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Veteran
Posts: 130
Location: Wyoming | I haven’t gotten the distributor out yet, but I’d like to prime an A block 318 with oil before starting - it’s been sitting a long time. Is an oil pump priming tool commercially available or do I need to use an old distributor shaft? I know some newer engines are a hex drive, but not sure about this one. |
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Expert
Posts: 1739
Location: Alaska | The problem is the oil pump is driven by an intermediary gear off the camshaft and the whole engine has to be rotated to turn the oil pump. You would have to partially tear down the engine to spin the pump. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| you can take the intermediate shaft out and put a oil priming rod in there cant you? of course the pro's just use a oil primer tank but they run like 250$.
I know most just fire them up...
i think it uses a big allen bar, not sure the old one used hex rod... check it out and make one if round |
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Veteran
Posts: 130
Location: Wyoming | If I understand what’s been said, the intermediate shaft runs off the cam gear and it actually spins both the distributor shaft (above it) and oil pump drive shaft (below it)? How can I remove the intermediate shaft? Exploded view? |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | Pull the distributor and look down in the hole and you'll see the intermediate shaft. Use a spreading pliers (like snap ring pliers) or a strong magnet to remove. Look at the end of the intermediate shaft and you'll know what shape you'll need to drive your oil pump (I believe it is a slot, just like the end of the distributor). Then follow the procedure to re-install the intermediate shaft, which should be to find TDC on cylinder one and then install the intermediate shaft so the slot that drives the distributor is parallel with the crank centerline when the intermediate shaft is fully seated. The gears are angle cut, so the gear will spiral back into place. Then make sure you install the distributor so the rotor points at cylinder 1 spark plug when you re-install. |
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Veteran
Posts: 130
Location: Wyoming | Got it. Thanks. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | it's pretty much self explanatory once you have a look -------------------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Yep or if you have just built the engine, you should have all the good lube stuff everywhere, so disconnect the coil and crank it the engine.
If its an old engine that hasn't run for a long time, take the rocker covers off and pour the new oil over everything and then crank it
If you want it to crank easier or longer, pull the plugs out first
You should leave the rocker covers off until your sure both sides are getting oil. Its not just pressure you need, its also distribution.
If you do choose to artificially prime it, remember to turn the crank at the same time to open different oil paths in the engine
The hard part of artificially priming the engine is (as said) the gear for the shaft is angle cut and the oil pump drive is a slot, so as your trying to reinstall the shaft, if the slot isn't in the right
spot, the shaft wont drop until you get the slot and tang to line up. Which then means you may need to remove the shaft again if your first go was out 1 tooth or whatever
I have always done it by just cranking it
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Expert
Posts: 2002
Location: Branson, MO | What ttotired said. Works for me. |
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Expert
Posts: 1739
Location: Alaska | I hesitate to tell someone to pull the gear and reinstall not knowing their expertise working on engines. Jeffrey seems to understand what we are telling him. |
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Veteran
Posts: 130
Location: Wyoming | thanks for everyone’s input - much appreciated. I’ll test the procedure on an engine not installed in a car before I try it leaned over a fender. Just trying to preserve the old bearings as much as I can by cranking over dry. Lots of sludge in the oil pan and I assume elsewhere in the engine - trying to eliminate that too before getting things going again. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | if you can get an old clean cam/oil pump gear shaft , grind the gears off , then a short rod up the rest of the way . got one in my tool box right now ------------------------------------later |
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Veteran
Posts: 130
Location: Wyoming | After speaking with my brother about it, that was my plan. Thought even about disassembling an old distributor and spinning the top of that shaft after reinstalling - still a closed system that way. |
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Expert
Posts: 4034
Location: Connecticut | mikes2nd - 2019-05-20 1:14 AM you can take the intermediate shaft out and put a oil priming rod in there cant you? of course the pro's just use a oil primer tank but they run like 250$. I know most just fire them up... i think it uses a big allen bar, not sure the old one used hex rod... check it out and make one if round Mike is on the money here. For the 318 in my 58 Plymouth, which hadn't been started in over a decade, I spiraled out the intermediate shaft. Then I purchased a 1/2" steel bar at Home Depot. I cut the bar down to about 12" with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder. Then I cut a notch in the end of the bar with the cutoff wheel. I widened it until it fit over the end of the oil pump. Then I chucked it in my drill and spun slowly for about a minute. You can feel resistance as pressure builds up. Ron |
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Expert
Posts: 3768
Location: NorCal | 60 dart - 2019-05-21 1:06 PM
if you can get an old clean cam/oil pump gear shaft , grind the gears off , then a short rod up the rest of the way .
Yep, this is the one I made for big blocks.
(OP Primer.JPG)
Attachments ---------------- OP Primer.JPG (170KB - 148 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 3768
Location: NorCal | For comparison this is what the early 318 shaft (P/N 1323369) looks like.
(Sht.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- Sht.jpg (105KB - 154 downloads)
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Veteran
Posts: 298
Location: Kalispell, MT USA | I bought one of the long hex shaped ones for my b-motor. Maybe cut a slot in one end? would work for both styles then. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9604
Location: So. Cal | I prefer to use a much smaller diameter rod so that it doesn't rub on the bushing for the intermediate shaft, and so it is also easier to get in and out. So I used a smaller hex rod and welded the cut-off end of an intermediate shaft on it. Then cut it down a little on a lathe to make it even easier to insert & remove. It works really well. In fact, I am using it on my 392 today. Keep in mind that you will likely need to remove the heater box in order to fit your drill in there unless you have a particularly small drill and your rod is short enough.
(Oil Pump Primer.jpg)
(Oil Priming.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- Oil Pump Primer.jpg (217KB - 140 downloads) Oil Priming.jpg (121KB - 131 downloads)
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