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Member
Posts: 30
Location: Iowa | Hello,
I am in the process of replacing my brakes and wheel cylinders on my 55 Custom Royal Lancer and it has been touch and go! I have finally got the first set of wheel cylinders changed out in the front, and have attempted to reinstall them on the wheel, and I noticed that the new wheel cylinders do not sit flush with the back plate of the wheel. I am pretty sure the wheel cylinders that I removed were flush with the back plate. I was wondering if any of you could suggest an adjustment that might make them sit more correctly, or if it is an issue with the new wheel cylinders. I purchased the new parts from MoParPro.com, and they do not seem to have any suggestions. Hope you guys can help!
I will attempt to include some photos of what I am working with.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Trent |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 371
| Did you compare the new ones to what you took off? They have to sit flush and tight or the brakes will not work properly. You could have just honed the original cylinders, unless they were total garbage. Take the cups to a parts store, not Auto, Advanced, O'Rielys or any of them. A NAPA or Car Quest can match up the cups and springs if you need them. I honed the original cylinders on my '56 cleaned everything up nice and even re-used the cups and the brakes work perfectly and no leaks. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9854
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Your new wheel cylinders might have been made in China and the casting was/is dimensionally off, i.e. they didn't care. Grinding/filing might be needed on the outside.
Or you have left and right swapped?
As others have suggested, unless the old wheel cylinders were very pitted, a light honing and new cups might be the solution to reuse them.
Some resources to consider:
55-56 Plymouth Service manual pdf (there is no 55-56 Dodge equivalent):
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109
Download, save and open to the brakes section on page 34/446.
Youtube Service Mopar Video from that time:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBN-N3-lbAo
Edited by 56D500boy 2018-12-09 3:36 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | IF you still have your originals, even if they are beat up, send them out and have them bronze sleeved. Bronze has a higher resistance to corrosion, not as porous, won't wear near as fast as cast iron. They will last a lifetime.
Probably will cost around $50 +/- per cyl. but well worth it and use copper/nickel brake line. Higher bursting strength than steel, very easy to bend/flare by hand without special bending tools, much higher resistance to moisture.
Used on European military vehicles, emergency vehicles, high end sports cars, ect. Copper/nickel doesn't look the same. I like the color,
it has a copper steel color. Probably around 2 times the price of steel. I believe it is around $30 for 25" of 3/16"? Should be enough to do most any car. |
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Expert
Posts: 2289
Location: Eastern Iowa | As I understand it, your issue is with the mounting bolt into to the cyl through the dust plate??
Is there just the one bolt??
Obviously the castings are not the same as your originals.
Compare them closely to find the issue.
You may have to ad some bushing mat'l between the dust plate and the cyl for them to mount properly.
Does the flat part that fits over the post sit tight against the dust plate??
This has nothing to do with the cups, springs and pistons.
Why are these threads so darn wide any more??
PITA to read!!
Edited by finsruskw 2018-12-12 10:28 AM
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Expert
Posts: 4034
Location: Connecticut | If they aren't identical to the originals, send them back. Don't jury-rig. I ordered mine from Bernbaum. Good quality. And they work well on my 55 Desoto. I always buy new. Ron |
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Member
Posts: 30
Location: Iowa |
Edited by Chessie6057 2019-06-17 12:21 AM
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