Thanks to everyone that's contributed information and encouragement.
I have another puzzler. I'm sure there's a trick to effectively checking/filling the master cylinder equipped with power brakes.
The booster is giving me fits.
Posted 2019-07-03 10:41 PM (#584425 - in reply to #584366) Subject: RE: Master cylinder
Location: Chippewa Lake, OH
I'm in the exact same predicament with my '59 Plymouth, I wonder what on earth they were thinking with this set-up?! Apparently, the thought of ever having to refill the cylinder wasn't on their minds when being designed- but the fact it was still like that in '59 as in '55-6- surely someone else had to have questioned the absurdity during those years?! Anyway, turkey baster it is- good tip!
When did Chrysler finally change it to the manageable booster/cylinder set-up? I thought it would have been with the all new 1960s but apparently not if this is an issue with a '61!
Posted 2019-07-06 1:50 AM (#584487 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
For you guys who are guessing, if you want to be perfect --
The Mopar world went to tandem boosters in 1963.
Dual master Cylinders began in 1967 in the Mopar world, with the
(Other car manufacturers already had dual master Cylinders as
Early as 1962 -- including Rambler, of all manufacturers.....)
Posted 2019-07-06 10:12 AM (#584492 - in reply to #584478) Subject: RE: Master cylinder
Location: Lower Mainland BC
ronbo97 - 2019-07-05 4:37 PM Most auto parts stores sell a small funnel with a flexible plastic extension. The extension is about 12" long and is permanently attached to the funnel. That's what you need.
So something like this? I can see how that *SHOULD* work but I can also see spillage due to the lag between pouring fluid into the funnel and the fluid coming out of the hose. Very easy to over estimate the amount of fluid needed and by that time, it's too late. BTDT.
Posted 2019-07-06 1:02 PM (#584498 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
What I used to do on my Furys with the diaphragm type booster was have someone step on the brake pedal and hold it while I filled the reservoir or use a block of wood if alone. I had to remember not to fill it to the top or it would spillover when the brakes were released. Of course, first start the engine to build vacuum.
Posted 2019-07-20 2:20 PM (#585030 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: Vancouver Island
My personal opinion is, to make the best of a hare-brained design, use the turkey baster. Under the circumstances, it’s the “perfect” solution. The funnel just leaves too much room for error. But man, with all due respect to Chrysler engineering at the time, this was a fail from the get-go.
Posted 2019-07-20 10:10 PM (#585037 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: Mandurah, Western Australia
We dont have turkey basters in Oz, at least I never heard of one and had to Google it to see what they look like. I carry a 5 ml hyperdermic in my brake kit for hard to get at m/c's, can also use it to bring level down when replacing disk pads
Posted 2019-07-21 6:32 AM (#585045 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: Milano, Italy
My humble solution is this:
I welded a small tube on the cover of the master cylinder, then I added a separate plastic brake reservori from a small modern car (actually the old 1980 Fiat Panda) which has the cap with a float that activates a lamp when the level is low.
This reservoir is set on the firewall slightly above the master cylinder and connected with a short hose to the previously welded tube on the master cylinder cap.
Then you can easily top this reservoir when needed, that is when the warning lamp goes on on your ****pit.
This way I saved my car (and my ass) a couple of times when a leak happened somewhere along the brake line.
Posted 2019-07-21 6:27 PM (#585058 - in reply to #585057) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: northern germany
ronbo97 - 2019-07-21 5:28 PM
Filling the m/c is not a problem if you take your time.
No problem at all. Just connect some short piece of hose to a small funnel, 30 second and a few cents. That this comes up so often puzzles me. It is not that you are suppose to add brake fluid like motor oil. You change it every 2 or 3 years, thats it.
Posted 2019-07-22 8:27 PM (#585108 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: Central New York
The level was low, but not empty. And I was going to take the opportunity to drain and refill the system. But before I did, I wanted to know how to refill the master. That's how all this started.
This my first experience with power brakes as my other 61 has manuals. The power brake system feels sloppy, spongy and slow to respond whereas the manual car feels tighter and more responsive.
I was just wondering what prevailing opinion was regarding switching.
Posted 2019-07-25 12:05 PM (#585216 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: STL, MO
I got rid of that foolish factory configuration on my 58 Plymouth and went manual with a dual 15/16 m/c and aaj disc brake kit, E body rear w/11x3 drums, no flathead either, 400+ hp 392 and never felt underbraked,FWIW.
Posted 2019-07-26 3:40 PM (#585261 - in reply to #584366) Subject: Re: Master cylinder
Location: Central New York
I really wasn't considering changing to a disc system, as I'd like to keep things semi-original. I have no issues with running drum brakes.
Everything I have is equipped with drums from the factory(except for the 2014 Ram 1-ton) 70 Challenger, 70 Roadrunner, 61 Belvedere 4dr, and 61 Fury convert all have drums and they work just fine.
What I'd really like to do is swap to a more contemporary drum setup from the 70's or 80's but I have no idea what cars and parts are compatible.