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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Guy's
I'm about to bolt my motor & trans together & noticed that there are no locating dowels in the block is this normal ?
There are also no holes in the bellhousing for locating dowels this seems odd to me is it ?
Here are a few pic's of the rear of my motor & the bellhousing is this the correct bellhousing for a 1960 318 Poly with CI trans ?
The bellhousing is made of alloy if that helps
Thanks in advance
Cheers Gra
(bell1 (Medium).jpg)
(bell2 (Medium).jpg)
(block (Medium).jpg)
Attachments ---------------- bell1 (Medium).jpg (141KB - 148 downloads) bell2 (Medium).jpg (151KB - 141 downloads) block (Medium).jpg (66KB - 127 downloads)
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | It's together
(20180330_115144 (Medium).jpg)
(20180330_140126_resized (Small).jpg)
Attachments ---------------- 20180330_115144 (Medium).jpg (209KB - 146 downloads) 20180330_140126_resized (Small).jpg (57KB - 137 downloads)
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 977
Location: Sydney, Australia | I think, 57chizler (John) is the resident wiz on these boxes... Not sure if he's been on or just stays logged in. He might see this if having a look around the forum.
Edited by matte 2018-03-30 3:20 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Matte,
It will be in the car in about an hour
Cheers Gra |
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Veteran
Posts: 292
Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | I have never seen a bell housing like this, similar to 59 60 318. Is it possible that it is a slant six truck bell? |
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Expert
Posts: 3777
Location: NorCal | Installing a transmission the correct way involves dialing the bore of the bellhousing to make sure it's centered on the converter. The parts might go together without this step but misalignment could cause early failure of the trans.
The FSM is your friend here. |
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Ricky
It is the bell housing that was in the car when I got it
it bolts up but no locating dowels. My car has had an engine swap at sometime & I can see
the stain were the old motor lined up the current motor is a later model with early crank.
A slant 6 bell housing would have the starter location up higher. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | As I remember back in the late 50's , predominately in the Ply line they used that flat adapter plate. Seems to me it could be used with either the small Ply V8's or the flat 6's. I remember using that flat adapter plate, but don't remember anymore ( that was 50 some yrs ago ) just what I was doing or why I used it. There should be an alignment dowel from the plate to the block and an alignment dowel from the plate to the trans bell housing. As 57chizler said that alignment is critical. Seems to me .002 - .003 runout is acceptical. It's a PITA doing it, but necessary. Jerry |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | The locating dowels on my 1960 Plymouth 318 bell housing & block are just below and inbound from the bolt holes at 3 and 9 o'clock. Otherwise, the bell looks right (single piece bell & starter plate, 3 bolt starter and so on). |
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Guy's
I think my main problem is I have the original trans & bell housing but the motor has been swapped at some stage & they used a later model
poly which is different see previous pic & they removed the dowels If you look close at the pic of the bell housing you can see the stain from the original motor
which would of had dowels & lined up.
Probably the reason why when I got it it wasn't working...It's now my job to sort it out |
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | 57chizler - 2018-04-01 8:35 AM
Installing a transmission the correct way involves dialing the bore of the bellhousing to make sure it's centered on the converter. The parts might go together without this step but misalignment could cause early failure of the trans.
The FSM is your friend here.
Yes I agree John I have had an alignment problem with another car years ago it caused the front bearing to fail &
cracked the weld on the pump drive on the converter. The biggest problem here in Oz nobody seems to know anything about
aligning the trans & motor.
This is my biggest concern I don't want to have to do it again.
Thanks Graham |
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Veteran
Posts: 292
Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | That's the answer, early A engines and late A engines have different dowel pin locations. From your post. I think my main problem is I have the original trans & bell housing but the motor has been swapped at some stage & they used a later model
poly which is different see previous pic & they removed the dowels If you look close at the pic of the bell housing you can see the stain from the original motor
which would of had dowels & lined up |
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA |
Yeah some one over there in the US did the swap back in the 80's from what I was told probably the reason it was off the road
for 25 years. My problem is the motor should have an all alloy trans unless I can find a early poly block & swap it I'm stuck with what I've got.
I will start my search for a bell housing to suit if they exist.
I am going to more than likely just see what happens once it is ready to fire up as poly's are not very common here in Oz.
If all else fails I will have to go either BB or late model LA motor & trans not keen on that I wanted to keep it basically standard |
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Veteran
Posts: 292
Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | Here is an other possible problem/problems. How many bolt holes are in your crankshaft flange, and are they threaded? Don't give up. I think there might be a solution.
Edited by RICKYMOPAR 2018-04-01 5:10 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | It had all been together and running once Rick, so it will go again
I do wonder about the alignment as that could be the reason that the pump sleeve died
Poly blocks can be had, but are hard to find, except, I have 2 here, well 3 actually, but 1 has a crack in it
Only thing is, I havnt checked them to make sure they are ok and are 60 era blocks not 62/3 blocks when they changed
Personally, I would probably just give it a try and worry about it if it breaks
All that time and money and you still havnt got to drive it
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Veteran
Posts: 292
Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | I am wondering if you dial in the bell housing, secure the position and using machinist centering punch through the new block locating pin holes, to your bell housing. Then machine the bell housing to accept the locating pins in the now needed location. We can still get front pump sleeves, sold my last NOS torque convertors last November.
Edited by RICKYMOPAR 2018-04-01 9:53 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | 8 holes not threaded |
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | RICKYMOPAR - 2018-04-02 1:36 PM
I am wondering if you dial in the bell housing, secure the position and using machinist centering punch through the new block locating pin holes, to your bell housing. Then machine the bell housing to accept the locating pins in the now needed location. We can still get front pump sleeves, sold my last NOS torque convertors last November.
this is basically what I have done except I haven't drill any dowel holes as I don't know if it is in line. Once I fire it up & all is either working ok I'll drill some locating holes or if it fails......lets not talk about that. |
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Veteran
Posts: 172
Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | ttotired - 2018-04-02 10:28 AM
It had all been together and running once Rick, so it will go again
I do wonder about the alignment as that could be the reason that the pump sleeve died
Poly blocks can be had, but are hard to find, except, I have 2 here, well 3 actually, but 1 has a crack in it
Only thing is, I havnt checked them to make sure they are ok and are 60 era blocks not 62/3 blocks when they changed
Personally, I would probably just give it a try and worry about it if it breaks
All that time and money and you still havnt got to drive it
yes the motor ran Mick but I never seen it drive only told buy the seller he drove it. I don't know how after pulling it out & finding
the pump drive sleeve not engaged (see previous posts in this thread for pic's) unless they towed it to get the rear pump working.
either way it's my job to get it back on the road cruising.
If you want to spend countless amounts of $$$ & hours working on a car go drag racing...this is easier & I do have my drag car
driveline sitting here a 500+HP stroked 360 will get the old girl haulin one way or another I will be hitting the streets soon with
The Bitch
Edited by OzFury 2018-04-02 12:22 AM
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