Posted 2020-02-23 9:25 PM (#594741) Subject: Thinking ahead: Removal and Installation of 56 Dodge Mirror bases
Location: Lower Mainland BC
I took a couple things to my local plater the other day and he noticed how pitted my 56 Dodge Fender Mirror bases are. I couldn't disagree. The left side is bad. The right side is bad but better than the left side. He gave me a price and I told him that I might be interested *IF* I could figure out how to remove them.
Just now I consulted some of the photos that I have collected and I can see a threaded stud near the top of the base and one near the edge of the fender, at the door. I also see something (a guide pin??) in about the middle.
I have now established that I can feel but not see the one at the top when the hood is open. I will call that one "1".
I can also touch and see the one at the lower end of the base, at the edge of the fender. I think that I could get that one off (after spraying and soaking with MOOVIT for a while). I will call that one "3"
So far I can not see or feel the one in the middle that I will call "2".
My questions are:
1. How do I get at the nut that is on "1"?
2. Is "2" real and is there a nut or something on it? IF so, how do I get at it?
Just thinking ahead to the next projects.
(AND NO, I am not removing the fender to get the mirror base off).
Posted 2020-02-23 11:24 PM (#594743 - in reply to #594741) Subject: RE: Thinking ahead: Removal and Installation of 56 Dodge Mirror bases
Both of the fender diecast trim strips were already off my car when I acquired it. The fenders had not been removed as far as I could tell, but it may be that taking out the bolts down the side of the fender on the A pillar, and the first two bolts along the fender from the door may allow enough movement to get a spanner on to it ? Just guessing now. Unable to offer better advice as to how difficult they are to get to as my fenders are now off the car and stripped for repair.
I can assure you No2 is just a guide pin, at least that is all they are on mine. No thread at all. just like an elongated rivet is how I would describe it.
Posted 2020-05-03 5:35 PM (#597716 - in reply to #595724) Subject: Investigation and removal of a 56 Dodge Fender Mirror Base
Location: Lower Mainland BC
After poking around and finding the location of the two nuts that hold the 56 Dodge fender mirror base to the fender, I finally bit the bullet today before lunch. (Earlier, before breakfast, I had sprayed the nuts (or in the general vicinity of the nuts with Moovit (using the long red straw to focus the spray).
First thing was to confirm the location of the the two nuts (and/or studs) that hold the mirror bases to the fender. I could see (barely) the lower one when the door was open. It was partially blocked by something black - metal or rubber. I could feel but not see the upper nut/stud when the hood was open and I reached up and under the top lip of the front fender. But I could not see it.
I got out my trusty extendo-mirror to investigate further (and confirm the locations) and take some photos for this post. Then I started at the rearmost nut. First thing was to test that black thing. Metal or rubber? Rubber - brittle rubber - broke away when probed hard.
Next was to select the correct size socket for my tiny 1/4" drive rachet. Turns out it was 3/8". With that socket and a short extension, I started on the rear most nut. I knew that there was possibility of breaking the stud if the nut was rusted to it too much but I had to try. After a bit of hesitation, something gave. To my surprise, it was the stud being wound out of the pot-metal mirror base. Fine much better than the alternative (broken stud).
With the first success, it was time to try the upper nut. It took a couple of tries to get the right combination of socket (3/8" again), extension and rachet to get the correct position to start cranking the nut off. Very awkward. Almost easier to close your eyes and imagine what was going on as I guided the socket onto the unseen nut. The nut didn't put up much resistance and to my surprise, the stud stayed and nut came off on its own.
No rust under the mirror base when I removed it from the fender. I could see the add-on panel that the factory had used to add the saddle colour to the otherwise Wedgewood blue fender. I could also see that the paint matching was pretty good. Not perfect but close.
I am going to clean the base up a bit and then re-install it for now. I will remove it later, when the weather warms up, and paint at least the darker (Royal Metallic) blue area and probably the light blue area that lives under the mirror base.
UPDATE: Re-installed the base after cleaning off various bits of paint (mine and/or others?) with Goof-OFF. One of the studs was rusty so I made a new one by using my Dremel and cutting disc to cut off the head of a 10-24 machine screw (3/4" long)(next time off, I will use stainless machine screws to make the stud(s)). I decided to use some 10-24 Nyloc nuts that I had. Found out that to get the nuts started on the studs, I had to load the nut into the 3/8" socket with some Dum-Dum putty to keep the nut in place and then put the socket on an extension and start the nut by "hand" (no rachet). The upper blind one was a bit b*tch but it only took a few seconds to get in going. Then I tightened the Nylocs with my tiny 1/4" drive rachet. Seems nice and tight. BUT they will come off again when it is warm enough for a little painting.
Posted 2020-06-14 5:12 AM (#599647 - in reply to #594741) Subject: RE: Thinking ahead: Removal and Installation of 56 Dodge Mirror bases
Has anyone tried to take these mirrors apart to service them. I have successfully removed the rear bullet shaped cap, and found a nut which presumably tensions the mirror for swivel. After removing that I was able to remove the mirror ball and glass, but behind that in the base is a huge mess of crumbling diecast. Having cleaned that out, I now find in trying to reassemble that the shaft for the mirror ball won't stay in place when you try to reassemble. So I am guessing the diecast crumble was originally some kind of lock ring for the shaft which has in part a square profile. I can't find any diagrams on the components of the working mirror .
If anyone can help , it would be much appreciated. A photo or diagram of one of these complete but disassembled if available would help my understanding.
Posted 2020-06-14 6:02 PM (#599663 - in reply to #594741) Subject: RE: Thinking ahead: Removal and Installation of 56 Dodge Mirror bases
Dave, That photo of the internals of the base answers my question. If you look at the photo of my base, the inside is hollow. Obviously all the diecast crumble that came out was the square lock piece. Do you know if it is integral to the diecast body, or a removable piece. I am thinking it is probably part of the casting, so I either need a replacement base, or need to fabricate something and glue it in place ?
Posted 2020-10-01 11:15 PM (#603864 - in reply to #597716) Subject: Installation of a new 56 Dodge mirror base
Location: Lower Mainland BC
Some time in August (July?) , I scored a NOS 56 Dodge Left fender mirror base on eBay. It took forever (5 weeks?) to come to Canada from the US under the Covid-19 conditions (normally I would have had it shipped to Point Roberts WA (30 minutes away) and it would have taken less than 5 days with USPS flat rate boxes.
Well, I finally had/made the time to install it today. It was actually a MOS mirror[delete base but it was perfect NOS so I bought it knowing that I could drill and tap things as needed (one 8-32 threaded hole for the mirror attachment lug and one 0.25" angled hole for the fixed locating pin on the base of the 56 Dodge mirror). I did that yesterday. Today was removal of the old pitted and scratched base and installation of the new base.
The first thing was to install new 10-24 studs in the new base. The NOS base came pre-tapped for 10-24 for two attachment studs (but no studs). So I chose to use 10-24 x 1" stainless steel machine screws which I threaded into the 10-24 blind holes in the base and then I used my Dremel with a cut-off blade to cut the head off the machine screws. The resulting stud length is almost too long and makes the initial location of base on the fender a bit of a stretch (literally) but the length helps later when you add the nuts (I used 10-24 Nyloc nuts).
After removing the old base (see above) and fitting the new base, I used my mini-1/4" rachet and two different lengths of extensions and a 3/8" socket to add the nuts. In all cases, the 3/8" socket was packed with "Dum-Dum" putty to hold the nut in the socket while the socket on the extension was manipulated into place and the nut started (by hand - by turning the extension). I used a 6 inch long 1/4" drive extension for the nut that is accessed through the engine bay by the hood hinge (when the hood is opened) and a 2" extension for the nut that goes on the stud that is accessed when the door is opened.
It wasn't easy and it required a lot patience and the odd bit of "colourful" language to get both nuts started. Once they were started, I used the mini-rachet to tighten the nuts (lots of turns because of the length of the studs that I made). I needed to pay attention where the base was landing on the fender and the fender cover, so there was a bit of toing and froing to get it right (enough). But it got done and I am pleased with results. Shining new pot metal base. Nice. (I did the right side yesterday with the OE right base that I had rechromed locally - the NOS base looks much better than my rechromed base but I got what I paid for in both cases).