|
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
 
Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey Guys, FYI. If you happen to install lowering blocks on the rear axel, you will have to reset the driveline angle. Found this out the hard way. Also those wedge shaped axel shims (they come in various degrees) need to be installed between the axel pad and the lowering block. Found that out the hard way too, as I didn't think it would make any difference which side of the block it was installed. Also the car has to be level from front to back with the weight on the rear axel when checking the pinion angle. Checking or changing this angle isn't that hard to do, but can get a bit time consuming. Just remember the CAR HAS TO BE LEVEL, or it will give you erronious readings. Good Luck, Jerry |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3575
  
Location: Netherlands | SummitRacing lowering blocks for Dodge pickups have the correct taper and angle correction built in.
Only modification to do is to file the top locating nub to a smaller diameter so it fits in the axle perch.
Takes only a couple of minutes per block.
|
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | Any custom/hot-rod shop that deals with 4x4's should also have shims. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 769
Location: Oley, PA | That is a really good tip. It'll make the U-joints last longer and prevent weird driveline vibrations. Also, and maybe more importantly, it will provide more clearance for the pinion snubber.
The previous owner of my 59 Windsor had installed 4" blocks without the wedges. The result was the pinion snubber would bang against the stop so often that the snubber eventually fell off. After that, the driveshaft started rubbing the floor tunnel.
I got tired of the whole mess, so I removed the blocks and installed the original shackles. It was fun having a low rider for a while, but I'm honestly a lot happier now. |
|
| |
Lowering blocks