Posted 2018-12-04 10:44 AM (#574613 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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The SSBC kit we used had four bolt mounting pad on the master. If it bolts up you'll have to look at pushrod engagement, brake line plumbing, and if your master will actually fit under the bellows. As well as if you can fill the reservoir with fluid.
Prices in Australia are crazy. Shipping prices alone are crazy!!!!
Posted 2018-12-04 4:14 PM (#574640 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Brake line plumbing Im ok with, pushrod, I can make or modify to work and its supposed to be the 4 bolt that should bolt up.
Its the clearance, whether it fits under the booster and if not, what the alternative.
Hoping someone has done this with this style booster.
The other thing Im not sure about is the residual pressure valve required for the drums.
Is this already built into the master or do I need a separate inline one for the rear?
Posted 2018-12-04 4:33 PM (#574641 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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It should be included in the kit Marc, it's the black gadget with the knob in the lower right of the photo you posted.
To me, the included m/c looks to be lower than the oem, so I Think you're good….
Posted 2018-12-04 4:37 PM (#574642 - in reply to #574641) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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wizard - 2018-12-05 7:33 AM
It should be included in the kit Marc, it's the black gadget with the knob in the lower right of the photo you posted.
To me, the included m/c looks to be lower than the oem, so I Think you're good….
I hope so, would be fantastic if its a direct bolt on :-)
So the proportioning valve is also the residual valve?
Posted 2018-12-04 6:56 PM (#574656 - in reply to #574593) Subject: RE: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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No, that master will not fit under your booster. If you want a dual port master that will fit, you need one of those flat-cap variety from the late-'60's. The master shown is for a 70's Dart and won't fit. But even the flat-cap master is a pain, so this is what I do instead.
Posted 2018-12-04 6:58 PM (#574657 - in reply to #574640) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2018-12-04 4:14 PM
Brake line plumbing Im ok with, pushrod, I can make or modify to work and its supposed to be the 4 bolt that should bolt up.
Its the clearance, whether it fits under the booster and if not, what the alternative.
Hoping someone has done this with this style booster.
The other thing Im not sure about is the residual pressure valve required for the drums.
Is this already built into the master or do I need a separate inline one for the rear?
Wilwood sells a cheap residual valve that's compact if you need one. Street Rods use them all the time too. Try Ebay if you go that route. Your shipping rates are what scare me!!!
Posted 2018-12-04 7:02 PM (#574659 - in reply to #574656) Subject: RE: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Powerflite - 2018-12-04 6:56 PM
No, that master will not fit under your booster. If you want a dual port master that will fit, you need one of those flat-cap variety from the mid-'60's. The master shown is for a 70's Dart and won't fit. But even the flat-cap master is a pain, so this is what I do instead.
Hey!!! You like that dual remote billet reservoir ?? I think I have the same one in my Coupe!!!!
I was told if the reservoir itself is above the calipers or wheel cylinders that no residual valve is needed, even if the actual master is lower, below the floor etc...?
Posted 2018-12-04 7:04 PM (#574661 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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I like that brake setup Powerflite!!! Awesome way to take the pain out of filling the brake reservoir!!!! I once had a PB brake bellows, so I'm impressed!!
Posted 2018-12-04 7:37 PM (#574664 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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You can also pull that astrodome out and install new gauges. Will it work just as well, or maybe slightly better? Probably. But it will ruin the fun of owning a '60 Chrysler IMO.
Posted 2018-12-04 7:47 PM (#574667 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Maybe so, but at least its a Mopar part.
Im not keen on using metric imperial mix and match.
I may design and make an extension housing instead to use the supplied master cylinder and bring it out from the firewall to clear the original booster.
This might be the simplest way to fix this if it doesnt interfere with anything else.
Posted 2018-12-05 10:37 PM (#574742 - in reply to #574740) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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hemidenis - 2018-12-05 9:54 PM
with the cost senseless cost to rebuild the oval PB unit, I think getting something more modern maybe the best solution.
Any idea what this PB Booster is from? It's on a 55 Dodge Custom Royal (not mine) that had a Scare Bird front Disc conversion done. I know that changing the spark plugs is going to be a B-I-T-C-H.
Posted 2018-12-06 4:51 AM (#574757 - in reply to #574742) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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56D500boy - 2018-12-05 10:37 PM
hemidenis - 2018-12-05 9:54 PM
with the cost senseless cost to rebuild the oval PB unit, I think getting something more modern maybe the best solution.
Any idea what this PB Booster is from? It's on a 55 Dodge Custom Royal (not mine) that had a Scare Bird front Disc conversion done. I know that changing the spark plugs is going to be a B-I-T-C-H.
LOL
I can tell you exactly. That's the car Paul built. It's not a Scarebird kit either I don't think. I'll ask him again when I see him exactly what he used, but the car stopped well.
Posted 2018-12-08 5:04 PM (#574894 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Okee doke.
Front disc brake conversion is an ECI conversion kit.
Bracket and linkage from an A body MoPar.
Booster is a 1967 B body booster.
Master is a 1969 B body disc brake master.
He added the bracket from the firewall to the back of the top of the booster to try to reduce firewall flex. Made it himself.
Posted 2018-12-08 5:17 PM (#574895 - in reply to #574894) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-08 5:04 PM
Okee doke.
Front disc brake conversion is an ECI conversion kit.
Thanks. I had NOT heard of ECI or their conversions. Looks like they only do 11" drum conversions for the 55-56 Dodge/Plymouths. Won't work for me but thanks for the info.
Posted 2018-12-08 6:13 PM (#574899 - in reply to #574898) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-08 6:00 PM
Paul has used Scarebird before but he didn't like the brackets on the kits he bought from them, so he tried ECI.
Good to know. Neither Scarebird or ECI seems to have a bracket for the four bolt 55-56 Chrysler Windsor, etc. spindles which my 56 Dodge D500 has.
No problem. *IF* I abandon my D500 12 x 2.5 drums, I can get 4 four bolt Chrysler brackets, etc. from Roger at AAJ in Portland OR. I just wanted to see if there were alternatives.
Posted 2018-12-08 9:22 PM (#574905 - in reply to #574898) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-08 3:00 PM
Paul has used Scarebird before but he didn't like the brackets on the kits he bought from them, so he tried ECI.
What didn't he like about the brackets? The Scarebird kit is great for '57-up because it gets you 12" rotors (used with 15" wheels). I run them on all my cars and they work great.
Posted 2018-12-08 10:11 PM (#574908 - in reply to #574905) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Powerflite - 2018-12-08 9:22 PM
CrAzYMoPaRGuY - 2018-12-08 3:00 PM
Paul has used Scarebird before but he didn't like the brackets on the kits he bought from them, so he tried ECI.
What didn't he like about the brackets? The Scarebird kit is great for '57-up because it gets you 12" rotors (used with 15" wheels). I run them on all my cars and they work great.
The brackets he didn't like were on GM applications. I saw one of his Cadillacs, and the brackets were not very sturdy at all. This was a few years back, two Caddys. I have nooooo idea where he got the idea of ECI though. Never heard of them!!!
Posted 2018-12-10 2:26 PM (#575003 - in reply to #574697) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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mikes2nd - 2018-12-05 11:46 AM
Rofl F that monstrosity... no way would that thing fit next to my engine.
Im going the powerflite setup.
1coolbanana - 2018-12-04 7:32 PM
Oh boy.....can-o-worms
I was thinking this might be a simpler bolt on solution, 65-74 B&E-body Brake Booster Master Cylinder?
ROFLx2 From what I heard there is now an updated version that extends thru the engine bay and the MC bolts to the grille, so you can service it from the outside
Posted 2018-12-11 6:59 PM (#575073 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Going to try something different. Will make and extension housing (cad image below) for the supplied master cylinder so that it is just forward of the booster but in the original location on the firewall.
This will clear the lid and provide easy access to the master.
Ill make the housing and hopefully only need an extended pushrod. This will keep most things OE.
Posted 2018-12-13 2:41 PM (#575178 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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I agree. That statement is specifically about using a residual valve with a disc brake system. If you have your master lower than your discs, then you should use a residual valve with discs. But regardless of where the master is with respect to the drum brakes, a residual valve should be used with them.
Also, beware that the wilwood residual valves will leak if you don't tighten the fittings on them. They seem like they are tight out of the box, but they aren't tight enough. Just a heads up for you.
Posted 2018-12-13 2:54 PM (#575179 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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That response from SSBC was specifically to the question "do I need to use a residual valve on the rear circuit when using your front kit and keeping the drums on the rear"
Anyway, I figured it cant hurt to have one and was readily available :-)
Posted 2018-12-13 3:37 PM (#575183 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Yes, it is a known phenomena that fluid bleeds back into the MC even if the MC is located higher than the rest of the brake system. For what reasons ever, maybe vibration? I first didn't use residual valves in my car (disc/disc) but had a couple of very scary moments after prolonged driving without braking followed by sudden brake situations!
Posted 2018-12-13 5:52 PM (#575193 - in reply to #575178) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Powerflite - 2018-12-14 5:41 AM
Also, beware that the wilwood residual valves will leak if you don't tighten the fittings on them. They seem like they are tight out of the box, but they aren't tight enough. Just a heads up for you.
It didnt come with fittings, they are a tapered thread (like an NPTT) and need an additional tapered thread adaptor fitting to seal properly. The place that sold it to me supplied me the correct fitting to go with it.
Posted 2018-12-13 10:29 PM (#575205 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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I posted this in the wrong thread instead of here.
Marc Everard, you really have no much idea how many hours and hundred of threads took the AJJ brakes discussion and pretty much everybody had a different result. Guys installing the exactly same "working parts combination set up" in the same car and model year, didn't work for others, and so on...
They are different calipers, it is one for 15" rim out of a Dodge Durango truck that I think is going to work, but again changing 5 rims and tires could be a fortune in Australia. Look for double piston calipers in 14" rim.
Posted 2018-12-13 11:27 PM (#575209 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Denis
Im sorry, but I have no clue what you are trying to say?
Are you saying, "Work it out for yourself perhaps, as everybody gets a different result??"
I already have all the parts I require to do the SSBC 4 piston calipers (same as the video) and 11.25" rotor front brake conversion and what I didnt have, Ive made, as noted in this thread (except a new push rod).
Just waiting on a decent 2 stage flaring tool to arrive so I can make new lines properly and route them the way I want and get going on the conversion..
It works with my original 14" wheels but Im using bigger wheels anyway so not really an issue.
Ive seen that video a few times, kind of what made me think its not so hard and to have a go myself.
Its the booster and master which are more the issue in my case.
Ive done a ton of research and asked the clever and experienced people here for their opinions and thoughts for which Im very grateful for.
I think I am now on the right track and have (I hope) all that I need to get this job done correctly the first time, wishful thinking maybe, we will see I guess, but Ill have a go.
Posted 2018-12-14 9:26 PM (#575249 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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meaning that they are dozen if not hundred of questions regarding why the AJJ brake does not work or the wheels won't lock. The reason is pretty simple, but some people refuse to believe the facts.
I'm very disappointed of SSBC , they clearly stated that everything is made in the USA. I just posted the question on their facebook page but questions are edited by them..
However, we are just a few people who care about USA made parts, when I posted a new Fel-pro gasket set with several China parts on these forums, I had only people yelling at me on that matter. "Get over it" attitude in general..
Posted 2018-12-14 9:47 PM (#575251 - in reply to #575249) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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hemidenis - 2018-12-15 12:26 PM
meaning that they are dozen if not hundred of questions regarding why the AJJ brake does not work or the wheels won't lock. The reason is pretty simple, but some people refuse to believe the facts.
when I posted a new Fel-pro gasket set with several China parts on these forums, I had only people yelling at me on that matter. "Get over it" attitude in general..
Ahhh, ok.
I dismissed using their kits when they would not elaborate on any question I asked them and would not give me any straight answers.
Im happy I got the SSBC kit instead for such a good price (relatively)
Would have preferred Wilwood but the expense is insane.
Just terribly disappointing to see the China stamp, not just because its made in China but because its advertised as "made in America".
Posted 2018-12-15 4:50 AM (#575262 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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China doesn't necessary mean that the parts are crap, they have really good craftsmen there, BUT - there's a high possibility that the parts are crap, mainly because the buyer didn't want to pay the price for good quality (that would most probably resulted in a price so high that the parts could have been produced in USA).
I do still believe that parts supplier with a high quality standard (for instance Fel-Pro) requests a high quality from a Chinese sub-supplier.
Recently bough some Raybestos wheel cylinders for a friend (made in China) - I demounted them and checked everything and found absolutely nothing to complain about - the cylinders had a snug fit and the lined up with the bolt holes.
About vented discs, we have noticed several cases of rusted out "vanes" that have resulted in disc separation, especially on heavy cars (Caddy for instance). Mind that those cars have been driven during the winter season with salt slush.
Posted 2018-12-15 6:35 AM (#575264 - in reply to #575262) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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wizard - 2018-12-15 4:50 AM
About vented discs, we have noticed several cases of rusted out "vanes" that have resulted in disc separation, especially on heavy cars (Caddy for instance). Mind that those cars have been driven during the winter season with salt slush.
Wilwood has coated/galvanized vanes. Can't believe people are making shortcuts and are cheap when it comes to the braking system. So, how much more expensive are the American-made Wilwood parts?
makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway.
I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago.
I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China.
Posted 2018-12-15 5:07 PM (#575285 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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For comparison, the Scarebird kit cssts me less than $400 with all the fab work done, has the same size rotors as the Wilwood, stops very well, but is heavier. I'm happy with it. I don't really notice the weight, I'm not canyon carving with the car anyway and I haven't had any issues with uneven brake wear either.
Posted 2018-12-15 5:10 PM (#575286 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Part of my problem was that Wilwood did not reply to any of my emails regarding purchasing and shipping.
Very unhelpful actually, as were most of their resellers.
Even Wilwood resellers her in Australia were unhelpful and not interested in selling quoted parts, just kits and since there is no kit listed, they didnt want to know as it may have required some mental effort which is just too much to ask!
The $850 USD in the parts you quoted will quickly turn into $2500 AU with shipping and tax and requires a lot more work, (and wheels and tyres) some of which may not be that easy to do or have done with what I have access to.
I understand you say "simple fabrication" required, but there are no details of what that means.
I dont want to lose the ability to use my standard wheels either.
For $1500 AU I got the SSBC with 4 piston fixed calipers and everything I needed (I think) only with the extension housing and push rod that I need to make but that was only because of my booster.
I didnt have to pay taxes as although they were new, were classed as used car parts from a private seller, and I wasnt charged any tax.
Yes, Wilwood would be much nicer to have.
Yes, they may work a lot better.
Yes, they give you much more cred.
Yes, Id like to have them.
Yes, they look cool.
But a few unknowns and extra expense of the Wilwood put them out of the picture as were ALL of the kits if I had to pay full retail.
Could not afford to pay full retail for any of the kits.
Hence why I ended up with SSBC as an "opportunistic" purchase at a cheap price with the ability to use my standard wheels.
Maybe not the best of the bunch, but in the top two I reckon.
Weight is no issue to me as shes a cruiser anyway.
See how it pans out soon I guess.
Thanks for all your advice and help, its really appreciated and has helped a lot.
Posted 2018-12-15 6:28 PM (#575290 - in reply to #575286) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 5:10 PM
I understand you say "simple fabrication" required, but there are no details of what that means.
It is only the caliper bracket. All the rest, except a simple pushrod mod/plumbing, that you will have to do anyway, bolts on. The bracket is only a flat piece of aluminum or steel, if you don't care about unsprung weight.
The aluminum rotor hats with the part # I listed in another thread are like made for 57+ FL cars. Just measure and cut and drill some holes into a flat piece of metal, that bolts directly to the FL spindle and positions the calipers perfectly.
Another plus, you keep your OE hubs. One drawback is the Wilwood rotor hats, that slip over the OE hubs, move your wheels 1/4" out per side, but very likely the SSBC hub/rotor assy change the suspension geometry more that 1/4".
Another minus I have to mention is, to bleed the wheel cylinders you have to pull the wheels.
Posted 2018-12-15 6:35 PM (#575292 - in reply to #575286) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 5:10 PM
The $850 USD in the parts you quoted will quickly turn into $2500 AU with shipping and tax
Speedway has most of the parts, shipping to Germany they quoted $56 early this year. So if the parts and shipping are around $900, how much tax do you have to pay in Australia?!
Posted 2018-12-15 7:38 PM (#575294 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Marc, only people who live overseas know the shipping cost and sometimes customs cost. Please keep us posted of the solution. If i install disc brakes is going to be the one you have for the simple reason of rims swap cost.
China can make good things, but it also put formaldehyde in flooring which is a cancerous substance, Styrofoam in dogs food as a filler, lead paint in kids toys, the car parts parts disintegrate in a few moths and so on.
How i supposed to know if their parts are good?
If my valve seals in My fel-pro kit failed in two moths who is going to replace them? A good piece of rubber and a crap one looks identical, so I'm not trusting my brakes to them. At least not the piston or rubber components.
Posted 2018-12-15 7:50 PM (#575295 - in reply to #575292) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1960fury - 2018-12-16 9:35 AM
1coolbanana - 2018-12-15 5:10 PM
The $850 USD in the parts you quoted will quickly turn into $2500 AU with shipping and tax
Speedway has most of the parts, shipping to Germany they quoted $56 early this year. So if the parts and shipping are around $900, how much tax do you have to pay in Australia?!
I was quoted $1100 USD for shipping from US to AU.
Tax is 10% but thats on the total including shipping.
Thats why I jumped at the SSBC for $1100 USD landed (about $1500)
I organised the shipping from here and the best I could get was about $750 AUD
Posted 2018-12-16 4:17 PM (#575342 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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In Argentina the tax is 50%, yes five zero. That is why people do not deal with FL cars that much down there. Go and figure why I don't want to send something over that I can't use. Germany has similar crazy customs laws.
Your brake set up will cost me $3000.00 but the time it is siting on my work bench.
Posted 2018-12-18 3:11 AM (#575417 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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In case anyone is interested..... More SSBC disappointment.
After the correspondence with SSBC and their statement about not needing a residual, I bought a Wilwood anyway as it seemed quite an important ommission (thanks Syd). On closer inspection of the master cylinder port, guess what??? There is a crude residual valve fitted in the rear circuit! They obviously arent sure what they are selling you!
I have removed it and will use the external Wilwood that I bought.
That would be far easier to remove if I decide to fit a disc rear as well.
I was also really not impressed with the cheapo, no name bearings that just look rubbish.
I should have realised this straight away when you see bearings all thrown into a bag and not sealed and boxed separately.
When I checked these a little more closely, are very poor quality with many small dents and marks, just poorly made, even the heat treatment is still evident in places where the grinding of the races has not been cleaned up.
I can honestly say, I would not use these bearing on a trailer much less my car, they would not last long at all.
I replaced the lot with quality Japanese bearings and seals today.
Thankfully, even the best quality bearings are cheap (standar Ford bearings and seals BTW)
And the disc rotors are 65-67 Mustang
So far, its really not turning out to be the "American Made Quality" I was hoping (and paying) for with a few critical parts less than acceptable and made in China!!
Although it will be when Im finished but at extra expense.
Posted 2018-12-18 6:43 PM (#575462 - in reply to #575417) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2018-12-18 12:11 AM
...On closer inspection of the master cylinder port, guess what??? There is a crude residual valve fitted in the rear circuit! They obviously arent sure what they are selling you!
I have removed it and will use the external Wilwood that I bought.
That would be far easier to remove if I decide to fit a disc rear as well.
I disagree with that statement. Removing the valve fitted in the master doesn't require any changes to your lines. Removing the external version is a lot more trouble.
Posted 2018-12-24 3:16 PM (#575754 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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I've made a such an adapter for my own discbrake conversion.
Started out using the '64 spindle and later made one for the earlier drumbrake spindles.
Based on the lasercut-drawing I made at the time, these should be the center-to-center bolt distances;
Horizontally the boltspacing is about 78,392 mm
Vertically the boltspacing is 69,697 mm
Posted 2018-12-24 4:41 PM (#575756 - in reply to #575716) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2018-12-23 10:35 PMAs it turns out, the kit I bought is an A154 and not A154-4 as advertised by the seller.
The kit is for 65-70 C body.
Now what
Ive emailed SSBC to ask if I can buy the balance of parts from the A154-4 kit to make this kit work.
Not overly optimistic of a reply. Does anyone know how long they are closed for the holidays, cant see anything on their website?. Would the same adapter plate with the correct 4 mounting holes work?
I wonder how close your 60 New Yorker spindle bolt spacing is to my 56 Windsor brakes on my 56 Dodge D500? If identical, AAJ has brackets that work with either 11" or 11.75" rotors.
Posted 2018-12-27 12:32 AM (#575864 - in reply to #575754) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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BigBlockMopar - 2018-12-25 6:16 AM
I've made a such an adapter for my own discbrake conversion.
Started out using the '64 spindle and later made one for the earlier drumbrake spindles.
Based on the lasercut-drawing I made at the time, these should be the center-to-center bolt distances;
Horizontally the boltspacing is about 78,392 mm
Vertically the boltspacing is 69,697 mm
Thank you so much, thats extremely helpful
So thats about 3 1/16 X 2 3/4
From that dimension there is not enough metal to re-drill and tap the plates Ive got.
Im wondering if I can rotate the plates to get in a location to redrill and tap the holes.
Not sure of where it will relocate the caliper too and if there will be clearance.
Posted 2018-12-27 9:37 AM (#575868 - in reply to #574593) Subject: RE: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle.
Posted 2018-12-27 9:54 AM (#575869 - in reply to #575868) Subject: RE: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-26 3:37 PM
I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle.
Happy Restoring!
Dieter
And another option... costs an arm and a leg Magnum Force Early Chrysler Dodge DeSoto Plymouth front brake kit for stock drum brake spindle (57-64): USD 1695.- at least (no option)
Posted 2018-12-27 7:58 PM (#575896 - in reply to #575868) Subject: RE: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-28 12:37 AM
I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle.
Happy Restoring!
Dieter
Unfortunately the plates I have, to put the holes in the correct place would have one in fresh air
But yes, I could use it as a template for making new plates :-)
Posted 2018-12-27 8:00 PM (#575897 - in reply to #575869) Subject: RE: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-28 12:54 AM
di_ch_NY56 - 2018-12-26 3:37 PM
I assume you need other plates. Migth be, that you could use the existing (65-70 C-body) plates as templates with other holes for the 60 to 64 spindles. From what I saw at youtube (mounting SSBC-kit at a 1967 Newport), the two parallel holes are the bottom screws of the later spindle.
Happy Restoring!
Dieter
And another option... costs an arm and a leg Magnum Force Early Chrysler Dodge DeSoto Plymouth front brake kit for stock drum brake spindle (57-64): USD 1695.- at least (no option)
makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway.
I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago.
I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China.
I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars.
I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf
makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway.
I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago.
I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China.
I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars.
I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf
makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway.
I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago.
I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China.
I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars.
I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf
z-140-14227 = $1850. Cheaper?
That's my point. A B-body kit can be bought for under $700. Has everything in that kit except the bracket, and you don't get the brackets in that kit!!!! That kit is crazy priced,
Posted 2018-12-29 1:22 PM (#575969 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 154 Location: Locked in my Canadian garage....
Grab a B body kit..... not the kit listed for the 57/58!!! lol
Toss the brackets it comes with, keep the knurled nuts.
I'll be finding out soon, it's exactly what I'm doing.
makes U$850 that is 1180 AU$ for a quality brake system made in the USA with no crappy, heavy (floating) calipers. Add shipping/tax probably still cheaper than AU$3000, certainly not AU$4000 and the featherlight Wilwood system pays it back each time you hit a bump and over time at the gas station. Of course the cost for 15"+ wheels is not included, but 15" wheels for these cars are a good idea anyway.
I gave intructions with part #s for "my" conversion many years ago.
I did the hard work figuring out the correct parts and tested the components (20+ years) shared my information for the benefit of others, still people buy inferior "kits" that are even more expensive, with parts made in China.
I researched too. I found the part# for the Wilwood kit made for the 1957/1958 Mopars.
I figure just grab a kit and make a bracket. Cheaper than buying the parts separately I'm sure and just need to make a bracket. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1162.pdf
z-140-14227 = $1850. Cheaper?
That's my point. A B-body kit can be bought for under $700. Has everything in that kit except the bracket, and you don't get the brackets in that kit!!!! That kit is crazy priced,
Aah....okay, that was the subject of another brake thread years ago, will the B-body hubs fit 57-61s. IIRC the thread never got an answer.
Posted 2018-12-29 3:08 PM (#575978 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 154 Location: Locked in my Canadian garage....
I believe B body hubs are identical to the 58 except might have to move caliper over 1/32 to 1/16th of an inch, but the kit comes with spacers. I will know soon! lol
Posted 2019-01-03 3:28 AM (#576180 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Forgot to ask, would you know the drum brake backing plate assembly thickness?
The total between the spindle face to under the head of the mounting bolt with the complete drum assembly?
The adaptor plates will be 1/2" so wondering whether I need to counterbore to use the same OEM bolts.
Thanks
Posted 2019-01-03 12:16 PM (#576196 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 13045 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Marc, the bolts are 7/16" UNF - the heads are approximately 7,5mm high, so if you countersink the heads 7,5 mm, there will be 5,2mm left in material thickness and that should work as strenght.
The bolts protrudes just a couple of mm on the back side (nut and lock washer on two, crown nuts and cotter pins on the bolts holding the steering arm).
So, it seems that even if you contersink the bolt heads, you would need new bolts, slightly longer.
Or, drill and tap the plate 7/16" UNF and use the original bolts mounted from the back side instead - in that case with strong LocTite or perhaps two set screws that secures the steering arm bolts.
Posted 2019-01-03 2:59 PM (#576205 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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This is the drawing for anyone that might need it or find it usefull to suit the 4 piston calipers sold by SSBC A62 and A63 to suit 11.25 rotors.
The 0.390 holes are the tapping size for the 7/16 UNF caliper mount bolts, cetre to centre distance is 2.750". The 0.445 holes (should be 0.438") are clearance for the 7/16 through bolts for mounting the adapter to the spindle. The 2.307 hole (hole size not critical +- 1/16) is copied from the original SSBC as is the relative location for the caliper.
The adapter plate is 1/2" steel plate.
If anyone needs the CAD file or the STL file to have these CNC'd, just ask.
Posted 2019-01-03 3:45 PM (#576209 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands
Looks 'un'surprisingly similar to the adapter-plates I made some years ago, first a set for my '64 NY, and later used this set as mockup for a pair for my '60 and '62 NY'ers.
Posted 2019-02-09 8:57 PM (#578019 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Ive seen some chat about unsprung weight so out of curiosity (and boredom) I weighed the old wheel assemblies and the new SSBC replacement parts to compare.
The SSBC, even with its iron 4 pot calipers, comes in at about 10 lbs LIGHTER than original equipment.
I measured the originals in a hobby box and the SSBC in a larger crate with all the packaging materials and they came out 7 lbs lighter, so in the same box and all the packaging removed Im guessing at around 10 lbs.
Although they arent Wilwoods, the SSBC still provide huge unsprung weight loss over standard.
Posted 2019-02-09 9:33 PM (#578020 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia
looking forward to this project.
Weight maybe lower but it will no make much difference in the overall weight of the car. Now the 500 pound difference with the Plymouth volare brakes is another story.
I'm with the SSBC set up so far, so I hope it works.
Posted 2019-02-09 9:51 PM (#578021 - in reply to #578020) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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hemidenis - 2019-02-10 12:33 PM
looking forward to this project.
Weight maybe lower but it will no make much difference in the overall weight of the car. Now the 500 pound difference with the Plymouth volare brakes is another story.
I'm with the SSBC set up so far, so I hope it works.
Agreed, there was just discussions in other threads that the SSBC may be even heavier and having more unspung weight than original and that Wilwood was the way to go with aluminium calipers.
I just wanted to check for my own curiosity if that was the case or not and clearly it is not.
Still a great unsprung weight saving over stock.
Hopefully wont be much longer before its back together. :-)
Posted 2019-03-12 1:57 AM (#579222 - in reply to #578031) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1960fury - 2019-02-11 1:33 AM
So what is the exact weight of the SSBC Disk/hub assembly, brackets, calipers and all the axle (unsprung) hardware that is needed to install?
Sorry for the late reply, didnt see this post.
I dont know the exact weight as all the parts were in the parts bins, can only tell you the difference between the two lots.
The bins probably weighed about 1 kg for the original parts and maybe 2kg for all the new parts.
Everything that came off in one bin and everything thats going on in the other.
You can see the weight on the scales.
Posted 2019-03-12 2:03 AM (#579223 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Its been very slow progress. I mocked up the plates Id drawn up on a 3D printer to see how everything is going to fit up and it should all work out ok. Hopefully not too much longer before I find out if this is going to work out!
Posted 2019-03-13 12:56 AM (#579272 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Gents.....Just wondering if there is any reason to mount the caliper forward instead of rearward on the spindle? Does not appear to be any clearance issues but would make the brake line routing much easier if rearward.
Posted 2019-03-13 4:58 AM (#579276 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Yes, Id prefer them at the back. Seems to be plenty of clearance. Ill drop it and make sure but even jacking up into nominal position seems to have plenty of clearance from lock to lock.
I wonder why SSBC say it must go to the front, but their instructions are generic and not specific to this.
Posted 2019-03-15 4:45 PM (#579394 - in reply to #579272) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2019-03-13 12:56 AM
Gents.....Just wondering if there is any reason to mount the caliper forward instead of rearward on the spindle? Does not appear to be any clearance issues but would make the brake line routing much easier if rearward.
Hmm, why do you say that? The stock location for the brake line and bracket is forward. So it is much easier to mount the caliper forward. I didn't have to change the bracket or hardline when I switched from drums to discs.
Posted 2019-03-15 8:51 PM (#579400 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
The port on the caliper when mounted at the front, points backwards and behind the hard line so requires an S bend to connect to the hardline that points forward.
If mounted rearward, it requires just a U bend to connect to the hard line.
Posted 2019-03-16 10:35 AM (#579425 - in reply to #579400) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2019-03-15 8:51 PM
The port on the caliper when mounted at the front, points backwards and behind the hard line so requires an S bend to connect to the hardline that points forward.
If mounted rearward, it requires just a U bend to connect to the hard line.
Posted 2019-03-17 5:07 PM (#579472 - in reply to #579425) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1960fury - 2019-03-17 1:35 AM
1coolbanana - 2019-03-15 8:51 PM
The port on the caliper when mounted at the front, points backwards and behind the hard line so requires an S bend to connect to the hardline that points forward.
If mounted rearward, it requires just a U bend to connect to the hard line.
Posted 2019-03-17 6:19 PM (#579474 - in reply to #579472) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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1coolbanana - 2019-03-17 5:07 PM
1960fury - 2019-03-17 1:35 AM
1coolbanana - 2019-03-15 8:51 PM
The port on the caliper when mounted at the front, points backwards and behind the hard line so requires an S bend to connect to the hardline that points forward.
If mounted rearward, it requires just a U bend to connect to the hard line.
Okay, so a specific problem of that caliper.
Wouldnt call it a problem, more a "feature" ;)
If it forces you to change the hardline and bracket, I'd call it a problem. If you do it right for the 2 front brake lines, cutting, bending, flaring, drilling/tapping into the frame, positioning the bracket, etc, couple of hours work and some $ too.
Posted 2019-03-17 6:25 PM (#579475 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
What makes you think I have to change anything?
Its just a nicer and easier routing of the the flex line when the caliper is rear mounted.
Either way works with original locations just one is easier, more aesthetically and functionally pleasing than the other.
Posted 2019-03-17 7:57 PM (#579477 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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What makes me think so is obvious. The OE hard line connector/bracket is in front of the spindle and the caliper now is in rear of the spinde and finding a proper position so that the flex line clears everything and is as short as possible is critical anyway.
So you run the flex line from the front to the back of the UCA? Around the control arm/spindle? Aesthetically and functional pleasing? Okay, if you say so. Keep in mind the flex line is not supposed to get in touch with anything during suspension travel in any wheel position. I'm curious how it looks installed.
Posted 2019-04-04 8:59 PM (#580396 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Hi gents Does someone know the torque spec for the 7/16" UNF bolts/nuts that hold the backing plate onto the spindle? Two long ones that go through the steering arm and two short ones. TIA
Some progress, got the caliper plates from laser cutting yesterday, drilled, tapped and finshed off and painted.
Posted 2019-04-06 7:18 PM (#580458 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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So far so good, all back together.
Is there an adjustment for pedal height between the two sets of linkages under the dash?
Pedal height has always been a problem and has always seemed to low to start with.
Posted 2019-04-07 2:57 AM (#580475 - in reply to #580474) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
wizard - 2019-04-07 5:27 PM
No, there,so only the pushrod. The booster trigger can be adjusted but that only affect when the booster kicks in, not the pedal height.
Try to pump the brake a couple of times and see if you get higher pedal (indicates air or to less Mc volume )
Thanks. Thats what I thought looking at the diagrams that I could find. Ive had the same problem since the day I brought it home and suspect maybe something to do with the rear drums but dont know what. Pumping makes no difference, it all seems properly bled and is working well, just too much pedal travel. Maybe the diameter of the master???
So shes back on the road finally :-) Went for a test drive today and all seems good but a little underwhelming, was expecting better but in saying that, its pretty good. I think the crappy cheap Chinese brake pads that came with the SSBC kit are rubbish and way too hard which is not helping.
Posted 2019-04-07 4:21 AM (#580479 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Marc, did you adjust the rear brakes according the fsm? Front adjuster in the same direction as the Wheel in forward rotation, rear adjuster in the same direction as the Wheel in rearward rotation...
The disc brakes will give less brake force than the drums, but even brake force at all times, hence overall better brakes
Posted 2019-04-07 5:19 AM (#580480 - in reply to #580479) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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wizard - 2019-04-07 7:21 PM
Marc, did you adjust the rear brakes according the fsm? Front adjuster in the same direction as the Wheel in forward rotation, rear adjuster in the same direction as the Wheel in rearward rotation...
The disc brakes will give less brake force than the drums, but even brake force at all times, hence overall better brakes
Yes, as per FSM.
I think part of my problem is the drums do not run true so part rotation they dont touch but some of the rotation they do.
This applies to both sides.
So to have them just backed off and not touching is too much.
I have them so they only just touch on a small part of the whole revolution.
Posted 2019-04-07 11:13 PM (#580517 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia
that is the feeling with disc brakes that everybody complaint, "like it is not grip between the rotors and pads". Is the same feeling I have with my regular car when I put an 800 pounds trailer in the back. With out the trailer you only need a single toe to stop the car very fast.
My 2017 Honda Accord has massive disc brakes in the front and the rear. One day I put 10 packs of 2 liter coke in the back, around 60 bottles that translated in KG it should be around 120kg or 264 pounds. It was quite a difference in braking when I got to the stop light, with me been used to always drive by myself..
Posted 2019-04-08 2:54 AM (#580525 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
I think the wooden pads supplied by SSBC are a big part of that.
They are stock 65-67 Mustang caliper copies so should be easy to source some quality EBC pads with some bite.
I havent really tried to lock anything up.
Im just running them in a bit first.
Posted 2019-04-18 4:17 AM (#581069 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Ok, Update:
I replaced the rubbish SSBC pads with some Hawk HPS pads.
The difference is phenomenal, its a huge improvement and now much better.
So to recap the SSBC debacle.
The calipers are 4 piston 65 Mustang.
The pads are rubbish, using Hawk HPS
The rotors are made in China, replaced with EBC 65 Mustang with an additional 4mm bearing spacer.
The bearings were rubbish Chinese, replaced with quality bearings.
Seals were rubbish, replaced with quality seals
The brake lines are Chinese "Sunsong" am using until I get replacements made.
Master cylinder looks ok but!?!
Calipers mounts, made myself.
Master cylinder and pushrod extension Im particularly happy with as its not too intrusive and retains the original booster.
So, I would highly NOT recommend SSBC.
They also ripped me off $400 but thats another story in the hands of the banks trying to recover the money.
All the parts are easily available, regarding the calipers, pads, rotors and master.
If anyone wants the CAD of the extension housing to use with any MC to clear the bellows, just give me a shout.
Same goes for the CAD for the caliper mounts, happy to share.
Overall, now, Im happy with the improvement, it pulls up smooth and straight but its been an uphill battle and my ongoing issues are related to the rear drums now which is the next step.
Posted 2019-05-13 11:26 PM (#582126 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 3887 Location: Northen Virginia
Good updated. Please let us know if you can make them lock up. if you can achieve that is because the brakes are good enough for the massive weight of the car.
I would definitely like to get the cad for the adapters and the MC.
Posted 2019-05-14 12:10 AM (#582132 - in reply to #582126) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
hemidenis - 2019-05-14 2:26 PM
Good updated. Please let us know if you can make them lock up. if you can achieve that is because the brakes are good enough for the massive weight of the car.
I would definitely like to get the cad for the adapters and the MC.
I certainly will.
Front is good.
Im struggling with the rear atm.
This is my main cause of issues.
Bent axles, drum runout causing excessive pedal travel.
Posted 2019-06-14 7:15 AM (#583416 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Ok, now that this piece of junk has arrived I can start to rebuild it so my braking issues will be fixed once and for all. It has been butchered but at least it is straight!
Posted 2019-12-03 6:56 PM (#591049 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Gentlemen How do I remove the booster power unit? The factory manual just states, remove the nuts and lock washers and to be careful not to damage the trigger arm for the valve. How do you get to the nuts on the inside?
Posted 2019-12-04 4:44 AM (#591059 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 267 Location: Sydney
Hi Sven
Thanks
Its no longer working properly.
I want to dismantle check and rebuild.
Anything special to do to not damage the trigger?
I have no problem removing the master etc
Ive done it a few times, I will be replacing the master while Im at it as I think its faulty like everything else I got from SSBC.
That is the only thing left of the SSBC kit apart from the calipers.
Posted 2019-12-04 5:12 AM (#591060 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Posts: 13045 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
The reinforcement plate has some body sealant between the body and the plate so it might stick hard and perhaps you need to wiggle it a little or use some small wooden wedges.
Try to remove the booster/plate slighty downwards.
The biggest risk is to loose the plastic trigger.
Try to measure the thickness of the sealant (or how much the studs protrude from the nuts) for to get the booster/support plate back in approximately the same position.
It's not easy to adjust the trigger arm, so perhaps you can avoid it by mounting the plate in the same position.
Hopefully I remember correctly, I haven't done this work since the seventies
Posted 2020-06-21 11:59 AM (#599956 - in reply to #574593) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Looks good! (Looks like a Dana 60 to me) Now you'll need to stroke the motor to 543 to match it! That should be strong enough for anything you want to connect it to. Is it shorter than stock? And did you have to make any modifications to the inner body or springs?
Posted 2020-06-21 5:48 PM (#599973 - in reply to #599956) Subject: Re: SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
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Powerflite - 2020-06-22 1:59 AM Looks good! (Looks like a Dana 60 to me) Now you'll need to stroke the motor to 543 to match it! That should be strong enough for anything you want to connect it to. Is it shorter than stock? And did you have to make any modifications to the inner body or springs?
Its the same width within 1/16". Ihad to remake and move the spring saddles for width and angle and reposition the assembly 1" forward until I get a longer tailshaft made.
Universal is the same which was a bonus, no other mods needed to fit in.
Original wheels still go on as before also.
The motor is mostly stock and staying that way for a long while, I just wanted and good rear end that will be trouble free and this fit the bill nicely with little mods and no mods to the car body or springs etc.
SSBC Disc Conversion on 60 New Yorker
