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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | Just a quick question. Does anybody recommend using a lead substitute in their gas? If not, is there a particular octane that I should be using? It's for my 61 Fury with 38K. Thank you. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i use 93 sunoco ,,,,, in everything! ----------------------------------------------------later |
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Expert
Posts: 2003
Location: Branson, MO | aaronsinthegarage - 2019-07-22 7:33 AM
Just a quick question. Does anybody recommend using a lead substitute in their gas? If not, is there a particular octane that I should be using? It's for my 61 Fury with 38K. Thank you.
I use it all the time in my '59 DeSoto and never had an issue. Can't tell if it's really of any value but since I've never had a problem, I'm convinced that it is probably better than nothing. I think of it a a precautionary measure.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7398
Location: northern germany | I drive with my "special blend" since the mid 90s, or longer. I drive a lot and the engine (very high mileage) still runs without noises and trouble free. Keep in mind, it is not only the valve seat that is lubricated, it is he valve stem and the piston rings/walls too. So yes, always drive with some kind of lubricant, even if you have hardened valve seats.
Edited by 1960fury 2019-07-22 6:20 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 915
Location: Pau, S-W France | Never use any lead substitute since 2001 in my '57 Hemi .... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| Nope, pointless waste of time and money.
This was proven with mail trucks... They ran them 500k and it only produces slightly more wear... if your running 500k then think about it, but your rings will wear out before that. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | so, I've been getting a lot of pinging under heavy load and I've added a bottle of lead substitute to be on the safe side, $4 so not that big of a deal for me but long term will the pinging just keep getting worse? |
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Expert
Posts: 4036
Location: Connecticut | What engine do you have and what is your timing set at ? Pinging is likely caused by timing that is too far advanced. Ron |
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Veteran
Posts: 139
| Lead substitute is not an octane booster and will do nothing to mitigate pinging. You didn't state what octane you are using but if it's not already premium unleaded you should step up to higher octane gasoline. Lead substitute is sold with claims of replacing the lost lubricant value of leaded gasoline of the past and it is very debatable/doubtful if there is any benefit whatsoever in using it in a vintage, pre-unleaded requirement vehicle. Personally I think it is a waste of money. |
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Expert
Posts: 1476
Location: Pacific Northwest | What Ron said! This sounds like a timing issue. |
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Veteran
Posts: 139
| Something else to check in regards to pinging: Breaker point gap. Most folks these days are not skilled/practiced in setting and maintaining breaker points and adjusting point gap; as the rubbing block wears and the gap decreases, spark timing is advanced. Point gap adjustment changes relatively quickly as well, especially as the quality of breaker point sets has dropped in recent years. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | I believe it's a 318 as the distributor is on the rear of the engine by the firewall. The stamped engine code is 1859228 or 1869228 not sure about the 3rd digit. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | so, my last fill up has been the regular unleaded but I can step it up to the premium. Timing was what I was thinking too. I'll have to break out the shop manual and read up on how to best set up the timing by using a timing light. There is a MOPAR event happening next weekend here in my area so I'm hoping to attend and get some advice from others on how to adjust the points etc. It's been over 25 years since I last owned a Fury so I'm kinda starting over in regards to working on these engines. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | I'm one of those not skilled in the finer details of breaker points but willing to learn for sure. Thank you. |
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Expert
Posts: 4036
Location: Connecticut | There is no need to use anything but Regular gas in your car. The higher octane gas is for high compression engines: 392, 833, 413, etc. Also, setting timing is easy. Buy a feeler gauge key. Usually has wire and flat edge gauges. You want to use the flat edge for this procedure. You use the wire for setting spark plug gap. Remove distributor cap from distributor. (Don't remove wires.) Then have a helper crank the engine for a split second while you watch the points. They will open a tiny bit and then close. You want to stop this procedure when the points are open. Then take the feeler gauge and measure the gap between the points. Check against the recommended gap in the shop manual. If it's too wide or too narrow, then there is a screw for adjustment on the points assembly. Then recheck using the previous procedure. I don't have a picture. But I'm sure someone will post a picture of this. Ron |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | I've noticed that the engine is missing at idle. Not excessive but enough that I can feel it. Plugs look good, new wires and the distributor cap and rotor looks good. I've got a friend coming over next week to help me work on it but could this still be a timing issue? My shop manual mentions that I could have a defective coil or condenser. Is there a way to confirm that those two parts are defective? I only say that as it's the one constant for my issue that is listed in my shop manual for missing at idle and highway speeds. Thank you. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | just found my engine block code and my engine is a 326 and not a 318 as I originally thought. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | well, it just doesn't seem correct. I must've misread the post as I'm being told it's a 318. The raised engine code on the passenger side manifold is 1859228. |
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Expert
Posts: 3396
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | 326 was a one year engine for 59. Of course it can be transplanted. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | SO, I think that the raised numbers that I found which are on the passenger side are the last digits to my VIN and the engine block number is on the drivers side which I will crawl under this weekend and confirm that number, which I suspect will turn out to the be the small block 318. Will post back. Thank you. |
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Expert
Posts: 1287
| Lads --
With each fillup, I put five gallons of 110 octane leaded racing fuel in with the regular unleaded. One-ten by itself is pretty hot, but isn't bad when mixed with normal pump gas. During overhauls, the valve seats of all four of my "good" cars have been hardened but being more of the Hi-Po variety, they need higher octane. For instance, the injected 327 has 11:1 compression, the 426-S 10.3:1, and the ram-inducted '60 10:1; the 375 horse 392 has just 9:1, but it really screams with better gas.
However, I must warn you that here in Colorado that 110 stuff is $7.999 a gallon and cannot be put directly in the tank of a street-licensed vehicle.
Joe Godec
'57 Chrysler 300C, '60 Fury SonoRamic, '65 Fuelie Vette, '65 Sport Fury 426-S/4-speed |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: Norfolk, VA | My pinging disappeared once I put a bottle of high octane boost in my fuel tank. Will use the premium fuel from now on. |
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