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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | Anyone here please help me out?
The MOOG ball joint K-778 comes with only a big rubber boot and this will let stud and its cotter pin slot go deeper into the spindle ca 8mm
The manual says in the figure that the ball joint is sealed with two seal and a retainer and this keeps the cotter pin slot perfect in level with the castle nut
Anyone who has encountered this and solved it safely. Is it only just an adjustment of the camber bolts, but what about the torque of the stud
Thanks, Johan |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13042
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I know that some ball joint instructions informs that a washer (normally supplied) must be mounted in certain applications, but 8mm seems somewhat too much, typically, those washers are like 1/8"
I have the MOOG K-778 ball joints as spares, but the ones mounted are NOS aftermarket ones, so I have never mounted any of the K-778's |
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | Hi, this ball joint as shown on the pic should be the problem solver and if anyone has one or two laying on the shelf I would happy to buy them
Johan
(Ball Joint with seals and retainer.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- Ball Joint with seals and retainer.jpg (140KB - 222 downloads)
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13042
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Can you see the number on the box? Is it 712 or 272 |
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | Sven, I can´t either figure out what it reads, pic from the web and that ball joint has been sold.
But maybe as 1960fury has mentioned in an another thread that the steering knuckle is worn-out
and also I´ll test to just drop the old ball joint into the steering knuckle and do same with the new k778
and measure the length of the studs down under |
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | This makes quite a difference between the OE and a brand new MOOG K778. both tourqued accordingly to the manual.
Is this acceptable and secure.
BTW. I think one lesson I´ve learned is there´s no need to demount the ball joint from the contol arm when replacing the control arm bushings
unless the ball joint is shot
(BALL JOINT OE.jpg)
(BALL JOINT MOOG 778.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- BALL JOINT OE.jpg (96KB - 182 downloads) BALL JOINT MOOG 778.jpg (137KB - 191 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| i only had to use a single washer on my 57 dodge.
I think were talking Chrysler/Desoto though here right?
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | mikes2nd - 2018-03-20 9:57 PM
i only had to use a single washer on my 57 dodge.
I think were talking Chrysler/Desoto though here right?
Yes it´s my troublesome trials on my New Yorker ´61 |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7385
Location: northern germany | the large cars imp/126"wb chryslers used different balljoints than the smaller cars. iirc the upper ball joints for dodges/plymouth are moog #772, the bigger cars moog#778. |
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | 1960fury - 2018-03-21 12:03 AM
the large cars imp/126"wb chryslers used different balljoints than the smaller cars. iirc the upper ball joints for dodges/plymouth are moog #772, the bigger cars moog#778.
I´ve talked to MOOG, and asked them about what numbers there are stamped on their upper ball joint K778 and they say:
- On the cover plate it is 39
- On bottom end of the tapered stud it is 790
The MOOG said that the tapered stud measures in inches 0.791 and 0.673
The stamped numbers 39 and 790 also shows on my installed K778, though my stud plunges deeper as shown in the above pic.
What do you, anyone, think. Is it safe to drive whith that small gap between the steering knuckle and the ball joint?
Thanks, Johan
Edited by fravizo 2018-03-21 12:41 PM
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | I´ve just bought this Upper Ball Joint Separator from Mancini Racing, hope it will fit the N.Y. ´61
http://www.manciniracing.com/upbajostre1.html
In idle mode at the moment waiting for that piece to arrive and hopefully get the BJ out and measure the
daimeter of the holes in the steering knuckle, especially the lower one. And also compare the OE with the K778
see if there´s a difference when just dropping them into the steering knuckle. I´ll let you know when it´s done.
Johan |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13042
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That's the correct type of tool - I have made several versions to different cars.
Works both for upper and lower ball joint, just loosen one nut a Little, apply some force and the ball joint will pop out of seat. Tighten the nut with the fingers, loosen the other nut a Little and repeat the proceedure and the knuckle is free. |
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | wizard - 2018-03-22 9:36 PM
That's the correct type of tool - I have made several versions to different cars.
Works both for upper and lower ball joint, just loosen one nut a Little, apply some force and the ball joint will pop out of seat. Tighten the nut with the fingers, loosen the other nut a Little and repeat the proceedure and the knuckle is free.
Good to hear and a sigh of relief, a step in the right direction so far as to get the proper tool.
Thanks, Johan
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Regular
Posts: 68
Location: Stockholm Sweden | Maybe obvious to you but anyway, from what I now learned, if you wanna replace the upper control arm bushings, and when your´re at it and thinking of replacing the upper ball joint as well, just loosen the stud nut and then check firmness of the ball joint stud after you have it lifted out of the spindle. I my case I unsrewed the ball joint and replaced it with MOOG K778, (should fit full size New Yorker) its stud went too deep as shown above, so I put back the oe one, in good firm condition, with a perfect fit. I used the Moogs´rubber boots to cover the ball joint.
Johan
Edited by fravizo 2018-04-27 6:29 PM
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