 2017-02-22 11:57 AM (#534508 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks good...keep showing us pics....is that the oil filter access trap door I see on the passenger side??? Mine has similiar..
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-02-24 10:21 AM (#534626 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks everyone. Brad, I think I have my fill of Californian rust so importing the pure Canadian form will have to wait for another time.

Bill, I never considered that as an oil filter access panel, more as just another fender mount because they use the same thing on the left side. But I guess it could be used that way.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-02-26 12:50 AM (#534710 - in reply to #534626)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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On a whim, I decided to paint the roof since the original paint is all but gone and it is getting rusty up there. So I spent the day removing the trim and doing the repair work to the rear section. It was pretty rusty here because of a bad bondo job that allowed water to get underneath it. So I cut the section out, cleaned it all out, sprayed it down with a coat of epoxy primer and welded a patch into it. I learned the hard way when working on my Barracuda that whenever you do any grinding, cutting or welding, to always protect your glass with a damp cloth so that it doesn't get pitted from the hot sparks and molten balls. I got it all welded in, and half-way done welding up the crappy factory seam when I ran out of Argon gas. So I had to stop for the day. I am happy with the way it turned out. It shouldn't need much filler once I get the welds cut down.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-02-26 1:12 AM




(Roof Issues.jpg)



(Roof Protection.jpg)



(Roof Welded.jpg)



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Attachments Roof Welded.jpg (132KB - 52 downloads)
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big m
Posted 2017-02-27 11:33 AM (#534803 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nice job on that patch, Nathan!!
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-05 6:55 PM (#535221 - in reply to #534803)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Thanks John I am happy to be making more progress on it. I cleaned it all up and came out quite well. It required a little more hammer and dolly work afterward than I thought it would. Probably because of the previous dent that was there. Working so close to the drip rail requires a lot of patience in doing the clean up work too.



(Finished Sail Panel Metalwork.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-05 7:05 PM (#535222 - in reply to #535221)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
I discovered some new work after I removed the drip rail and sanded it down. Two more holes to patch up. Fortunately, these are relatively easy to deal with. I just had to undo the screws holding the stainless trim to the panel to pry it away from there and stick the copper plate between it to protect it. Then use the copper welding spoon to hold against the backside, and weld them up. That welding spoon was the best $10 I ever spent at HarborFrieight. Be sure to carefully grind smooth the backside well to be able to get the trim back on afterward.



(Drip Rail Rust.jpg)



(Fixed Drip Rail.jpg)



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Attachments Drip Rail Rust.jpg (115KB - 68 downloads)
Attachments Fixed Drip Rail.jpg (148KB - 49 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-05 7:24 PM (#535225 - in reply to #535222)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I also had time left over to sand down the entire roof. The old paint was severely cracked and was a real pain to remove. But I used a flapper wheel on an electric grinder and that seemed to work very well at cutting through it. Some places still have the undercoat on, but that is easier to remove and I will us a D/A sander on that to bring it down to bare metal. The orange tape worked pretty well at protecting the trim from the sander. In the future though, I think I would use black electrical tape instead. It would hold up better if you accidentally swipe it. Unfortunately, I found yet another pocket of rust that was completely hidden underneath the paint on the other side. I also discovered a small dent in the roof that needs to be addressed. Oh well, in the words of the great American poet, Larry the cable guy; I just need to "Git 'er done".

Edited by Powerflite 2017-03-05 7:29 PM




(Sanded Roof.jpg)



(Discovered More Fun.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-20 3:18 AM (#536281 - in reply to #535225)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
I got the metal repair on the roof done, painted it in primer, let it dry, and started wet sanding. I applied another coat of primer to fill small imperfections and will sand that once it dries. In the meantime, I welded in the extra holes on the right inner fender and cleaned it up pretty well. I was about to flatten this large dent in it until I realized that it was put there by the factory. Strange looking thing to be put there on purpose. Maybe it is there to provide extra clearance for the brake hose? There is another strange dent on the rear of the panel that doesn't look like it belongs there so I will check into it. I also still need to go over the small remaining dents from the large one that I took out in the center of the panel.

I decided to paint the inner fender mounting panels a gray color just to break up the monotony of an all-black engine compartment.



(Right Inner Fender.jpg)



(Inner Fender Panels.jpg)



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Attachments Right Inner Fender.jpg (240KB - 61 downloads)
Attachments Inner Fender Panels.jpg (231KB - 60 downloads)
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ToMopar
Posted 2017-03-20 3:58 AM (#536282 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nathan,

my right inner fender has the same "dent"
I have a 57 Fireflite,- so it must be the same part



(p510.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-20 2:57 PM (#536311 - in reply to #536282)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Thanks Tom. Do you know if this dent is from the factor too? I suspect that it isn't, but I don't want to take out something that is supposed to be there.



(RtInner Dent.jpg)



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Attachments RtInner Dent.jpg (154KB - 62 downloads)
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ToMopar
Posted 2017-03-21 7:29 AM (#536359 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Elite Veteran

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Hi Nathan

I wonder for the "antenna inspection hole",- yours is much bigger than mine. But I do not have this "dent" on firewall side.



Edited by ToMopar 2017-03-21 7:32 AM




(p513.jpg)



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Chrys 68
Posted 2017-03-21 7:46 AM (#536361 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Elite Veteran

Posts: 640
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Location: Malung, SWEDEN
Nathan! I see you also have something to bite into...
Good Luck!
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-21 12:08 PM (#536371 - in reply to #536361)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4537
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Location: So. California
Thanks Magnus & Tom Looks like I need to work on that dent. It is beyond my imagination how it could have got there. I assume that the larger access hole was for the optional power antenna module. I am surprised that the DeSoto doesn't have it; but I just checked my '58 DeSoto, and it doesn't have the large access panel either. Strange. Was the power antenna an option for a DeSoto?

One of the square holes is there to mount your fender brace. My panel has the nut for it still in place. But I wonder what the other hole was used for. Maybe to mount something for the antenna? It looks like they didn't bother to put the nut in place there on my panel.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-03-21 12:10 PM
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miquelonbrad
Posted 2017-03-28 1:12 AM (#536792 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada
The DeSoto had the power antenna option, but it was installed on the rear deck instead, for some reason...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-22 1:09 PM (#538603 - in reply to #536792)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Restored the original plates on the car.



(Restored Plates.jpg)



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Attachments Restored Plates.jpg (98KB - 55 downloads)
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RUSTORICHES
Posted 2017-04-22 9:10 PM (#538634 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 456
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Location: Alberta
This restoration seems to be going great, I can't believe you're out on the driveway working on your car that's almost unheard of up here in the Great White North but not entirely impossible " You Just Can't Do Much In Six Days" Of Summer Here"
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-23 11:41 AM (#538677 - in reply to #538634)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
It's definitely not ideal. I really wish I had the space to build a bigger garage to work on these. Because of the visibility on my front driveway, I cant just completely disassemble the car, I have to make it always look like a drive-able car. So I jack up the rear to level it out, always keep the front fenders on and remove them only temporarily. My cookie cutter garage isn't big enough to even fit this car in once they put the washer and dryer & water heater in there. And it gets crowded with all the tools, motor rebuild & equipment. But I will wheel it in with the back end sticking out to paint the firewall, when I am ready for that. Here, the weather is quite nice most of the time, but the sun is quite hot & really beats down on you. I'm getting too old to be out in the direct sun so much, so I will be paying to get a permanent or semi-permanent car-port installed - *if* the county will give me the permit to do it. If not, I will have to use some temporary structure to keep the sun off of me.



(Facade.jpg)



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RUSTORICHES
Posted 2017-04-23 1:04 PM (#538683 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


Extreme Veteran

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Location: Alberta
I hear you "the people in the hood" I own the residential lot next me also and that's were a have a couple cars hid away in plain site I bought black car covers for them "Out of site out of mind" No one really can tell if they're are drivable or not and the covers disguise them well.
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KcImperial
Posted 2017-04-23 4:01 PM (#538694 - in reply to #538677)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: Kansas City, KS
Powerflite - 2017-04-23 10:41 AM

It's definitely not ideal. I really wish I had the space to build a bigger garage to work on these. Because of the visibility on my front driveway, I cant just completely disassemble the car, I have to make it always look like a drive-able car. So I jack up the rear to level it out, always keep the front fenders on and remove them only temporarily. My cookie cutter garage isn't big enough to even fit this car in once they put the washer and dryer & water heater in there. And it gets crowded with all the tools, motor rebuild & equipment. But I will wheel it in with the back end sticking out to paint the firewall, when I am ready for that. Here, the weather is quite nice most of the time, but the sun is quite hot & really beats down on you. I'm getting too old to be out in the direct sun so much, so I will be paying to get a permanent or semi-permanent car-port installed - *if* the county will give me the permit to do it. If not, I will have to use some temporary structure to keep the sun off of me.

I took the wheeled base off of an office chair, threw an old wheel and tire on top (for counterweight) and then stuck a patio umbrella down the center hole. As long as the ground is reasonably flat and level, it makes an easily movable shade tree. It doesn't have the same coverage as a carport but it's cheap and doesn't need a permit. It's also quicker to put away than other temporary shade structures.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-30 11:55 AM (#539156 - in reply to #538694)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4537
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Sounds like a nice mobile solution. I am just hoping for something a little more permanent.

I was working in the garage yesterday when I heard a loud !BANG! I thought something had blown on my air compressor, but looked around and found this pathetic tire blown out. There was hardly even any weight on it. It is completely blown but doesn't look very flat because the car has no drivetrain in it. It just got some direct sunlight from the low evening sun and that is all it took to do this. Makes me reconsider trusting my life to Goodyear products. "Integrity", yeah right.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-04-30 11:59 AM




(BlowOut.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-04-30 12:06 PM (#539159 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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that's a retread isn't it? and probably 20 years old.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-30 12:18 PM (#539160 - in reply to #539159)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4537
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Location: So. California
No it isn't a retread, and it is the newest tire on the car. In fact, it is the newest tire on any of my non-drivers. It was made in 2002. Under the blown tread, I can stick my finger through the rubber. There is nothing else there. Junk. They should have labeled it Badyear. I sure hope they have got their act together since then...

Edited by Powerflite 2017-04-30 12:20 PM
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-04-30 4:19 PM (#539163 - in reply to #538603)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: Parts Unknown
Powerflite - 2017-04-23 10:09 AM

Restored the original plates on the car. :)


================================

Did you silk screen them ???
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Viper Guy
Posted 2017-04-30 4:37 PM (#539165 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I guess you can a bad tire from any manufacturer but one 15 years old is really not one to complain about. The tire manufacturers recommend replacing tires after 7 or 8 years even if not driven much due to deterioration. Yeah there are tires that run longer without problems but why take a chance when the cost is less than a loved one's life?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-30 5:25 PM (#539168 - in reply to #539165)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Doc, no, I paid someone else to do it. Happy to upload some of the work to other people I can trust.

Viper Guy, what you say is of course true, but it is also true that I don't want to trust my loved one's life to a sub-par tire, even if it is within the recommended use duration. The fact that it self-destructed so easily makes it difficult for me to trust the brand at all.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-04-30 9:09 PM (#539174 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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your complaining about a 2002 tire from California popping? seriously?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-01 1:22 AM (#539191 - in reply to #539174)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I'm seriously saying this tire is utter crap. Not that I care much, just that I won't buy them. That is all.
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KcImperial
Posted 2017-05-01 1:37 AM (#539192 - in reply to #539156)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I've had the same thing happen with a tire except I was under the car when it blew. I first thought the car dropped and I was dead.

The car had sat for about 8 years without moving. The tire was old and was weather checked but always held air. I put the car up on jack stands for a couple hours to work on the driveshaft when that tire suddenly blew out. My uneducated guess it that after holding a static position for so long that it couldn't handle pressure (or lack of) being changed. I'm sure an engineer could explain it better. It taught me not to trust old tires or tires that had sat in one position for extended periods.



(tire2.jpg)



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big m
Posted 2017-05-01 11:07 AM (#539216 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7458
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Newer radials all tend to do that once they expire. 20 year old nasty , bald, bias ply tires I'd trust far more than radials that are seven or more years old.

---John
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miquelonbrad
Posted 2017-05-01 8:50 PM (#539254 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I've had the same Firestone radial WWWs on my Cadillac for 15 years...and they still look like new. But it only goes about 2000 miles a year, and almost never sits outside...except for car shows...

But now that I have said that, one will blow this year......

Inner fenders look good. What kind of paint did you use on them?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-02 11:38 AM (#539286 - in reply to #539216)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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big m - 2017-05-01 8:07 AM
Newer radials all tend to do that once they expire. 20 year old nasty , bald, bias ply tires I'd trust far more than radials that are seven or more years old.
---John


Very true John. The bias plys seem to last a lot longer.

Inner fenders look good. What kind of paint did you use on them?


You must be referring to Tom's fender. His look great. Mine are still in the first coat of primer, but I did manage to get most of the dents out of it pretty well. I keep finding more of them though every time I look at it again.



(Rt Inner Fender.jpg)



(Core Support.jpg)



(Core Support.jpg)



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Attachments Rt Inner Fender.jpg (155KB - 55 downloads)
Attachments Core Support.jpg (254KB - 62 downloads)
Attachments Core Support.jpg (254KB - 62 downloads)
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2017-05-03 12:43 AM (#539345 - in reply to #539286)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2017-05-02 11:38 AM

You must be referring to Tom's fender. His look great. Mine are still in the first coat of primer, but I did manage to get most of the dents out of it pretty well. I keep finding more of them though
every time I look at it again.


I always thought "those " dents occurred at the factory. I assumed that they were a result of ongoing changes, you know, like shimming one side or altering something WITHOUT changing the original stamping die. If an alteration or shim to an existing die could "fix" an alignment problem the assembly line engineers would go for it! Any resultant distortion would hardly be noticed on the assembled car.

For that reason I never dollied them out! I learned a long time ago that if the original panel alignment of a given car was poor, then, me, as a restorer would have a very hard time to improve on it!!

I always had to try! I usually got it but it wasn't easy!

Greg
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ToMopar
Posted 2017-05-03 2:54 AM (#539346 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 694
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@ Nathan, the dent job looks good.

@ Greg, I agree, - you never know what they have done at the assembly line. Difficult to say if Nathans dents are original
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-03 10:21 AM (#539368 - in reply to #539346)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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That's weird, there was only one picture of my core support yesterday. Now there are two. I guess I shouldn't be too surprised. Mopar parts have been multiplying in my garage for quite a few years now!

Thanks Tom. It was harder to get it right than I thought it would be. Probably went over it 4 times before it looked & felt good in primer. Greg, You may be right about that particular dent shown in RtInner Fender picture, because I can't fathom how that would occur other than someone wedging the inner fender to a new location. But there were so many dents in this thing, including many that were inexcusable, that there had to be a couple of abusive previous owners involved. One of them (I already mostly fixed it before I removed the fender from the car) pushed the mid-section in by more than 3 inches. You don't get a dent like that from the factory. I got a serious workout fixing that one just whacking at it as hard as I could for 20mins until I was able to finally push it back into place. I had my son use a long 2x4 as a dolly on the other side because nothing else was long enough to work with it.

The front valance was no exception to this. It has a pretty major dent along it too. It's really hard to show a filthy dent in a picture, so I cleaned it off a little so it is a little more visible. It has a deep crease along it with a sharp dent at the end. I could fix it with a lot of work, but since I have a much better one from the '57 Windsor parts car, I will just use that one. I would rather it be painted in gloss, but I may just leave it as is with a matte finish since it looks to be pretty well done.



(Front Valence.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-09 10:12 PM (#539804 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Piece by piece..... This one was relatively easy. It only had 2 small dents in the sides and top.



(CrossBrace.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-09 10:16 PM (#539805 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got a nice workout this morning wet sanding the roof with 400 grit. To think that people pay for a membership to workout at a gym, when I would pay them to get a good workout on my driveway! Looks like I have a shallow high spot in the center. I will take a spoon and slap it down a bit before re-primering it. And then.....more wet sanding!

By the way, the black spot at the bottom right of the picture is black paint that I applied to test the compatability with the primer. The red oxide primer isn't compatible with the top coat so I will use this gray primer over the top of it to prevent any compatability issues. But that black paint is a lot harder to sand than the primer. I will have to get out my DA sander to work on that now.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-05-09 10:25 PM




(RoofSanding.jpg)



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FIN ME
Posted 2017-05-10 8:58 AM (#539815 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nice work, Powerflite.

You seem to have the hands of a welding surgeon!

Impressive job!:


Edited by FIN ME 2017-05-10 9:00 AM




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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-10 10:18 AM (#539817 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the flattery Rosy. Welding there wasn't actually the hard part. Cleaning up those welds was a lot harder and took a lot of patience.
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FIN ME
Posted 2017-05-10 10:23 AM (#539818 - in reply to #536282)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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ToMopar - 2017-03-20 3:58 AM

Nathan,

my right inner fender has the same "dent"
I have a 57 Fireflite,- so it must be the same part


My '57 Firesweep also had a dent of the right inner fender, which appeared to have been there through at least one repaint. We didn't notice the dent until the primer was applied, due to the wear and tear that existed on the surface of the inner fenders. I replaced it with an undented inner fender that I got from Big M.

These dented inner right fenders seem to have been contagious!

The engine and such all fit back in without any issues, and without having to re-dent the inner fenders.

Ah, the mysteries of our finned beasts...



.


Edited by FIN ME 2017-05-10 10:25 AM




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FIN ME
Posted 2017-05-10 10:48 AM (#539819 - in reply to #539817)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2017-05-10 10:18 AM

Thanks for the flattery Rosy. Welding there wasn't actually the hard part. Cleaning up those welds was a lot harder and took a lot of patience.


Patience and talent, you modest devil!

I'm impressed by this sort of attention to detail as I did try my hand at welding, polishing, and general body work/paint-prep years ago when I owned an old '67 Newport (argh...those concave surfaces! ) Difficult, but I sure did have fun, and the results were pretty good, I must admit...thankfully. (Wish I still had that car.)

I think you're right about the patience though. Pride in a job well done, especially when it concerns a labour of love, demands a lot of patience.

But it's so satisfying when the job is done, don't you think? I think (know) my shop thought that I was a bubble-off-plumb when I spent days Dremel-ing the donor car's rusted drip rails out from the delicate stainless drip rail trim that I just "had to have" installed on my '57 DeSoto. These drip rails had been pulled off of the donor car, albeit it carefully, but the rusted drip rails remained embedded into the backside channels of the stainless trim. The sparks from my Dremel-ing job did set my top on fire a couple of times a la "Blazing Blouses", but it was so worth it IMHO. I think that the shop was a tad surprised when I dragged the intact drip rails back for installation. Mind you, I think that the guy that possessed the cajones to use a polishing wheel on these drip rails was the real hero! Yikes, what a job.

Anyway, it's interesting reading about your car's progress and your dedication to what can seem at times to be an endless process!








Edited by FIN ME 2017-05-10 10:50 AM
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-05-10 11:45 AM (#539826 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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yeah I would say take the dent out its not factory
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-10 5:30 PM (#539842 - in reply to #539819)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Rosy, your blazing blouses story gave me a good laugh. I have set the frayed bottoms of my pants & shirt sleeves on fire a couple of times and ground away part of my shoe with the wire wheel. I don't think that most people are familiar with the notion that many '50's Mopar parts are pretty darn scarce. Good for you for saving that drip rail molding.

But you are right, that this job does seem endless at times. A never-ending array of more parts to clean and restore. And the more it becomes disassembled, the higher the danger that I may end up losing parts, which is even worse. But even putting together my '58 Dodge that I didn't even paint was very satisfying to be able to drive a neat old Dodge down the road after sitting for 30+ years. The reward is definitely worth the trouble, no matter what level of restore you can afford to put into it.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-16 11:01 AM (#540143 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I received a new power window switch from Ebay yesterday. I was grateful to be able to purchase this since my original switch was missing. Fortunately, I did find the bezel for it though. I had to bend the tabs of the bezel slightly because it was putting too much stress on the plastic housing of the switch and was preventing it from working properly. It looks like this metal clip on the center ground pin is preventing the white plastic wire connector from seating up against the switch. Should I chamfer that hole out so that it will seat better? That area is particularly weak and I don't wish to weaken it further, but it needs to make good contact regardless.

I only have 2 of the steel clips that hold the bezel to the door panel Does anyone know where I can get more of them?

Edited by Powerflite 2017-05-16 11:03 AM




(Master Switch Bottom.jpg)



(Master Switch.jpg)



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GregCon
Posted 2017-05-18 6:17 PM (#540356 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Often those inner fender dents are the result of a 'mechanic' using a pry bar or hammer to provide more clearance when he's plying his trade under the hood.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-05-30 11:05 AM (#541197 - in reply to #540356)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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A lot of them are very likely caused by that Greg. I think many of them also occurred when the motor was not so gracefully removed. Over the 3-day weekend, I got all the engine bay panels ready and waiting for the final wet sanding and paint. I am going to attempt to paint them all at the same time when I paint the firewall since they are all the same color. But the firewall still needs quite a bit of work before it can be painted. I also cleaned up the frame and got that painted up. I didn't paint all of the control arms, but I will do those as they come off when the front end gets rebuilt. I think the frame looks a lot better in a semi-gloss than a full gloss so that's what I used. Now I need to hurry up and get those fenders back on before anyone notices.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-05-30 11:10 AM




(Waiting For Paint.jpg)



(Painted Frame.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-06-04 6:54 PM (#541520 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Just for fun, I painted the side stripes white yesterday. I picked up a replacement lower door trim piece from a NY wagon which is longer. But, I need to figure out how to cut it down shorter to use as a replacement for this door.

Now I am working on sanding the firewall to get it ready for paint. I had to remove the paint completely in a couple of spots because the factory had spilled liquid sealer down the entire firewall. Looked too messy to leave it like that and it was too difficult to remove without destroying the underlying paint. Also sanded out a couple of large paint drips...

Edited by Powerflite 2017-06-04 6:56 PM




(NY Stripes.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-06-11 2:16 AM (#541924 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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This rust hole in the cowl didn't look easy to fix, but it wasn't too bad. The panels aren't painted in between so they rust pretty readily between there. I pried the edge of the panel up all along it and used a small screw driver to scrape out any rust divots in there. I also chiseled out any rust lumps as well. After removing the cowl drip shield, I could get a copper spoon up in behind it and get the hole welded up. After I get the weld cleaned up to my satisfaction, I will spray a rust converter all inside there and paint in between there as well. Then use a hammer to snug it back down to the bottom panel, where it is supposed to be. This should prevent any small amount of rust that might remain between there from cankering and getting worse.

I decided to remove the cowl tag when one edge of it started to crumble after hitting it with a wire brush. I was able to get a grip on one of the one-way screws with a pair of vice grips, but the other one required welding to it first. Then it broke and I had to weld a blob onto the remainder to get it out. I was surprised to find 2 extra holes underneath it, put there by the factory. Why are they there?? These would leak water directly into the ****pit! I didn't like that so I welded them up shut.



(Cowl & Tag.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-06-15 11:31 AM (#542182 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Cleaned up the cowl vent drip shield. It was painted black by the factory and the original paint was still on the underside, but it had no primer under it and the topside was either non-existent or worn off. Hopefully the red oxide primer and new paint will keep it in good shape for many years.



(Cowl Vent Shield.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-06-19 10:24 AM (#542452 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I didn't get a lot of time to work on the car this weekend, but I did manage to get the holes filled in and cleaned up. This area still needs more work though. I am going to strip the paint entirely from the top side because of the non-uniformity and repair work that I need to do here.



(Cowl Repair.jpg)



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big m
Posted 2017-06-19 11:43 AM (#542457 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Any progress is good progress.

Looking good, Nathan!

---John
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-06-20 2:39 PM (#542520 - in reply to #542457)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I agree John I seem to make more progress in the cool morning hours before going to work than I do in the entire day in this terrible heat!
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-06-26 11:05 AM (#542887 - in reply to #542520)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I finished cleaning and repairing the cowl seam this weekend. I then sprayed rust converter inside there and put red oxide primer/sealer on top of that. I will then paint it black in there just to color match so you don't see the red under the seam. After I hammer the seam back down, I will probably remove most of the paint from that area to start with a fresh coat of primer. I REALLY need new windshield rubber! When is Steele Rubber going to get on the ball to make us something? That is the biggest disappointment working with these cars, is the lack of good rubber. The 2 piece things are too tight and not a great solution anyway.



(Cowl Seam Cleaned Up.jpg)



(Cowl Seam Primered.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-02 2:28 AM (#543337 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am thinking of using these hubcaps on the car with Diamondback whitewall radials.



(NYHubcaps.jpg)



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KcImperial
Posted 2017-07-02 8:51 AM (#543351 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Those 1966 Chrysler hubcaps are so close in design to the 1959 Imperial hubcaps. I think they will look great on your New Yorker.
Nice touch with the New Yorker crest in the center.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-02 10:52 AM (#543359 - in reply to #543351)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks. I see ads for '59 Imperial hubcaps that are 15". Did they use 15" wheels on the '59 Imperial?
My second choice for 15" hubcaps would be the '55 New Yorker cap. The '56 is too smooth for my taste.



(55NY Hubcap.jpg)



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KcImperial
Posted 2017-07-02 2:44 PM (#543373 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The best I understand is that a few early production 59's had 14 inch wheel but the majority had 15 inch.
That '55 cap looks nice. I've thought about using '56 Imperial hubcaps on some of my 58's that have disc brakes. You're right about them looking too smooth though.
That's why I like that '66 cap. It is basically a '59 Imperial cap without that heavy (gaudy) gear toothed inner ring.
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Doctor DeSoto
Posted 2017-07-02 3:18 PM (#543374 - in reply to #543359)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Why not use stock 57 NY'er caps ? They are great looking !
57-59 300 caps are great too, as are 57-58 Imperial ? Are you
trying to get 15" ??? That is the down side of the aforementioned.

I tend to see the more upscale cars as looking silly if they are
modified to have "sportier" updates. It works better on Plymouths
and Dodges, but not so much with DeSotos and Chryslers. 57
NY'er just about tops the list of the finest Forward Look design
ever conjured up. Hard to change anything and have it look better.

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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-02 3:55 PM (#543377 - in reply to #543374)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I completely agree with you Doc. I love the original caps and would prefer to use them, but I can't stand 14 inch wheels. And 14 inch isn't compatible with the disc brakes I want to use. So I am looking for the next best thing.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-07-02 10:44 PM (#543395 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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I got some originals that I don't need anymore. They are 99% flawless.  They are I think one of the top 3 designs for FW cars.

Definately better than the 58-59 ones.   I dont like the reverse dog dish style of imperial/300's 

 



Edited by mikes2nd 2017-07-02 10:54 PM




(57YorkerHubCap.jpg)



(otherhubcap.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-03 3:15 AM (#543412 - in reply to #543395)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks. If I can figure out how to reliably use 14" caps on 15" wheels without spending a fortune, I will hit you up for them.

I wasted most of my day on Saturday extracting this cowl piece from my Windsor Parts car. It looked pretty good when I started, but by the time I got it out and cleaned out the rubber stuff in it, this is how it ended up. This parts car was the most rust-free car I have seen, and yet this rusts from the inside-out because of that rubber stuff they put in there on bare metal. Just enhances the rust process. So I will have to patch up my cowl with clean metal instead.

This hand-held sand blaster from Harbor Freight has come in handy to clean out the cowl drains & other pockets that I can't reach with sand paper. If you use a fine screen filter, you can sweep up the sand afterward and re-use it.



(CowlLipQuality.jpg)



(Blaster.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-23 10:10 AM (#544663 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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After taking a wire wheel to the inside lip of the cowl, it revealed quite a bit of rust. I was hoping to fix it with the cowl from my parts car, but that was a dead end so I formed a piece of metal to the proper shape and patched it in. It is mostly done now so I can move on to painting everything and replacing the dash pad.



(Cowl Rust.jpg)



(Cowl Rust Repair.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-07-23 11:15 PM (#544702 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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I think I will be doing something similar everything looks good on the outside but once you get in there I think all these cars are gonners in that area.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-30 12:17 PM (#545167 - in reply to #544702)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes, unfortunately so. I am a little afraid to look at the cowl on my DeSoto.

I got the firewall sealed. I'm looking forward to getting this thing painted and put back together. The roof is actually white, but it is so filthy now that it looks gray.



(Firewall Sealed.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-10 12:27 PM (#548098 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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No more 14" wheels for this car. I didn't buy gold iridite calipers for the car, the rebuilds just came that way. Still have to bend up all the lines.



(NYDiscs.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-13 9:01 AM (#548270 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I really like the way this hubcap looks on here. I whitewashed the old whitewall tire using photoshop. Now I just need 4 good New Yorker emblems for all of them.



(57NY15inWheels.jpg)



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big m
Posted 2017-09-13 11:21 AM (#548278 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I like the look of those caps too, Nathan.

You've come a long way on the car so far!

---John
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KcImperial
Posted 2017-09-13 9:07 PM (#548313 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Hubcaps look great. '66 300, right? They always throw me off for a second because they are so close to the '59 Imperial in design
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-13 11:01 PM (#548324 - in reply to #548313)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks John, it's progressing slower than I expected it to, but moving right along now. Almost ready to paint the engine bay.

Yes, Don, '66 Chrysler 15" disc brake hubcaps that are similar to the '59 Imperial and later 300 cars, only I have replaced the centers with '56-'57 New Yorker emblems.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-20 4:48 PM (#548813 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I purchased a set of Scat 440 H-beam rods to couple to my 440 rod/392 hemi pistons that should give me a nice 11:1 compression with the aluminum heads. But it took me what seemed like forever to find a decent machine shop to narrow the big end width by .016" and change the bushings. The 440 rods came with new .990" bushings and I need .984". I thought about honing the pistons to .990, but pretty much everyone advised me against doing that; so I just had the bushings in the rods changed. I ended up using L&B ConRod Service in Anaheim. I probably should have guessed that I would need to go to the happiest place on earth to get it done. Now I need to gather everything up and get it re-balanced to the new weight. Then I should be ready to start putting the motor back together.

After measuring everything up, I found out the previous offset bushed 426 hemi rod, big ends were machined to the wrong size at .984" width. Stock 392 big end width is at .994". I am thinking that a .01" extra gap between the rods would have caused a drop in oil pressure and probably would have prematurely destroyed the rod bearings if they got any side play on them. Not good. The condition of the old bearings in the motor seem to confirm this as they looked pretty beat up with very little miles on them. I don't know why they did that, but that issue, their 30% excess weight, and the higher compression (when used with smaller chamber aluminum heads) is why I didn't end up just using the 426 rods that were in the motor.



(440RodsDone.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-22 11:51 AM (#548949 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I bought an NOS radio foot switch for the car. I checked and it does have the port for it on the back of my radio. Yay! I don't see any kind of locating area on the floorpan though. They must have just screwed it into wherever it looked good.



(57NYRadio Foot Switch.jpg)



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KcImperial
Posted 2017-09-22 1:17 PM (#548958 - in reply to #548949)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Here's a couple pics from two of my Imperials if it helps. (I don't know how different it will be for a New Yorker)
They both align horizontally above the indention in the floor pan.
Vertically, they are a little different compared to each other.
This switch does not get a cut out in the carpet like the dimmer so I doubt the exact placement would very noticeable.
I would worry more about placing it so it's operation won't interfere with the dimmer or the brake pedal.



(58ImperialFootSwitch1.jpg)



(58ImperialFootSwitch2.jpg)



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KcImperial
Posted 2017-09-22 1:19 PM (#548959 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I think I got horizontal and vertical backwards in that message. I have problems with left and right too...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-22 1:51 PM (#548967 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The pictures help a lot, thanks! Now I don't have to guess too much.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-09-23 10:01 PM (#549032 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I spent the day wet sanding all my inner panels & '56 air cleaner (for my Plymouth) today. Then I gave a shot at using a new HVLP gun to spray a single stage urethane on them. I really like that gun! Not nearly as much overspray and a lot more control. I was able to dial it down enough to essentially eliminate the possibility of making any runs. I am super pleased with the results. It looks like my rag that I wiped the radiator support with left a couple of lint hairs on it, but other than that, the rest of it looks awesome.



(Inner Fenders Painted.jpg)



(Inner Fenders Painted2.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-29 12:12 AM (#551252 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I received my dash pad from RD Autoline and it looks really nice. They even painted it the correct slivery brownish color for me for a little extra cost. I highly recommend that you have them color it because it came out far better than I could ever make it. This is gonna make the rest of my dash look bad but that's a good thing. The old pad was quite disgusting.



(57NYDashPad.jpg)



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ToMopar
Posted 2017-10-29 7:07 AM (#551260 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes Nathan,

be careful with cutting the holes for speaker and vents.
To install the pushbuttons housing into the dash is also a challange, but its possible.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-10-29 7:54 PM (#551300 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the warning Tom. I am planning on installing it first, then cutting with an x-acto knife based on where it sits.
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DejaVu
Posted 2017-11-03 1:36 AM (#551533 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Posts: 10

Nathan, I'm loving this documentary, very educational. Newbie question - were the dash pads on these New Yorkers always colored in the trim that was selected or were they sometimes just black. Were there any rules to the color of the dash pad vinyl?
Keep up the good work!
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-03 2:39 AM (#551534 - in reply to #551533)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am no expert on it, but I do know that it depends mainly on the trim code. Both of my Windsors with a red or copper interior had black dash pads. But I believe that blue or green interiors on Windsors received blue or green dash pads. I say believe, because I didn't really pay much attention when I saw them in person. New Yorkers had a much wider array of different color schemes available. You can see that my black car has a brown pad, and there were multiple color schemes that my car could have came with. Some of those color schemes may have used a black dash pad. The dash pad color does usually match the package tray color & the lower door panel color though.
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Windsor59
Posted 2017-11-03 6:56 AM (#551535 - in reply to #551534)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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So nice dash pad and color
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-04 3:05 AM (#551579 - in reply to #551535)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I agree Joakim, RD Autoline do great work, but I think it will look even better once it is on the car

I got ahead of myself a little bit. I was primering the A-pillars when I realized that I still needed to weld in these trim holes. They have elongated & rusted beyond the ability to hold any trim. It would really suck to figure this out after I got it painted.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-04 3:09 AM




(Enlarged Hole.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-04 1:23 PM (#551605 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got the rotating assembly balanced. It required some mallory weight in 2 places. That stuff is expensive, I think the material alone was $180 + installation. The balance cost me about $400, but it is a lot better than the weights that were welded to it previously.



(CrankBalance.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-04 10:46 PM (#551653 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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that sounds like double the price...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-05 1:19 AM (#551657 - in reply to #551653)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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More than double. Without the extra weight, the balance job was supposed to cost around $150.

The driver's door had a big slab of bondo coming off so I dug through it and found this. Not fun. This would take me quite a while to remove all the bondo and then straighten it using a long metal straight edge as a guide. That's more work than I wanted to do on it so I decided to swap the door with a nice one from a 300D instead. Much easier, but everything must be swapped around on it and I am still working on that. I am going to test and get the electric window motor working before I put it back together. There was some thick bondo on the front end of the rocker too, but fortunately, no rust under there. I should be able to straighten that dent pretty easily.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-05 1:37 AM




(DoorBondo.jpg)



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springsweptwing
Posted 2017-11-06 10:10 AM (#551723 - in reply to #551579)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2017-11-04 8:05 AM

I agree Joakim, RD Autoline do great work, but I think it will look even better once it is on the car

I got ahead of myself a little bit. I was primering the A-pillars when I realized that I still needed to weld in these trim holes. They have elongated & rusted beyond the ability to hold any trim. It would really suck to figure this out after I got it painted. :wince:


Nathan, you will be better cutting a piece to replace the holes or brazing them up, as you will need to drill new holes for you're trim and not weld will be a pain to drill through?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-06 8:01 PM (#551757 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Once you add brass, you can never go back to welding. I avoid it as much as possible. It won't be difficult to drill through because I clean the weld up on both sides afterward so it is just as thin as the original metal, but it will be 2 layers thick instead of just one layer so it should be stronger than before.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-07 7:03 PM (#551816 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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It was such a nice day today that I took the day off work and sprayed the firewall and other parts on the car. I had just spent quite a while aligning the new door when I decided to take it back off so I could paint the door jamb as well. But I couldn't go past the rocker because it has a couple of mysterious holes on the top of it that need to be welded up first. I will use those holes to straighten the front of the rocker some other day. I ended up with 1 run in it just above the blower motor. I may fix that later or I may just leave it. I really expected to have a run in the lower complicated structure that you have to paint through, but I painted that part without any trouble. The firewall took a little more than a pint of paint to do.



(57NY Firewall Painted.jpg)



(57NY Door Jamb.jpg)



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Ev's62Chrysler
Posted 2017-11-07 8:27 PM (#551818 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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French Connection!
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-07 8:27 PM (#551819 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Did someone straighten the rocker before or rust proof it? That's not right

 

hide your drugs there?



Edited by mikes2nd 2017-11-07 8:29 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-07 8:42 PM (#551821 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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That thought did cross my mind, although I thought of jewels instead. I seriously doubt it was put there for working on the rockers, there is still a pretty serious dent right under the front hole and the guy just filled it with a big blob of bondo.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-07 8:45 PM
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big m
Posted 2017-11-09 12:43 PM (#551915 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nathan,
Those holes were a common method for body shops to remove scrapes and crushed rocker panels from curb damage back in the day. I've seen the very same thing on a large number of cars.

---John
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57burb
Posted 2017-11-09 4:13 PM (#551927 - in reply to #551915)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Exactly. That's the only way you can push a dent back out of a closed-up rocker...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-09 4:31 PM (#551931 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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It makes sense except that there is a lot of damage to the rocker right under the hole that no one even attempted to fix. Instead they just filled it with a big blob of bondo. Maybe they changed their mind about fixing it after they cut the access holes. I haven't found any rocker damage under the rear hole, but I didn't look very hard yet.

I was happy to find out that the power window on the driver's side works great without having to do anything to it. I applied power to it this morning and was able to roll it up and down with ease. It's nice when things already work without rebuilding them. The vent window frame, on the other hand, is broken in 4 places and held together with little screws to keep it from falling apart so I am looking for a replacement for it.
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soiouz
Posted 2017-11-10 8:02 AM (#551970 - in reply to #551931)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Powerflite - 2017-11-09 4:31 PM

It makes sense except that there is a lot of damage to the rocker right under the hole that no one even attempted to fix. Instead they just filled it with a big blob of bondo. Maybe they changed their mind about fixing it after they cut the access holes. I haven't found any rocker damage under the rear hole, but I didn't look very hard yet.




With our lovely cars being so old, now, I think it might be possible to think that the holes were made after some years of use of the cars and the rockers fixed, but the rockers got banged up again in the next few decades and that is the damage you see now.

I know on at least of my previous cars I found traces of very old repair work, then traces of later repairs in the same areas, and the car still needed work in that same place. These things have survived 60 years, after all.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-14 11:09 AM (#552222 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Good point David, we have no idea about the time-frame at this point.

Here is a little engine bling. I straightened, cleaned & painted the valve covers for the car. The air cleaner is next, but it needs quite a bit of straightening first. This car is getting the dual quad dealer option. I don't know if they would have painted the valve covers gold with a dealer installed dual quad, but I am going to regardless because it will match the air cleaners and look fabulous. Anyone have a single air cleaner they would like to sell and put to good use here?

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-14 11:14 AM




(VCovers Cleaner.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2017-11-14 4:11 PM (#552236 - in reply to #552222)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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So you are going for the 300C engine bay look?



And not this?



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-11-14 4:13 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-14 5:03 PM (#552238 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Basically yes. The dual quad was actually an option for the New Yorker so it won't be outside what could be expected to be found under the hood on it in 1957. But I will have a lot of light weight parts made from aluminum like the heads & intake that will make the car lighter than stock and it should create more power. I haven't yet decided if I will paint the aluminum parts silver or not. But I probably won't unless it begins to look too gaudy. A stock looking water cross-over is going to be the hard part. I am going to have to cobble that one together somehow.
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billy
Posted 2017-11-16 12:16 PM (#552403 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am so jealous of all the progress you've made since you 1st posted....looking great...Mine is under the cover taking her winter nap...New york winters suck...
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-16 1:48 PM (#552410 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Billy. It doesn't seem like it is going very fast because it is much slower than I want it to be. But the winters here really are nice for this stuff. I tried painting the booster with a hue of red and green like what Eastwood offers. It worked, but I think my gold paint is a little too colorful. It doesn't look too bad though so I will leave it as is. I was surprised to find the heater box came out with a dark brown hue instead of gray like I usually see. It even looked that way with just water on it. Weird, but that's the way it is. I am thinking that I would prefer this to be in a matte finish though, not glossy like I have it. So I am going to find some matte clear and try that on it instead.



(Booster HeaterBox.jpg)



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ToMopar
Posted 2017-11-17 2:46 AM (#552497 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nathan,

for the heater box I sand down all the old paint, and use a matte clear coat.



(1494f.jpg)



(1494d.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-20 11:14 AM (#552762 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Tom. I ended up having to strip all the clear back off because the matte clear wasn't compatible with the gloss clear underneath. That was a mess because stripping new paint just makes a bunch of goo. But I got it done and it looks much better now. I'm working on mounting it & the brakes to the firewall now.

I also restored the hi-note horn. The driver for it was junk so I purchased a new one for it. But the bell & bracket on the new one wasn't the same design and went in the opposite direction from the old one. So I had to restore the old stuff and put everything on the new driver. Now it looks and works really well. Fortunately, the low-note still works well so I can just clean it up and use it. That one's next.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-20 6:03 PM




(57NY Horns.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-20 12:20 PM (#552770 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am thinking of using these marine hemi wire covers. They have a lot more room at the back of them so that you can fit larger size wires into them without squeezing them against the wire covers. I'm not sure how different they will look compared to the auto versions.



(Marine Wire Cover.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-24 5:39 PM (#553057 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I made some progress with the extra time off. I got most of the firewall put back together except the accelerator pedal linkage. I made a gasket for the backside of the heater core from 3/16" rubber. and used the white firewall sealer goo stuff to finish it off. I wish that stuff was a different color now. I didn't think about that before I put it up there, but it is OK, just that it is very visible now against the black. But too late to change it. The blower motor housing is formed at a weird angle for some reason so that I ended up having to use 2 layers of sealer to get it to fill the gap - even with the stock rubber gasket that comes with the unit. Weird that it fits so poorly to the firewall. Makes me wonder if it was made for something else, but both my '57 Chrysler units are formed the same so I don't know what to think.

I installed the remote master cylinder with the remote reservoir on the firewall. It fits really nice there. I was originally going to anodize the reservoir black, but I have too much black in here so having something a little different is good. The master is setup for disc/disc so I have a 10lb residual pressure valve in the rear line under the steering box. It's really nice to get that inner fender out of my way and on the car again. Hopefully, I can spend tonight putting the motor back together. Any suggestions for the best way to get the brake switch wires back into the engine compartment? I might be able to squeeze them past the main wire feed....

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-24 5:41 PM




(57NY Firewall Coming Along.jpg)



(57NY Firewall Closer.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-24 10:05 PM (#553077 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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which reservoir and master cylinder did you use?

It looks good with the old one. I may use my old one now.

You used the rope sealant(clay like stuff around the heater box)?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-24 10:37 PM (#553078 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The remote master cylinder comes from Ebay here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/remote-fill-master-cylinder-street-rod-rat-...

Unfortunately, the reservoir that comes with it is just a little too wide to fit well. It will rub the bellows and hit the hood spring if you try to use it, but it might work with manual brakes. But the aluminum reservoir from Classic Performance Products fits much better there, and looks better. Unfortunately, it isn't cheap though, and they recently raised the price on it. The part number is RR2 and you can get it through summitracing.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-RR2

They changed the lid design to look a little better than what is shown in the picture.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-24 10:40 PM




(Remote Master.jpg)



(RR2 Reservoir.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-25 12:41 AM (#553085 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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hmm I was thinking hydro boost brake master cylinder.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-29 12:04 PM (#553380 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I modified the voltage regulator to work with an alternator and re-painted the lid. I basically just use it as a bus bar connection to keep the wiring and inner fender looking stock. The diagonal connections need to be tied together for the alternator so I do that within the regulator housing using a remnant of the original wires. I accidentally cut the wire a little too short out of the coil so I had to splice another piece onto it. You also need to cut out the resistors that tie the different connections together underneath the regulator housing. I will be using one of Rotton Lennard's stealth alternators that look like a generator.



Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-29 12:07 PM




(Modified VReg.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-07 1:04 AM (#553840 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got most of the bottom end of the motor put together. The new rods look a lot better in there than those massive 426 hemi rods & welded plates on the crank. I almost forgot to include the bushing underneath the rear main cap for the oil pump - mine was missing of course so I had to pull one from another motor until I can purchase a replacement. But good thing I reviewed the assembly first to catch that. I am going to try to use the hotheads windage tray. It wouldn't clear the 426 hemi rods before, but I am hoping that it will clear these new Scat rods. I'll find out soon enough. I hope to get the heads on by the end of the week.



(392w-440Rods.jpg)



(392 Windage.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 1:32 PM (#554167 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I went shopping at the mall and bought these new oil pressure hoses. I decided to purchase enough for all my vehicles. They look to be very well made. I believe the one that's different is for the '58 Dodge or maybe the DeSoto, I'm not sure yet.

http://www.moparmall.com/1957-1958-1959-MoPar-Oil-Gauge-Hose-p/mv-6...

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-12 1:34 PM




(Oil Pressure Hoses.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 1:47 PM (#554168 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I also got tired of doing a lot of cleanup on a bunch of misc. parts so I gathered them up and had them sandblasted. The exhaust manifolds were part of that bunch. After sandblasting, I painted them with Eastwood's exhaust manifold high-heat paint. Hopefully it lives up to it's reputation for staying on there. First, I tried brushing it on with a sponge brush, but that failed because the sponge just started coming apart very quickly due to a chemical reaction. So I finished them off with a regular bristle brush.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-12 11:19 PM




(Eastwoods Exhaust Paint.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2017-12-12 2:52 PM (#554170 - in reply to #554168)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks good Nathan.

Aren't 1533 377 exhaust manifolds for the LC3-300, i.e. 300D?



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-12-12 3:07 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 4:58 PM (#554181 - in reply to #554170)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Dave. Not quite. Same casting number, but the 300D manifolds had a clearanced section on them like in this picture. The manifolds I have were used in the large Dodge trucks with Chrysler hemi motors.



(300DManifolds.JPG)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-13 1:19 PM (#554224 - in reply to #554181)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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You may need to cleave off a hunk of those manifolds to fit.

I can tell you with some experience that even with the clearance, things get really tight really fast with the hi-po 300D manifolds in a '57-58 chassis.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-13 1:34 PM (#554226 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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When I mocked it up in my '58, it didn't look that bad. The '57 box is bigger in some places and smaller in others so it may be different, but does this look like what you experienced?



(Truck Exhaust & BrakeMC.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-13 4:32 PM (#554247 - in reply to #554226)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I want to say my manifolds were somehow "higher" up the head than that (closer to the valve cover) and that's where it got tight. Your manifold seems way down there in the pic.

Also, your steering box is VERY different design than the ones that are in both of my '57 NYers. My box is a much larger casting than what you show there (see pic).

The space between my valve cover and master cylinder is pretty close to what you have though - just about none!

The other area of concern was the pass-side upper control arm clearance to the manifold. Although on mine, it is pretty far away. About an inch.

I just looked in all my mock up photos and I don't have anything that shows this clearance clearly on both sides. I'll be able to get some pictures for you when I get the engine back in the car.



(20170315_120548.jpg)



(20170315_120549.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-13 7:23 PM (#554269 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Danny. That relief looks really overkill for the right side. I wouldn't use that manifold there because it will reduce your performance for no good reason. I would also be inclined to modify the edge of the control arm mount to clear the truck manifold rather than compromise the exhaust that much. But the left side is a different story. We'll see how it goes when I get it in there.

I fabbed up a baffle for my oil pan today. I put a 392 hemi into a '68 Barracuda when I was 16 and had a lot of fun with it. Back then I had to be careful about how hard I launched the car while going up even a small hill because I could easily lose oil pressure. I hope that this baffle will prevent that, although I don't know if I will have the same issues in this large barge. I designed it so that you have to insert the oil pickup with the pan towards the rear, and then scoot the pan forward after the pickup is inside the baffle. I did this to maximize the amount of coverage that it makes to the backside of the pan. I put oil drain holes in the rear corners and also in one spot on the front. I didn't put it on the other front side because I figure the oil can flow over the top of the baffle to the big access hole there. I am going to tack weld it in 9 places so that I could remove it in the future if it becomes necessary.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-13 9:00 PM




(392 Hemi Pan Baffle Notes.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-17 1:28 AM (#554459 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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It took me longer to get the heads on than I expected because I found that the crank counterweights were hitting the sides of the mounts for the windage tray. I think HotHeads put too much tolerance on those holes so it can move around a lot. Of course, I found this out after I had the pan installed and ready to go, so it came back apart again. But I ground down the sides of the mounts and got it back together again with no more surprises so far. I also put 2 clay blobs on a piston and one head on with pushrods and tested the valve to piston clearance. It looks fine so I put the heads on for good. I am now adjusting the push rods (the cam is a solid lifter version). I am planning to cut the water crossover at the yellow crayon line shown to add material and make it reach the aluminum head outlets. Wish me luck because I'm not sure how it is going to come out. I will swap out the valley cover once I get the 392 version cleaned and painted. I think the one on there is from a 331. The carbs need to be swapped too of course because I need the small top to mount to the air cleaners. Originally, the bottom crankshaft pulleys were painted silver with the motor. I have 4 different original crankshaft pulleys and they were all silver. But it looks better as black, and matches the water pump pulleys that way so I painted it black instead.



(57NY Hemi Assembly.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-17 1:42 AM (#554461 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I need the large outer water pump pulley to drive the generator so if anyone has one to sell me, I would appreciate it.

I began installing a new 2.5" stainless exhaust system that I purchased from Pypes that was made for a '59 Impala. It doesn't fit as well as I had hoped and will require modification, but it's a good starting point anyway. I removed the rusted original and it's a surprisingly small diameter - I didn't measure it, but maybe around 2" diameter. It also dumps well under the car before the rear bumper mount on the frame. I think I will extend it further than that though just to get the exhaust further from the back end of the car and prevent re-circulation under the car and into the trunk.



(57NY Tailpipe Exit.jpg)



(57NY Original Tailpipe.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Tailpipe Exit.jpg (193KB - 22 downloads)
Attachments 57NY Original Tailpipe.jpg (116KB - 26 downloads)
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60 Imp
Posted 2017-12-17 7:06 AM (#554463 - in reply to #554459)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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The engine looks good! I was thinking about the water crossover, someone competent with metal spraying might be able to do that job. Why did you use a Chev exhaust?

Steve.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-17 9:39 AM (#554469 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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nice heads... are those aluminum? wonder how much they save in weight?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-17 10:55 AM (#554475 - in reply to #554463)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Steve: I am going to spot weld new metal to the iron crossover and then braze it together. The hard part is going to be trying to make it look right with an extra inch+ added to it. I was going to cut it on both ends to keep the water port centered and the generator mount in the correct spot, but I have given up on that because it would be a lot more work. It would be easier to extend the other side, but then the generator mount would have to be practically eliminated. I bought the Chevy exhaust hoping that it would be close enough to work well here. I wanted 2.5" stainless exhaust and making it all custom is a lot more expensive. As it is, I only have to modify it a little bit. Saves time and money, but it would be nice if I could find something that was closer.

Mike: I think it saves around 80 lbs. But it makes a huge difference when you pick them up to move them around. You don't even feel the weight of these things. In the car, that weight is high up at the front of the car so it makes a big difference in the way the car handles.
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jboymechanic
Posted 2017-12-19 12:06 AM (#554616 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Why didn't Hot Heads make their aluminum heads work with the factory water crossover? The 1957 and 1958 Chrysler Hemi crossover works even on 331 and 354 engines despite the difference in block deck height between the blocks, why wouldn't hot heads do the same?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-19 12:47 AM (#554621 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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If you buy their aluminum 331/354 heads, you can use the stock crossover. On the 392 heads, they just cast the extra spacer into the 331 head to make it work on the 392, but didn't bother to move the water ports. So they are setup as if you were using 331 heads on your 392. It was a shortcut they took to make their life easier, but make mine harder. Their solution is to use this custom crossover, but that would look terrible in a '57 Chrysler so I am trying to modify the stock one to make it work and look better than otherwise.



(392 Hemi.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Hemi.jpg (117KB - 24 downloads)
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57burb
Posted 2017-12-19 9:09 AM (#554634 - in reply to #554621)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Man, I have spent some time myself to see if there is a cast crossover for your application. Somewhere in the recesses of my head, I recall one from PAW or HH. And it makes sense, too - people have been running 555 heads on 392s since about 1957. I see lots of options for the cast crossover - natural or polished, thermostat offset for blowers, 45 and 90 tstat housings, etc... but none for running 331/354 heads on a 392. Have you reached out to QEC / TR Waters / Hot Heads? They might have some advice. You might also ask here.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hemi-water-x-over-w-head...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-19 10:45 AM (#554643 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I would love to get ahold of more cast aluminum crossovers from PAW, but they are no longer available. They are stock dimensions though, but I could at least weld the aluminum better than cast iron. Problem is I wasn't smart enough to purchase more than 1 of them at the time. I don't want to cut that one up because I have a use for it in a different car. I could probably sell that thing for triple or quadruple what I paid for it now.



(PAW Aluminum Crossover.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-19 10:54 AM (#554644 - in reply to #554643)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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HH still offers a (standard-width) aluminum crossover, but it doesn't have the provisions for the generator mount and that's a problem if you intend to run one.

It also puts the thermostat in a different place. Pretty sure the intention here is to satisfy the people running BB Chevy water pumps.

http://www.powerplayhemi.com/water_pumps/crossover_cast_aluminum.ht...
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-19 9:50 PM (#554689 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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those PAW ones sell for 450$-500$ when they show up...
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2017-12-21 10:56 PM (#554840 - in reply to #553057)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Your car is progressing nicely, you’re very ambitious. On my 57 I used a dual reservoir master for a 68 Chrysler and had to trim the corner of the plug wire cover for clearance. I kinda hate that I trimmed it now but at the time I thought it would be preferable to having a remote reservoir. This past summer on a 108 degree afternoon I’m driving it home from a transmission shop, temp gauge is almost at overheat level, I get off the freeway and have extreme brake fade and end up slamming on the pedal in panic and locked um up, scary. After some thought I concluded that the brake fluid boiled from being too close to the engine and caused the problem. I’ve now switched to the highest temp racing brake fluid I could find and rebuilt the front brakes. Seems to be fine now but I’ll be driving it very carefully and put it to the test next summer on a vacant road. Any further issues I’ll be switching to your setup and disc brakes. Yours looks clean, keep up the good work.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-22 2:25 PM (#554876 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Steve. Good to know about the boiling brake fluid. I'll keep that in mind and keep an eye out for it. I'd like to see your car sometime. Ever come to Spring or Fall fling?

I split the crossover and am figuring out the best way to stitch it back together. Let the fab fun begin!



(Crossover Split.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-23 12:38 PM (#554920 - in reply to #554876)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks good. Stitching up that cast iron is going to be fun! Just curious, have you verified hood clearance with the carburetors and air cleaners? It gets pretty tight there.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-23 12:52 PM (#554922 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I checked out the hood clearance with the '58 New Yorker. There is actually more than you think because the AFB is quite a bit shorter than the original WCFB in the '57. I have 1/2" spacers under the carbs to prevent the linkage from whacking the intake, but it is still shorter than the original setup.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2017-12-24 3:08 PM (#554985 - in reply to #554876)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I’ll try to make it to the upcoming spring or fall fling, I’m trying to wrap up a few more items on the car before I get the upholstery done and can drive it without seat foam dust blowing around and coating me with a layer:)

Edited by Leadfoot1000 2017-12-24 3:09 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-26 10:58 PM (#555048 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Cool, I'm looking forward to seeing it Steve.

I installed the motor today. I still haven't installed the trans though, but I had to drill out the trans adapter to 1/2" holes in order to fit the 1/2-20 flywheel bolts that the previous owner tapped the crank to. The '58 air cleaners are just temporary and I am using them now because my '57 versions don't have paint yet. The carbs aren't ready to run yet, and I am working on the fuel lines; but at least they are the right style now. I cut the spark plug wires many years ago to run the motor with 426 hemi style, but now most of the shorter ones won't fit in the wire cover. So I will need to purchase a new set.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-26 11:03 PM




(392 In NewYorker.jpg)



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Attachments 392 In NewYorker.jpg (220KB - 22 downloads)
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58DeSoDodge59
Posted 2017-12-26 11:04 PM (#555049 - in reply to #555048)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Oh man, that's looking good !
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-26 11:33 PM (#555051 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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that's it.. I have to step up my game...

Hope to finish the trunk tomorrow..
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-27 1:46 AM (#555056 - in reply to #555051)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Kurt, I do like the look of the dual quad 392. Mike, your Dodge is moving a lot faster than mine already. I haven't really started the rust repair on the floors or quarters yet, just the roof & cowl. My biggest priority is to get it together and drive-able so I can work on a running vehicle. It makes it easier to move around and less potential hassle from the government. So that's why I am putting it together now.

When I first installed the motor, the left side exhaust manifold was sitting on top of the steering box and the right side had an enormous amount of clearance from the control arm. It baffled me for a while, but then I realized that the adjustable motor mounts were set to make that happen. The left side was rotated all the way down, while the right side was rotated all the way up that tilted the motor over to the left. I originally thought these mounts would self-level on their own, but apparently not. I am also unable to get them to move because they have been seized in position for many years. So I replaced the right side motor mount with one that was more in the downward position (this is actually the original mount to this car). That leveled things out much better to the point that there was 1/8-3/16" of clearance on the left side. I then took a file and filed the top edge of the steering box cover at a 30 degree angle to gain more clearance. Now I have around 3/8-7/16", which should be enough. The right side has around 3/4" clearance so no worries there.



(392 Right Clearance.jpg)



(392 Left Non-Clearance.jpg)



(392 Left Final Clearance.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Right Clearance.jpg (165KB - 20 downloads)
Attachments 392 Left Non-Clearance.jpg (129KB - 20 downloads)
Attachments 392 Left Final Clearance.jpg (117KB - 20 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-27 1:56 AM (#555057 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Also, I wanted to find out for sure if the vertical oil filter would work in a Chrysler or not. I can say that it definitely will not work. You would have to use a filter that was 2.5" long to fit above the torsion bar. So I removed it and installed a 30 degree angled filter.



(Wrong Filter Angle.jpg)



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Attachments Wrong Filter Angle.jpg (178KB - 22 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-29 3:00 PM (#555197 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4537
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Location: So. California
I mounted up the '63 push button 727 to the car and was ready to bolt up the torque converter when I realized that it was completely impossible to do so. The Hot Heads adapter I am using completely blocks off access to the bolts because the early bolt locations are further out on the plate. What the?!? I did buy this adapter originally for a 4speed eons ago, and then got the other parts to make it work with the automatic, but I didn't think they used a different style for the auto? I don't know, but anyway, I had to disassemble it all to modify the adapter. You can't imagine how much I enjoyed cutting away at it with my die grinder while attached to the motor with the flexplate there under the car, and all the nice things that I said at the time. I also tried out my bolts on my new torque converter while it was back out, and good thing I did because one bolt would not go in the hole straight no matter how much I tried. So I got out my tap and insisted that it went straight only to have a crappily installed heili-coil come out of the hole! That's just unacceptable. Good thing I purchased 2 of them. The other converter bolt pads were so rusted tight that I had to tap them out first in order to get a bolt through them. I guess they were digging deep in their pile to get these cores! But I got that one to work and installed it. What a pain. That little jaunt cost me almost an entire day of work.



(TransAdapter Relief Mod2.jpg)



(TransAdapter Relief Mod1.jpg)



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Attachments TransAdapter Relief Mod2.jpg (55KB - 20 downloads)
Attachments TransAdapter Relief Mod1.jpg (61KB - 20 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-12-29 5:39 PM (#555206 - in reply to #555197)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Sorry for your problems with the trans adapter.

I forgot to ask "When did FRAM start making motor mounts?"



Hope you have a good 2018 Nathan.

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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-29 7:53 PM (#555216 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Good one Dave.
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57burb
Posted 2017-12-29 10:55 PM (#555222 - in reply to #555206)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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A Napa / Wix 1335 / 15335 is a Super short variant of that full size Ford filter you have there. Might be a short term option to get it running, but I'd recommend a different adapter and full size filter eventually. No Fram, though.

I have no fitment issues with a horizontal mounted filter. My adapter came from TR Waters.

Great progress, Nathan! This stuff never just bolts together. You'll get it rolling around soon.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2017-12-29 11:56 PM (#555225 - in reply to #555222)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I used the horizontal mount also, the clearance is great, but I had to have the mounting flange machined a bit to clear a knuckle on the trans adapter plate. TR Waters did the machining for me before they shipped it. I’m using a Purolator PL30001. Taking these photos reminds me I need to get busy detailing the engine compartment.



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Attachments 630184ED-B0C0-4B7B-A797-A87A9647A486.jpeg (71KB - 33 downloads)
Attachments 7FFD7CD2-3DA7-4D0E-884B-5B5BDBC7C9C4.jpeg (84KB - 28 downloads)
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billy
Posted 2018-01-03 11:49 AM (#555524 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looking Good Nathan....
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billy
Posted 2018-01-03 12:02 PM (#555525 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Word to the wise...i kinda skimped when i bought the dual exhaust for my 57 New Yorker...ended up biting me in the ars....the muffler blew a hole out thru the top side (where it could not be seen) heated up the floor and set my carpet, in the back seat area, on fire...i can get you a picture of mine now if you like,,,but mine is a 4 dr sedan...billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-03 12:57 PM (#555528 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks guys. I installed a 30 degree filter adapter right after I took the picture of the vertical one hitting the T-bar. I was anticipating it having issues so I purchased the 30 degree version ahead of time and had it ready to go.

I am just starting working on the exhaust now Billy, along with finishing up a bunch of other things on this. Snaking the 2.5" pipe between the steering gear, brake lines and T-bar is going to be a challenge so I am starting from the back of the car I bought a short section of flex tubing to figure out the bends I will need there, and reproduce it with mandrel bent pipe. And I may end up flattening the pipe a bit if I need more clearance in spots.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-09 4:36 PM (#555932 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Being holed up in my garage because of the rain gave me time to work on the crossover patch for the aluminum heads. I made a cardboard template first, but ended up splitting it in half because cutting it from one piece like this wasted a lot of metal. I used 3/16" plate for it. Although harder to work with , it better matches the thickness of the cast iron and gives me more room to cut into when I grind the welds to look pretty. I welded it together at the two ends with regular wire, but will use this 55% Nickel wire when I weld it to the cast iron. I will also preheat the whole part with an oxy-acetylene torch before I begin welding it. That should seal pretty well, but I don't trust these things very much so I will put a thin layer of brass over the top of the welds afterward just to be sure. But....I can't finish it until I get a spool adapter to run this tiny spool on my welder.



(Crossover Patch Assembly.jpg)



(Crossover Patch.jpg)



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Attachments Crossover Patch Assembly.jpg (186KB - 26 downloads)
Attachments Crossover Patch.jpg (124KB - 22 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-12 3:44 PM (#556116 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I finished the 2.5" stainless rear exhaust up to just past the T-bar and transmission mount. I ended up just needing to add a section of 45 degree pipe to the top center of the '59 GM tailpipe (purchased from Pypes) to make it work well on the New Yorker. Not too hard, in the end, so that was nice. Going further forward looks to be difficult. I put the pipe inside the trans crossmember, but now it looks like I need to wrap the pipe around the T-bar in order to get it up to the manifold without getting in the way of the trans cables and steering arms. This isn't going to be fun and I probably should put a break in there somewhere so I can remove it easier in the future. More work to do, but fun work nevertheless.



(Rt Tailpipe.jpg)



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Attachments Rt Tailpipe.jpg (78KB - 22 downloads)
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-13 9:04 PM (#556174 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I’m doing some detail work on my engine right now and I like the finish on your valve covers, looks great. What brand/type paint did you use? On my brake booster I painted the end plates gold, and then fogged silver over it holding the can about 16-18” away, then four coats of clear. It toned down the gold and is pretty good match to factory. In the photo the bottom plate is the one I painted and the top plate is the factory finish, still good on the inside of the rear plate. I think the booster plates were factory anodized (different factory) but were the valve covers painted or anodized by the factory? Anybody know?

Also, it looks to me like the inner fenders can be removed, painted and replaced without removing the fenders or core support. Is that correct?

Edit: I still haven’t figured out how to convert a .jpeg photo to a .jpg photo on a mobile device, hence the hidden photo.

Edited by Leadfoot1000 2018-01-13 9:17 PM




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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-13 9:18 PM (#556175 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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We are talking about 300C now, just to be clear as the New Yorker valve covers were painted silver with the motor. The 300C valve covers were painted just like the air cleaners with the gold paint. I used dupicolor gold engine paint which seems to be a pretty good match for the original color, but this particular can came out a little lighter for some reason, but still close. The '58 air cleaners from Sweden on my motor are darker than original color. If you want a more shiny look, you can spray a urethane clear over that afterward.

Your brake plates look great, much better than mine. When or if I ever take it off again I will give that a try. Unfortunately, no, the inner fenders are integrally tied to the outer fenders and the core support. It is actually kind of difficult to put the fenders on without chipping and scratching the paint on the inner fenders because they interlock on the top and front of them.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-13 9:30 PM (#556177 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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I used vht high temp engine paint on mine.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-engine-metallic

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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-01-13 11:28 PM (#556187 - in reply to #555932)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2018-01-09 4:36 PM

Being holed up in my garage because of the rain gave me time to work on the crossover patch for the aluminum heads. I made a cardboard template first, but ended up splitting it in half because cutting it from one piece like this wasted a lot of metal. I used 3/16" plate for it. Although harder to work with , it better matches the thickness of the cast iron and gives me more room to cut into when I grind the welds to look pretty. I welded it together at the two ends with regular wire, but will use this 55% Nickel wire when I weld it to the cast iron. I will also preheat the whole part with an oxy-acetylene torch before I begin welding it. That should seal pretty well, but I don't trust these things very much so I will put a thin layer of brass over the top of the welds afterward just to be sure. But....I can't finish it until I get a spool adapter to run this tiny spool on my welder.


Why not use stick Ni-rod, you can overfill and it will grind down nicely?

Greg
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-13 11:29 PM (#556188 - in reply to #556175)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I was under the impression that New Yorker valve covers were gold from the factory. Mine are silver but the engine has been previously rebuilt, I assumed they were painted silver out of convenience during the rebuild. So you have seen non repainted New Yorker engines and they were always silver? When I search for New Yorker engines, there are some gold covers, but mostly they are silver. Hard for me to determine without seeing an original one.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-14 2:19 AM (#556191 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Greg, I didn't use a Ni rod for the simple reason that I don't have a stick welder. All I have is Mig and Oxy-Acetylene. I have never used the Ni wire on cast iron until now, but it really does a great job. I just finished welding it up today and it turned out great. I was going to run brass over the top of it, but it worked so well that I am going to try it without the brass and see how it goes. I have no reason to believe that it will leak at all. The welds came out really nice and also really hard. It is a form of hardened stainless when finished welding so grinding the welds is a little more time consuming, but not too bad. One odd thing was that the length came out too long when I used the other 392 with 331 heads compared to the aluminum heads. So I had to grind the part smaller and tack weld it together on the aluminum headed motor instead. It was a significant amount like 1/8" difference.

Steve, yes, New Yorker valve covers are silver from the factory. Lots of owners copy the gold 300 look though because it looks great that way. One thing that I am unsure of is if a dealer installed the dual quad option on a New Yorker, would they then have painted the covers gold to match the air cleaners or left them silver? My guess is they probably would have left them silver. But it doesn't really matter much to me though. I am painting them to match because it looks good that way.


Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-14 10:25 AM




(Crossover Done.jpg)



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big m
Posted 2018-01-15 1:02 PM (#556304 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks great!!!!!
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57burb
Posted 2018-01-15 6:00 PM (#556337 - in reply to #556304)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Re: Valve cover and air cleaner gold paint, from Wayne Graefen's '57 300 C handbook:

SEMI GLOSS CHRYSLER BRONZE
- Valve covers
- Air cleaners + filter can side wing nuts
NOTE: The factory supplied paint for these was literally a bronze powder to be mixed with clear enamel. Factory drawing #1821398 states to paint assembly "Gold C9090C per process standard #807"
NOTE: Air cleaners were made by AC Corp. and painted by them prior to shipping. It is not uncommon on an authentic original car to find a different shade (usually lighter) of paint on the air cleaners than that of the valve covers which are believed to have been painted either by Chrysler or another outside supplier.



As mentioned, this is 300 specification only. Most (all?) New Yorkers were built with silver valve covers and a single black air cleaner. I have never seen a NYer with the optional dual quad intake, so I can't comment on how those engines were finished.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-01-15 9:19 PM (#556355 - in reply to #556191)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2018-01-14 2:19 AM

Greg, I didn't use a Ni rod for the simple reason that I don't have a stick welder. All I have is Mig and Oxy-Acetylene. I have never used the Ni wire on cast iron until now, but it really does a great job. I just finished welding it up today and it turned out great. I was going to run brass over the top of it, but it worked so well that I am going to try it without the brass and see how it goes. I have no reason to believe that it will leak at all. The welds came out really nice and also really hard. It is a form of hardened stainless when finished welding so grinding the welds is a little more time consuming, but not too bad. One odd thing was that the length came out too long when I used the other 392 with 331 heads compared to the aluminum heads. So I had to grind the part smaller and tack weld it together on the aluminum headed motor instead. It was a significant amount like 1/8" difference.

Steve, yes, New Yorker valve covers are silver from the factory. Lots of owners copy the gold 300 look though because it looks great that way. One thing that I am unsure of is if a dealer installed the dual quad option on a New Yorker, would they then have painted the covers gold to match the air cleaners or left them silver? My guess is they probably would have left them silver. But it doesn't really matter much to me though. I am painting them to match because it looks good that way.

Very nice, Nathan. What shielding gas did you use for the mig?
Greg
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-15 10:05 PM (#556357 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Hey Burb, thanks for confirmation of the clarification on NY’er valve cover color. Silver is fine with me. If I ever added dual quads I would probably use gold like Nathan is. It’s tempting though as the single WCFB doesn’t seem to flow enough air to satisfy the beast.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-16 1:38 PM (#556398 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks John and Danny for the info. Greg, I used the same 75% argon, 25% CO2 that I use with the regular wire. That mix was recommended by the manufacturer of the nickel wire too. Steve, you can purchase a newer ('59-'65?) AFB with a small air horn on it that's a much larger size from a 413 motor. That would wake that motor up quite a bit. I think the later carbs are larger than the earlier ones so probably best to look at carbs from the mid '60's.

I made the base plate for the trans mount and found that the '70 Ford Galaxy inner bearing race that I yank from the front rotors (for the Scarebird conversion) makes a nice centering ring for the '62-'65 trans mount. I need to figure out the proper height for it to sit before I finish the gusseting and attach the mount. I also purchased the proper 3-groove water pump pulley as I happened to see it for sale on Ebay, and I got the alternator mounted to the *mostly* correct position on a modified bracket, with spacer.



(57NY Alternator & Mount.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-16 3:08 PM (#556407 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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looks darn good. what distributor fits under there?
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57burb
Posted 2018-01-16 5:54 PM (#556416 - in reply to #556407)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looking great!
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-16 10:20 PM (#556426 - in reply to #556407)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks, I'm using the stock small block electronic distributor with an HEI module mounted to the bottom of it. Fits just like the original. But my high power coil is harder to find a good place for. I will probably make a mount for it off the back of the rear carb. Today I futzed with adjusting the rotating motor mounts and found that you can really move the motor around quite a bit. Now I have about 5/8" clearance to the steering box and 7/16" to the right control arm mount. I am thinking that the left mount I used will sink a little over time so I am going to leave it there, but I ended up just using mounts that had centered bolts in them instead of the offset versions. I started out with the right side all the way up, and the left all the way down. That was a miserable combination.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-18 11:20 AM (#556514 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the tips on the afb carb Nathan, that’s a good idea, I’ll keep it in mind. That’s a neat trick you’re doing there adjusting the motor mounts for optimum clearance. Are the stock mounts adjustable? If not what mounts are you using? My clearance at the master cylinder to valve cover is minimal, if I could lower the engine even 1/4” it would make my day.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-18 11:45 AM (#556517 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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the mounts have that offset rubber hole so you can rotate that a move things a bit. when you say small block you just mean a poly distributor? like off a 70's 318? like this with a "hemi" adapter to get the extra length? I think something like this would work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/65K-HEI-IGNITION-DISTRIBUTOR-for-CHRYSLER-D...

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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-18 9:02 PM (#556542 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes a 318 distributor from '71-'77 or so (pre lean-burn). The HEI version you posted won't work because the cap is too big to fit well. I make and sell my own HEI conversion, and I am my own best customer!
http://designed2drive.com/

Steve, the mount looks like this so that rotating the rubber part of the mount in the housing will move the motor around. But the later versions got rid of the adjustment and just has them centered in the mount.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-18 9:08 PM




(Dist_Side_Wires.JPG)



(57Mount.jpg)



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billy
Posted 2018-01-22 11:50 AM (#556739 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Coming along really nice Nathan...I learn so much from this site...Did not know what color the stock valve covers and air cleaner were...now i do...somehow I ended up with red air cleaner when i bought it in 1977....
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-22 7:36 PM (#556768 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Billy. The problem with a black & white car is most of the engine bay is black and silver. Makes for a dull colored engine bay. But at least the gold is spicing it up quite a bit. I got a couple of things done. First, I installed an electric choke on the rear carb with custom linkage that I made up. I still need to take the rear carb back off to make a bracket to mount the coil, and to drill out the back end to install a PCV hose to the backside of it. I also had a power steering hose made up for it. I used brake line with inverted flare fittings and brazed those lines to other fittings made for this. The pump side used 3/8" tube and the box side used 1/4" tube, but I re-used the 1/4" fitting since it was a unique female version. I decided to powder-coat the wire covers and brake vacuum tank. I figured they would be more durable that way and the chances of me painting the tank without a run in this colder weather seemed small. But you can't have any filler when you powder coat so you get what you get and my tank looks a little pitted in places, but still looks really good nevertheless. I didn't find any big difference in how well the marine covers fit verses the standard ones yet. The sticking point is the height, and they are both about the same height.

I was disappointed to find out that the air cleaners don't clear the hood when it is down. The hood is resting on the grill when it is down, but it should be close to where it will sit. The other single air cleaner that I have is a little shorter for some reason. I didn't think that they made 2 different versions, but apparently they did. I may be forced to find another one of those to use instead of these because I can't reduce the height any further than it is without creating linkage problems with the carbs.



(392 Choke2.jpg)



(300 Air Cleaners.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-23 6:50 PM (#556824 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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This carburetor from '57 had a 1/4 pipe boss on the back of it with an entrance to the intake plenum, but it wasn't drilled through and wasn't tapped. So I drilled and tapped it to provide a PCV port connection.



(PCV Connection.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-23 6:58 PM (#556825 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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just making me more happy I'm going with a EFI holly carb setup... I hope... hey its even gold.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_e...
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-24 1:59 PM (#556862 - in reply to #556825)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I like the idea of those self-contained EFI units. I have one from FiTech that I will be trying to adapt to the slant 6 in my Lancer wagon. But putting them on an older car makes it necessary to adapt the air cleaner housing, which would be a real pain on a dual 4 job like this car with very limited hood clearance. I would probably end up having to fab up a whole new inlet on it.

I made a coil mount with vertical gussets that bolts to the backside of the carb. Hopefully it won't whack the coil on the heater housing, but that was the best I could do with it because space is so limiited. I didn't want to mount it too far away from the distributor with a super long wire so this is where it ended up. We'll see how well it works once I start it up.



(Hemi Coil Bracket.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2018-01-25 12:50 PM (#556908 - in reply to #556862)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The engine compartment is shaping up nice. Sorry to hear about the hood clearance issue.

Just thinking out loud here. If you end up wanting to change the location of that coil, what about a spot inside the car? The area of the cowl under the dash and forward of the door at the passenger foot well might have enough room. Extend the + and - coil wires, then one of these at the firewall: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40325/10002/-1
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-25 6:10 PM (#556919 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the suggestion. I wasn't aware that such a thing existed. But if it gives me any trouble or looks too close for comfort, I will make a bracket to hold it on the side of the intake. I was just trying to make it less visible since it is obviously not stock. But I doubt it will be an issue because the exhaust is going to hit everything else before the coil does. I guess it's a good thing that I spent a lot of money and trouble to balance the motor before I put it back together.

I finished the front section of the right side exhaust today, but I still need to connect the front to the rear section. This is version no. 2. I first tried to make the exhaust exit to the outside so that I could always keep it above the T-bars; but it required some pretty severe kinks because 2.5" pipe just doesn't want to bend that fast. And it would be impossible to try and do that on the left side with the steering box and all the cables going through that area. So I put it toward the inside instead and will have to go under the T-bar as it goes back above the trans crossmember. To make that situation less painful, I put a ball socket connector in that region so it could be disconnected easily in case I need to mess with the T-bars or remove the exhaust for some other reason. It isn't a bad arrangement though because it does go above and behind the steering and doesn't go lower until it gets to the transmission pan. In fact, the exhaust doesn't hang much lower than the 2 qt extra deep oil pan on the transmission.

Edit: The phillips screws in my wire covers are only temporary. I am ordering flat-drive oval-head versions like the originals. And thanks Danny for the flange suggestion. It worked out well.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-25 10:29 PM




(57NY RtFrnt Exhaust.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-26 1:41 PM (#556965 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I made up some carb linkage. I used 1/4" tubing and welded 2 nuts on long 10-32 bolts into the ends to mount the heim joints. I didn't use progressive linkage because my old motor was more responsive and seemed to run better with fixed linkage. The other connection I had to hand fabricate from a different piece. I heated the round rod up red hot and flattened it with a hammer, and then cut a slot into it. It works and is very strong because of the forging process, but looks a little home-made. Oh well. I may try cleaning it up a little, or I may just leave it. The routing of that heater hose bugs me. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the generator bracket to route it under there. I am ordering a 45 degree fitting to finally mount the vacuum switch. That should get it out of the way of everything, but it might look a little goofy.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-26 1:56 PM




(57NY Carb Linkage.jpg)



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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-26 10:42 PM (#556989 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Lookin good. Maybe you can make a bracket out of some strap, similar to original with a rolled hoop at the top, that mounts to the intake and holds the heater hose away from the carbs.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-01-26 11:51 PM (#556991 - in reply to #556919)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2018-01-25 6:10 PM

Edit: The phillips screws in my wire covers are only temporary. I am ordering flat-drive oval-head versions like the originals. And thanks Danny for the flange suggestion. It worked out well.


While slot head screws were more common, Phillips and even hex head were also used so none could be considered wrong!

Thanks for the shielding gas info.

Greg
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-30 9:09 PM (#557242 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Steve, when I routed the heater hose between the alternator & intake; I think where it is supposed to go, it worked pretty well. I just didn't have it in the right spot. Thanks for the input Greg. I have only seen the slotted heads on the 4-5 original Chrysler motors that I have come across. And those screws have a unique built-in star type of lock washer on them. Do you know if there was a difference for Chrysler vs. Dodge vs. DeSoto?

I mostly finished making the trans mount adapter for the '62-'65 trans. It centers it's original rubber mount on the Ford inner bearing race and mounts with a single screw up from below. The 2 mounting holes toward the front are already present on the crossmember, but the rear one I had to drill into it to mount this to the top of it. The center of the trans mount sits approximately 2.5" in front of the front flange of the crossmember. The bearing race sitting directly on the mount puts the transmission centerline at approximately 4" above the crossmember, which is pretty close to the stock location. I have left the ring loose in case I want/need to move the mounting hole and center or raise the trans to a different location, but that shouldn't be necessary.



(57NY Trans Mount.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-30 9:16 PM (#557243 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I also decided to replace the Pypes racepro mufflers with some 24" stainless Dynomax Ultraflow mufflers. The Pypes mufflers are basically the same design as these, but they are too short at 14" long. That makes them louder than I would like them to be. I will probably use them on my '33 Chevy where it will be more appropriate to have louder mufflers. But these 24" Dynomax units should work out pretty well on this car.



(57NY Dynomax SS Mufflers.jpg)



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58DeSoDodge59
Posted 2018-01-30 11:16 PM (#557247 - in reply to #557243)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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You do good work Sir.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-31 1:08 AM (#557252 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I have a 20” pair of those same mufflers sitting in my parts room patiently waiting their turn to be installed. I’ve heard them on other cars and they sound great, connecting them to a Hemi can only improve the note :-) I think you made a good choice.

Edited by Leadfoot1000 2018-01-31 1:10 AM
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-05 9:29 PM (#557580 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Steve & Kurt. Your cars are coming along nicely too! This car seems to take forever to get running, but it is mostly because of the lack of proper parts. I'm still waiting for the proper speedometer cable so I can fill the trans and attempt to start the motor for the first time. Of course it needs a lot of other details addressed first like crimping the plug wires and finishing the exhaust. But at least I have the entire right side and left rear exhaust finished; so I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.

Tonight, I removed the push button shifter to test the switches on it and to install the new dash pad. I also removed the crimped bracket on the end of the '63 push button cable so I could insert a heat-shrink tube with built-in sealer over it. This will help to protect the cable sheath (down by the transmission end) and hopefully prevent it from leaking in the future. Removing that bracket also helps to get the cable through the firewall easier. Measuring it out, it looks to barely make it through the hole in the firewall with the bracket still attached, maybe. The only problem will be trying to re-crimp it with the cable coming through the dash, but I think I can handle that with a very large pair of channel locks. The bracket and geometry looks exactly the same as the original '57 cable, except that the original cable was a much bigger diameter on the cable part itself. Apparently, they discovered that they could get away with using a smaller cable size in the early sixties.

Edit: Except....that I have a major problem with my plan. My shifter cable is too short! I should have expected that really. Now I need to look for a cable from a truck or maybe a C or D-body? Great, just what I wanted to do.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-05 10:11 PM




('63 PBCable Sleeve.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-11 2:06 AM (#557885 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am trying to get the windshield re-installed to ensure that I don't get rain water on my dash. So I spent a couple days installing the dash pad. It took a lot longer than I expected, mainly because everything you install back onto it is an adventure. Holes must be cut, positions secured with often missing or improper hardware. I ended up breaking the lower screw in the mirror mount because of the stress applied from the new pad in the way of the screws. That wasn't fun to remove. No access to the backside and the screw is recessed deep in a cavity. Of course the whole pad had to come off again to fix it. But I got it done and it looks pretty good now so I am happy. The pad is a little too silvery of a color, but it is close enough to look good. I left the air vent pucks loose for the time being so that I can potentially remove the pad easily in the future if needed to work on the gauge pod. Removing those air vents is a real pain that I am trying to avoid. Now I need to round up a windshield gasket and figure out how to make it work.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-11 2:11 AM




(57NY DashPad Installed.jpg)



(57NY DashPad Vents.jpg)



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DejaVu
Posted 2018-02-11 5:02 AM (#557887 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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That pad and installation looks really sharp - a credit to RD and you. Envious!!
Cheers
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ToMopar
Posted 2018-02-11 7:01 AM (#557889 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Natan, great to see the success of the new dash. For me the most pain was to cut the holes into the new dash.
But you do the other way around, install the dash w/o the windshield, good idea, and much easier to fasten the screws from molding.
Could you rescue the seal of windshield?
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-11 10:43 AM (#557892 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Tom & Ian. Yes, this task was much easier with the windshield out. I don't know how I would have cut all those holes (especially the one for the mirror mount) & removed that broken screw if the windshield were in place. That would have been much more difficult. Being a California car, the windshield rubber was in 100 pieces and hard as a rock. So I purchased a pliable seal from the East coast for a 4dr sedan. I am hoping that all I have to do is cut it to remove some height out of it to make it work. We'll see how it goes.
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57burb
Posted 2018-02-11 2:28 PM (#557903 - in reply to #557892)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The pad looks amazing, better than New. Great job getting it in there, I know what a pain that is. My coupe had a too-long mirror screw and it was actually bent between the mirror and the firewall. The only way to remove it was with the dashboard and windshield removed, and a cut off wheel.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-11 3:12 PM (#557905 - in reply to #557903)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I suspect that may be the same thing that happened to me - using a screw that was too long and bending the end on it; because it would not come out no matter what. That is definitely the worst place to break off a screw that I have encountered. I got lucky and was able to twist it all the way through after I drilled a hole through it. Welding a nut to it was extremely difficult and still didn't allow me to remove it - but did get a little more of the screw out of there so it had more room to twist back down and out.
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miquelonbrad
Posted 2018-02-12 7:23 AM (#557937 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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WOW!!! That looks awesome! If I was doing work outside right now, the car would be covered in snow, and my hands would be numb...it's -30c here!
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-02-12 12:00 PM (#557952 - in reply to #557937)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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miquelonbrad - 2018-02-12 4:23 AM

WOW!!! That looks awesome! If I was doing work outside right now, the car would be covered in snow, and my hands would be numb...it's -30c here!


I was painting some parts outside last week and a couple of them got too warm hanging in the sun, the paint wasn’t flowing so good on the surface. I moved them to a shady spot to finish.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-12 1:51 PM (#557971 - in reply to #557952)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Very true Steve. Last week was too hot, if anything. -22F sounds too frigid for my bones, but having a nice big shop like you do makes me very envious. Put a pot bellied wood burner in the middle of that shop, and you would have instant heat, really cheap. I grew up with a wood burning stove, and they work really well if you put them in the middle of the room.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-13 1:34 PM (#558042 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I took the easy way out and had my fenders & left door media-blasted. This is the replacement door that I am building up since the original had a lot of bondo on it. I had already repaired some rust on the outer skin lap joint that is visible at the bottom of the photo. I just need to clean up the welds on it. I told them to only lightly blast the insides to remove anything that is loose. If the undercoating is stuck on well, just leave it. Nevertheless, 99% of the undercoating was removed. Looks like almost all of it was only loosely holding on. I found a couple of small repairs on the left fender that I didn't know was there and a small rust spot on the right fender. If you want to find extra work to do on your perfect body panels, have them sandblasted and you will see all sorts of new work appear! I sealed the insides of the fenders and will seal the outsides soon too, to prevent rust from starting. But I will try to get the majority of the repairs done before I finish it.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-13 1:44 PM




(SandBlasted Fenders.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-14 12:58 PM (#558102 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I bought this pliable windshield gasket from back east and got it pretty cheap because it was from a '57 4dr sedan. I figured I could try cutting it to shorten the height and make it work. But I tried it out today and found that it already fits perfectly. It must have been from a 4dr hardtop instead. You can imagine my disappointment when I found that out. It has a lot of misc debri stuck to it in the channel for the metal flange that I need to clean out, but it is one of the more pliable gaskets I have seen, so I am happy. I feel that the lack of good window rubber is the biggest problem with working on these cars.



(57 Window Rubber.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-02-14 11:32 PM (#558127 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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it isn't fun, I sold a 2 door ht front seal and regret it but I think I'm good, I have my hoarding under control you could cut it but yes a 4 dr ht fits. Nice score.
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ToMopar
Posted 2018-02-15 2:45 AM (#558130 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Nathan, - what is pretty cheap?
I paid $325 for a used seal + shipping !! At the end I decide to use "my" old seal instead of the $325 seal

By the way, check the thread http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=50768 about windscreen interchangable and according to the windshield is the seal
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57burb
Posted 2018-02-15 11:06 AM (#558140 - in reply to #558130)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Great score! If it fits your coupe opening, then it certainly came from a 4dr hardtop.

Tom, I'd say the price you paid is on the high side for sure - especially for a part you did not use.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-02-15 11:10 PM (#558182 - in reply to #558102)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2018-02-14 12:58 PM

I bought this pliable windshield gasket from back east and got it pretty cheap because it was from a '57 4dr sedan. I figured I could try cutting it to shorten the height and make it work. But I tried it out today and found that it already fits perfectly. It must have been from a 4dr hardtop instead. You can imagine my disappointment when I found that out. It has a lot of misc debri stuck to it in the channel for the metal flange that I need to clean out, but it is one of the more pliable gaskets I have seen, so I am happy. I feel that the lack of good window rubber is the biggest problem with working on these cars.


I'm sure most will say not to do it --- and I would have been one of them, but, use lots of lacquer thinner soaked scotchbrite pads. It will eat your rubber gloves off and it will be a week before your black fingers get clean!

It will dissolve the surface of the rubber and even seal small weather cracks. It will further soften the rubber and clean up all the debris including layers of body repaint! It will take a lot of rubbing. You will wind up with a nice satin gloss to the rubber and I could take close-ups of my Regal to show what it will look like 20 years from now if you want!!

Go for it!

Greg
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-16 1:34 AM (#558190 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Tom, I paid around $60 + shipping, but like I said; it was listed for a sedan so no one else bid on it. Greg, that's an interesting idea to use lacquer thinner. I didn't know that it would affect the rubber that way. I was going to clean it up with hand cleaner like I have heard others use, but I needed to get it installed asap so I could leave on vacation without worrying about my new dash getting wet. I also didn't trust myself with a brand new windshield because I have never installed one before. So I quickly put the crappy old glass back in and I didn't bother cleaning the rubber very much or the windshield first. It was more of a practice run, but I wish I would have lubed it up more because it was pretty difficult to install. I wanted to set the bottom of the glass first so that I had gravity working on my side, but I found that I couldn't do it that way because I couldn't get the glass to clear the lip over the roof. So I had to install it at the top first, and then pry out the rubber from under the glass at the bottom. It seemed harder than it should have been, but I got it done and the seal worked out great. I will pull it back out when I get a new windshield for it and do a better job of it. One issue that I noticed was that the corners had a lot bigger gap in the rubber than what was on the car so the 2 bottom corners aren't sealing well to the car. It's going to need a good amount of sealer to keep the water out of those areas.
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Viper Guy
Posted 2018-02-16 10:33 PM (#558237 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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We use lacquer thinner to clean all reusable rubber at Bob Schmidt's Smitty's Classic Cars restroation shop. It cleans and softens nicely with the vent window rubber being the most "popular" mainly because the vent window frames often need rechroming. We "slick" them up with Armour All for installation.

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billy
Posted 2018-02-22 11:38 AM (#558617 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Dash looks amazing,,,where did you get it? How much am i looking to do the same...I need green though..
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-22 12:23 PM (#558620 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Using Armour All would have made installing the rubber much easier for sure. I purchased the new dash pad from Sweden from R.D. Autoline. http://autoline.se/?lang=en_us They come in black only, but you can have them paint it for you if you email them an accurate picture of the color.

I had a pint of paint mixed up, custom matched to the paint on the backside of my trim panels and painted all of the trim and mirror parts.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-24 5:24 PM (#558776 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I spent the day making all the wiring & tightening all the fittings I had neglected to do. I also made a new coil bracket. The old one was just too tight and really limited my ability to mess with the distributor so I moved it to under the right side air cleaner. The bracket to stabilize the air cleaner currently hits the coil, but I will bend it out a little bit. I am thinking of possibly mounting that to one of the bolts that holds the coil together since it is really close to it. I may also/instead make a bracket from the choke housing to the coil, but it really doesn't need it because it is held pretty tight. But that may help prevent vibration issues as things loosen up a little with time.



(57NY Coil Bracket.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-03 10:18 PM (#559163 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I finished the exhaust yesterday so I started working on all the little details required to run the motor like filling everything with the proper fluids etc. I couldn't get the oil pressure line removed from the back of the gauge pod so I just installed the oil line to a separate gauge setting on the floor. I am thinking it might be easier to remove the pressure gauge with the line still attached and swap the lines outside, but I'm sure it's easier said than done.

After I finished with all that, I hooked up a battery and got the motor running today! It started right up at first so that was cool, but it immediately started spewing fuel all over the place because apparently the front carb was put together with mismatched parts so that the top isn't sealed to the bottom. I'm pretty sure I bought that carb as a fully rebuilt deal. So I plugged off the front fuel line and tried running it with the rear carb only. But I couldn't get it started and noticed that the rear carb was dribbling fuel out of it too. So I replaced both carbs with two 400 cfm afb's that I had originally purchased to use with this motor. With these carbs, I was able to get the motor running again and got it to idle pretty well once I adjusted the regular & fast idle screws way down from where they were. I think the dual quads don't require as much preset to idle. The motor gave me a scare at first because I heard a low end knock, but it turned out to be just from too much advance. Once I retarded the ignition more, it went away. The power steering works well so that's nice. I didn't get a chance to shift the trans but I will try it out once I get some coolant in the motor. Next up is to install the radiator support along with the radiator.

The new carbs have the large air cleaner opening so I will have to rebuild the old ones or swap tops so I can run the old air cleaners. I expect that I should be able to reubuild the rear carb, but the front carb is pretty hopless without the right parts. So I will probably keep the other carbs on there for a while until I get it figured out.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-03-04 12:10 AM (#559168 - in reply to #559163)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Those oil lines/fittings are weird. Sort of like a ball joint! I always managed to wrench them off but it took more pressure than one would normally be comfortable with!!

Sounds like the ongoing problems I had with that marine engine. Go for it ------- you will win!

Greg
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-04 3:07 PM (#559203 - in reply to #559168)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yeah, I had to tighten that oil line fitting a lot to get it to stop leaking. The new exhaust looks funny next to the completely untouched back end of the car. I'm not gonna rebuild or replace the fuel tank until the car is nearly ready to drive. I learned that lesson the hard way. Trying to keep old fuel from going bad is a pain.



(57NYRearExhaust.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2018-03-05 11:25 AM (#559265 - in reply to #559203)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Congrats, you got a runner!! So how does it sound with all the mystery parts in the engine?

Exhaust looks terrific.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-05 12:39 PM (#559272 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Not quite a runner yet, but the motor sounds & feels really STRONG. I can tell immediately that it has high compression because of the way it runs, how responsive it is, and how quickly the battery will die if it doesn't start. And you can always tell when a motor has been balanced because it runs so smooth. I'm really glad I took the time to tear the bottom end apart because it would have been a waste of time to try it as it was, and then tear it apart again. We'll see how the cam feels once I get coolant into it and take a jaunt up the road a bit. I don't hear any lifter noise so that's a good sign that I have the gaps set properly. But, I'm not looking forward to pulling the master so I can adjust them. Hopefully, i can just bend the lines a bit to move it out of the way and then bring it back to position afterward so that I can avoid having to bleed the brakes every time.

Looks like your car is getting pretty close to driving again, which is awesome too! I'm glad to see you get it together again. You're much further along in the paint and interior than I am, but I probably won't wait to get all that squared away first. My first burnout is scheduled before the end of March!
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-08 5:24 PM (#559474 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I installed the core support, horns & radiator and filled it up with coolant. No leaks even under pressure! That nickel welding wire really works well. I supported the core support (& battery) with a couple of brackets since my fenders aren't ready to install yet and I set it up so that I could potentially drive the car this way around my property to get it off my driveway. I really need to work on some of my other cars now to fix a bunch of minor things on them. That blue jug is my 1 gallon fuel tank. No alternator connection yet so I thought it best to remove the belt to it. I'm not sure how the power brakes will work without the tank installed - by just connecting the vacuum directly to the bellows, but I will do some safe test stops on the driveway first. It may just limit my ability to a slow stop until it builds enough vacuum. I was using the dumb looking 6" air filters on it when I dropped one, it rolled down my driveway into the street and a passing car flattened it before I could get to it. I thought I could just buy a replacement at the local store, but it looks like I'll have to order one. Times, they are a changing....

Edited by Powerflite 2018-03-08 5:35 PM




(57NY Coolant Installed.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-09 10:15 PM (#559565 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got the transmission cooling lines bent up and installed and filled the trans with the extra amount it needed. I also removed the oil pressure line from the motor. Turns out the gauge I had it connected to had stripped threads so it was leaking all over my floors. So I just removed the line and plugged the fitting so that I didn't have to deal with it any more. Then I took the car for a short drive around the block to get it off my driveway and see how it performs. It gave me more trouble than I would have liked because for some reason when I backed down my driveway with the motor turned off, the power steering decided to spew all over the place. Is that normal? Maybe I overfilled it. but it seemed to do fine earlier when I turned the wheels with the motor running. The carbs aren't quite tuned to where they should be yet, but at least they aren't causing blue smoke to come out of the tailpipe any more. I wasn't able to really hit the pedal hard because of worrying about the hood and battery not being well secured, but it did feel quite good when I hit the pedal. The trans works quite well, at least under 35mph, so that's nice. With more tuning and panel assembly, the car should be really fun. But I am going to set it aside for a while until I can take care of the needs of my other cars and get the fenders & door painted & ready to mount back onto it.

The front end is a lot higher than it should be and it's not just because of the missing fenders The motor & trans combo is quite a bit lighter than the original setup so that I currently have less than 1" of gap to the bumper on the upper control arm. But the back end is extra low because of all the stuff I have stashed in the trunk. Once I get the fenders back on and the junk out of the trunk, I will lower the T-bars to adjust it down to where it should be.



(57NYDriives.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-03-09 11:34 PM (#559567 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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that's gonna be a mean new Yorker, gonna make me regret not buying it... I had a deposit on it, had a issue with towing and storage and screwed the pooch

its not that bad though, your trunk drops actually exist. That cowl didnt look fun though.

Gonna get my Dodge finally undercoated and on the body soon... Ive been being careful to get everything perfect and kept getting froze out and work is crushing me now.



Edited by mikes2nd 2018-03-09 11:42 PM
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57burb
Posted 2018-03-09 11:50 PM (#559568 - in reply to #559567)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Car looks great, man! Congrats on yard driving It!

Funny that all the aluminum shed enough wait to make the car sit funny. You're so close. Heck, spend a weekend tossing on some fenders and dialing it in, and you got yourself a car.

I actually love the look of the '66 Charger (?) hub cap in the rear. Even with the whitewall. Reminds me of those subtle, gentleman hot rods. Which this is!
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-14 11:44 AM (#559869 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Mike, you should have bought it, then you could be doing all this work on it instead of me! Just kidding, but this car needs a lot more attention than it first seems. It has very little rust in many places, but more rust than you would expect in others. For instance, the rockers, most of the floors & fenders are nearly perfect, which is great, but the cowl, roof, trunk lid, hood and package tray have/had quite a bit of it. There is also some body damage on the left door and left quarter that need attention. Fortunately, I can replace the hood, trunk lid, package tray and left door pretty easily, but there is more work here than I would like there to be. Nevertheless, it is definitely worth it. I've always wanted a black and white car when I first saw a '56 Belvedere painted that way, and the interior fabrics on this car are really awesome when new. This is definitely my favorite car that I own and I intend to keep it until I can't drive anymore. The '58 DeSoto is my wife's favorite, but it needs even more rust repair.

Danny, I decided to go ahead and paint the fenders, door & hood before I put them on. Otherwise, they would end up being in primer for quite a while until I get the rear body work done. By the time that happens, the front end might need a re-paint anyway. So that's going to take a little longer before I can put it back together. I also need to get a longer shift cable made up for it before I can drive it without using vise grips under the dash. A lot of my other cars need attention now too, so it's a good time to take a break on it. Those '66-'68 mag hubcaps are on there only because they are 14" and take up more space to store off the car. Once I get the fenders back on, I will purchase a set of whitewalls on matching wheels and get the hubcaps as I want them.
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DejaVu
Posted 2018-03-15 2:37 AM (#559926 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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The car looks really good now, thanks for sharing your tips and experiences. I look forward to the next installment!
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