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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: MN | I pulled the rear quarter window out to clean and lube the tracks and mechanism and, now that everything is out of the way, I'd like to do some preventive maintenance in there. Just wondering what others have done in this area. So far I've vacuumed everything out and used a long piece of copper tubing hooked to a valve on my air hose and blew all the little nooks and crannies out. I'd like to somehow protect it but am not sure of the best method. I think POR15 is out because, from what I've read, the surfaces have to be meticulously clean, which is impossible given the inaccessibility of the area. Does it work to spray a rust converter on it without a lot of scraping and wire brushing? Here are a couple photos of what it looks like.
(Inner Quarter 1.jpg)
(Inner Quarter 2.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- Inner Quarter 1.jpg (215KB - 154 downloads) Inner Quarter 2.jpg (199KB - 164 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9604
Location: So. Cal | Clean it up the best you can and spray an epoxy primer on it. The best thing you can do for this area is to keep it clean. Do that by making sure that the drain holes at the bottom are all clear without a lot of crud plugging them up. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i'd clean it up with a wire brush , best possible and paint it with a zinc rich self-etching primer ----------------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9604
Location: So. Cal | Also, you can see that the trim holes are leaking water into this area. Use trim studs that seal, or try to seal off the original trim clips to keep water out of here better. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: MN | Thanks for the tips Nathan and Chuck.
I forgot to mention, the waffle "felt" for, I'm assuming, sound deadener has started to come loose from the top down and is starting to rub on the window mechanism. Due to the grime I doubt it would work to stick it back on. Should I just pull it out and leave it out or will it sound like a tin can in the car if I don't replace it with something? |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1140
Location: Blackpool, United Kingdom. | Clean it out, dry it thoroughly and apply cavity wax starting from top to bottom, check the rockers as well the quarters drain into the rockers they will be full of dirt as well, have a look in the rear wheel well at end of rocker, some have a round plug you can remove, makes blowing them out with air easier. |
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Location: North Australia | I used this product for my Imperial. I was amazed to see this stuff penetrating the folded seams, and actually creeping through the joints, even making its way to the outside of the car. Smells bad for a couple days, then settled down OK. Is messy, but cleaned up with turps even after a couple days.
Steve.
https://knockout-rust.com.au/product-information/
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Veteran
Posts: 259
Location: Detroit MI area | A lot of ground to cover...
Undercoat, usually asphalt base. Plusses, sound deadening and can replicate factory coating. Minus, it often cracks. Water behind undercoat can’t dry and fosters rust.
Rust convertors, various forms. Plus, can work on flat surfaces without heavy scale. Minus, an overused product. If the area has expanded (seam swelling), bubbled or
weak it will not work. It doesn’t restore integrity to weakened metal. Also, some convertors form a hard film. Not good for seams. See undercoat above.
Seam penetrating materials (usually waxes). Some are amber, some are dark colored. No difference. Plusses, thinner, flexible, has a very minimal film build and it will
penetrate seams, a good thing and it will not harden. Neutral… it drips. That’s actually good. Minus, paint won’t stick to it. Only use this after a car is painted. It is not
durable when exposed to full weather and road splash. It is fine inside a body panel.
Seam bridging materials, essentially modern undercoating with flexibility. Plus, good for road splash and high abrasion areas. Usually used on undersides. It can be
applied over seam penetrants for durability. I would not apply it inside a body panel. The penetrants alone are fine.
As noted with previous posts, drainage is critical. Clear the factory drains. Or make discreet drains, especially rocker and quarter panels. Water trapped inside will
wreck your best efforts. Also make the products work for you. Surfaces should be clean and dry. Apply during warmer weather.
I use this air blow gun to clear frames, quarters and rockers. A piece of cheap pre made brake line with one fitting cut off.
(IMG_6746[1].JPG)
(IMG_6747[1].JPG)
Attachments ---------------- IMG_6746[1].JPG (12KB - 158 downloads) IMG_6747[1].JPG (11KB - 145 downloads)
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Regular
Posts: 86
Location: MN | Thanks everyone for the tips. Getting it cleaned up with lots of wire brushing, sanding, vacuuming and compressed air. Too bad they didn't protect this area with paint or something being water regularly ran through there when these cars were new. But, they wanted you to buy a new one after a few years so they didn't want them to last forever like we do. |
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