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Elite Veteran
Posts: 689
Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | cleaning stainless parts, someone on forum mentioned vinegar to water ratio? Can someone tell me the ratio or any other tips to clean stainless by hand when the parts are off the car?
thank you
Jerry Whitfield
winston salem NC
Edited by jerrybev 2018-05-20 7:33 AM
(1956 plymouth RF xxxsmall.jpg)
(1956 plymouth interior xxxsmall.jpg)
(LR xxxsmall 1956 wagon.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- 1956 plymouth RF xxxsmall.jpg (216KB - 126 downloads) 1956 plymouth interior xxxsmall.jpg (142KB - 134 downloads) LR xxxsmall 1956 wagon.jpg (167KB - 121 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 3155
Location: NY & VT | nice car -wrong place to post in forum ? How about "Body, Glass, Interior and Trim".
Edited by firedome 2018-05-20 12:23 PM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13049
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Thread moved to the correct sub-forum |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| its stainless, go nuts I mean rubbing alcohol. Heck paint stripper...
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Expert
Posts: 2519
Location: central Illinois | Anyone used vinegar to remove rust from steel or cast iron?
A friend of mine who now works in a newly famous restoration shop uses molasses. He had a large horse trough with his molasses concoction and would soak fenders and in a week or two all traces of rust were gone. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| Vinegar can harm the product. You can polish stainless, sand with 1500 and polish.
Get some rust removal if you want to soak rust off, Evapo rust you can get for 20$ a bottle at harbor freight.
No mold to deal with, no stench or serious mess. |
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| If you're asking about brightening the stainless (as it usually darkens over time) you can use an acid (vinegar). I have used 5-6% phosphoric (probably around the same percentage in a can of Coca-Cola) to do what you are asking but you can use vinegar as well. Most consumable vinegar is around 4-5% acetic acid, I would start with a 50/50 mix vinegar to water and if you're not getting the results you're looking for, increase the amount of vinegar. I will also say this isn't something you want to let pieces soak in, it will harden the stainless and make it too thin in spots (not an issue if your trim is mint but none of us know what the future holds, and if you will need to rework it in the future) that you won't be able to pick and file.
I have never found it necessary to do this to this to trim, but it is a simple way to "brighten" stainless. This process also works on sill plates. After polishing, do a quick wipe with some form of vinegar to lighten any dull spots from corrosion or road salt. Makes the finish almost identical to chrome. |
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| @b5rt
Vinegar is great on steel, but it needs to be neutralized fairly soon after using baking soda or washing soda. Even after wiping away, it will flash rust fairly soon. If you're prepping for paint I wouldn't hesitate to use anything but phosphoric for a final wipe down, as it phosphates the metal and makes it very resistant to rusting back. But, for getting the heavy work done, phosphoric is expensive, and vinegar gets the job done. Though I haven't tried it on cast iron, but I have heard mixed results from friends of mine. It has the ability to pit cast iron, but it will remove the rust. Any metal left in any acid too long will dissolve so be sure to keep an eye on it. Molasses is a great one too if you have the space and/or a decent pressure washer to hose it off afterwards. It doesn't work as quickly as vinegar, or even phosphoric, but there's less stress and worry involved. I would stay away from HCL (Muriatic) at all costs, however. You can watch it dissolve the rust before your eyes, but it will flash rust with a vengeance. The mere fumes from the stuff will rust anything within 25 feet with a vengeance. Take it from someone who learned the hard way. |
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