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Location: McCleary WA | I have posted some pics under "Members rides" but thought maybe I should start a thread here as it is going to be considerably modified. I purchased an '06 Chrysler 300C at an insurance auction as a donor. So far I have installed the independent rearend, the 14" front disc brakes (on the '57 spindles), and just finished making the transmission and motor mounts for the Gen III hemi and 5-speed automatic. The trans crossmember was installed backwards, notched to clear, and reinforced. I was going to use Trans-Dapt motor mounts, but they have what I consider a design flaw - they need to both be offset 5/8" to the right in order to compensate for the block bolts being 1 1/4" farther back on the RH side. Since they refused to acknowledge the problem or make me a modified set, I just copied their design with the appropriate modification. The frame mounts are gusseted on the rear which doesn't show in the photo. I installed a MoPar rear-sump oil pan in order to clear the Chrysler 300 AWD power rack and pinion which is the next task. It will mount on a removable cradle to make engine removal easier as things will be rather tight down there. The stock Chrysler exhaust manifolds appear to line up nicely, pointing between the frame and torsion bars. I plan to use the Chrysler master cylinder assembly, complete with power adjustable brake and throttle positioning. I originally had planned to use the factory navigation and 6-CD player, but not sure if they will work without a computer tie-in.
It's a slow process as I work alone and am nearing 70, but being retired really helps.
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Location: North Australia | Good on ya mate. Some neat fabrication going on there. I will be watching for your updates, you do some nice work. I liked looking at your Convertible job too. You are a true enthusiast! I am going to take a guess, you are a tradesman? Steve
Edited by 60 Imp 2019-04-02 8:02 AM
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Expert
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Location: NorCal | Nice work. How is the oil filter clearance? I've heard this a problem with Gen III Hemi swaps. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | 60 Imp - 2019-04-02 I am going to take a guess, you are a tradesman? Steve
Not really. 40 years behind a desk as an environmental engineer. But a hot rodder since I was 14, having hand built a lot of cars from 32 Fords to DeLoreans. |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: McCleary WA | 57chizler - 2019-04-02 10:37 AM
How is the oil filter clearance? I've heard this a problem with Gen III Hemi swaps.
I have a MoPar angled filter adapter. I haven't tried it yet but it is supposed to be the cure. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8472
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Darryl T - 2019-04-02 10:58 AM
Not really. 40 years behind a desk as an environmental engineer. But a hot rodder since I was 14, having hand built a lot of cars from 32 Fords to DeLoreans.
Hello. I was an environmental engineer for 38 years. Retired in 2010. Worked for Associated Engineering for the last 20 years 1990-2010. Mostly solid waste and biosolids management. Worked with US people from Brown and Caldwell, CH2M Hill and Tetra Tech on various projects.
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Veteran
Posts: 129
| I like! Looking fwd to updates on this build. I'm putting a 5.7/NAG1 in a 58 plymouth, it's interesting to see how others concurred obstacles I've run across. I like the rearend idea, wish I'd thought to do that to mine. Good luck! |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: McCleary WA | Darryl T - 2019-04-01 9:50 PM
I installed a MoPar rear-sump oil pan in order to clear the Chrysler 300 AWD power rack and pinion which is the next task. It will mount on a removable cradle to make engine removal easier as things will be rather tight down there.
I thought for posterity I should update that statement. The rear sump oil pan did not work out, so I went with a Moroso mid-sump pan. The rack required the fabrication of shorter steering arms, out of 1" square stock, due to its shorter travel and the stock arms hitting the 18" wheels/tires. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | After selling this project in August and re-purchasing it last month, it is now in a body shop getting the rockers and lower rear quarters replaced, as well as getting the firewall, hood, and tailgate "cleaned up" with all extraneous holes filled. Plans as of now include upgrading the 5.7 to a 6.4 SRT8 engine, and hopefully retaining the pushbutton shift. Stay tuned.... |
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Regular
Posts: 75
| What are your plans on retaining the push button shifter?
My plan is to use an A-518(46RH) with the push button cable adapter from AandA transmissions. I have all of the parts, haven't mocked it up yet, but I'm getting close.
Also, I found that the Mopar Performance Hemi wiring harness requires a momentary starter switch, which is exactly what our Neutral push button does, so it should be easy to hook that up. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Current plan is to use the system from Powertrain Control Solutions, which is specifically designed for the Chrysler NAG1 transmission and others. The button pad will replace the original pushbutton assembly. While not what you are probably looking for, it is a street rod and not a restoration so I'm not hung up on a totally original look. See powertraincontrolsolutions.com. I will probably use a modern pushbutton starter switch, or use an original key switch from a manual trans '57 Dodge which I believe includes a start position. The idea is a tasteful integration of original design with modern function and electronics. |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: So. Cal | You could mount that button pad behind the original push buttons to have them actuate the button pad. As long as the change in position isn't too convoluted, you should be able to make that work. That's what I would probably do. |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: McCleary WA | Darryl T - 2020-03-05 11:40 AM
After selling this project in August and re-purchasing it last month, it is now in a body shop getting the rockers and lower rear quarters replaced, as well as getting the firewall, hood, and tailgate "cleaned up" with all extraneous holes filled. Plans as of now include upgrading the 5.7 to a 6.4 SRT8 engine, and hopefully retaining the pushbutton shift. Stay tuned....
Update - body work is almost done, including cleaning up the firewall and eliminating the cold air plenum behind it to make more room under the dash for a/c. The 2006 Chrysler 5.7 hemi turned out to have a bad piston, so I looked for an SRT8 engine and even considered a Hellcat, but ended up getting a really good deal on a 7,000 mile 2019 5.7 hemi. At nearly 71 I decided the Hellcat was probably overkill......
Edited by Darryl T 2020-07-08 12:09 AM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: So. Cal | Good choice. Having that much excess power is overrated. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Took the 2019 5.7 hemi and 5-speed trans up to the shop (Horsepower Northwest in Bremerton, WA) today. Had to make a decision - bring the car home and try to do more of the mechanical work myself, or leave it in the capable hands of a pro. Its still there. The work Aaron Porter has done so far is top notch, so it made sense to just let him continue. All rust repair is done, plus the tailgate and firewall cleaned up. See if you can spot another subtle change.
Thought I would add a few photos.
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Lower Mainland BC | Darryl T - 2020-07-16 3:34 PM All rust repair is done, plus the tailgate and firewall cleaned up. See if you can spot another subtle change.
Besides the heater delete and the "port" for some aftermarket A/C/Heating system? (Vintage Air?) Or the rack and pinion steering?
Edited by 56D500boy 2020-07-16 7:31 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | A/C is from Restomod Air - the biggest and best we could find. And good catch on the power R&P. But that isn't it. Hint - it's in the last photo. |
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Location: Blythewood, SC | No cowl vent. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | 57plymouth - 2020-07-17 5:16 AM
No cowl vent.
You win the prize. With the heater removed and A/C added, and the air plenum behind the firewall no longer needed, we decided to eliminate it. That really uncluttered the cowl. Not everyone's choice but it works here. |
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Expert
Posts: 3618
Location: NorCal | My '57 NY was done the same. The A/C box wouldn't clear the wiper motor so the wipers were converted to cable-drive with the motor located behind the right kick panel.
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: McCleary WA | Very nice. Can I ask what brand of cable operated wipers you used? I bought a kit on Ebay but the quality is marginal at best. It looked exactly like one selling for twice as much, too. Years ago I used an original cable system out of a Jag or Morris Minor and it worked great. |
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Expert
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Location: NorCal | I dunno, the installation was done before I purchased the car. The cable-drive wiper travel was a lot less than factory but I never drove it in the rain. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | 57chizler - 2020-07-19 2:38 PM
The cable-drive wiper travel was a lot less than factory but I never drove it in the rain.
On most cable-drive setups the travel is adjustable at the motor by moving the pin the cable is fastened to. |
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Veteran
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Location: WA/USA | The fire wall really cleans up when you don't have all the stock stuff penetrating it. Looks great. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | I thought it was time for an update. Body and paint are done, still needs to be color sanded and buffed. That shine is straight out of the gun. Next it comes home where I will install the glass, chrome, and stainless trim; then back to the shop for wiring and plumbing, most likely including 2 fuel tanks, one in the stock location and a mirror image one on the other side, filled via cross-over pipe like a C5 Corvette. Stay tuned.
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Very nice color combination! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Windshield and curved side glass are installed. Brought it home, have most of the chrome and stainless on. Finished the power door locks - super easy - and now working on the one-piece door glass. This is the fun stuff for an old hotrodder...
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Location: DFW, TX | Wagon is coming along NICE, Darryl! |
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Location: Atlanta, GA | The exterior looks great so far. Nice job! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Back to the pro shop today for wiring and plumbing, radiator, gas tank(s), and interior, Yes, the ugly wheels are just rollers and will soon be replaced.
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Location: NorCal | Darryl T - 2021-08-30 6:49 PM
Yes, the ugly wheels are just rollers and will soon be replaced.
Glad to hear that. Can't wait to see the finished project...I'm green with envy. |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Kennewick Wa | 2 thumbs up!! Just sorry l don't have more... |
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| can I ask where you got the new weather stripping and how the stainless and body moldings are held on? We just got my great grandmothers 2 door 1957 Dodge and I want to pull the molding off and give it a good buffing to try and save the patina of the car while still giving it a little shine but I want to make sure I can get the clips to hold the molding back on and be able to remove it safely so I don't bend or break the clips. |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | Very nice project. You have done well! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | resq302 - 2021-11-11 7:30 PM
can I ask where you got the new weather stripping and how the stainless and body moldings are held on? We just got my great grandmothers 2 door 1957 Dodge and I want to pull the molding off and give it a good buffing to try and save the patina of the car while still giving it a little shine but I want to make sure I can get the clips to hold the molding back on and be able to remove it safely so I don't bend or break the clips.
Weatherstripping came from a variety of sources. Much was purchased from Gary Goers while he was still in business, and unfortunately some of that, the door seals and tailgate window channels, was incorrect and unusable. His successor, Quirey Quality Design, was able to provide the correct door seals. Other sources of generic weatherstripping and seals were Restoration Specialties; Rubber the Right Way; J&J Auto Fabrics; Rock Auto; Steele Rubber Products; and Metro Molded Parts. The sliding windows alone used a combination of seals from 4 different sources as no one offers the correct seals for them.
As for the stainless molding clips, the front fender moldings are mostly threaded clips withs nuts if I remember correctly, with the rest being spring clips. Remove them carefully to protect the stainless, but figure on replacing the clips with new ones. You can find suitable clips on ebay or from sources like Fasteners Plus; Restoration Specialties; Clips and Fasteners; and Midwest Musclecar Specialties. Google or duckduckgo is your friend here. Quirey also has the special clips for the windshield molding.
Edited by Darryl T 2021-11-12 3:29 PM
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Regular
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| awesome ! Thank you Darryl ! I know the weather stripping that goes into the window channel around the passenger side door glass is completely shot and got the floor and seat wet when I washed the 30 years of dust off the car when we got it home. Looking to keep it dry. lol |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: McCleary WA | resq302 - 2021-11-12 7:43 PM
awesome ! Thank you Darryl ! I know the weather stripping that goes into the window channel around the passenger side door glass is completely shot and got the floor and seat wet when I washed the 30 years of dust off the car when we got it home. Looking to keep it dry. lol
Quirey (814-509-6410) should have that, under the Goers part number C11A. As a side note, since my car is non-stock I opted for Steele #70-2821-60 lip seals for the outer top edge of the door/glass seal and tailgate glass rather than the stock fuzzies. Worked much better and looks modern. |
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| Awesome. Thank you again. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Getting started on the upholstery. Found a young guy who is really sharp and very eager. He has all of the sound deadening in - floor, roof, inside the doors and 1/4 panels, firewall - and has the seats and door panels laid out. Check out the back seat.
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Kennewick Wa | SHARP!! |
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Location: Ohio | Darryl T - 2022-01-20 6:39 PM
Getting started on the upholstery. Found a young guy who is really sharp and very eager. He has all of the sound deadening in - floor, roof, inside the doors and 1/4 panels, firewall - and has the seats and door panels laid out. Check out the back seat.
Darryl.
The rear seat looks excellent.
What are the plans for the rear wheelhouse covering in the rear cargo area ?
Always interested in ideas from other wagon owners on what to use for the rear cargo area.
As you're aware the original "vinoleum" material used by the factory used a di-electric process to make ribbed patterns and formed so that it fit the wheelhouse curvature, then glued in place. The covering is almost always damaged, impossible to remove / save or find nice replacements !!
Is the upholstery shop making a pattern to create a custom covering for the rear wheelhouse / cargo area?
Are you planning to use all vinyl ?
Or a combination of vinyl and carpet ?
Any pictures / info you can share would be appreciated.
Chas
Edited by Space Trukin Wagon 2022-01-21 12:14 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | The upholsterer is considering several approaches. The big concern is how to include the bump-out for the seat catch. It will be vinyl stretched over dense pad and will have 4-6" of wool carpet at the bottom. Since it is a street rod and not a restoration we are free to do what works and looks best. Pictures will be posted when we get to that point. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Making a little more progress. Bottom of door panel will be dark gray wool carpet. Wiring is coming along; new dual stainless steel fuel tanks arrived; ordering Speedhut gauges. Planning to debut at Goodguys in Puyallup in July, but probably won't be quite finished.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 486
Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | LOOKS GREAT ! |
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Location: WA/USA | Upholstery looks unique and great. I really like it. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Coronet_Jeff - 2020-03-12 3:40 AM
What are your plans on retaining the push button shifter?
My plan is to use an A-518(46RH) with the push button cable adapter from AandA transmissions. I have all of the parts, haven't mocked it up yet, but I'm getting close.
Also, I found that the Mopar Performance Hemi wiring harness requires a momentary starter switch, which is exactly what our Neutral push button does, so it should be easy to hook that up.
Here's a little teaser - we had a set of Powerflite push buttons made on a 3-D printer, since they have the large bottom button horizontal, and replaced LOW with P for Park. They will go on an NOS Powerflite shifter to active a positional switch which will work with the Powertrain Control Solutions setup. They are engineering that part for us. Starting will be via a modern "push to start" button located where the key switch was.
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Expert
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Darryl T - 2022-04-19 8:30 PM
Coronet_Jeff - 2020-03-12 3:40 AM
What are your plans on retaining the push button shifter?
My plan is to use an A-518(46RH) with the push button cable adapter from AandA transmissions. I have all of the parts, haven't mocked it up yet, but I'm getting close.
Also, I found that the Mopar Performance Hemi wiring harness requires a momentary starter switch, which is exactly what our Neutral push button does, so it should be easy to hook that up.
Here's a little teaser - we had a set of Powerflite push buttons made on a 3-D printer, since they have the large bottom button horizontal, and replaced LOW with P for Park. They will go on an NOS Powerflite shifter to active a positional switch which will work with the Powertrain Control Solutions setup. They are engineering that part for us. Starting will be via a modern "push to start" button located where the key switch was.
I'd like to see the details on that conversion when you get to assembling it. |
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Regular
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Location: League City, TX | Keep us updated on the shifter, I thought about doing something similar.
I already have a newer 727, but may swap in a 518. I've been thinking bout changing the mechanical throw of the buttons and relabeling them.
I'd like to go from:
R N D
1 2
To:
P R N
D L
Edited by BlueGhost 2022-04-20 11:42 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | This is the rotary switch that will link to the shifter and control the NAG1 5-speed trans. I don't know its source other than it was provided by Powertrain Control Solutions who are designing all of the electronics. We consider it one of the coolest features of the project, and one that no one will ever notice.
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Location: League City, TX | Darryl T - 2022-04-21 1:57 PM
This is the rotary switch that will link to the shifter and control the NAG1 5-speed trans. I don't know its source other than it was provided by Powertrain Control Solutions who are designing all of the electronics. We consider it one of the coolest features of the project, and one that no one will ever notice.
Very cool, guess it will work like the gear selector knobs on the Ram trucks. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Right, and since PCS works with Mercedes and Chrysler products it just may be from one of them. The good part is they are prototyping some new systems on my car and another in the same shop so the cost to me is negligible. |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: McCleary WA | 57chizler - 2021-08-31 11:44 AM
Darryl T - 2021-08-30 6:49 PM
Yes, the ugly wheels are just rollers and will soon be replaced.
Glad to hear that. Can't wait to see the finished project...I'm green with envy.
I think these 18" Schott wheels look a little better.
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Much better! |
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Posts: 3618
Location: NorCal | Taste in wheels is in the eye of the beholder...I'd say it's about a tossup. First disappointment in your build. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 375
Location: McCleary WA | Front wheel is missing its center cap in this photo. When installed the lug nuts are covered, which was the goal and not easy to find. I've been building street rods for 57 years and have a pretty good idea what I want, but to each their own. If you liked those plastic covered stock Chrysler 300C wheels I'll make you a good deal on them |
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