392 Dual Quads
Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-23 1:21 PM (#556809)
Subject: 392 Dual Quads



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I am having clearance issues with the power brake & vacuum switch connections on my dual quad 392. The vacuum switch collides with the carburetor. I could install a 90 degree fitting first, but then it gets pretty close to the throttle linkage. Can anyone show me a picture of how the factory did this? Also I would like to remove the spacers under my carbs to give me more hood clearance, but how did the factory get the linkage to work on the AFB's without a spacer? Any pictures of that would be helpful too.



(Vacuum Interference.jpg)



(Vacuum Alternate.jpg)



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57chizler
Posted 2018-01-23 5:17 PM (#556821 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: RE: 392 Dual Quads



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The original fitting was more of a "Y" instead of a T" and the switch is on top.



(300.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-23 6:59 PM (#556826 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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It's weird because it is impossible for me to put the switch on top like that. It seriously collides with the carburetor and is a matter with the OD of the switch vs. the hole position on the intake. Did Weiand move the hole on the intake closer to the carbs?
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-26 4:59 PM (#556972 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: RE: 392 Dual Quads



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Now that I have the carb linkage done, I can say for certain that the short version or the 90 degree version won't work because the vacuum tank hose gets too close to the linkage. In the first picture, the fitting is only screwed in 1/2 a thread and it is already really close to the linkage. The same would be true for trying to put it at 90 degrees. But a 45 degree angle on the whole thing should work. It might look a little screwy though sitting at 45 degrees like that. The second picture shows an all female 3/8 tee that would raise it up higher. this one is able to just barely screw in, but it is contacting the carb body. As it screws in tighter, I would expect it to straighten out more and no longer work. The last picture shows a 1/4 tee with an adapter that raises it up higher to clear the linkage, but with a smaller body to clear the carb better. This one works as long as you rotate the 1/4 - 1/8 adapter to a flat side, next to the carb body. In other words, it works, but is super close too. I am going to try this last method to see how it goes. But it requires a 1/2" hose barb on a 1/4 pipe connection which is harder to get, and must be ordered. Another option is to put the switch at the bottom facing backward, and the hose at a 45 degree angle at top - that is if the 45 degree adapter has enough space to fit next to the carb. I guess that ideally, the main Tee would be vertical with both the hose barb and switch fitting coming out at 45 degees. Could be a fun project if I get access to a mill again in the future.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-26 5:08 PM




(3-8 Male Vacuum Tee.jpg)



(3-8 Female Vacuum Tee.jpg)



(1-4 Male Vacuum Tee.jpg)



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Attachments 3-8 Male Vacuum Tee.jpg (147KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments 3-8 Female Vacuum Tee.jpg (158KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments 1-4 Male Vacuum Tee.jpg (130KB - 273 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-01-26 5:46 PM (#556974 - in reply to #556972)
Subject: RE: 392 Dual Quads



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Not withstanding the need for the vacuum switch (I don't understand that one), my first reaction was you might want to use a "Street ELL" to get out of and away from the manifold.

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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-26 6:13 PM (#556975 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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That's what I was referring to as the 90 degree fitting and it is shown in the second picture on this page. That configuration doesn't work because it puts the assembly too close to the linkage. You could use that with another adapter below it to raise it up, but then it might start hitting the carb body. Nevertheless, I am sure there is perfect height at which that solution would work, but it is just better to use a 45 degree version instead.
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Handygun
Posted 2018-01-28 6:18 PM (#557118 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads


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Could you put in a vac fitting bent or shaped to clear with the rear carb off then install the carb? Were the bellcranks clocked differently on the stock carbs? When I had the weiand I had a pair of wcfb's mocked up on them and noticed that also. Too early for car shows around here to see another one. Not to pester if you have already thought of these things.
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mstrug
Posted 2018-01-28 7:07 PM (#557123 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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This may get you low enough to y off of it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-OD-Hose-Barb-End-Nipple-To-1-4-Npt-Fitt...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anderson-Metals-Brass-Hose-Fitting-90-Degre...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aeroquip-FBM2037-8-AN-x-3-8-NPT-90-Degree-M...

http://www.fittingdeals.com/push-in-fittings-phy-male-banjo-y.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AN-6-6AN-AN06-Banjo-Adapter-To-3-8-NPT-Stai...

http://www.pneuflex-pneumatic.com/push-in-fitting-npt-phf-female-ba...

too big but: http://www.getfast1.com/EDE-8089-Brass-38-Barb-To-58-20-Banjo-Edelb...

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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-28 7:39 PM (#557127 - in reply to #557118)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Handygun - 2018-01-28 3:18 PM

Could you put in a vac fitting bent or shaped to clear with the rear carb off then install the carb? Were the bellcranks clocked differently on the stock carbs? When I had the weiand I had a pair of wcfb's mocked up on them and noticed that also. Too early for car shows around here to see another one. Not to pester if you have already thought of these things.


A vacuum fitting would be a good way to make my own custom setup. Take 1/2" tube and bend it to where I want it, then "Y" off of it by welding an 1/8 pipe fitting to it to mount the switch. But I was hoping not to have to custom job this thing. In the end, that may be the best approach to make it look good if I can make it look like a professional job. I don't know how different the original AFB carbs were. I am still trying to figure out how they were able to mount them without using a spacer under them. Maybe they just cut the bell crank higher up and put the attachment closer to the fulcrum, but that would change the total travel of the accelerator pedal and make it really sensitive to drive. Right now, I am just trying to get this thing to the point where I can try to start it.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-28 7:40 PM
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1960 des
Posted 2018-02-04 10:23 AM (#557488 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: RE: 392 Dual Quads



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Fitting on intake.

Edited by 1960 des 2018-02-04 10:34 AM




(IMG_7822.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-04 2:46 PM (#557507 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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So that switch is super close to the carb even from the factory. But mine won't fit there at all. I guess the Weiand hole is a little closer to the carb. The angled vacuum fitting makes sense too. If I had access to a mill, I could make up something like this that would work. Thanks for the picture Micheal.
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1960 des
Posted 2018-02-07 2:47 PM (#557650 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Same fitting on 57Imp



(arrival049.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-07 9:49 PM (#557669 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Do you have an extra?
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mstrug
Posted 2018-02-08 6:36 AM (#557675 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Check this out:

https://fasparts.com/store/steelmain/fp-ss124.html

They have 45 degree 1/4" npt and bigger/smaller.



(45degree.png)



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Attachments 45degree.png (28KB - 279 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-13 7:49 PM (#558063 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: RE: 392 Dual Quads



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I ended up using a 3/8 pipe 45 degree fitting coupled to a 3/8 stainless (thick wall - schedule 80) pipe with a hole drilled in the side of it for a 1/8 pipe 45 degree fitting to mount the switch. I also tapped 1/4 pipe threads on the inside end of the pipe to mount a 1/2" hose barb fitting. I used the thick wall pipe to give me more meat to create threads for the 1/8 pipe in the side and it had the correct ID for the 1/4 pipe threads at the end. It clears everything well and looks OK, although I would rather have an original version of course. I just need to remove everything so I can thread it into the intake.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-13 9:10 PM




(392VacuumFitting.jpg)



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sonaramic300
Posted 2018-02-17 12:48 AM (#558246 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads


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You have AFB carbs. The other pictures are of WCFB carbs. Look how narrow the WCFB carb is, and how close they keep the linkage to the side of the carb.

How did the factory get the linkage to work without a carb spacer?

Look at the 3rd intake bolt from the rear, right under the linkage. On the factory intake the boss is short. On your intake the boss is just as tall as the others and right in the way of the linkage pushing forward.

Edited by sonaramic300 2018-02-17 12:58 AM
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-04-03 2:04 PM (#561052 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Thanks for pointing out the differences. That really helped me to understand what's going on.

Another question. I am looking to install the glass sediment filters next to the carburetors. Can anyone tell me which is the proper casting number on the top of those things? I assume they are the Carter versions and not AC, correct?
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1960 des
Posted 2018-07-17 6:14 PM (#566760 - in reply to #561052)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Carter 2146397, and you use the short glass & sediment.



(Disassembly.jpg)



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Attachments Disassembly.jpg (43KB - 224 downloads)
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Mopar1
Posted 2018-07-18 10:53 AM (#566797 - in reply to #566760)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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I suspect w/o the carb spacers you'd have carb heating up problems.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-07-18 4:54 PM (#566819 - in reply to #556809)
Subject: Re: 392 Dual Quads



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Thanks Michael, I picked up a sediment bowl from a '57 Saratoga, and it used the same casting number & bowl.

I wouldn't expect to have heat soak issues. The aluminum heads have no heat cross-over, so I would expect them to run cooler.....even if they conduct heat better than the iron.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-07-18 4:56 PM
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