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Regular
Posts: 83
| Hi
As i and many others have been written about, the difficulty of getting our heavy vehicles to stop effective after being mounted with disc brakes. We have many aspects to consider, booster effect, oil pressure, caliper volume, residual move, the master cylinder volume, pedal ratio, etc etc. What we have learned is that everything must work together in the best way.
Regarding this, I would like to mention the new remote tandem cylinder from Wilwood. At last, they've moved outgoing lines on the left side. Proportional valve integral brake switch is another option,,,, many sizes 7 / 8- 1.12 availeble alu or black.....
Another option for you in disc brake thoughts,,, with 392 HEMI engine in there. Must clear the valve covers!
/Michael
(260-14241-BK-lg.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- 260-14241-BK-lg.jpg (138KB - 173 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?item...
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Looks like a nice product, unfortunatly at has the Wilwood-price tag applied as well.
A regular 90s aluminium Mopar master brake cilinder w/2-4 bolt adapter would cost more than half;
http://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html
Especially the longrammed cars can benefit from this kinda setup.
You can pop the container of the aluminium body where you could use readily available remote fluid canisters and (simple) adapters for the fluid lines, like me and GregCon has done.
The only issue might be the proper sizing and diameter of the master brake cylinder, as it needs to be matched to the rest of the brake system.
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